Instrument Cluster not lighting up

**blueMRoadster** · 10-15-2005, 03:29 PM

Happy Saturday!
I lost the lighting of my instrument cluster since I had the trunk re-welded. You might ask how are the two related.
1. They had to disconnect my aftermarket amp.
(Dealer said it is effecting instrument cluster.)
2. The gearshift knob was pulled out and there were torn wires. (That takes about 90lbs of pressure to pull it off. Though, the car is 7.5 years old. So, I'm not sure what happened.)
The cliff notes to the story is, I drove the car home and noticed my instruments would not light up and knob was loose. I called up the dealer and we agreed on going 1/2 and 1/2 on replacing the knob. I told them the torn GRY/RED wire was probably causing the instrument issue. Got the car back, they said the knob was not causing the lighting problem, but instead thought the AMP was to blame. My first thought was ok they picked out the aftermarket item and blamed on that, though I wasn't sure about it and went along with the idea.
Now you are caught up. So I did the following today:
1) Checked the fuses. - They were fine, all three or four of them.
2) Studied the electrical diagram.
My understanding is, the commonality between the two systems was the GRY/RED wire. This wire is not used with the amp, but is used in my stock head-unit. The wire was connected fine and my sound system was working.
3) I revisited the shift knob. The wires looked to be connected.
The problem is still a mystery to me. I appreciate any thoughts.

**blueMRoadster** · 10-15-2005, 03:33 PM

Oh and yes the dimmer switch is turned all the way on.

**kevin323** · 10-15-2005, 03:41 PM

Had same problem on my Z3 coupe after trying to install lighted shift knob. I managed to short wires and lost my panel lights. They aren't fused, the wiring coil on the panel light rheostat burns out requiring replacement of the headlight switch assembly. Not a big job but make sure you correct the wiring to the shift knob or the new one will blow. I removed the panel below steering wheel to access the rear of switch but have heard of people removing the air vent above it. Good luck!

**blueMRoadster** · 10-15-2005, 03:49 PM

Thank you Kevin with the quick reply. I will look into replacing that part.

**blueMRoadster** · 10-15-2005, 04:00 PM

I'll update this thread when I replace the switch components. I read through the repair section in the Bentley manual and it mentioned use of special tool no. 61 3 100. It looks like I can use a screwdriver in its place.

**Randy Forbes** · 10-15-2005, 06:01 PM

Originally Posted by kevin323

Had same problem on my Z3 coupe after trying to install lighted shift knob. I managed to short wires and lost my panel lights. They aren't fused, the wiring coil on the panel light rheostat burns out requiring replacement of the headlight switch assembly. Not a big job but make sure you correct the wiring to the shift knob or the new one will blow. I removed the panel below steering wheel to access the rear of switch but have heard of people removing the air vent above it. Good luck!

What he said...

Only I didn't replace the headlight switch, as I always use the instrument lights at full brightness anyway.

**swenzi** · 10-15-2005, 09:52 PM

Originally Posted by blueMRoadster

I'll update this thread when I replace the switch components. I read through the repair section in the Bentley manual and it mentioned use of special tool no. 61 3 100. It looks like I can use a screwdriver in its place.

Make sure you fix the shifter first otherwise it might short out the switch again.

**M Not Z** · 10-16-2005, 10:12 AM

Originally Posted by swenzi

Make sure you fix the shifter first otherwise it might short out the switch again.

I agree. Fix it first. I had an exposed wire on my shifter light that shorted out the interior lights. After fixing the wire we found that it had shorted out my light switch. Good Luck!

**blueMRoadster** · 10-19-2005, 01:35 PM

Thank you guys for the great info. Good point, I will make sure I have a good connection in my shift knob.

One other question:

Does the dimmer switch also control sounding the alarm when the headlights are on and driver door is open? The dimmer switch is on order.

Thanks,

Eric

**kevin323** · 10-20-2005, 08:37 AM

By alarm I think you mean the buzzer not the security alarm. It would seem light switch has to be in the loop between door switch and buzzer but I can't remember if I lost buzzer when lights went out.I don't think so. Does the interior light (dome light) work when door opens? If not door switch should be culprit. I'll check the Bently manual wiring diagram when I get chance. Electrics not my strong point though. Ron any ideas?

**johnf** · 10-20-2005, 08:46 AM

Originally Posted by blueMRoadster

Does the dimmer switch also control sounding the alarm when the headlights are on and driver door is open?

The dimmed lighting signal triggers the instrument cluster's headlights-on warning. If you lose dimmed lighting, you lose the warning -- at least on other E36s, and I am reasonably sure, on Z3s.

**Bavarian_6shot** · 10-20-2005, 09:03 AM

Originally Posted by Randy Forbes

What he said...
Only I didn't replace the headlight switch, as I always use the instrument lights at full brightness anyway.

Saves you $50.

