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Thread: DIY 540i Power Steering Pump Replacement

  1. #1
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    DIY 540i Power Steering Pump Replacement

    Parts to order:

    • Power Steering Pump - 32411141570

    You can also take this opportunity to replace your reservoir since that's where the PS filter is.

    • PS Reservoir - 32411097164

    Update: A little bird told me that Jared (jnyhost), from CAE tuning, will be able to get you a decent price on these parts since it doesn't seem like the remanufactured pumps that I used are available anymore.

    Tools you will need:

    • 3 lb or heavier sledge hammer
    • 2lb or better floor jack
    • Jack stands
    • Wheel blocks
    • Wrench set with 13mm up to 32mm (look for a 32mm wrench with a nice long handle. They sell a set with one at Harbor freight for $20)
    • 13mm socket - Again, cheap socket sets to be had at harbor freight for $25
    • 15mm deep socket
    • Set of Torx Bits
    • Drain pan
    • 1 Liter of ATF - I use redline, but any plain Synthetic ATF will do. I wouldn't recommend using any ATF with leak stop additives. Additional bottles of ATF will be needed if you want to flush your system.
    • Lots of paper towels or shop rags
    • Rubber gloves
    • Some kind of good grease cleaner (I use Simple Green)
    • A flathead screwdriver
    • A pry tool for expansion plugs

    I apologize for the lack of pictures but this is actually a very simple DIY.

    I recommend removing your fan before putting your car up on jack stands.

    You can follow this DIY to remove your fan:

    http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

    I recommend not removing the cowl or other pieces that they remove in this DIY. With a 540, you can just follow the procedure detailed with the hammer and 32mm wrench. Note that you may have to hit the wrench really really hard; much harder than you will feel comfortable hitting.


    • Use your 13mm socket (with an extension) to loosen up the belt tensioner bolts. (detailed in the DIY linked above).
    • I prefer to do those steps before jacking up the car because it makes the fan and belt easier to access. Now jack up your car and put it on stands.
    • Remove the engine cover from the bottom of the car (also detailed in the DIY above)

    The power steering pump is located on the bottom right corner of the engine, when facing the front of the car. It is bolted to the engine by two 13mm bolts on the left side of it. It also has another 13mm nut on the back of the pump that holds it in place. But don't remove these first.
    • On the bottom of the pump is a drain plug which can be opened with an allen wrench . Unscrew the cap from the reservoir and then remove the drain plug from the pump. Make sure the drain pan is under the pump before doing this.
    • There are two metal pipes attached by bolts to the back and right side of the pump. The bolt for the pipe on the back is a 24mm bolt. Place your wrench on the bolt and (facing the front of the pump) hit the wrench with your sledge hammer clockwise a few times to break it loose. There are two metal washers on the bolt, make sure you dont lose them when you remove the bolt. Repeat the same procedure for the pipe on the side of the pump except you will need a 19mm wrench. put the wrench on the bolt and hit the wrench with your hammer a couple times. Again, this bolt has washers so don't lose them.
    • With both pipes removed, use your pry tool to gently remove the belt from the Power steering pump pulley. Tuck the belt up above the pump. Now use your socket wrench with an extension and 13mm socket to loosen the bolts holding the pump on the engine but do not completely remove them yet.
    • Next use a 13mm wrench and remove the nut anchoring the back of the alternator.
    • Remove the two bolts on the front of the PS pump and pull the pump forward off the engine.
    • If you did not get a new pulley, you will need to remove the existing one. It is held on by three 13mm bolts. I used my 13mm wrench and held tightly onto the pulley to prevent it from turning while I loosened the bolts.
    • Transfer the pulley to your new pump.
    • Transfer the anchor screw that the nut was attached to onto your new pump.
    • Remove any plastic plugs that were placed in the holes of your replacement pump.
    • Slide the new pump into position and hand tighten the two bolts on the front that attach it to the engine. Next, hand tighten the nut on the back of the engine. Once the position of the pump is acceptable, tighten down the two bolts and nut.
    • Reattach the smaller of the two metal pipes first. This is the pipe on the side of the pump. Make sure that you really tighten the bolt a lot as this is a pressurized line and you don't want leaks.
    • Reattach the larger pipe on the back of the pump. Again, make sure you tighten it well. Remember the bolt is screwed in the opposite direction since it is on the back of the pump. You will want to turn your wrench counter-clockwise to tighten.
    • Use your pry tool to put the belt back on the power steering pump pulley.
    • Put your engine cover back on, and lower the car.
    • Re-tension your belt using the 15mm socket and 13mm socket (You will need two socket wrenches or a socket wrench and breaker bar.
    • Reattach your fan.
    • If you are replacing your reservoir, use a 13mm wrench to remove the two bolts holding the Reservoir bracket onto the engine compartment wall.
    • Next, use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the two hose clamps attaching the hoses to the bottom of the reservoir.
    • Remove the hoses by wiggling them off.
    • Remove the old reservoir from the mounting bracket and install new one.
    • Reattach hoses and re-tighten clamps.
    • Remove all tools and foreign objects from engine compartment.
    • Fill the reservoir halfway and wait about 2 minutes. Some of the fluid will drain into the system.
    • Fill the reservoir up to the full line and close the cap on the reservoir tightly.
    • Start your engine and let it idle for 3 minutes. Shut off the engine. Do not turn the steering wheel during this step.
    • Fill your reservoir back up the the full line again. Start the engine. Run 3 minutes, shut off. Do not turn the steering wheel during this step.
    • Fill up the reservoir to full again. Start the engine. Turn the steering wheel 2 or 3 times in each direction as far as the wheel will turn. Shut off the engine and top off the reservoir (if needed).
    • You're done. Don't forget to recycle the oil from your PS system.


