Pricing LS1 Swap

[bimerok]

Originally Posted by Redy 318Ti

I totally know where you and many others are coming from.. i too waited for a really long time before recieving my parts. Patience is a virtue.

Yea, my patience ran out after 2 months of waiting and assurances that never realized. Now, after over 5 months from initial inquiry, nothing have changed.

If waiting for the parts require half a year, that's way more patience than I have.

So I moved on to other alternatives...

[shaggsM3]

I got lucky and was like third in line for the first 10 kits. I almost cried when Fair called me to tell me that they had just shipped out the kit lol.

But yeah, I think they were suppose to make a coolant hose kit, ABS mounting bracket, ABS lines, and so fourth.

But overall, when they do have a product in stock, they are fantastic to deal with

[pistolero]

Originally Posted by esp42089

Have you considered a Ford 5.0? this would prolly save you maybe a grand off the total. Or a iron smallblock? These are both cheaper to buy, and have larger cheaper aftermarkets than the LSx series engines.

Maybe....BUT then you'd have a Ford 5.0 not a CSB.

Worth it to get the heartbeat IMO.

[Tony Soprano]

look at LM7s too. the iron block 5.3 truck motor.

[Demon Speed]

I second or third the fact that's it's going to cost more than you expect. I could have bought a nice used C5 Z06 instead, but everybody has one of those lol.

I put 400 miles on mine so far and just had to pull the trans back out to fix 4th gear. These are things you don't expect or think about. Also buying parts to test fit that end up not fitting, numerous, numerous trips to the local parts store to buy misc. hose, fittings, electrical connectors, wire, heat shields, etc, etc.

If I had to do it all over again, I could certainly do it more cost effectively and much more quickly.

[shaggsM3]

Originally Posted by Demon Speed

I second or third the fact that's it's going to cost more than you expect. I could have bought a nice used C5 Z06 instead, but everybody has one of those lol.

I put 400 miles on mine so far and just had to pull the trans back out to fix 4th gear. These are things you don't expect or think about. Also buying parts to test fit that end up not fitting, numerous, numerous trips to the local parts store to buy misc. hose, fittings, electrical connectors, wire, heat shields, etc, etc.

If I had to do it all over again, I could certainly do it more cost effectively and much more quickly.

No shit! I am contemplating on doing another E36/LS1 swap when mine is done and monies are available, just to see how much faster and cheaper I can do it for lol. I bet after the third one, you could start turning a profit buying used E36's, swapping in the LS1, and selling them for a couple $k over the total build cost

[Seans M3]

Im still waiting for someone to stuff a LS9 in a E36

[hefftone]

I've been considering using a 5.3 and 6.0 truck motor, as they can be be had extremely cheaply. Things to consider though:
Would truck intake manifold fit?
Still need rwd auto oil pan
Still need headers
Still need a manual trans.
Granted, you could pick up an LS1 or LS6 IM pretty reasonably, same with the oil pan. I'm not sure about the harness, I remember reading something about, use the harness that goes with the IM being used, but I can't remember.
LS1's have come down a good bit over the years, especially since the LS2 and now LS3. The T-56 still pulls in good money from what I have seen... I've been looking at TKO's. Ultimately, buying a t-boned or rearended donor car (f-body/GTO) would save the most money in the long run. Then again the demand, and the money from parting out is making those difficult to find as well, unless you can get into a salvage auction.

[shaggsM3]

How do you guys feel on the extra weight from the truck motors, compared to the LSx? That's why I opted for the LS1, less weight

Just a thought

[Bluebimma]

I opted for the ls1 as well because of weight. I guess, on a DD where performance in the handling department isnt too much of an issue, an iron block is more than fine, but when you want to pull every ounce of performance, to a point, an all aluminum engine would be the best place to start.

[sl0ride]

Iron blocks can take much more power. Some budget big power lsx builders use the iron blocks over the all aluminum. The cyl walls are much stronger for blown and nitrous but only in crazy 700-1000+hp setups. So its not like the iron blocks are only for big urban assault vehicles.

With the whole will the truck manifold fit, just remove it and bolt on a LS1, LS2, or fast intake for more top end power.

If your all about weight ratio the iron blocks weight about 100 pounds.