540i will not start, and Scanner will not communicate with car.

[EisnerRacing]

No problem guys

[EisnerRacing]

No problem guys

oh oh and I'm sorry got busy today but tomorrow I'll see what it takes to disable ews 1
I'm an audio / security installer for the past 23 yrs I have directed electronics tech log in as well as xpresskit bypass for security - there is t a car yet I can't put a remote start on ( well there is a few u just can't ) but I can figure this out

[EisnerRacing]

No problem guys

oh oh and I'm sorry got busy today but tomorrow I'll see what it takes to disable ews 1
I'm an audio / security installer for the past 23 yrs I have directed electronics tech log in as well as xpresskit bypass for security - there is t a car yet I can't put a remote start on ( well there is a few u just can't ) but I can figure this out

[demetk]

Wait, so I can swap in a 404 DME in my car? I have one of these. Would I need amything else though? Seems to good to be true though...

404 dme and snip the green wire at pin 66. From what I read around here that's it.

[xlr8tin]

Where was that green wire again? That's near the EWS module right? Can I do this for my EWS II system though? Does it make a difference between which one, I or II?

[EisnerRacing]

1-2 are diff and requires a diff bypass
ews2 can be done in the computer as well
what is the build date ?

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What's ur email

i also found on those cars the car will not start with a bad cam sensor - sometimes its not the sensor but inside the plug
the cam sensor side of the plug has a rubber boot - ive seen the wire coating fall apart and short
this was mine - 3 wires input , output and ref.
if the in and ref short NO cel light and no vanos control - if the out and ref short no start and cel


and i know this is kinda simple and im sure you have checked them for clicking and output but MAKE sure the ecu relay is working as it should


(FOUND THIS QUOTE AS WELL )
Usually for our beloved E34s, the common no-start problems are always the fuel pump, its relay, and the crankshaft position sensor. The uncommon ones would be the EWS system, a bad dme relay, a bad dme and a busted starter.

[xlr8tin]

Build date is 09/95

greggjess@live.com

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1-2 are diff and requires a diff bypass
ews2 can be done in the computer as well
what is the build date ?

- - - Updated - - -

What's ur email

i also found on those cars the car will not start with a bad cam sensor - sometimes its not the sensor but inside the plug
the cam sensor side of the plug has a rubber boot - ive seen the wire coating fall apart and short
this was mine - 3 wires input , output and ref.
if the in and ref short NO cel light and no vanos control - if the out and ref short no start and cel


and i know this is kinda simple and im sure you have checked them for clicking and output but MAKE sure the ecu relay is working as it should


(FOUND THIS QUOTE AS WELL )
Usually for our beloved E34s, the common no-start problems are always the fuel pump, its relay, and the crankshaft position sensor. The uncommon ones would be the EWS system, a bad dme relay, a bad dme and a busted starter.

Hmm...well that's interesting. Damn I can't even work on it. It's at the shop, locked up until Monday. It costs me $70 to tow and they are literally down the street. I'm not paying another 70 when I had to to get it there. So this really sucks.

I will have to relay this to them. I'm not sure what they have checked. I know they checked fuses and most if not all relays. I have no clue if they check the fuel pump. I'm sure this will be a step they do soon though. I'll ask them Monday so I can rule it out if it's not the problem. Hopefully it is.

The other more pressing issue is the fact that the car will not communicate with any scanner out there? Do you know why this would be? That's not a fuel pump issue...

[Ley3198]

The other more pressing issue is the fact that the car will not communicate with any scanner out there? Do you know why this would be? That's not a fuel pump issue...

If there's no communication to the DME, then its bad, getting no power, or has some sort of wiring problem. Check power and ground at the relay, and then DME to rule it out. If both have power and ground, put a different one in and check it.

[xlr8tin]

I believe they checked for power their and said it was good. Can I just put in the 404 dme? What else would I need to make the 404 dme work?