**blueMRoadster** · 10-20-2005, 12:38 PM

Yeah Randy posted a pretty cool idea. I opted to go with replacing the dimmer because I want to prolong the inevitable bulb replacement. If the filament does not get as hot it will extend the life of the bulb.

**blueMRoadster** · 10-20-2005, 12:45 PM

Thank you Kevin/John! Yeah the word buzzer was not comming to me that day so I settled with alarm. I'm 26......this memory loss should not be happening, right?

**johnf** · 10-20-2005, 01:36 PM

I would be more charitable and suppose writer's block.

If someone is feeling cheap, errrr, frugal, they could replace Randy's jumper wire with a power resistor. You could home in on a good value by measuring someone else's rheostat.

**Zeke** · 10-20-2005, 02:55 PM

where did that green thing come from? (where did you pull the switch out of?)

**blueMRoadster** · 10-26-2005, 11:36 PM

The green thing is the innards of the switch. I was able to pull the dimmer switch out through the vent after about ten minutes of mumbling to myself. It was a pain in the butt detaching the wires from the unit! I went to the parts department today to pick up the part. The service advisor handed over the switch, and the first thing that popped in my head was, “that isn’t it.” They gave me part # 61 31 1 393 393 instead of 61 31 8 353 506. Oh well, guess I have to wait a few more days.

**Randy Forbes** · 10-27-2005, 09:16 AM

Originally Posted by johnf

I would be more charitable and suppose writer's block.

If someone is feeling cheap, errrr, frugal, they could replace Randy's jumper wire with a power resistor. You could home in on a good value by measuring someone else's rheostat.

Good point, though I would be concerned (in my own case) of picking an under wattage value...

Where's that burning smell coming from?

**kevin323** · 10-28-2005, 02:22 AM

Have you isolated the short? Don't want a repeat. If problem was the gearshift and you can't repair it at least pull off the shifter boot and follow the knob light wires down to the connector. I'd pull the plug and tape over the connector. Let us know how you make out. Good catch on the switch number. So much for one size fits all!

**blueMRoadster** · 10-29-2005, 01:12 AM

Well replacing the dimmer switch fixed the problem.

Thanks guys! Suggestion I have:

1. Mini Mag light was perfect for popping the switch out after removing the knob.

2. In the hole were the switch was removed, right above there is a little screw, spin that out and then you will be able to pull out the plastic vent/switch unit. You may want to pull off the top vent as well to help maneuver.

3. Reinstalling the switch takes a little more patience. I found attaching the switch outside of the dash did not give me enough room to work the vent/switch back into place. I had to first attach the wires and hold the switch in the opening and as I was fitting the unit back into position I would attach the switch.

4. When I was reattaching the lock nut inside the knob I made sure the dimmer setting was in the middle, so that if my fingers did slip I wouldn't accidentally torque the dimmer past its limit and ruin the switch.

Eric

**TWWI** · 02-22-2006, 01:47 PM

Originally Posted by Randy Forbes

What he said...

Only I didn't replace the headlight switch, as I always use the instrument lights at full brightness anyway.

Can this "bypass" be performed after a short has knocked out the switch or is it only useful as a preventative step.

I have the classic symptoms and if I can just jumper the light switch I will go that route, but if I have to have a new switch handy I need to know that before I pull the old one out.

Thanks.

Tal

**Rcs476** · 05-10-2007, 10:21 AM

Originally Posted by Randy Forbes

What he said...

Only I didn't replace the headlight switch, as I always use the instrument lights at full brightness anyway.

I know that this thread is old, but I wanted to say "thank you" to Randy for this picture.

My instrument lights went out about a month ago. Last night I finally got around to pulling the switch. Soldered a wire exactly how the picture shows, reinstalled the switch and I finally have instrument lights again. There couldn't have been an easier "free" fix.

Also, for anybody that is going to attempt this fix (if their instrument lights are out), Blue M Roadster's instructions for removal/install are spot on. If I had read them before I pulled the switch, I would have saved about 10 minutes of trying to figure out how to pull the vent. Stupid hidden screw.

**fefyfo** · 10-06-2007, 07:51 PM

My shift knob came loose and the wires are torn off. I took off the boot, foam padding, and unplugged it. Shouldn't it work since I unplugged it? My instrument cluster still won't light up. Am I doing something wrong? Help.

**Hubjeep** · 04-08-2009, 05:29 PM

Originally Posted by Randy Forbes

What he said...

Only I didn't replace the headlight switch, as I always use the instrument lights at full brightness anyway.

Very nice, thanks. I may do this too, first night driving the car, the lights would flicker a bit when shifting into second, after an hour of driving they completely stopped working.

Since there is no fuse, perhaps installing a fuse in-line with that little red wire would be a good idea, as well as a very low amperage one at the shifter.

BTW, how is the illuminated shifter knob removed? There is a security torx just under the boot.

Thanks, John