Thanks Q!Originally Posted by Qsilver7;
Edit: If the images in Q's post fail to load, I've hosted the images on another site and posted them below.
Last edited by jamesdc4; 05-21-2010 at 05:50 PM.
97 528i. Recently bought this fantastic car. Came with 2 keys- the old style. Buttons were real worn and they didn't work remotely. I bought button kits off an ebay seller- they look new and the little light blinks- also sends the signal according to the tester at autozone. The car had a new battery in it- clock wasn't even set.
Using the keys in the door locks, unlocks, activates alarm (annoying wolf whistle), rearview mirror light blinks, trunk and fuel door lock and unlock.
The remote functions don't work. I tried the above init procedure several times, both keys blink 10 times when button released, but no confirmation from the locking system (no lock then unlock).
There is a receiver somewhere in the car that may be bad? Replaced fuse 53. Is there another fuse for the receiver possibly?
Last edited by DFW Kirk; 01-14-2015 at 02:40 PM. Reason: to clarify
Disconnect the fuel tank door lock actuator. Replace the fuse. Try the initialization procedure.
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Here's the instructions for both old & new style 3 button remote...all in one instructional image:
Become a BMW CCA member! Click HERE to join and feel free to use my BMW CCA member #191509 as a referral.
2015 650ix GC (Moonstone/Cohiba Brown) <<~>> 2014 X5 50i (Space Gray/Mocha)
Thanks for info it worked well. I registered just to pass on a little more info i discovered. When i tried to initialise my keys it wouldn't work until i deadlocked the boot (trunk) on 1999 e39 (old style key). Thought i'd pass it on in case anyone else has the same problem.
Say I have 3 keys. If key "A" is not initialized during the initialization of key "B" and key "C", then key "A" will not work, correct?
1998 E39 540i - Arktissilber Metallic (309) - 6-Speed - Build Date: 4/22/1998 - 215,000 miles - My Daily Driver
1995 E34 525i - Alpine White III (300) - Auto - Build date: 5/1995 - 260,000 miles - This Car Is For Sale!
1995 E34 525i - Arktisgrau Metallic (269) - Auto - Build date: 12/1994 - 174,000 miles - Wife's Daily Driver
-Life is a tragedy for those who feel, and a comedy for those who think.
-The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
-Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.
If the 3 sentences in the 1st paragraph of the programming instructions in post #4 is to be believed...then yes...any key not present during the last programming session...the GM will NOT respond to that key's ID nbr & nor will it have the correct rolling code table.
And the GM is the master control module for 2 of the features of the remote key: FZV & DWA (central locking & anti-theft alarm siren system).
The 3rd feature of the remote key (EWS) has its own control module & operates on a different RF...it's even self powered and does NOT require the battery inside the key to start the car...EWS powers itself thru induction.
Become a BMW CCA member! Click HERE to join and feel free to use my BMW CCA member #191509 as a referral.
2015 650ix GC (Moonstone/Cohiba Brown) <<~>> 2014 X5 50i (Space Gray/Mocha)
Your grammar, spelling, and sentence structure is screwed up; therefore, anything you have said is invalid. :-P
Good to know. Theoretically, given the scenario above, key "A" could still be used to open and start the vehicle, as it is still coded to the EWS, correct? It just wouldn't operate the FZV & DWA?
Just wanting to clarify; I apologize if the questions seem obvious.
1998 E39 540i - Arktissilber Metallic (309) - 6-Speed - Build Date: 4/22/1998 - 215,000 miles - My Daily Driver
1995 E34 525i - Alpine White III (300) - Auto - Build date: 5/1995 - 260,000 miles - This Car Is For Sale!
1995 E34 525i - Arktisgrau Metallic (269) - Auto - Build date: 12/1994 - 174,000 miles - Wife's Daily Driver
-Life is a tragedy for those who feel, and a comedy for those who think.
-The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
-Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.
Correct.
To be explicit - there are two key pairings required for full functionality:
Key pairing with EWS is what allows the engine to start. It works through ring transponder, doesn't require a battery, can't get lost through recoding or battery disconnect etc. It's locked permanently into the EWS until you replace it (or have somebody hack the EWS hardware to clear the EEPROM). At some point the EWS can run out of key slots for this reason.
Key pairing w/ GM is what allows the keyless entry to work. It works via the "FZV" radio procedure above, and can get cleared from battery disconnects etc. but is easy obviously to redo.
Both are completely independent so if your GM or FZV is acting up, the keys will still work fine in the ignition.
Well almost completely independent... there is a procedure listed for emergency disarming the alarm for maintenance purposes if there's a malfunction, and this requires leaving the key in the ignition for 10 minutes... therefore I can only presume this is the GM getting a message over K-bus from the EWS that it sees a legit key and that it is OK to disarm the alarm... but aside from that for practical purposes the GM central-locking/alarm functions are independent of starting...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
So swapping out old battery for new won't damage key, stop it from starting car?
You ask a loaded question that depends on which of the remote keys you have...and also depends on how skilled one is at electronics.