[xlr8tin]

The more I think about it, I'm leaning toward the DME. It's not even cranking so I don't think the fuel pump or relay since it won't even crank. The mechanic was almost 100% positive the cam/crank sensor isn't it either. The starter was also doing it's job when they put power to it.

So I'm thinking DME or other relays that are involved. Can anyone confirm me being able to put in a 404 DME? What will I have to do to make it work?

[Binjammin]

iirc the car should crank with the key regardless of dme being in the car. Not sure if the ews defeats the starter relay on later cars.

[whiskychaser]

Yea, I know...it's very strange. It's been sitting since Sunday. When I came by to look at it just now, the key was out of the ignition, the dome lights and cluster lights were off, but the window switch lights were on....

If the window switches are lit, the car is 'awake'. So I'd suggest checking for a current drain which could be flattening your battery. IIRC, the power comes from the power protection relay which is turned on by the GM. But if it is stuck in the closed position, the system is permanently powered up. Without looking at the diagrams, I am not sure if this could affect the immobiliser circuit. It may be a total red herring but swapping the PPR may be worth a punt

[EisnerRacing]

you know this reminds me of my Porsche 951 i had years ago - i drove it friday night downtown to have some drinks - drove it home /it sat sat. / sat night i went for a drive after work / mid day sunday i want ed to take it out and no start , just turned over and over - i know these cars and swapped the two fly wheel sensors - always have spares . still nothing

it was the dme - old german dme run a full check to sensors and run a loop sensor in and sensor out - somehow the dme wouldnt let any info out to the sensors $450 spent on sunday at my fav. porsche grave yard in cleavland ga - got home installed the new dme and she fired right up

I was really hoping it was something simple for you but - i would atleast get a new dme - they r cheap for these cars and if its not that you will have a spare -

I keep a lot of spare parts that may cause an issue in the future - when i make a bavauto or pelican order i always throw on an extra part i may need later

I bought a cam sensor with my order last year - i had to replace mine 3 months ago lol glad i had one

*** i must have missed the lights on windows switches are on..... in that thread i sent you there was something about his being on , swapped dme and they went out and the car started

[xlr8tin]

Well I have a whole parts car, but it's a 94 which has the older system. I have two extra doe's but they are not the same as what my 95 has so I'm curious to know if I can just put this in and it will start. To me it doesn't seem like it would and that I'll have to disable the EWS II system for it to work. Does anyone know?

Because one of the main reasons it still isn't fix is because I can't hook it up to a scanner... Makes sense that the main issue is the DME? Right?

[demetk]

The OP already has a 404 dme. He just needs to know if he can use it in his 540. I'm thinking yes but I'm not an expert on the 540.

[xlr8tin]

I just pm'ed you

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I really appreciate everyone's help so far. Thank you all!

[K Fox]

Not sure if the ews defeats the starter relay on later cars.

Yesh, EWS II does interrupt the starter from engaging. This has been a headache for others in the past here in the forum, also (hint, hint OP).

Also OP - the lights on the switches in the console are supposed to stay on for a while after you exit the car (at least, mine do). They usually last a few minutes after you last touched the car, so I'd give the car like 15 to 20 minutes to sit after bothering it and see if they're still on - if so then you know there's something up. But they also come on with the handle pull, so don't touch the car to check.

Also, it is a rather easy swap to put a 404 DME in the car and bypass the EWS II - there are several threads on here about it, but the basics are posted above - install the 404 and cut pin 66 on the DME plug (if you do this, make sure you leave enough to re-connect it later, just in case). Do be aware though, the 404 DME has to be programed for the 4.0L - if it was from a 3.0L you'll need a 4.0 chip. And the chip in your 484 DME will not work with the 404. Do a forum search and you should be able to get all the info you need for this, and you can probably have the DME swapped and check it with the 404 by later today, if you work at it.

Fox

[xlr8tin]

K fox, this is awesome news. I bet my lights on the switches were from this. I'll watch it once I get the car back.

