I have heard that this can be felt on the butt dyno, but i have no idea how to do it. what part do i actually adjust?
Thanks
1989 325ix-winter fun----1982 320i- 256k miles and counting ***for sale*** ---1993 325is-parted out
loosen the distributor and turn it. I don't know if it's counter clockwise or clockwise. Attach a tach and a timing light and find out.
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1982 323i
Under the Hood:
M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
Braking/Suspension:
Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
Body:
087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
Interior:
Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge
1989 325ix-winter fun----1982 320i- 256k miles and counting ***for sale*** ---1993 325is-parted out
A writeup on loosening one bolt and rotating the distributor? I don't think there is... (I take it back, there is a good one on page 79 of the Haynes manual)
Do you have a timing light? If you are just messing with it blindly, I would make a mark on the distributor before you start so you can come back to it if you mess things up. If you are having running issues instead of blindly advancing it would be wise to check to see where you are to begin with.
do i do this while the car is running? how do i know if i have gone to far? can i damage the engine if i screw it up?
thanks
1989 325ix-winter fun----1982 320i- 256k miles and counting ***for sale*** ---1993 325is-parted out
Okay, here is the poor man's way to do it. Get the car completely warm and make sure EVERY vacuum leak is tightened. Then, take off the vacuum advance line from the bottom of the distributor and plug it with a golf tee. MARK the distributor so you know where you started. Then, loosen the bolt holding it in place. Have someone step on the gas so it is at 1500 rpms. Turn the distributor clockwise until it speeds up, then back it off until it is JUST starting to speed up again. Tighten up the bolt, unplug the vacuum line and re-attach it. Take her for a test drive. You may need to do a minor adjustment either way.
My son's car was advanced too far, and mine was the other way. This method made it so both of them run smoothly and with pep. If you try this method, let me know how it worked...
Regards,
Tim
One point of clarification...when you back it off, you will notice the rpms drop. Then, turn it back clockwise until the rpms JUST start to increase. Then you will know you are at the "sweet" spot. Good luck...
Tim
Last edited by goinstrong; 05-28-2009 at 12:57 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
ok i wll try it, it doesnt make a whole lot of sence because the distributor is held on with little brackets, but i will try this tomorrow and let you know how it worked.
I used this method and found the "sweet spot". car runs 10 times better and much more peppy in the higher rpm's when it used just stop making power.
thanks much and recommend this to anyone.
Last edited by heartbreaker; 05-28-2009 at 12:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
1989 325ix-winter fun----1982 320i- 256k miles and counting ***for sale*** ---1993 325is-parted out
I set my timing with a timing light per factory specs, marked the distributor with a small tick mark, then started advancing from there a degree at a time to see how it felt as I advanced it further.
I'm running a low compression 2.0L motor so it probably likes a little more timing than stock, plus I run 93-94 octain.
man, i have been driving hard today. my car feels so much more alive. seriously this is awsome.
1989 325ix-winter fun----1982 320i- 256k miles and counting ***for sale*** ---1993 325is-parted out
Yea, I'm considering advancing my timing again. Just passed smog a few months ago, so I guess it's time to add a little personal touch to it again. Hopefully the new head gasket will hold up to it (high compression).
Robert
Tbd
Hey, glad to hear it worked well for you too!! Thanks for letting me know...enjoy!!
Tim
Edis ftw
Bav's Build Thread: http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2498
I know this thread is super old, but seeing as at least the pre '79 e21s have no concrete method of advancing timing (flywheel ball to set initially?), if someone could make a video tutorial and post it to this thread, it'd be incredibly helpful. I'd like to know exactly how to set timing, or advance it (according to the method mentioned in this thread), as this topic has always eluded my understanding.
back in the days when I drag race my big block Chevy, I would start at factory setting (12*BTD) and then add 2 more degrees, take it through the gears at WOT. if it didn't ping I would add 2 more degrees and repeat at WOT. i would continue this exercise until it did ping and then retard it 2 degrees. this would give a ideal timing setting for that moment allowing for air temp, humitiy, air pressure, gasoline, ect.
Tom D
77 e21 - m42
88 e30m3
04 330 dinan3
84 r1000rt
02 r1150rs
all of them gray
14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!
Tom D has a fancy timing light with a degree dial on it.
I've never had one of those, so I use a "blind method" that is not always accurate, especially if the engine is not running the way it's suppose to.
As already mentioned, mark your starting point and do not adjust it too advaced to where it pings!
After the engine is at normal temperature, advance the timing in 25-50 rpm higher increments (the engine idle will raise as timing is advanced).
It's easiest to loosen the dist just enough to where a "gentle tap" will nudge it just a "tiny bit".
Always snug up the dist before driving it.
Adjust idle screw as needed when you're done.
2.0L advance is CCW
1.8L advance is CW
Tbd
you can approximate the degrees by dividing the distributor.
one rotation of the rotor is 360 degrees.
1/4 of the cap (from one post on the cap to another) is 90 degrees.
divide that in half and it's 45*. in half again is 22*.
half that twice more and you have 6 degrees. this is within the range you will be working.
mark the clamp below the distributor and then use it as your reference pointer along with the markings you made on the distributor.
Last edited by Tom D; 07-06-2012 at 05:15 PM.
Tom D
77 e21 - m42
88 e30m3
04 330 dinan3
84 r1000rt
02 r1150rs
all of them gray
14 f800gsa - red headed stepchild!
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