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Thread: Fix for infamous LBF problem

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrayzeeM3
    i have some wire taps that taps two wires together at the same time. Theoretically, it would short the circuit, I wonder if this would work, if it does you dont have to snip any wires, just unsheath them a little bit. Anyone want to try?
    Hey Kent,

    I thought wire taps were just a type of connector to connect one wire to a complete circuit (i.e., a wire with no open ends). Worse comes to worse, I would just use some scissors and strip each of the four wires. Then twist them together and cover with some electrical tape.

    It would, however, be a good idea to get some male & female connectors as well as some butt connectors (more permanent though but good and quick). You can get some at Radio Shack or Home Depot. You'll also need a crimper which can be expensive.

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  2. #27
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    Yea I bought a molex connector from radioshack but just ended up twisting them together, soldering, and wrapping with electric tape. Couldnt figure out how go get the damn wire to stay in the molex connector.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Estoril4dr
    Yea I bought a molex connector from radioshack but just ended up twisting them together, soldering, and wrapping with electric tape. Couldnt figure out how go get the damn wire to stay in the molex connector.
    HAHAHHA I did the SAME EXACT THING! First I put them on the wrong damn wires then I tryed to get them off and I was like ah F%CK it so I just soldered them glad I wasnt the only one I felt kinda newbish

  4. #29
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    thx for the fix man! i vote this to be in the DIY site!

  5. #30
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    i would pay for something that doesn't involve wire cutting, etc (Matt, weren't you coming up with something like that?)

    Wheels in Sig are SSR GT3's 19" E46 M3 fitment. Dinan E46 M3 Suspension. Pic thanks to Kyle K.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ali
    i would pay for something that doesn't involve wire cutting, etc (Matt, weren't you coming up with something like that?)
    As far as I know, this is BY FAR the easiest fix for this problem. Others I have read about require wiring in a huge amount of resistors or messing with your fusebox. If you've got this problem, this is the way to go.

    2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by clumpymold
    As far as I know, this is BY FAR the easiest fix for this problem. Others I have read about require wiring in a huge amount of resistors or messing with your fusebox. If you've got this problem, this is the way to go.
    Agreed, plus its not something that you'll never be able to hook back up if you want it again.
    Todd Maurer
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  8. #33
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    Bump for a GREAT fix!

    Still have yet to do it but I'm sure it'll work.

    2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
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  9. #34
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    WTF is LBF? And how does one know when one's LBF has failed?


    _

    "It's not the people who vote that count, it's the people who count the votes."
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by badmonkey
    WTF is LBF? And how does one know when one's LBF has failed?


    _
    LBF = lettuce bacon and fries. A special you add on to a typical cheeseburger.

    Seriously, it stands for "LOW BEAM FAILURE". Your OBC will say that when one (or both) of your low beam bulbs have gone out. It does this by checking the total wattage received. Most people get this problem when they install HIDs since they require less wattage to be powered (70 watts total vs. 110 watts with stock halogens). This "fix" will hopefully solve this problem but now we won't know if one of our lights are out.

    2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by clumpymold
    LBF = lettuce bacon and fries. A special you add on to a typical cheeseburger.

    Seriously, it stands for "LOW BEAM FAILURE". Your OBC will say that when one (or both) of your low beam bulbs have gone out. It does this by checking the total wattage received. Most people get this problem when they install HIDs since they require less wattage to be powered (70 watts total vs. 110 watts with stock halogens). This "fix" will hopefully solve this problem but now we won't know if one of our lights are out.
    Are you SURE it's total wattage? Not resistance? Not voltage?

    Why would some cars have it and not others? It's the same wattage isn't it? My car doesn't get the LBF, but someone else's 98 M3/4 might.

    LBF = comes in many varieties:
    Blown fuses
    Blown bulbs
    or....and that's the reason mmaigret came up with this ingenious work around.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by umnitza
    Are you SURE it's total wattage? Not resistance? Not voltage?

    Why would some cars have it and not others? It's the same wattage isn't it? My car doesn't get the LBF, but someone else's 98 M3/4 might.

    LBF = comes in many varieties:
    Blown fuses
    Blown bulbs
    or....and that's the reason mmaigret came up with this ingenious work around.
    Yes, I'm not 100% sure so it could be any of a variety of other factors. It's just what I've read on these forums. The main differences between an HID kit and the stock halogen setup (aside from the light output, etc.) is the wattage used, I believe. They both use the same voltage. Not sure about resistance since I haven't measured that yet.

