The Ultimate Engine Oil Guide for E36 M3... First stop for any information/questions

[bmwpowere36m3]

I know, I know... you guys are saying not another OIL THREAD

Instead I'm trying to make a guide in oil selection and information at the basic level for the basic user. Obviously experience will show that at times these values will not work, like in HP driving situations, racing, etc... For the majority of users this will do just fine.

I'm including some info on engine oil specs and selection straight from BMW, actually BMW's Technical Information Systems (TIS). I would like this thread to be a first stop for new comers or users who have no clue about oils. A place to read up on some oil information before posting a "What Oil Should I Use" thread. I will be limiting the scope of this OIL THREAD to E36 M3's both S50 and S52 powered.

• 1995 M3 OBDI = S50
• 1996-1999 M3 OBDII = S52

By the time this is complied I'll try to get it to become a sticky

OIL TYPES

So here we go:



This table shows which "types" of oils are recommended based on engine. Both S50 and S52 engines fall under the category "Other", as can be seen highlighted in yellow.

So the recommended oil "types" are: Longlife-01, Longlife-98, Special Oil, and ACEA.

BMW originally was delivering M3's with mineral/conventional oil (DINO) and sometime in 1998-1999 they made the switch to synthetic oils and longer service intervals for their replacement. I believe this coincided with BMW's new service procedures, which included normal maintenance that they paid for. So in an effort to save money they extended the oil service interval and made the switch to synthetic to allow those longer service intervals.

So the progression of oils was(oldest to newest): ACEA, Special Oil, Longlife-98, and Longlife-01.

So which to choose? Well... lets start with what oil came from the factory in these cars.

• Early Production M3's (up to early '99): BMW 15W-40 (Mineral Based, DINO)
• Late Production M3's (last of '99): BMW Longlife (AKA Longlife-98) 5W-40 (Synthetic)

I would recommend synthetic oils, I'm not going to delve into the details of why because that's a whole topic on its own. They offer many advantages over mineral based oil with the only disadvantage of slightly higher prices.

OIL WEIGHT

So now that we know what "types" of oils are recommended, we can move on to the next important topic... Oil Weight. Oil weight or more precisely oil viscosity is the oil's "thickness" or resistance to flow.

Oil weight/grade/viscosity for multi-grade oils is given in this format:

xxW-yy

Like 5W-40 or 15W-40, were the xx is the "COLD" weight of the oil and yy is the "HOT" weight of the oil. The cold weight tells you the viscosity of the oil at 32ºF and the hot weight tells you the viscosity of the oil at 212ºF.

COLD Weight
Obviously if you choose an oil that's too "thick" or high-weight (like 20W, 30W, 40W) for your COLD weight, then the oil will have a tough time getting around the engine. That'll lead to two things, difficulty starting the engine and start-up wear on the engine since the oil can't get around quick enough to lubricate the engine properly. That's why for cooler climates and winters they recommend oils like: 5W-yy or 10W-yy.

HOT Weight
The same can be said for selecting too "thick" an oil for the HOT weight, since it wont be able to lubricate the engine as well and create excess friction. However picking too low of a weight oil would be even worse, since you wouldn't protect the engine... leading to major wear.

So here is what BMW says:



So here you can see what range of temperatures a given oil weight will operate well under. From this I would say:

• Moderate Climates w/ Winters: 5W-30 or 40
• Hotter Climates w/o Winters: 10 or 15W-40

So now that you have an idea of oil type and oil weight I will give all of BMW's recommended oils:

Longlife-01



Longlife-98







Special Oil







ACEA



Conclusions

Some people make it out or think that you need some special unobtainum oil for these "super sports car engines". When in fact there is nothing particularly special at all, as long as you stick with the factory recommendations you'll be fine (under normal operating conditions).

Your first stop for oil selection should be your manual, it specifically lists oil type and weights... even has the oil grade chart as well. If you would like to stray away from those numbers, look at the info presented and make a educated selection.

Basically any quality brand oil, with grades ranging from 0-15W-30-40 will work and not ruin our engine. Out of those, local conditions and driving style will dictate specifics of those oils.

Most important I would say, no matter what oil you choose is change it often. My personal recommendation is: for mineral oils - every ~3K miles and synthetic every ~6K minimum (with an oil filter change @ 3K). These recommendations are conservative, but oil is "cheap" compared to the cost of an engine. If you want to be more "scientific" you can send your used oil to be tested, like Blackstone Labs, and they'll let you know if running the oil for longer service intervals is fine.



That's pretty much all I got... I know there is more, but I'm trying to keep this semi-basic. I would appreciate any C&C and feedback as to what you'd like to see more off if anything.

Otherwise I leave it at that and if you have any questions, post away... of course try to keep in in this thread for any "general" questions. Like I said will let this thread pan out a little and see, if positive I'll try and get it sticked by itself so it's easy to find.

[e36werkes]

Very informational, thanks for taking the time to post this!

