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Thread: Window Regulator: % odds of each type of fault ?

  1. #1
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    Window Regulator: Analysis of failure & URO replacement $69

    My rear left (driver's) window won't go all the way up.
    I am going to open the door and take a closer look.
    We have a week of rain coming.

    I don't think the motor is bad, b/c it still goes down (and 3/4 back up)

    Just wondering, how often is ...
    1) Motor is bad
    2) Cable went off the groove
    3) That "connector" square is bad. The type of problem this fixes

    UPDATE: That kit only works up to 1999 models.

    If it's #3, I might either replace the regulator (with no motor) or use the kit to reattach.

    If you type 51358252429 into http://www.furiousmethod.com/
    the URO regulator (without motor) can be found for $70 (with motor is $229)

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...47&hg=51&fg=10

    UPDATE:
    One more thing. Based on what I saw, I recommend NOT rolling the windows all the way down. At the very bottom, the part that moves goes off the track. On the way back it, it needs to "retrack" itself. Eventually, one day, if it misses the track, your window is now jammed.

    UPDATE: 4 years later, the URO regulator works fine. However, I don't really use the window much.
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 12-04-2016 at 06:38 PM.

  2. #2
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    You really have to pull the door panel to see

    It sounds harder than it really is, just take your time.
    Quote Originally Posted by Aradaiel View Post
    I'm sorry, the m5 and the 528/530 don't feel the same driving them. The m5 is leaps and bounds better. My loud pedal actually does something in the m5, steering is tighter, suspension is tighter and just feels better. The ONLY thing my 525/528/530 does better than my m5 is use less fuel. The whole rack and pinion thing is stupid, they feel the same.

  3. #3
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    I'm using 2 DIY's and already ran into a roadblock. As usual, the internet DIY skips over some part that it deems trivial.
    I can't remove the door panel after you pop the 9 rivets with a pry tool. The TOP part of the door is still fastened securely. (The part that goes around the door lock "rod")
    Anyone have any idea if this is supposed to give way easily or do I need to pop more fasteners?

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1C673rPqDbw&feature=relmfu[/ame] [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrL6rlYl504[/ame]
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 05-20-2012 at 03:53 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnTheFence
    I'm using 2 DIY's and already ran into a roadblock. As usual, the internet DIY skips over some part that it deems trivial.
    I can't remove the door panel after you pop the 9 rivets with a pry tool. The TOP part of the door is still fastened securely. (The part that goes around the door lock "rod")
    Anyone have any idea if this is supposed to give way easily or do I need to pop more fasteners?

    Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1C673rPqDbw&feature=relmfu Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrL6rlYl504
    Ive did it millions of times its very simple Just pull it's still held in by the upper trim. Well not pull but carefully but forcefully separate from upper trim .or just remove that upper trim with it. But with "careful force" funny how you can't get this off from the way you make it seem as though you" know it all "from previous posts. it's very simple.

  5. #5
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    The regulator I have has the motor attached in 1 piece.
    Different than the ones in the DIY where it's bolted to the door.

    It seems like the regulator itself broke, not the motor.
    The cable mechanism got pulled into the pulley, and therefore shortened the cable, which is why the window wouldn't go all the way up.

    It was a little tricky to get the motor separated from the regulator.
    First, I took off the 4 screws, and the other torx screw.
    There was play yet something was keeping the halves stuck together
    I had to gently pry away the motor, b/c it was being held on by the teeth of the sprocket.

    The motor works fine once detached from the busted cables.
    So, I ordered only a new regulator by URO from BMA for $69 (no motor)

    I just hope the OE motor's sprocket fits perfectly into this new aftermarket regulator.
    I can't imagine it not fitting, b/c everything else seems to be a perfect replica.
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 05-21-2012 at 06:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  6. #6
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    My further research on ebay shows me that lots of LEFT REAR Regulators were sold on ebay, while RIGHT REAR Regulator failure is rare. Then it occurs to me the root cause (at least this is what I think) is in the driver master switch design! Sit in the driver seat and you will realize that every time you press the DOWN button on the driver window, it is very easy to hit the UP button of the Left Rear Switch because these are very close together. If you keep pushing on the UP button of the Left Rear Switch so many times (forcing it to go up when it is already up), the regulator will fail with time.


    Nice thinking, and I can back up your hypothesis! When you accidentally press UP on the wrong window (already up)....100's of times over the span of a few years, this eventually snaps the tab and yanks the entire cable housing itself into the pulley. The net result of this offset cable is that the window won't raise up all the way when the cable is fully retracted.


    Here's a photo of my broken rear left regulator (which stopped working this week)
    The picture on the left is how is should be positioned...
    On the right, look how the cable housing/sheath was yanked up into the pulley.
    Notice that it bent the metal tab that keeps the housing in place.




