Vert tension strap fix for under $10 (long-ish)

[ronva]

Short summary. I picked up a beautiful '98 328 Vert last Dec for my wife. Great car, just a few typical e36 nits to work on, but a well-maintained and all original car. However, the original top was suffering from the weak tension strap issues—didn’t always retract fully to clear the top lid.
I replaced the lid gas struts, oiled all the frame pieces/parts, and made a few minor adjustments to the linkages and motor, and it was MUCH better. However, it still wasn’t working consistently and would sometimes hang or make contact with the lid. I took the car to the dealer for advice (new top $900+), a few convert/upholstery shops who recommended I wait until the top needed replacement, but were willing to do the tension straps ($450-500). Since the top is still in great shape, and was operating much better, I decided to look at the bungee cord fix several have tried. Couldn’t find much in the way of what they actually used, and I wasn’t crazy about the idea of bungee and metal hooks under the canvas.
Found the solution at Lowe’s home improvement. They sell a product called VelStretch, found in the aisle near all the other Velcro fasteners. Velstretch consists of two 27” elastic straps with a small black nylon buckle with velcro, about $7.95. They look a LOT like the original tension straps. They’re marketed as a camping gear/sleeping bag fastener, but it was obviously designed for the e36 Vert ;o)
Installation will take about 5-10 minutes per side. Partially lower the top. Reach in and loop one end of the Velstretch strap over the #4 bow (bow that sits above the rear plastic window) just inside the corner, very close to the existing tension strap. Hold the buckle end and stretch the strap over the #3 bow (bow that sits just above the side window break) and fasten the two ends using the buckle and velcro. I tried to take a few pics but they didn’t work out since everything is dark and under the canvas. The 27” loop seems to be perfect for providing the right amount of tension between these bows to keep the top folding as it should.
It’s been nearly 3 months of trouble free operation. Of course the naysayers will point out it’s Winter, and the top hasn’t been down much, or the sun hasn’t baked the straps, but for $7.95, I’m willing to do this fix every 6-12 months if needed.
Hope this helps another Vert owner out there—happy motorin’! Ron

[Brashland]

This is your first post?!?

Well, welcome to the site stranger, and for posting something useful. Too bad about the pictures as I'd like to see this.




/splunge

[dot1]

I may try that! I used ty wraps but they came off after 3 or 4 uses.

[ronva]

Originally Posted by Brashland

This is your first post?!?

Well, welcome to the site stranger, and for posting something useful. Too bad about the pictures as I'd like to see this.




/splunge

Yes, new to this board, but not new to bimmers. My previous rides were an 81 320i (wrecked by a little old lady), 87 325is (sold, 4th or 5th owner still going i think), 89 525 (sold to a coworker's son, now has over 250K) and my current 99 528 sport.

The e36 is our first vert so this site is required reading. First actual post as an e36 owner, although i've been lurking for months getting up to speed on the vert quirks and fixes--great advice here, thanks. Just wanted to return the favor.

Pics would help, but it's pretty obvious once you poke around in there with a flashlight. Just follow the routing of the existing tension straps.

[aquariangirl]

wow! great information, thanks!

[MParallel]

Great post!! I always wanted to do something like this. No round bungee cords, but flat eleastic pieces.

Bow 3 and 4 huh? What about bow 5, which always is the culprit bow that doesn't fold back enough to give room to bow 6 (the final bow that lies on the rooflid when the roof is up).

[davester]

Methinks there is a mixup between our newcomer's bow numbers and the more established bow numbers of goestoeleven...

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=764739

[ronva]

MParallel and davester,
I used a few diff sources for the diagrams, one had a total of 5 bows, the other had 6. I remember an old exploded view i found somewhere that didn't have a number for bow #4, it was instead called a cross brace, tension bar, or something. As the vert noob, i will of course adopt the established bow numbering--I'm no rebel :o)

Looking at your pic, I am referring to bows #3 and #5. Whatever their numbers, i connected the strap between the bow at the top of the rear window and the bow that sits at the break between front and rear side glass, skipping the one between them (#4?) Just bringing these up with more tension allows the last bow (#6) to follow.

[mr rolleyes]

aww geez, ill look into this on mine and mess around with it.

i want to post a picture of where my issue is occurring, and see if you can tell me what "bows" to tighten

[MParallel]

Rova,

No problem. Maybe th solutions isn't strict either. Maybe connecting bow "a" and "b" has the result as "a" to "c".

Anyways, as long as it's hardtop weather I'll be doing other money-eating projects.

And I thought my car was ready!

