Fully Functional Greddy Emanage Ultimate on OBDII m52

[dmb882]

Alright so here it is, the new and updated emanage ultimate thread.
(This is a work in progress, but I've had more people asking for this so just keep in mind I will be adding to this in the next few days)

I'll start off with saying that I know for sure that this works on a 1998 323is. Others will have to confirm this to work on the 328 and m3. (Although I feel like you would have no problems)

The jumper wires inside the piggyback should all be set to the factory settings. Most importantly make sure that you are on "pull down" and "5volt" out. Also when wiring the injection and ignition the channels must correspond to the firing order of your car. For straight six's the firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4.
So - Channel 1 - Cylinder 1
Channel 2 - Cylinder 5
Channel 3 - Cylinder 3
Channel 4 - Cylinder 6
Channel 5 - Cylinder 2
Channel 4 - Cylinder 4

Those apply to the igntion and the injection.

I bought my emanage used so I did not have the computer style plug that comes with it, I made all my own connections using plugs that I bought from radioshack. I made 3 sets of plugs. One was for power, ground, and the spliced in inputs that were only tapped into for monitering. These include rpm, knock sensors (these are not moniterable yet but will be with future updates of the emanage software), throttle position, ect. The other two plugs were 12pin plugs. Six pins were for the injectors the other six for the ignition. One plug was ecu out/emanage in, the other emanage out. I used wire nuts for the mass air meter but I will probably go back and put these on the power/spliced plug since I won't controlling the maf voltage, just monitering it.

Ok everyone (involved in the other thread) knows that you cannot intercept the ignition signal directly from inside the ECU because of the high current. So you have to open you ECU and cut the transitor legs (also know as keys). You then solder a wire off of the board to the emanage input. Then from the emanage output onto the transitor leg. In my ECU the keys were in order starting with cylinder 1 to cylinder 6 from the factory plug back.

So basically you intercept the signal from the computer before it is sent out to the coils. This signal goes to the emanage were you can modify it then sends it back to the transitor which is really just a switch that fires the coils when it sees the ecu signal (now the emanage signal)

Now the key component to make the emanage run on an OBDII BMW. You wire the injection just like the directions say. ECU output wires to emanage input; Emanage output to injectors. So you start your car and it runs about 10-20 secounds then shuts down injectors? WTF?

I made a box that contains 6 resistors. The box has 7 wires coming out of it. One wire is for 12volts. The other 6 go to each injector wire inbetween the emanage input and ecu output. Order doesnt matter as all of these wires are the same thing. I used 1watt 1000ohm resistors I believe. I'll make sure. Anyway this provides the ecu with the proper voltage which is being applied through the resistors and cause it to think everything is OK and you will not have any injector problems anymore.

You can make your own ciruit/box or I will make one for you for $30. PArts cost about 10bucks but it takes about an hour to make and you will need solder, a soldering iron, and patience. If you made it this far you should be qualified enough to make this part.

I'll update this thread with pics tomorrow that will help better explain everything.

A big thanks goes out to everyone involved. This was a group effort and another tuning option is now available!!

[highboostingm3]

Adding to Tried and Tested thread! Sick info!

[Goofynick6]

The resisitor box is probably needed for OBDI though, because I was having an injector fault code when I was running it, although it ran fine, I sold mine because I had bad coilpacks and they started going bad at the same time I wired in the emanage (bad luck!).

Nick

[325icintn]

The resisitor box is probably needed for OBDI though, because I was having an injector fault code when I was running it, although it ran fine, I sold mine because I had bad coilpacks and they started going bad at the same time I wired in the emanage (bad luck!).

Nick

Did you end up going with a chip tune?
If you ever want to make some changes, you're going to be able to chip tune it yourself.

[5mall5nail5]

Actually I have noticed that if you take the fuel injectors away from the OBDI computer, it runs like Goofy said but the stock ecu does some weird stuff to the idle control valve and spark. So since youre sending the E-Manage your spark signal, which the stock ecu is retarding, you have to tune against that. If you add the resistors that the original poster used you will have problems. You need at least 15 - 25w 16 ohm resistors which are housed in an aluminum heatsink. You can run 1/2w, 5w, 10w, but they'll eventually saturate with heat and with heat comes variance and you will soon be back to square one.

Note to the original poster, if you disagree with me on this you can visit any one of the car tuning forums out here - when you want to trick the ecu into thinking an injector is there you need to at least match the resistance (ohm) which you did but you need to be able to compensate for duty load, which you are going to have problems with using only 1/2w. If you check them out I bet they are a dark shade of brown.