    I will add more pictures to these instructions as time permits.
    Last edited by TyroneShoe; 07-28-2008 at 12:39 PM.
    Possibly, maybe, conceivably, thinking about getting back into another E39. Hide your daughters

  2. #2
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    Nice DIY, I wonder will this apply on 97 528. The pics will make this perfect. Planning on working on mine some time..

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the write-up. I need to do something with mine, I've got a persistent leak and I can't tell is it's the reservoir, hoses, or pump. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace the whole system.

    Just curious, what were your car's symptoms leading to the new pump install? Did you also replace your hoses?

    *EDIT* After checking the price on the PS pump, I think I'll be doing the reservoir and hoses first

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Hunt around for cheaper pump parts. They do exist. When I bought mine, I got it from Pelican and at the time, they were selling a remanufactured one for $260 - $120 core charge ($140 after returning core). I don't know why they don't have that for sale anymore but maybe they'll get more in stock.

    <edit>According to JNYHOST, the remanufactured pumps aren't made anymore. Send him a PM and he should be able to hook you up with a decent price</edit>

    My symptom was simple, no power steering. Very difficult to turn wheel at low speeds (under 10MPH), particularly at the extremes of the turning range. I also had a lot of fluid leaking from the reservoir.

    Upon replacing the reservoir, I noticed that there was a crack on one of the nipples for the hoses. I think what probably happened is that dirt got introduced into the system and slowly killed the pump.

    When I removed the pump, I could tell that it was fried because the pulley spun VERY freely with little resistance. A pump like that should have some resistance b/c it needs to move fluid around, etc.
    Last edited by TyroneShoe; 07-10-2008 at 04:01 PM.
    Possibly, maybe, conceivably, thinking about getting back into another E39. Hide your daughters

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    1999 540 iT
    Very nice write up. If you dont get pics up soon, I might just have to go take some lol. I am replacing the alternator so I have alot of clear shots to the parts your talking about. But.....Im too lazy right now

  6. #6
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    Alternator DYI

    I think i need to replace my alternator and I am looking for a DYI. Advance auto tested the output and read just below where it should. The battery has gone dead a couple of times and I didn't think I left anything on. But the feature with the turn signal might have been left on and killed my battery. So whats next.

