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Thread: Seized spark plug - How can I remove?

  1. #1
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    Seized spark plug - How can I remove?

    I was replacing my spark plugs last night and came across ONE stuck plug. I believe I made about 3-4 rotations to unscrew it but it just won't budge now. Luckily I broke my rachet in my attempt, was using a long torque wrench. I read up that I should spray some lube and let it sit overnight and also warm up the engine a bit before trying again.

    My question: Now that I turned it a few times and the spark plug is no longer fully screwed in, should i start up the car to warm it up? If so, do I attempt to place the boot back on? (it will no longer screw in all the way since the plug is about 1/5 of the way out) Or can I start the car with 1 out of 6 boot unplugged? Never done this before with my car so I wanted to make sure I wasn't potentially breaking anything.

    Need Help.. I'm sore from last night.
    Last edited by BMWknight; 02-29-2012 at 05:06 PM.
    Current rides: e60 M5 6spd white/red, e46 M3 w/SMG white/red | Ex-cars: e39 528iA w/sprt pkg white/tan, e36 328i sedan black/grey, e30 318is 5spd red/black, e46 328ci w/sprt pkg black/tan, two other e39's

  2. #2
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    If you already loosened the spark plug I wouldn't run the engine. As you might end up with spark plug in your roof and no threads in your cylinder head.

    If you can tighten it back, then it's OK.
    Last edited by zener; 02-29-2012 at 05:32 PM.
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  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnTheFence View Post
    Why don't you screw the plug back in?
    ... and go to the DEALER, ask for a SP change and blame the damage on them
    Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket

    Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnTheFence View Post
    Why don't you screw the plug back in?
    I didn't try that yet bc it would make all my hard work of losening it a few revolutions go down the drain.. plus I was afraid of snapping it off.

    Is it possible to break a stubborn spark plug at the hex part?
    Current rides: e60 M5 6spd white/red, e46 M3 w/SMG white/red | Ex-cars: e39 528iA w/sprt pkg white/tan, e36 328i sedan black/grey, e30 318is 5spd red/black, e46 328ci w/sprt pkg black/tan, two other e39's

  6. #6
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    It's usually better to go back and forward and slowly try to get it out, instead of just trying to get it loosen straight away.
    Current rides: E65 730dA '04, F10 520dA '11, E34 520iA '91

    Old rides: E46 316Ti, E53 X5, E38 728iA, E39 528iA, E46 318i Touring, E38 730dA, E36 316i, E36 328iA Cabrio, E38 728i, E38 750i, E36/3 320i, E36 318i, E39 530dA Touring, E38 740i, E39 528iA, E34 525iA, E32 750iL, E32 730iL, E34/2 525TDS,
    E34 525i, E28 518i, E34 535i, E34/2 525iA, E30/5 325i, E34 535i, E28 520i https://www.instagram.com/zener__/

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by zener View Post
    It's usually better to go back and forward and slowly try to get it out, instead of just trying to get it loosen straight away.
    Ok, I was planning to give this a try too. Thanks.
    Current rides: e60 M5 6spd white/red, e46 M3 w/SMG white/red | Ex-cars: e39 528iA w/sprt pkg white/tan, e36 328i sedan black/grey, e30 318is 5spd red/black, e46 328ci w/sprt pkg black/tan, two other e39's

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zener View Post
    It's usually better to go back and forward and slowly try to get it out, instead of just trying to get it loosen straight away.
    +1
    Spritzing a bit of lube down in there might also help. (anything is better than dry)
    But if the threads are screwed....well, they're just screwed and will need re-tapped if possible. If you're lucky the back and forth action will re-cut the threads and you'll be ok.

  9. #9
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    Sounds like you've already screwed the pooch. Was the engine hot when you tried removing them?
    You can put a bit of solvent that disolves carbon, Seafoam may be good for this, into the plug hole and hope it seeps in(overnight). It may just be carbon on the exposed threads of the plug making it tight.
    If it doesn't want to screw back in and you applied enough force to break a ratchet I'm betting the threads are galled up bad but will keep my fingers crossed for you.
    Meanwhile read up on http://www.timesert.com/
    Last edited by ross1; 02-29-2012 at 08:39 PM.

  10. #10
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    Ford Triton engines have plug problems. Go to a dealer and get the solvent they use to loosen the plugs.

    Don't keep futzing with the plug until you get some solvent in there to soak a day. Leave it where it is right now.


    Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

  11. #11
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    Some possibilities:

    1. The P.O, cross-threaded the spark plug.

    2. Galling/Seizing.
    Spray generous amount of PB Blaster or some WD-40 down.
    Let it sit overnight.
    Then screw in back in, then out.
    Then in and out slowly until it comes out.

    Some people have had this issue before (search forum), search for the pic with damaged sp plug threads.

  12. #12
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    Ed is spot on. The Triton motors have a very stupid bit of engineering that allows carbon buildup in a bad spot. Broken off plugs are common. Use the penetrant they use, give it some time, then start by trying to wind it in. Then work it back and forth. Rethreading the hole afterwards is easy.... takes a $25 kit. But the plug has to come out, whole, first.


    /.randy

  13. #13
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    +1 with using the PB Blaster and let it sit for a few hours or overnight.

  14. #14
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    + pb blaster leave it.. make sure to use antiseize going back in

  15. #15
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    It's galled period. If it were mine I'd first purchase an internal 14mm chaser (KD Tools # 3445) and chase the good holes from the inside out. Reinstall the plugs with anti-seize applied, start the car and let it warm a little not a lot, then remove the galled plug you'll have a sinking felling but it's got to come out. Assess the remaining threads first try chasing as per above, by starting from within the chamber there are some good threads to allow the tool to start if you go from the outside in you'll make it worse.If you can't reestablish threads look into a Timesert rethreading kit. Always use anti-seize.
    This next sentence will ignite a firestorm, but for the last 30+ years, working on BMW's I've always used anti-seize and removed my plugs with a warm engine, not hot. And I might add I've never had to use any Helicoils, Timeserts, etc. Just my .02

  16. #16
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    Always use antiseize when going into aluminum.. Doesn't matter what kind of car it is.

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