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Thread: *HELP* Amp staying on after turning off car and radio...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Chicagoland area
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    177
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    BMWless

    *HELP* Amp staying on after turning off car and radio...

    We recently installed a new system in my friend's 95 M3, speakers with amp and new headunit. We must have gone wrong somewhere with the wiring, I suspect, because when we turn the car off, the amp stays powered on and drains the battery. So the HU isn't sending a "turn off" signal to the amp it seems. The HU is brand new so it's unlikely for it to be the problem. I also checked and made sure the proper wire is connected from the HU harness going back to the amp (its a blue wire).

    Anyone had a similar problem? What could be the cause for the amp staying on even after keys are out of the ignition?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    USA
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    5,042
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    E90, E36, F10, E38, E23,
    you've got a short. the off signal is that the remote lead no longer sends positive power, meaning that the lead is "dead"

    does the radio turn off with the ignition? if so, you screwed up in the wiring somewhere, (big time) and I'd double check ALL of it.
    -

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Louisville, KY
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    411
    My Cars
    1997 BMW 328is, 1992 Isuzu Rodeo XS
    where did you tap into the wire at, behind the radio or at the spot of the factory amp??

    if you tapped behind the radio, try attaching your remote wire to the red wire on the back of the head unit instead of the blue/white wire. this is an ignition wire for the car that acts the exact same as the remote wire does for an amp, but for the radio. it's the "turn-on lead" for the head unit. tap into the red and see what happens.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Johnston, RI
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    2003 330i, 1999 328i (RIP)
    See the REM terminal on the amp? That does NOT get connected to a constant 12V source, it gets connected to a 12V source that only goes on with the HU. You wired it wrong.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Detroit area
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    148
    My Cars
    95 BMW 318TI

    ..

    Had a similar problem with my installation. Check your wires that are going into your amp (the ground, remote and 12V to be exact.) Make sure all of the wires are cut clean and nothing is hanging out of the terminals. My 12V wire was frayed (hard to cut a 0/1 gauge) and was going into the remote terminal just slightly. This caused the amps to stay on 24/7, so just check out your terminals on your amp and make sure your wires are all cut clean and nothing is hanging out

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Chicagoland area
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    BMWless
    Thank you all for your help, when I figure it out tomorrow I will let you know of the solution

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Florence, SC
    Posts
    89
    My Cars
    2000 BMW 323i
    I had this EXACT problem with my car. My system is completely stock except that I added a 10 inch sub and amp in the trunk. This setup was working great for a long while, but one day, I started noticing this weird noise coming out of the stereo everytime I turned it on. It was sort of like a start up pop you hear when running aftermarket 4 channel amps. I was like, wtf, startup noise in an OEM amp? Then, a few days later, my car woudln't start in the morning. I found out after some invesigation that the subwoofer amp wasn't turning off even though the radio and car were turning off. So I checked all of its connections. Power and ground looked fine, but then I saw that I had spliced the remote turn on into the white remote turn on going to the factory amp from the radio. I realized that the startup pop was going because the factory amp was never turning off so when the cd player turns on the noise comes out becasue the amp doesn't have the natural delay in turning on it had before to prevent that. After a lot of testing with voltometer and things, I realized that somehow the relay on the back of the radio that sends the turn on signal, was fried. It always puts out +12v no matter if the radio is on or off. The only thing that would make it not put it out was if I pulled the fuse. The way I fixed this was that I went to the ignition harness, found a big purple wire running up the steering column that is +12v switched, spliced a wire to it, and ran it to the factory amp, where I cut the white wire and spliced this wire to it. This effectively restored both my factory amp and my aftermarket amps turn on/off to proper operation. I would save yourself the time of trying to figure out what is wrong and just run a new remote turn on from the ignition harness. It only took me about 10 minutes, and I completely hid the wire under the plastic trim and back under the rear seat into the trunk.

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