    Thanks

    KM

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by wizardstsi View Post
    Very nice write up. If you dont get pics up soon, I might just have to go take some lol. I am replacing the alternator so I have alot of clear shots to the parts your talking about. But.....Im too lazy right now
    Yeah, what I'll probably do is rip the appropriate pictures from other DIYs since I wasn't able to snap any pics while I was doing the work.
    Possibly, maybe, conceivably, thinking about getting back into another E39. Hide your daughters

  8. #8
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    Nice!!!!
    "If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti"

  9. #9
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    No rush with pics yet. Working with the MID issue and RR door actuator first.

  10. #10
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    I will be doing this next weekend...I got a remanufactured pump from RockAuto without any problems. Just a heads up.
    FOR SALE '00 540i 6-speed 101k mi - 260 RWHP & 311 RWTQ - OEM '00 M5 tails, OEM '03 M-tech rear bumper, Magnaflow, 6000k fogs, CDV delete, M5 rear swaybar, Akebono ceramic pads, Brembo rotors, AMSOIL, etc.

  11. #11
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    I'm retardedly busy with mid-terms at the moment but as soon as I get a breather, I'm going to add the bolt torque specs from Bentley to the DIY. I would highly recommend checking back on the DIY later this week when I add those specs in. I under-tightened a couple bolts when I did this and lost a pulley bolt. The damn pulley almost flew off the pump and I came very close to doing a lot of damage.

    FYI, Tightening specs on bolts are close (I'm working from memory) to but not exactly the following:

    Bolts on pulley (15nm)
    Bolts connecting pump to engine and alternator brace in the back (25nm)
    Bolts connecting power steering lines to pump (45nm for the big one, 42nm for the small one)
    Possibly, maybe, conceivably, thinking about getting back into another E39. Hide your daughters

  12. #12
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    Thanks. I'll keep an eye out for the updates!
    FOR SALE '00 540i 6-speed 101k mi - 260 RWHP & 311 RWTQ - OEM '00 M5 tails, OEM '03 M-tech rear bumper, Magnaflow, 6000k fogs, CDV delete, M5 rear swaybar, Akebono ceramic pads, Brembo rotors, AMSOIL, etc.

  13. #13
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    '00 540i 6-speed Sport /// '94 Z28 Camaro 'vert
    Any update on TQ specs???
    FOR SALE '00 540i 6-speed 101k mi - 260 RWHP & 311 RWTQ - OEM '00 M5 tails, OEM '03 M-tech rear bumper, Magnaflow, 6000k fogs, CDV delete, M5 rear swaybar, Akebono ceramic pads, Brembo rotors, AMSOIL, etc.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00BMW540i6 View Post
    Any update on TQ specs???
    Sorry, I just finished up with mid-terms last week. I'll try to remember to post them tonight.
    Possibly, maybe, conceivably, thinking about getting back into another E39. Hide your daughters

  15. #15
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    I just got a pump at Oreilly Autoparts for $130. Lifetime Warranty

    Doing this job later this week when I get my new Res. Already have the lines sitting here.
    Doug (BMWCCA HPDE Instructor, Respect My Authoritay!)

    1999 Titanium Silver M3 track Rat
    2017 F250 Powerstroke
    2004 M3 Widebody, LS

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by CABimmer View Post
    I just got a pump at Oreilly Autoparts for $130. Lifetime Warranty

    Doing this job later this week when I get my new Res. Already have the lines sitting here.
    I am going to reuse the lines, hopefully that works out OK. I have new hose clamps in tons of sizes to replace whatever the OEM setup is.

    Also, does anyone have any idea what size Torx bit I need?!
    Last edited by 00BMW540i6; 07-22-2008 at 10:54 AM.
    FOR SALE '00 540i 6-speed 101k mi - 260 RWHP & 311 RWTQ - OEM '00 M5 tails, OEM '03 M-tech rear bumper, Magnaflow, 6000k fogs, CDV delete, M5 rear swaybar, Akebono ceramic pads, Brembo rotors, AMSOIL, etc.