[azdakarm3]

Thanks for taking the time to post that! What would you say about those, including myself running Mobile 1, 15w-50? It seems a lot of people seem to go with that for all types of conditions. But as you said as long as you change it often, you're fine.

[98DakarM3]

That is a GREAT read.. very very educational. I will hope that most of the guys on their high horses about 15w-50 will read through that. Especially the guy that told me he would never ever buy a BMW M that had an oil that used less then 15w-YY.

I have spent a great deal of time on BITOG.com lately and learned a lot about oils. It has lots of similar information to this. PM if anyone wants additional info or oil recommendations!!

[eurocarturboit]

good write up

[bmwpowere36m3]

Thanks for taking the time to post that! What would you say about those, including myself running Mobile 1, 15w-50? It seems a lot of people seem to go with that for all types of conditions. But as you said as long as you change it often, you're fine.

Let me flip this... YOU tell me why your running 15W-50. I mean I have an idea, I just want to hear you reasoning other than, "I heard it on the internet". Not knocking on you, I'm just curious...

[pbonsalb]

I use 15W50 Mobil 1 at present in my supercharged 99M3 with 7000 rpm redline. Sometimes I used 5W50 or 20W50 instead during spring, summer or fall -- depending on what synthetics are reasonably priced. In winter (NH), I usually run 5W40.

I have so many things on my car that BMW did not recommend -- headers, track pipe, performance rear exhaust, Shrick cams, Vortech supercharger, LTW flywheel, etc., that I am not so worried about strict adherence to its oil recommendations. I see no problem with using Mobil 1 15W50 in warmer weather. I have been a member of BITOG for a couple of years.

[bmwpowere36m3]

I use 15W50 Mobil 1 at present in my supercharged 99M3 with 7000 rpm redline. Sometimes I used 5W50 or 20W50 instead during spring, summer or fall -- depending on what synthetics are reasonably priced. In winter (NH), I usually run 5W40.

I have so many things on my car that BMW did not recommend -- headers, track pipe, performance rear exhaust, Shrick cams, Vortech supercharger, LTW flywheel, etc., that I am not so worried about strict adherence to its oil recommendations. I see no problem with using Mobil 1 15W50 in warmer weather. I have been a member of BITOG for a couple of years.

I completely agree and if you see the beginning of the thread I say that these are general guidelines and will apply to the majority of users... however experience will show that at times different oils are required. Obviously when they made these guidelines they were under the impression of a "stock" vehicle under normal DD.

I also want to note that the information present is for the novice user, as experienced users know what to look for and I didn't go into depth on subject in evaluated oils including oil temps, driving manners, oil consump, etc...

I just wanted a place to get some introductory info, instead of just posting, "Which Oil Should I Use". More advanced topics can just be posted in the forum like, "I have x, y, z mods and I currently track my car and I've noticed oil temps at 280ºF. The car operates under 60-100ºF outside temperatures and I change my oil every track weekend... whatever".

[typeS4]

Great post! Good information. I find it funny when people like to argue that our cars needs some fancy oil.

[svart]

I switched to using 0w-40 Mobil1 some time ago.. all the lifter knocking and rattling went away too.. Never had a leak, never burn oil either. It's been a couple of years now too.

[Xiphos]

No royal purple on the list

[ultimate99m3]

where is lucas oil i use the lucas synthetic high performance motor oil

[bmwpowere36m3]

where is lucas oil i use the lucas synthetic high performance motor oil

It's not on the list since it isn't an approved oil... does it mean it no good? Of course not. I would just make sure it complies with BMW's oil standards, which most do. I personally run Pentosin Pentosynth 5W-40 all-year round, including track days and auto-x. Prior to that I ran Lubro Moly Voll-Synthese 5W-40 another great oil.

[bdifc]

Let me flip this... YOU tell me why your running 15W-50. I mean I have an idea, I just want to hear you reasoning other than, "I heard it on the internet". Not knocking on you, I'm just curious...

I run 15W-50 because it's the minimum weight to maintain the minimum oil pressure at idle. Sure, I might have worn rod bearings, but it solved my problem.

[m2pc]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I'm experiencing:
a) oil pressure light periodically coming on at idle, especially after hard driving and/or when it's hot outside, and b) Vanos mechanical jam codes.

Could these be because I'm running 30W synthetic oil? Should I switch to 50W?

EDIT: I just noticed this is an M3 thread, but maybe it still applies to the M52 engines? Thx.

[bmwpowere36m3]

One, your VANOS is probably worn-out, typical on M5x & S5x engines. Normally they start making a "marbles in a can rattle" and it's pretty annoying, if really worn it can get jammed. Low oil pressure at idle, I'd check to make sure the sender is good (~8 bucks), then I actually measure it with a gauge, then I'd start by replacing the oil with xW-30 or xW-40 oil, and if still low then its probably a worn oil pump or main/rod bearings.