The old style key has 2 screws on the back that allow easy access to change it's replaceable battery. It's easy as pie to change the battery in the old style remote...and would take a tremendous amount of stupidity...or inattentiveness to "damage" that type of remote key (like not noticing that the little odd shape thingy with writing on it fell out...or noticing it fell out and didn't think to replace it...then end up not being able to start the car with the remote key after realizing that you threw that little thingy away...and OMG...it was something really important...the EWS transponder chip!
{innards of old style remote key}
The new style remote key is sealed...so in order to change the battery, you have to cut the key open, desolder the old battery and resolder the new battery into place, then find a way to reseal the key. If not careful...one can damage the internal IC board while trying to break open the key by knocking a capacitor or resistor off the IC board, or scraping one of the traces or antenna...or if your soldering skills are dismal...one can ruin the IC board trying to desolder/resolder the old/new battery into place. You don't have to worry about losing the transponder chip in the new style remote key because it too is soldered to the internal IC board (just like the battery):
{innards of new style remote key}
So the answer to your question depends on one's skills and the type of remote key one has.
Last edited by Qsilver7; 07-20-2016 at 10:51 AM.
Become a BMW CCA member! Click HERE to join and feel free to use my BMW CCA member #191509 as a referral.
2015 650ix GC (Moonstone/Cohiba Brown) <<~>> 2014 X5 50i (Space Gray/Mocha)
I have the newer diamond shaped key ..I can solder decently... But I see ur points..ill take it easy while replacing battery....already paid once to get keys out after I locked them in!..money down the drain..and when I try to lock from outside drivers door. Windows close car locks, I take out the key and the car beeps then everything opens up again as I walk away somethings not right. Stopped at dealer, they told me it maybe the receiver. Fuse or key batt is dead. Will get spare soon also but for now need that remote to work!
Hi.
It seems that this unlock (hold)+ 3x lock procedure doesn't apply for at least my E60 2003 525i production of Nov 17.
I read many posts and forums on this topic, i have a working key(starts the car) but no remote functions.
Tried everything so far.
1-All doors locked
2-Ignition on (not started) tried pos1 kl-r and pos2 all dash lit without cranking in seperate tries.
3-Hold unlock
4-Press lock three times
5-Release unlock.
Nothing at all. I tried the five time switching as well. there was no luck whatsoever.
No blows fuses and disconnected fuel cap actuator to eliminate any chance of failure.
I even purchase a new key with 415/388khz or whatever the frequency I can't recall now. Still no luck. Changed the battery twice. Nada! Changed the diversity antenna. Zip!
FM reception is fairly good.
Reset CAS, tried again with no luck.
The key barrel of the driver's door is faulty so I can't use the key to lock/unlock the doors.
Any ideas?
I recently came accross an interesting procedure.. it goes:
{
Note 3: procedure to manually update the remote control for E60, E61, E63, and E64 (pre-9/05 vehicles):
Sit in the vehicle, close the driver's door, fasten the safety belt and do not press the brake pedal.
Insert the remote key and turn the ignition to position 1 (KL-R).
Press and hold the central lock button located between the center vents.
Switch the ignition to position 2 (KL-15) while continuing to hold the central lock button.
Continue holding the unlock button for approximately 10 seconds after pressing the start/stop button. The gong will sound to indicate that the transfer process is complete.
Remove the key from the ignition.
Repeat the procedure for any additional remote keys.
Note: The brake pedal must not be pressed while performing this procedure or the vehicle will start and this Manual Remote Control Update procedure will be cancelled.
}
I didn't have the chance to try it yet as I am out of country, but I hope it helps someone, I also need to know if someone has had any experience of it.
PS:
Diamond shaped key.
Thanks guys.
Had my key fob not working for the past 8 months after delaying to replace flat batteries until I removed my C pillar and saw that the was only the antenna there and my 2001 e46 320i does not have the microwave based transmitter but has the the Infra Red type and the receiver is in the 'clown nose' under the rear view mirror.If by any chance anyone else has a similar setup here is how u reset your key
1.Close all the doors abd turn ignition switch to position 1 for not more than 5 seconds then remove key
2.Point the key at the clown nose not more than 10cm from it.
3.Press and hold unlock button then press lock button 3 times while still pointing at clown nose.Release all buttons.LED will start flashing
4.Let LED flash for at least 3 seconds while still pointing at clown nose then press lock button.
Hey PRESTO!!!!!!Doors locked
Worked for me today
Hope it helps someone
I am having trouble reinitializing my key FOB for my 1997 BMW 740i E38 after replacing the battery. What do you mean by deadlocking the trunk (boot)?
I think you need to have all 4 doors closed but unlocked before start initialization procedure, I just did that past weekend, at first, I locked the doors and windows are down, it didn't work, after I researched online and found out that doors have to be unlocked so I rolled up windows and unlocked all 4 doors, then I was able to initialized key fob without issue, I initialized one original key fob that I replaced battery and 2 new eBay key fobs that I programmed, all 3 keys are working fine.
Does this process reset the key memory settings for the seat and steering wheel positions?
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