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Thread: How to: Properly Clay your Car

  1. #1
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    How to: Properly Clay your Car

    LEGAL DISCLAIMER:

    I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL DETAILER, NOR DO I CONSIDER MYSELF ONE. I AM SOLELY A DETAILING HOBBYIST WHO IS CONSTANTLY PURSUING THE PERFECT SHINE. I IN NO WAY CAN OR WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE (MONETARILY OR OTHERWISE) FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU POTENTIALLY CAUSE TO YOUR CAR BY TAKING THE ADVICE GIVEN BY MYSELF IN THIS THREAD. IF YOU USE MY SUGGESTIONS YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!

    Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic "How To" articles. The third installment pertains to claying our cars.

    Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.

    My clay of choice is the one made by 3M. They give you a very generous amount. Cut the bar in half. Take the half and cut it into 15 equal pieces:

    2 for the hood
    2 for the roof
    1 for the trunk lid
    1 for the trunk rear and rear bumper
    2 for the rear quarter panels (1 per side)
    4 for the doors (1 per door)(if you have a sedan)
    2 for the front fenders (1 per side)
    1 for the front of the car

    Take the piece and roll it in to a sphere. Take the sphere and flatten it out into a circle so that it covers the top third of your first two fingers. Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer. Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure. Work in 2x2 areas. If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD. While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing. Once half the section is done, flip the clay over and do the other half of the section. Once the section has been completed throw the piece of clay away. It is too contaminated to use on another section. If you do use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.

    Keep working your way down using each dedicated piece for its area. Flip the clay over when you have completed half a section. Throw the clay away when the section is done.

    When complete your car should be as smooth as glass. The next steps should be to remove the swirls (if necessary), clean the paint, and seal in the rejuvenated finish with a wax or sealant.
    Last edited by David; 10-20-2003 at 08:21 PM.

  2. #2
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    Do you happen to know what the "quick detailer" consists of? I've heard of guys using a dishsoap/water mixture, but that doesn't sound right.
    3rd Infantry Division, United States Army

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  3. #3
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    Originally posted by RacermeX
    Do you happen to know what the "quick detailer" consists of? I've heard of guys using a dishsoap/water mixture, but that doesn't sound right.
    many clay bar sets come with a lube, typically a "QD". I've found this to work the best and provide the best lube for the clay to slide properly. I've heard of some guys using a mixture of car wash soap and water, yes.... If I were you, doing it for the first time, go with a QD spray. Check out the "clay magic" kit, I've had good results with this. It's available at most auto parts stores, and it comes with a generous bottle of QD and a good sized piece of clay.
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="2">2003 Alpine White M3...</font></b>
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="1"></font></b><br />
    The infamous "Paul E." and I after some detailing...

  4. #4
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    Originally posted by RacermeX
    Do you happen to know what the "quick detailer" consists of? I've heard of guys using a dishsoap/water mixture, but that doesn't sound right.
    Usually, it's not a dishsoap, but rather a carwash soap/water mixture. Alot cheaper than even the cheap $5 bottle of quick detailer. Basically, you just need something that's slippery enough to function as a lube for the clay.

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    Chris and Hal covered it perfectly!

  6. #6
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    One thing that many people foolishly do...
    If you drop the clay, like everyone does.....don't rinse it off. Throw it away. Great post.....Yes, you can just use a little soap.
    If You Have EVER Voted, I'll Listen To Your Opinion......me,2004

  7. #7
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    I have noticed that after claying (2x) and washing, I do the clean plastic bag test (sandwhich bag) and still feel some grits on the paint. Are these grits not removable? If you simply feel the paint by hand, it is indeed as smooth as glass. Does it not defeat the above test?

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    Marzen,

    I've personally never used the plastic bag test. I usually doa before and after with my bare hand. As long as their is a difference in smootheness, then I am happy. Using a plastic bag will only make your fingers more sensitive to the bumps in the paint. If you're anal about your car like I am then it will probably be enough to drive you crazy. My advice, don't do the baggy test.

  9. #9
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    agreed, bag is unnecessary! You'll feel improvement with your bare fingers, before and after!
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="2">2003 Alpine White M3...</font></b>
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="1"></font></b><br />
    The infamous "Paul E." and I after some detailing...

  10. #10
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    There should be a sticky for this (or put the whole David series into one sticky post)

    Nice write-up!

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    Thanks Hornswoggler! I appreciate the kind words!

  12. #12
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    LOL. Yeah, this plastic bag test is driving me crazy alright. I enjoy feeling my paint as smooth as glass. Great thread!

  13. #13
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    sounds great...though it seems as if it would take forever. i might try it one day.

    I'll bump this for ya david
    Toledo E53 X5 | LeMans E90 335d

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    Thanks Gary.

    It actually takes me about 2 hour to clay my car, including the windows.

  15. #15
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    two hours...jeez I am too lazy to do any work... nice writeup...
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  16. #16
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    Great Write-up David, I made sure to add it to my favorites. I've been meaning to try claying my car for the longest time but never got around to it. I can feel how bad the paint is especially on my trunk and roof. I'm definetelygoing to set aside a day to try this once the weather turns nicer again around here. I have one question though, what does claying your windows do?

  17. #17
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    Ryan,

    Thanks for the kind words.

    Claying the windows is really only for your own personal satisfaction. My philosophy is, if I'm gonna clay the paint, I mind as well take an extra 10 mins and do the windows as well. I want my whole car to be nice and smooth.

    Also, claying the windshield will help your wipers glide better when in use. So it does have one practical advantage.

  18. #18
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    i clay the headlight covers too makes the plastic there nice and clear

  19. #19
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    what can I use to get the swirls out?

  20. #20
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    Originally posted by Luke WL.
    what can I use to get the swirls out?
    everything you need to know can be found here...

    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...hreadid=113674
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="2">2003 Alpine White M3...</font></b>
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="1"></font></b><br />
    The infamous "Paul E." and I after some detailing...

  21. #21
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    what is the purpose of the clay?

    is it to remove the bumps that you feel when you run your hand over the panels?
    1995 BMW 320is (Stock)
    1996 BMW 318is (Stock)
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    Sydney Australia

    Can we do a rolling 1/4 mile ?


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    bassit,

    to answer your question, yes.

  23. #23
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    Thanks for the write-up. I tried to clay a while ago and seriously screwed it up. It just didn't seem like it was doing any so I ended up pressing too hard and streaking some clay onto my car. Thanks to your write-up I'll try again.

  24. #24
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    ash,

    glad to help out any way I can. Let us know how it goes when you clay again.

  25. #25
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    is claying the same as compounding? sorry if question has become redundant.

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