    A blown fuse would result in less wattage returning to the sensor, which is essentially the same thing as a blown bulb, but I'm not 100% on this either. Just what I've read.

    I am curious, however, as to why some get it and why others don't. As of now, this has been one of the easiest fixes to this problem but isn't there a way to determine the differences between, say, your kit/setup vs. one that gets the LBF? Maybe that would be an easier fix?

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  13. #38
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    Hmm, something I didn't know...

    My fix was to remove the OBC, useless POS it is.

    _

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  14. #39
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    Amazing write-up and so easy.. took 30 minutes and *poof* no LBF.. Quick ? though.. We connect the wires on the wire/car side.. do we just leave the wires on the connector/CCM side hanging? I sealed them to prevent any arcing and all seems to be working fine..

    Thanks,

    Sachin


    <img src=http://latakia.******.org/~sachin/sig.jpeg>
    <p>
    ...ouch, I got bit by the mod bug.
    <p>

  15. #40
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    Just did it. This mod is indeed the bomb. Thanks again, mmaigret!

    BTW, I skipped steps 6 thru 8. I just grabbed the needed wires, snipped and connected them. Left the module/plug alone.
    Garrett

  16. #41
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    why not use some butt connectors?
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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by JT///M3
    why not use some butt connectors?

    that's what I did..

    Sachin
    <img src=http://latakia.******.org/~sachin/sig.jpeg>
    <p>
    ...ouch, I got bit by the mod bug.
    <p>

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by JT///M3
    why not use some butt connectors?
    Yeah, you can use just about anything you are comfortable with. I used male/female connectors, so if I ever want to undo it, its an easy/clean re-plug n play affair.

    I also shot my clutch arm pivot points w/ some silicone spray while I was in there. Squeak gone.
    Garrett

  19. #44
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    Good job on the write-up bro! I've installed 3 HID kits on 3 different E36's and never got the LBF error on any of them. Maybe I'm just lucky?
    M3 Sedan Club President #21

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Dog 20/20
    Just did it. This mod is indeed the bomb. Thanks again, mmaigret!

    BTW, I skipped steps 6 thru 8. I just grabbed the needed wires, snipped and connected them. Left the module/plug alone.
    Another one bites the dust!!!! Just did the exact same thing, skipping 6-8. The contortions i had to do laying half way out of the car had me cursing, but it took me in total 35 minutes. MMaigret- MAD PROPS!!!!
    95 M3 Euro Airbox/HFM, 21.5lb Inj, AA Software/Trackpipe/Gen 3, RaceTec Big Bore TB, H&R Sport/Bilstein, OMP Strut Bar , X-Brace, UUC SSK, ZKW w/HIDs. 227whp/207trq before URI Crank Pulley and 3.5" custom intake. "I want to believe"

  21. #46
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    Awesome! I just did this last night and it worked!!! Yay! The CCM was a pain to get to though. I actually had to go through all the steps.

    Now to figure out how to get my fogs to stay on when my highs are on. Anyone know how to do that? I tried this write-up but it didn't work

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...hreadid=188902

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  22. #47
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    Just did this on my '95 M3 with Umnitza 4500k HID's. It was really quick and painless! I was able to clip the wires without dropping or unplugging the plug, so I just skipped that whole part.

    Put the 4 wires together with spade connectors.
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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocWyte
    Just did this on my '95 M3 with Umnitza 4500k HID's. It was really quick and painless! I was able to clip the wires without dropping or unplugging the plug, so I just skipped that whole part.

    Put the 4 wires together with spade connectors.
    Umnitza makes HIDs? Or was it from Umnitza (Xtec kit)?

    I don't know how you guys managed to do this without unplugging that console. It was WAY up there for me. Is it different for different years?

    2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
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  24. #49
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    Think it was the xtec stuff, not sure tho.

    It really wasn't hard to get to on my car at all. I pushed a little wiring out of the way and it was pretty much in front of my face. I did have the seat all the way back and my head on the floor near the pedal cluster tho.
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  25. #50
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    Yet another happy customer! I just soldered and heat shrink, 20min of my life gone for the bling bling.

    Hey you said you had trouble getting the bolster out. Just get it to the point pictured in the writeup and then go to the very passenger edge of it, where it curves down into the footwell 3". Just push back on that section really hard (push directly on that curve dpart, not the bolster as a whole) and a 3/8" lip will come out from behind the center console plastic and then just pull the bolster straight out.

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