[miatawnt2b]

great job! Thanks for posting.
-J

[98point6ny]

I just ordered 2X pairs from Lowe's online @ $4.97 per pair for anyone interested in keeping a set of these on hand. Thank you very much for the tip.

Tension straps were a concern as I understood it was a common and expensive problem to have fixed by the dealer.

98

[305bimmer]

all you need is bungee cords...ill take pictures how i did it...WOKS LIKE A DREAM....

my buddy just bought oem tension straps and install for 300 bucns...i was shocked and yelled at him.

[hardcrab]

I just bought a '99. The previous owner had taken the car to a dealer last fall to have the top "fixed" in preperation to sell, as it was hanging up when retracting. She gave me the reciept/warranty to go with the car in case it has problems while under warranty (2 years)- the only thing they did was replace the tension straps- they charged her $1200!!!!!!! I hope she doesnt read this!!

thanks for the info- I'll print it off and put in in my file... which is getting quite large.

[ronva]

305bimmer--no doubt the bungee cord fix is the same, but these little beauties look and act like the factory tension strap material. Very easy to install, no metal hooks to risk rust or rip-thru, and no knots or unravelling to worry about.

hardcrab-Congrats on the "new" 99 vert. I looked for a long time before finding the '98. Your file shouldn't get too thick, the later verts are pretty reliable. This board is great, and has already saved me a few hundred bucks in troubleshooting/repair bills. The dealer who charged $1200 for tension straps will surely burn in hell. My dealer quoted me less for a completely new top!

[BimmerM3inGA]

I just bought a '99 323i (12/98 build) and I noticed right away that the top was jamming on the storage lid cover. I found this thread pretty much by accident while researching the problem. I was ready to spend $200 on a set of new tensioning straps, but figured, what the hell, I'll try it. My neighborhood Lowe's had the Velstretch straps for $4.97. It took less than 10 minutes to install them and the problem is totally solved!

As my contribution to this discussion, I took some photos to help describe the problem and the fix.


This is the stuff to buy. It's just long enough to stretch between the bows.


Just to be clear, this is problem I was trying to fix. The front edge of the storage bin lid hits the rear edge of the roof during lowering and gets stuck. The problem is caused by weak OEM tensioning straps.


How the Velstretch strap looks when installed. You really have to pull it tight to fasten it at the end.


Here is where the strap loops around the #5 bow. It probably doesn't matter where you put the buckle, but it's least noticeable here and easy to reach when sitting in the back seat.


Here I tucked the buckle behind the #5 bow to hide it even more.


Mission accomplished! The top now clears the lid with room to spare. I could tell that it was going to work even before it got to this point because it was obvious that the rear edge of the top was going higher than it had been.

This thread saved me at least $200 and a whole days work. Awesome job,
ronva!

[ZUUD BYE]

I'm going to Lowes tomorrow!!

[mreloc]

Hey BimmerM3, any reason you ran the Velstretch under bow 4 instead of over it? (I'm kinda jealous you don't have a headliner!)

[hardcrab]

Great write-up. A picture is always worth a thousand words. Another few pages printed off to add to the file!! Thanks guys--

[BimmerM3inGA]

Originally Posted by MRELOC

Hey BimmerM3, any reason you ran the Velstretch under bow 4 instead of over it? (I'm kinda jealous you don't have a headliner!)

Not really. It was just easier. You have to really pull on the straps to make them reach and I didn't want to invest too much effort until I knew if it would work. I may go back and run it on top of the bow if the mood strikes me.

I can thank the previous owner for the headliner removal. And I do have it, it's in the trunk - where it will probably remain.

[ecooney]

Would anyone be willing to ship a packet of these straps to Ireland? I have had a look and cannot seem to get anyone that is selling them to ship overseas.

[BimmerM3inGA]

Originally Posted by ECOONEY

Would anyone be willing to ship a packet of these straps to Ireland?

I happen to own a shipping store and can probably do that for you. PM me your address and I'll get a price for you.

[sacd]

Hey guys, i've been reading this thread and I would love some of these straps.
BimmerM3inGA, if you have a paypal account I would be really greatful if you could post some 'straps' to good old blighty.

[digitalsolo]

I picked up some of these and installed them today. My top was just kissing the decklid cover when it opened (no damage to it yet). I installed this setup just as discussed (a bit of a PITA when you have a top/headliner) and it resolved the problem immediately.

This forum comes through yet again...

[first time]

I'm a little dense. A couple questions: How do the velcro straps provide lift to the 5th bow to move it out of the way of the lid? Are they slightly elastic and retract the 5th bow enough get it moving and provide tension on the decline? If I attach the velcro as the top is slightly compressed, does the mechanical action of the top being put up just over come the velcro tension? Or should I just shut up and do it?