I have a TRM stage II turbo system, and with my eboost2 set at the factory default "0" settings, I'm seeing boost of 10.8 psi with a 7.25 (beige) spring in my Tial MVS wastegate. Turbo is a gt3582r. What should I look into? I'm trying to control it such that I can reach about 13 psi but running 10.8 psi on wastegate pressure, I overboost every time I try to ramp it up any higher.
What might I have hooked up wrong? Problem with the wastegate?
Thanks!
1st
Congrats on your purchase. Be ready to wear man diapers to catch the side effects of boost from one of the BEST BMW turbo kits out there.
2nd
What map/routing are you using between your Eboost2, WG, BOV, manifold, charge piping, vacuum source, etc?
Maybe a simple drawing of your vacuum tubing will guide the PROS here to expedite your MASTER boosting to come.
3rd
Rejoice in your decision to boost. Do not pretend to be a hardened skreet criminal. Be yourself. Visit more often.
very crude but here it is....
[IMG]http://www.****************.net/t/cyjyx.jpg[/IMG]
note: forgot to include it but BOV is synapse mounted right on the charge pipe taking it's vacuum from post throttle plate
[IMG]http://www.****************.net/cyjyx[/IMG]
Last edited by silverbullet21; 05-04-2012 at 09:03 PM.
Yup,
looks exactly like what a PRO suggested to me.
Maybe a sticky WG?
Double check the "0" ebooze setting?
The only thing I can think of is to try it without the ebc. Maybe I'll give that a go tomorrow
My EboostII had an issue out of the box. The unit always read high and always hit the overboost feature. I tried everything and it always read high and overboosted. A quick swap for a greddy profec b fixed my issue.
OLD
E30
636whp
1/4 mile: 10.91@144.38
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_f7fUVqblI
NEW BUILD
335d
520whp
635wtq
120.51mph trap speed
never had this issue with my tru boost
“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
I never had this issue with my eboost2. Assuming all the hardware is correct and installed correctly, I would first change your eboost2 wastegate set up to the single hose to wastegate version. I think the two port method you are using is for the fastest possible response and with the fast spooling GT35R, it may overshoot the target. I run the single port method with the top port to atmosphere. Check the diagrams in the manual for the hose routing since the rest of the routing changes. If this does not help, I would leave it single port and adjust the eboost2 settings from their default. The instructions give some guidance, but it takes some experimentation and studying to dial the eboost2 in.
Last edited by milKt; 05-05-2012 at 10:27 AM.
Congrats on the kit. I have a stg 2 s50 with true boost. Is it spiking to 10, or hooding 10 to redline, if spiking you may want to change your controller hose location all the way to comp housing. If holding to redline consider it a 10 pound spring and adjust accordingly.
I tried everything with mine, no matter what, it was reading inaccurate. I reset it repeatedly and it was still inaccurate. The boost controller was installed as the directions specified and I even tried the different configurations. I'm not sure what was up with it but... the controller did not read the correct boost pressure (read high) and would always hit overboost.
I still have my unit. I can send it to you to test. Maybe I did something wrong or overlooked something...
OLD
E30
636whp
1/4 mile: 10.91@144.38
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_f7fUVqblI
NEW BUILD
335d
520whp
635wtq
120.51mph trap speed
The TRM kit didnt come with a controller so I bought a eboost2.
I was going to try running the hose directly to the wastegate to check what exactly wastegate spring pressure gives me.
Also it is holding 10 psi to redline. Spools up quick and hits just over 10 and sits there. The spring is supposed to be 7.25 - how often do they differ from the given settings?
Thanks! I'm new to this haha
Alright, just tested it. I run the signal line (from the charge pipe near the maf sensor) directly to the side port of the wastegate with the top open to the atmosphere (TIAL MVS) and I still hit 10 psi in second gear.
So I'm guessing it's one of three things:
1) Eboost2 isn't reading correctly
2) The spring I have isn't actually 7.25 lbs even though it's supposed to be
3) I have some other issue that's not letting it bleed off properly?
Last edited by silverbullet21; 05-05-2012 at 03:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Very interesting. Have you tried running this with eboost off? Does it still read higher? Do you have a secondary boost controller to compare readings. I'm using eboost's 4 port selenoid; and not the three port. What exhaust manifold are you using? What size is your wastegate? When I had the active exhaust manifold modified to fit my 40/94R; It would read higher boost levels. This was due to the wastegate's dump tube being too restrictive. It did not allow the wastegate to bleed off sufficent exhuast fast enough resulting in higher boost readings and in some cases lead to boost creap..
The dump tube shoul be the same diameter size as the wastgate pathways.
I ran it without the evoost2 solenoid and it still read 10 psi. I dont have another boost gauge at the moment to compare readings though :/
My manifold is an SPA manifold and the wastegate tubing is the same size as the ports for the MVS wastegate. I dont know if it's creep of not. The boost steadily builds till about 10 psi and stay there, no spiking
If your remove the eboost 2 hosing completely and run the wastegate off the compressor discharge nipple and still get 10 psi with a 7 psi wastegate spring, the problem is not the eboost2. The eboost2 cannot lower boost below the minimum you would get without it. In such a case, I would look for a hardware issue or installation issue. Porting the wastegate hole is commonly done on some cast manifolds, for example.
What is he using to read boost? The eboost or another gauge?
OLD
E30
636whp
1/4 mile: 10.91@144.38
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_f7fUVqblI
NEW BUILD
335d
520whp
635wtq
120.51mph trap speed
wg springs are just kinda more of a reference, not a 100% exact number....being off a psi or two does happen.
~Ken~ '99 M coupe THE "original" TT Stage 3 - HTA3586R; 701 whp 672 wtq @ 26.5 psi ; NeverSell - CoupeCartel
I agree. Also depends on size of wg pipe, open dump etc, etc.Originally Posted by Z3speed4me
I was running a .6 bar 8.7 psi but was hitting 10 psi. Then went to 1 bar and was around 17-18
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
I would run it off the turbo discharge not the post intercooler charge pipe. Pressure drop through the IC might be 1-2 psi and this will throw off the wastegate by telling it to open later, which could be a little too late.
The lies some difference of opinion over these two WG reference locations (comp housing or cold side charge pipe) recently.
I was hitting 10 psi without the eboost connected at all and with the dump open (down the downpipe and out). As I'm using a setup that TRM typically uses themselves and sells to customers, I don't think that this would be a hardware issue. Could it be that the eboost is simply reading/displaying an incorrect pressure? I mean, how likely would it be that a wastegate spring is providing boost 3 psi higher than its rated for? As for porting the wastegate, isn't that for boost creep? I'm not sure whether of not I have those symptoms...
Alot of things come in to play.
Load on the car
Gauge
I would borrow a mechanical gauge, run a temporary line in the car and rip it on the highway in 5th gear
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Dumping to atmosphere alone has been shown to change boost control. Some people creep more with an open dump than with a recirculated dump.
Lots of variables to control here before blaming the little electronic gizmo. Always best to get it working right or as right as possible given any limitations, and then add the electronic doodads. Otherwise you can't be sure of the source of the problems.
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