[joe91985]

Hate to go off topic but it seems like this is already there....
I run mobil 1 extended performance 15w-50, a friend that I trust alot recommended it to me. I see that a post on here talks about rod bearings wearing out? Is that due to the oil? Cant imagine so but my car has seemed to be a little louder lately, oil level fine, changed oil every 5k for past 2 years since I have owned vehicle. Does it make sense to switch oil grade? I do alot of regular driving, I have never tracked the car except taking to the drag strip a few times last summer for fun, but only did 2 passes each time I went. I guess the main question here is the 15w-50 the wrong oil to run in the car for daily driving on some highway and mostly city and moderate speed driving?

[m2pc]

One, your VANOS is probably worn-out, typical on M5x & S5x engines. Normally they start making a "marbles in a can rattle" and it's pretty annoying, if really worn it can get jammed. Low oil pressure at idle, I'd check to make sure the sender is good (~8 bucks), then I actually measure it with a gauge, then I'd start by replacing the oil with xW-30 or xW-40 oil, and if still low then its probably a worn oil pump or main/rod bearings.

I actually just replaced the Vanos with a low-mileage unit at the advice of my trusted BMW mechanic. The engine is quieter but we're still scratching our heads over the mechanical jam codes it keeps throwing. I got the same code on the original Vanos and now it's back with the new one. Whatever the case, I need to get this cleared up before a year from now when the biannual smog check is due -- CEL = automatic fail, even if the Vanos is causing it.

I really hope my engine isn't starving for oil and ruining the bearings -- I spent over $1,000 fixing the car after the HG blew about a year ago.

My ultimate goal is swapping in an S52 engine. I have a friend who owns a body shop and can get me a low-mileage S52 for around $2,500 used. I just hate to have to do this sooner (not that the engine will be a bad thing!) rather than years from now when I can really afford to do it.

Thanks for the insights!

[bmwpowere36m3]

Hate to go off topic but it seems like this is already there....
I run mobil 1 extended performance 15w-50, a friend that I trust alot recommended it to me. I see that a post on here talks about rod bearings wearing out? Is that due to the oil? Cant imagine so but my car has seemed to be a little louder lately, oil level fine, changed oil every 5k for past 2 years since I have owned vehicle. Does it make sense to switch oil grade? I do alot of regular driving, I have never tracked the car except taking to the drag strip a few times last summer for fun, but only did 2 passes each time I went. I guess the main question here is the 15w-50 the wrong oil to run in the car for daily driving on some highway and mostly city and moderate speed driving?

I'd say that living in a moderate climate like MD, and using the vehicle as a DD only, that 15W-50 is the wrong choice in oils. Unless your seeing high oil temps, track the car, or are FI in some form... stick with something like 5 or 10W-40 type oil. Will running 15W-50 harm the engine, probably not noticabley. However that oil is fairly thick @ cold temperature and that's when engines see most wear, on start up.

It could be louder due to worn hydraulic lifters or VANOS unit.

[bmwpowere36m3]

I actually just replaced the Vanos with a low-mileage unit at the advice of my trusted BMW mechanic. The engine is quieter but we're still scratching our heads over the mechanical jam codes it keeps throwing. I got the same code on the original Vanos and now it's back with the new one. Whatever the case, I need to get this cleared up before a year from now when the biannual smog check is due -- CEL = automatic fail, even if the Vanos is causing it.

I really hope my engine isn't starving for oil and ruining the bearings -- I spent over $1,000 fixing the car after the HG blew about a year ago.

My ultimate goal is swapping in an S52 engine. I have a friend who owns a body shop and can get me a low-mileage S52 for around $2,500 used. I just hate to have to do this sooner (not that the engine will be a bad thing!) rather than years from now when I can really afford to do it.

Thanks for the insights!

Used or even NEW VANOS units are a hit or miss item. I’ve heard guys buy 3 NEW VANOS units from the dealer, exchanging them each time because they still were noisy. Because the truth is that they are not new but REBUILT units and BMW's tolerances on the units is fairly high. This "looseness" causes the noise in the helical gear.

The best fix for VANOS is to buy one from: drvanos.com

[GUINNESS]

Great post.... thanks for posting all that info.

[Eddie916]

If the Mobil1 5w-40 one is the high mileage formula, does that make any difference?
I've heard it robs a little bit of power.

I wish the M1 0w-40 came in the 5qt jugs, because the Castrol 10w-40 I was trying out burned quickly...

[themadrussian]

Motul Specific LL-01 5w30 for the win. I've had zero problems since I changed my oil about 500 miles ago.

[benjlv]

just moved from mobile one 15w50 extended life to regular mobile one full syn 10w30 as its cooling off this october here in mi. The car is much happier at cold starts. I will never run such a thick oil again. Thinking about it more i wish i had gone with a 5w30 for this winter instead. I am also wondering if 10w30 will be fine for the summer since it seems that oils have become a lot better since the owners manual for the car was written 11 years ago. Of course there is a overall lack of information from companies to make this type of judgment call. The article on 0w30 in the article section seems to be a decent start though.

106k on a 97 s52

[Tim95M3]

I run the motul X-cess 5w40 and its great