[dmb882]

Actually I have noticed that if you take the fuel injectors away from the OBDI computer, it runs like Goofy said but the stock ecu does some weird stuff to the idle control valve and spark. So since youre sending the E-Manage your spark signal, which the stock ecu is retarding, you have to tune against that. If you add the resistors that the original poster used you will have problems. You need at least 15 - 25w 16 ohm resistors which are housed in an aluminum heatsink. You can run 1/2w, 5w, 10w, but they'll eventually saturate with heat and with heat comes variance and you will soon be back to square one.

Note to the original poster, if you disagree with me on this you can visit any one of the car tuning forums out here - when you want to trick the ecu into thinking an injector is there you need to at least match the resistance (ohm) which you did but you need to be able to compensate for duty load, which you are going to have problems with using only 1/2w. If you check them out I bet they are a dark shade of brown.

I will check them out but you could run a 1000ohm 1/2w resistor with constant voltage through it all day long. They do not heat because of the high resistance. This goes back to electrical forumals. Theres no need to simulate the resistence. It isn't a resistance issue.

[dmb882]

Current=voltage/resistance
Current = 12V/1000ohms = .012amps

Current = 12V/16ohms = .75amps

amps^2*ohms=power(watts)

my ciruit .144watts

your circuit 9watts


Anyway my cirucit is safe in power rating. So is yours. Either way makes the same thing. My circuit generates basically no heat and it has held up for over a month with driving of the car.


Note - I actually used 1watt 1000ohm resistors. These resitors are never constantly switched on either. One injector fires then another. Even at 6500rpm, the signal is still pulsed.

The formulas are there please tell me where I'm wrong..

Edit - Lets try to keep this thread on target too. PM me if you have any other questions and/or doubts about the emange and what i'm doing

[dredder]

Current=voltage/resistance
Current = 12V/1000ohms = .012amps

Current = 12V/16ohms = .75amps

amps^2*ohms=power(watts)

my ciruit .144watts

your circuit 9watts


Anyway my cirucit is safe in power rating. So is yours. Either way makes the same thing. My circuit generates basically no heat and it has held up for over a month with driving of the car.


Note - I actually used 1watt 1000ohm resistors. These resitors are never constantly switched on either. One injector fires then another. Even at 6500rpm, the signal is still pulsed.

The formulas are there please tell me where I'm wrong..

Edit - Lets try to keep this thread on target too. PM me if you have any other questions and/or doubts about the emange and what i'm doing

Nice going. Another cheap alternative to DIY tuning.


By the way what size is your intercooler?

[ltw97m3]

looks like the one i have in my room...ebay style....24x12x3 or 4"....my guess being the 4"

[5mall5nail5]

I will check them out but you could run a 1000ohm 1/2w resistor with constant voltage through it all day long. They do not heat because of the high resistance. This goes back to electrical forumals. Theres no need to simulate the resistence. It isn't a resistance issue.

It is of course a resistance issue, thats what the ECU is looking for resistance = load.

I won't say anything more but 1/2w is on the very low scale - why not use the 10 - 25w ones and have that safeguard? Also, when at high RPM the injector circuit is basically closed aka not very pulsed at all

[dmb882]

its the 4in one

it cleary is not a resistance issue. rather voltage. The stock ecu injection out had dropped to tvolts where as if u chechk the output without the piggyback hooked up it was around 12v. By using the resistors brought the proper voltage back to the ecu.

I used 1watt resistors. 5heres no need to use the 15 to 25watt ones because they are way overkill and they are physically huge compared to mine.

Even if the injector were constantly on for 24hrs a day all year long the circuit would still be safe as it is within the minimum power rating needed.

[5mall5nail5]

Ok I am not chiming in here but you should probably take an electrical engineering class. Resistors do not limit voltage. It is not a voltage issue. The very fact that the stock DME is pulsed ground tells you that its not a voltage issue. Its a resistance sensing circuit, thats why its important you use 14 - 16 ohm resistors (anything greater than 10 ohm really) with enough capacitance to sink the current. If you really want to use 1 watt resistors on a "High Impedence" injector circuit I cannot stop you from doing that, pop your little box open and I bet your resistors are discolored.

re·sis·tor ( P ) Pronunciation Key (r-zstr)
n.
A device used to control current in an electric circuit by providing resistance.

Does not limit voltage.

I do not mean to be a jerk/ass/etc, but you are confused as to what the resistor is doing and that is why you chose a 1000 ohm 1w resistor... Ever see the resistor packs supplied by U-Tec for subaru/evos/etc? They're larger than 1w resistor packs for a reason.


Here is a thread I posted a while ago asking about this very concept. Read it and see what they say - these guys are nearly professional in everything.
http://msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=17156&highlight=

[josemg]

Ok, ok, ok, hold your horses guys...