That is great news that the 404 dme is an easy swap. Mine came from a 4.0 so it should be even easier than if it were for a 3.0. I can't wait to throw this in and try it. I'll have to wait for tomorrow and drop off the dme to the mechanic to do since they have it. Thank you very much for your feedback!.... All of you;-)

[xlr8tin]

It looks like it's the EWS module. They jumped the module and installed my 404 DME and cut the green wire. It's started up, but ran like crap...Since it can't communicate with scanners I'm not sure what my options are. Can I buy a used EWS II module from someone and install it and expect it to work? Since I don't have a car now, I'm about to be forced to either put this car away and save it for a rainy day while I buy something for me to drive, or part this car out while I buy something else.

What would you guys do? Keep in mind the closest dealer is at least 150 miles away, and the car doesn't run...

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Well, I drove it home from the mechanic today. A huge success! At the moment I am thinking that swapping the DME, cutting the green wire (At least I think they did, I haven't been under the hood yet) and jumping the EWS module to bypass it has worked. It still runs rough though, but I think this is how it was running to begin with. So I have a lot of work to do to fix this, and since I may never be able to scan it it might take a while. I'm just relieved that it is running, and I can drive it for now. I was about to scrap it and have to stress about getting something else.

Although I think I might have to in the next year, since it's not reliable enough to drive to TN yet. I have until June to do this, otherwise I will be selling it since I'm not paying to ship it. However, I love how these things drive so I will need another 540i/6 in the near future.

I want to take time to thank everyone that have responded and helped me. I couldn't have gotten to this point without all your help guys! Thanks!

[demetk]

Well, I drove it home from the mechanic today. A huge success!

Yes! Congrats on getting through this.

[Binjammin]

lol. TN is like... what? 3000 miles for you? You're going to drive three times that much just putting around town whining about how unreliable the car is!

[xlr8tin]

Hell no. Obviously you don't know this area. I drive a total of 3 miles a day for work, that's round trip...that puts my miles at 480, IF I drive it everyday.....nice try though


Thank you Demetk!

[Layne]

and since I may never be able to scan it it might take a while

We keep saying it, but I don't think you're listening. Scanning OBDI is useless. It's like your investigating a crime and the only witness is a 2 year old. He has no idea what he saw, he just points to the oxygen sensor and starts crying. You don't need it. You will never need it.


If it's truly "unreliable" you get X number of start and stop cycles. Doesn't matter if you go a mile and a half to work or to Tennesee. I've never ever ever had a BMW break down while moving a steady speed.

[Binjammin]

We keep saying it, but I don't think you're listening. Scanning OBDI is useless. It's like your investigating a crime and the only witness is a 2 year old. He has no idea what he saw, he just points to the oxygen sensor and starts crying. You don't need it. You will never need it.


If it's truly "unreliable" you get X number of start and stop cycles. Doesn't matter if you go a mile and a half to work or to Tennesee. I've never ever ever had a BMW break down while moving a steady speed.

I have. in fact I have some pics i can link to when not on my phone, stuck stats causing meltdowns, dead fuel pumps, busted hosed and broken fans that shot blades everywhere. All stuff that's fixable with just money. I sure as hell wouldn't even consider driving an e34 cross country on ancient cooling system parts, especially hoses. Surest way to get stuck.

[xlr8tin]

Well, the coolant system is brand new now. That is one thing I fixed before this all happened, minus sensors...

I just hate to blindly waste money to get parts that dont need to be fixed. Ill have to verify, but but the mechanic said when they did the stomp test to read the code that it quit halfway through...if thats true than im lost, right? At this point I'm not exactly sure where to start. Maybe the 02 sensors, or maf sensor? Right now I don't want to get rid of this car, but we'll see how I feel when I can't figure it out.

Ill need all of your help;-)

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I main wish I would have been able to start out with a better example of a 540i. I didn't intend for this to have to be my daily driver, but I recently sold my daily...

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One more thing I just remembered...When I start it up it runs rough and likes to stall when cold (I believe) if I step on the gas a little it bogs down while parked. I think this is the main issue with the car at the moment. Does anyone have any feedback to double check or look into?