    FYI, my regulator is a "1-piece", with attached motor.
    My original motor works fine once detached from the broken cables, and I will install it on the replacement regulator.
    This is easily a $500+ repair at the stealership, as they will replace everything.
    Using my parts searcher website, you'll find that BMA sells the regulator/motor combo for $229.
    But, it also sells just the regulator alone for $69. (URO)
    Since it was just the cables/regulator that failed, I went with the latter.
    I will install mine in a few days and report back.



  7. #7
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    Awesome! I'm having similar issues with the exact same window. Please let us know how the project went, as of now my window is being held up by a piece of wood.

    Thanks!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachary View Post
    Awesome! I'm having similar issues with the exact same window. Please let us know how the project went, as of now my window is being held up by a piece of wood.

    Thanks!
    Yeah, Left Rear here for me too. I drilled a hole in the regulator and put a bolt in it that will hold the window up. I'm planning on getting a new one soon.

    On mine it looks like the cable slipped off and chewed up the gear. That or the gear was chewed up and the cable fell off. Either way I tried to rethread it and it just fell back off. I'm going to buy a new one soon whenever I order my coil overs so they will be shipped together.



  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachary View Post
    Awesome! I'm having similar issues with the exact same window. Please let us know how the project went, as of now my window is being held up by a piece of wood.
    Thanks!
    Getting to it is 80% of the work!
    You should swapped it out while you had the door open...

    If you type 51358252429 into http://www.furiousmethod.com/
    the URO regulator (without motor) can be found for $69 with free shipping from BMA

    There is also a used one on Ebay for as low as $40
    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_saca...8252429&_rdc=1
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 05-25-2012 at 07:39 AM.

  10. #10
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    how do you tell if your motor is still functional? I just separated it from the regulator and a couple of little plastic pieces fell out and a spring.....i kinda figured out how to put it back on the regulator when i order one. My window is doing the same thing as yours, and it's the same window. also i found my cable was the culprit.

  11. #11
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    I figured if the window still moves at all, the motor is good.
    To double check, once I had everything apart, I plugged the power cable into the seperated motor, and saw that the window button turned the gear.
    So, I knew it was good.

    Let me know how it goes. This is a very doable DIY.
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 06-16-2012 at 07:23 PM.

  12. #12
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    ok im ordering the part now. when it gets here i'll let ya know how it went

  13. #13
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    My left rear regulator is toast, cable is mangled but worse than your's OnTheFence. About 6" of the plastic outer sheath was ripped apart.

    Motor is fine but I did have 2 tiny plastic parts fall from the motor when I removed it from the gear box. They're not the brush holders as those are obvious but I can't see where these came from. I'd appreciate any clues.

    Are you guys happy with the URO regulators? I need to order something pretty quick since this is the wife's DD.

  14. #14
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    A month later and the URO regulator still works fine.
    Worth the savings if you can reuse the original motor

  15. #15
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    One more thing. Based on what I saw, I recommend NOT rolling the windows all the way down. At the very bottom, the part that moves goes off the track. On the way back it, it needs to "retrack" itself. Eventually, one day, if it misses the track, your window is now jammed.

  16. #16
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    yea the same thing happened to me tusk...no idea where those little guys go...onthefence do you know??? i took the motor off where the 4 torx screws are doh. i didn't realize the unit came with the plastic part on it. ugh i'm gonna attempt to do this now since i received my part yesterday

  17. #17
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    I saved the motor and gearbox but elected to go back with OEM parts. Yeah it hurts the wallet but my car is low mileage and I'll probably have it for another 6 to 8 years perhaps longer.

    I figure I can use these spare parts on the right rear when it fails!

  18. #18
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    yea, i got everything back together, but before putting the glass back in i tested the motor. welp it's shot...so that was a 70$ gamble and i lost oh well.

    update, the motor worked...but i think that it was in the UP position from when the car last was on. and it most definitely yanked teh cord from the regulator and wrapped it all up inside of the housing. pretty sure the whole part is messed up now. might try and respool it. anyone have any ideas to temporarily keep the window up? it's raining out and i have the car in the garage right now.
    Last edited by relited; 06-20-2012 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by relited View Post
    anyone have any ideas to temporarily keep the window up? it's raining out and i have the car in the garage right now.
    Use a stick, 2x2 or 1x2 cut the proper length to hold the window up from below.
    John in VA
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  20. #20
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    Just got my passenger front window stuck.
    Had to re-read this to remember how this all works.
    Wish me luck!

  21. #21
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    Ahhh... What the hell is wrong with us E39 nuts??? Why do we put ourselves through this repetitive hell??? Lol
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  22. #22
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    The front passenger door window got stuck again.
    This time it was a different section of the regulator that was getting hung up.

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