This a forum, not a book, so you guys need to cooperate, agree and disagree back and forth.

First, dmb882 has done a lot for the forum giving all of this information, which greddy has denied to support for BMW cars. That's a fact. He's just doing try and error and it worked. So, what!!! Need to improve it's circuit? Well, the world is not perfect but it's happening.

The point that Jon (urinemachine) is trying to get to the thread is that you are using a huge resistor to minimize the heat going into the circuit. The fact is that he has a fact (which is not completely good, but near to reality).

Anyway, when you (dmb882) use the 1K 1Watt resistor, what you have done is to lower the current going to your coil. It is not that you can't use it, because it worked, but it is not practical.

The secondary of the coil depends on how much charge is going into the primary coil, and is called Q (energy or charge). Due to the nature that the energy has a balance (not created from nowhere), the charge or energy going into your plugs via the coils will be proportional to the energy or charge going into the primary.

So, in this case Jon has the reason of complain. It is not true that the resistor (re.sis.tor) is only used to limit the current, because the resistor can do a lot more than limit the current.

There is a package resistor which is more practical than using the huge block resistor. It is a 15 ohms 25 watts resistor.

link http://www.ohmite.com/catalog/pdf/tbh.pdf

There are other power rates, but not available at the moment.

Also, you can check at mouser for yourself for electronics parts .


Peace and love...

[highboostingm3]

Urinemachine does it again. Comes in, stirs the pot and keeps stirring to blow the thread. Be positive or don't post. You have done this so many times. It's like all of a sudden now that you are doing this turbo system with MS on your car so you think you are God and everyone else is an idiot.

[dmb882]

ill fully prove this later tonight


this is for fuel not the igniton to the other poster

[dmb882]

another thing... it doesn't pay to get into a pissing contest. I'm not trying to prove you wrong but I'm trying to show that my circuit is fine. also ceramic coated resistors don't discolor they crack.

[Geno325is]

Urinemachine does it again. Comes in, stirs the pot and keeps stirring to blow the thread. Be positive or don't post. You have done this so many times. It's like all of a sudden now that you are doing this turbo system with MS on your car so you think you are God and everyone else is an idiot.

QFT... i agree

[josemg]

ill fully prove this later tonight


this is for fuel not the igniton to the other poster

Actually I am doing my homework of the pull up resistor and I am taking a picture from the forum to verify the information. It saved me a lot of time checking my DME.

pull up resistor DME.JPG

It doesn't look clear but I think that it is a 201 (which is 200 ohms) or a 102 (which is 1000 ohms) pull up resistors to drive the keys

Motronic pull up resistor.JPG

The diagram shows that it has already a pull up resistor, so the idea of doing it again.

So I think that's the reason it should work fine with 1K ohms.

Keep the thread alive.

[5mall5nail5]

Some people consider advice a "stir up". Hey man, if your small wattage resistors are working then great. All I am saying is that when I use 15 ohm 25w aluminum resistors and they get pretty warm to the touch, your 1/2w units are in for a treat. Take it or leave it - I've done this before.

[E36bmer]

the 1000ohm resistors should work fine. The reason the 15ohm resistors heat up so much is that they are such a low resistance. Think of it as just touching a power wire together with a ground directly. It creates a lot of heat. Well if you put a little resistance on that say 15ohms it is still going to create a good amount of heat. Where as if you put a really large resistance on that such as 1000ohms so that hardly any current is going from the power to the ground then very little heat will be created. But, still the voltage is there for the ECU to recognize it. Look at Greddy's injector simulators, they are pretty small and I guaranty that they are not just 15ohm. They are probably more along the lines of 1000-2000 ohm. Just ask someone with a greddy injector simulator box to check the resistance. Check the resistance on different high impedance injectors, I bet it varries. With what it seems like you are saying that just by using different injectors the timing would be changed? It doesn't make much sense to me.

[5mall5nail5]

Read closer - when you take the injectors away from the stock ECU and get a 1218 injector valve circuit error, the ecu retards.

[E36bmer]

Read closer - when you take the injectors away from the stock ECU and get a 1218 injector valve circuit error, the ecu retards.

yes, but when you are simulating the injectors you don't get this error. Trust me. I know as I have a simulator box on my car and don't get an error code.

[5mall5nail5]

yes, but when you are simulating the injectors you don't get this error. Trust me. I know as I have a simulator box on my car and don't get an error code.

And I too had a simulator box on my car when i was piggybacking and my 200 ohm 2watt resistors failed

[tpb31]

maybe you did something wrong then

[e36'n]

If the ECU sees too much or too little resistance will it retard/advance the timing at all? Could the wattage of the resistor have any effect?