E36 convertible top problem

[rav31]

Our '98 328ic is giving us a fit with the top. Can anyone help?
The top stopped on my wife last week part way down. I had her us the emergency drive motor release under the rear seat & get it put down. I rest the drive motors & reinitialized them per the TSI. I was able to put it back up & down & thought all was fixed. Only to have it get stuck again and now the rear boot drive motor will function but is making a loud clunking noise as if it's stuck & has some type of safety that allows the motor to release from the drive gear giving a clunk, clunk, clunk noise for about 10 sec. without boot cover moving. I now have the red light on the top switch flashing. Anyone got a clue to what to do to fix it?

[Christophe]

I have tried to reset the top.
Disconnected battery and reset.

Nothing I have done will stop it from clunking.

It resets pulling the cover down but seems like it has no idea that it is supposed to stop....keeps on trying to close tighten the cover.

Is there a switch here that stops the motor when it is in a tightly closed state?

If so what one? Or what have others done?

[Riick]

Suggest you check out the DYI videos, see if they help.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=718030

[ZUUD BYE]

yes check diy's, wifeys vert made that noise and I could not get the top drive motor to reseat after emegr pull- end cause was top motor drive failure- replacement motor fixed it right up. Hope your's is not that extreem.

[mnhornet]

Don't know about the clunk, but the flashing red light means the top is not locked down to the windshield.

[davester]

Sounds like it might be the Hall sensor (this is the gizmo that tells the motor to stop). I believe the sensor is built into the motor. However, I had a similar situation recently, with the top stopping half way down and then the motor jamming in the "trying to keep closing the lid after it's already closed" manner, even after resetting several times.

Part of the problem was a bent main drive rod for the top (one of the two big rods in the top storage bin). Check those to make sure they are not bent (the big one will bow upwards if it is bent).

The second part of the problem, and the one that relates more to yours, is that I could not get the @#$@! lid motor to synchronize, even following millertimebmw's video multiple times. I think it just got way too far out of whack. The solution was to NOT follow the video instructions but to follow the official BMW method. That is, when you sit in the driver's seat and press the button/turn on the ignition, you should press the "put top down" button, not the up button as recommended in the video. Then, the moment the lid starts to close, RELEASE THE BUTTON, don't keep holding it as mentioned in the video. This is the only way I could get it to synchronize.

If all else fails, you will need to take it to a mechanic who has the ability to read out the trouble codes to determine if the motor/hall sensor has a fault.

Good luck.

[wavetechpro]

Can't thank you enough for providing those correct instructions. I ran into a problem where my storage lid would not close all the way tight. This appeared to be due to a pinched metal cable which is connected to the storage latch on the driver side. The cable on the driver side was pinched inside the latch mechanism thus limiting the passenger side latch to not get tight enough and push down on the orange lock button, which appeared to jam everything up. I think when that little switch on the passenger latch is activated, the cables are pulled tight to lock down the lid.

So, my first problem was that I was using the "close top" button (the "forward position") button to reset the vert which was way wrong.

Now I'm back to normal, I just have to figure out how to pull in the slack on those storage lid lockdown cables, or replace one because of the crimp. Any input you have on that?

-Ryan Rafaloff-

[E36ic4Me]

A bent drive rod (for the boot cover) is often the culprit when a 'thunk' sound is heard. These rods are famous for bending over time. The are 100% DIY fixable though. Do a search on this and you will find a wealth of information on the subject!

[Mick300ZX]

Read this post

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1102199

[haines21]

I solved this issue with two steps. I did follow http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1102199 about bending the plate back in place because mine did seem to be bent. Two, I replaced the top storage gas lift struts. I believe the issue started with the bad lift struts causing the motor to over work and become bent. For now the issue is solved, but I have the feeling I will still need to replace the motor soon.

[jeroene31]

IMG_9709.jpgHad the same issue! I fixed the bend plate but now the linkage doesn't fit the pin anymore see picture.