  17. #17
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    UPDATE:

    I did this repair over the weekend. It was a fairly easy job. I DID NOT have to take off the fan. I couldn't get it off, so I just worked around it and it wasn't that bad except for re-tightening the serpentine (which took some creative hands).

    A couple of things I wanted to point out: the 15mm bolt he lists in the OP is actually a 17mm bolt. Also, the "torx" bit he talks about for the drain plug on the pump is not a torx bit, it's actually just an allen (hex), for which you need an 8mm allen wrench to loosen.

    1.5 hours start to finish. It really was painless.
    FOR SALE '00 540i 6-speed 101k mi - 260 RWHP & 311 RWTQ - OEM '00 M5 tails, OEM '03 M-tech rear bumper, Magnaflow, 6000k fogs, CDV delete, M5 rear swaybar, Akebono ceramic pads, Brembo rotors, AMSOIL, etc.

  18. #18
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    Agreed, did mine on Friday. Orielly pump works great.
    Doug (BMWCCA HPDE Instructor, Respect My Authoritay!)

    1999 Titanium Silver M3 track Rat
    2017 F250 Powerstroke
    2004 M3 Widebody, LS

  19. #19
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    I used a rebuilt A1 Cardone from RockAuto and after some squealing breaking it in it seems to be OK. Time will tell. Had a full day of Autocross yesterday without any problems.
    FOR SALE '00 540i 6-speed 101k mi - 260 RWHP & 311 RWTQ - OEM '00 M5 tails, OEM '03 M-tech rear bumper, Magnaflow, 6000k fogs, CDV delete, M5 rear swaybar, Akebono ceramic pads, Brembo rotors, AMSOIL, etc.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00BMW540i6 View Post
    UPDATE:

    I did this repair over the weekend. It was a fairly easy job. I DID NOT have to take off the fan. I couldn't get it off, so I just worked around it and it wasn't that bad except for re-tightening the serpentine (which took some creative hands).

    A couple of things I wanted to point out: the 15mm bolt he lists in the OP is actually a 17mm bolt. Also, the "torx" bit he talks about for the drain plug on the pump is not a torx bit, it's actually just an allen (hex), for which you need an 8mm allen wrench to loosen.

    1.5 hours start to finish. It really was painless.
    My bad. I'll make the corrections in the original post
    Possibly, maybe, conceivably, thinking about getting back into another E39. Hide your daughters

  21. #21
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    Ok so i just replaced my power steering pump... when i started it sounded fine...i shut it off checked the fluid and it went down a little... refilled it...started it again and when i turned the wheel the engine started screaming... i shut it off... checked the fluid.. it was the same... started it...had a tiny whine.. turned the wheel and the loudest screaching ever... looked under the car and the 24mm bolt seems like it has a tiny leak.. maybe like 3 drops came from it... maybe i have the belt too tight? not sure what to do.

  22. #22
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    so i filled up my ATF fluid almost to the top!... finding out that thats a no no!!! it started gushing out of the resevoir cap do to expansion of the fluid. My question is, will this over filled atf cause the power steering pump, im guessing thats whats making the noise, to make a rubbing type of noise while turning the wheel left to right?? scared that i would need a new power steering pump!! please help!

  23. #23
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    Did you first remove the brake fluid?

    like I said in the other thread, flush the system a few times.


    also, use a turkey baster to remove the fluid from the reservoir.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattmartindrift View Post
    Did you first remove the brake fluid?

    like I said in the other thread, flush the system a few times.


    also, use a turkey baster to remove the fluid from the reservoir.
    yep i did that. and that turkey baster was a great idea. I drained the whole system though. Im hoping it wasnt too late to save it. Im going to re flush it a couple more times and fill it up to the correct level. will c what happens! Thanks though.

  25. #25
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    if you drained the whole system, it's probably just air bubbles making their way through. the best way to remedy this is to turn the steering wheel back and forth slowly - lock to lock. Do this with the front end jacked off the ground (and safely supported). Continue checking fluid levels and the air bubbles should work their way out.

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