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Thread: Replacing Final Stage Blower Resistor pack

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Post Replacing Final Stage Unit

    Ok I wasn't able to find a DIY to do this so I figure I'll help others who would like to fix this but don't know how. First let's go over the symptoms so that we know we're repairing the right problem.

    Symptoms:
    All the lights on your digital climate control are working and the buttons respond but the blower doesn't blow any air.

    Tools:
    Phillips screw driver
    Torx 20 driver
    10mm socket, rachet and extension

    Parts:
    64.11.6.929.540 New
    64.11-8 380 580 Old

    First thing we need to do is buy a final stage unit. Costs about $100 at the dealer if you have the discount, otherwise it'll be about $125. Apparently there are two part numbers for this part they both look the same but I'm guessing the new one has been improved. Anyway you only need the new part the old one is the one you're replacing. Here's what it looks like:


    Now we need to take off the driver's side knee bolster. This only requires you to remove two screws,one on the right side of the bolster and one on the left. Using the phillips screwdriver remove the following screws:


    Now remove the speaker and footwell light.


    Using the 10mm socket remove the 3 bolts holding the metal shield. And using the phillips screwdriver remove the obd2 port.

    Now you should be able to see the footwell air duct. Remove it by pulling it.

    With everything out of the way you should now be able to see the defective final stage unit. Remove it using the torx-20 screw driver.

    Replace it with the new part and before you put everything back turn on your car and test the blower. If everything is ok proceed to put everything back, and enjoy the benefits of having a blower in your car again.
    Last edited by DeeM3; 12-18-2004 at 08:05 PM.

  2. #2
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    Too many.
    Nice writeup, thanks!

  3. #3
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    how did you diagnose it?
    Dakar 95 M3 (4/95 manufacture)
    Techno Violet 97 M3 (12/96 manufacture)
    Alpine White 16 535i M-Sport (10/15 manufacture)
    _________________________________
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." -- A. Senna
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casebrius
    how did you diagnose it?
    What do you mean. I posted the symptoms. If your symptoms don't match it's probably something else.

  5. #5
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    I'm just curious how you found out that was the problem - did you plug it into a diagnostic machine or just replace this hoping it was the culprit?
    Dakar 95 M3 (4/95 manufacture)
    Techno Violet 97 M3 (12/96 manufacture)
    Alpine White 16 535i M-Sport (10/15 manufacture)
    _________________________________
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." -- A. Senna
    Illegitimus Non Tatum Carborundum

  6. #6
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    1997 328i, 2006 330i
    Is there any need to disconnect battery power while doing this? I'm able to get fairly decent access even without removing the airduct.

  7. #7
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    no need to disconnect battery.

  8. #8
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    Cool! Thanks for this guide it was a great help.

  9. #9
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    Audi RS4. BMW S1000RR.
    sweet i need to replace mine.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    1997 M3/4 Esteroid Blue
    My fan only works at one fan speed no matter what speed I put it at. Would this be the same "fix" if I followed your guide?

  11. #11
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    I'm guessing it would fix your problem.

    BTW, thanks again for this guide I did mine last night and it was very easy. My dash was a little different but I was able to get under there and make enough room to swap it in about 30 minutes.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by akslee
    My fan only works at one fan speed no matter what speed I put it at. Would this be the same "fix" if I followed your guide?
    I don't remember. I think it would but if it doesn't then you need to change the other resistor the blower motor resistor here's an image of it,

    Bimmerparts sells it for $32 + shipping. I have a spare one for $25 shipped.

  13. #13
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    I consulted with the customer rep at BMW, and he told me it was the Final Stage Unit that needs to be replaced. It cost CAD 114 + tax.

    I installed the unit myself, and the HVAC is back to factory default.

    Thanks for the guide which made things really simple and straight forward even for a noob who never done a DIY job on a car.

  14. #14
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    No problem man, glad to be of help. I didn't think there were so many people with this problem. I guess I'll make more DIY's since usually what happens to me happens to everyone else.

  15. #15
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    When I went to pick up my part the parts guy had sold 3 that week and was out of it. I had to wait a few days to get it in. He even made the comment, "This is becoming a pretty common one."

    BTw, The stealer wanted $300 parts and labor to do this work.

  16. #16
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    '96 M3; '12 Mercedes GL
    Nice writeup! Thanks for sharing your experience with us.

  17. #17
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    How to diagnose this issue?

    My a/c will blow fine for the first 5-10 minutes of driving, and then the fan speed gets totally erratic. it will blow, slow, then full speed and then back and forth. Any ideas as to what the issue is? since it just doesnt blow at one speed, i'm thinking its not the resistor, but not sure. thanks!

  18. #18
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    If you're talking about your 01 330ci then I'm not sure because I don't own an e46. But if those problems were happening in an 96+ e36 I would say it's the capacitor inside the climate control unit.

  19. #19
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    Its the '99 e36 M3, sorry. should have clarified. The controls dont lose power, the fan blower just goes crazy. On the way back from lunch, it first didnt want to blow, then blew full blast. Didnt matter if i played with the fan speed switch, or the auto a/c button. i could control the vents, recirculate buttons, etc. Is this still the blower resistor pack?
    thanks!!

  20. #20
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    I'm going to have to say to try the climate control unit first. The fix should take you no more than 20 min tops and it should fix the problem. If by chance after doing the fix you still have the problem then it might be the final stage unit but right now it sounds like the problem is the climate control. Here's the link for the fix of the climate control unit http://www.macadamizer.com/bmwfix.html

  21. #21
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    thank you for the link. the only thing that worries me is that on his description, he says,
    "The AC light on the AC button would remain lit, as would the air vent button (whichever one had been last selected), but the display would be dark, and hitting the buttons did nothing."
    On mine, none of the lights go out, its just the fan speed controls dont work. could it be the same issue or something else?

  22. #22
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    So on yours is only the fan that doesn't work it works only when on full blast correct?

  23. #23
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    here is what it does.. when i first start the car, i hit the auto a/c button. Things will work just fine for about 10 minutes or so.. then all of a sudden, the fan speed goes beserk. it will go full blast, then go slow, then run somewhere in the middle speed, etc. this happens in totally irratic times. i do notice that when i first get into the car and if i manually turn the fan speed to full, then it will stay at full; it wont get erratic. its still blowing cold, the compressor doesnt shut off, meaning, the a/c never will turn itself off, just the fan speed goes crazy.
    what are you thoughts?
    thanks!

  24. #24
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    This is a tough call. But I get the strange feeling I had those symptoms on my car before. But I can't remember what I did. I have only done two fixes on my car in reguards to the climate control. 1 Is the capacitor on the unit and the other is the final stage. There is only 3 possible fixes for your problem picking the right one right now is the tricky part. The way I would approach is as follows:
    1) I would do the capacitor since it costs about $2 and 20 min to do. (I think what you are getting is how mine started at first before it stopped working all together)
    2) If that doesn't work then I would move to the final stage unit cost for the part is about $80. The only reason why I'm recommending this second is because of the price.

    Again the only reason why I recommend doing the capacitor first is because of the price. If it does fix it then you saved yourself $80 + time. I don't think your resistor is bad so the third option is probably not it.

  25. #25
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    ok, sweet, thanks!! i'll tackle the capicator issue this weekend. BTW, where are you finding the Final stage for $80? Bimmerparts has it for $102+shipping, anywhere else i can check to get a better price?
    thanks!
    Jake

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