My 2003 325i BMW rear window regulator died on me and instead of wasting $300+ to the dealer, I decide to Do It Myself to save money. This took me a little more than 2hours
For Front Windows please go to http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=911376
it has all the details.
Start up tools:
Thanks to Matthew who gave me the exact size of the needed tools.
Hex T20, Hex T30, 10mm, 8mm, Pliers, small flat head screw driver
1) Use a small flat screwdrive to pry off the door trim piece.
2) You will see 2 Hex screws behind - Remove them.
3) Look under the handle, there will be 2 plastic covers remove 2 Hex screws behind.
4) Remove the window up/down switch remove 1 Hex screw.
5) Use a flat screw driver or anything flat thin, stiff object between the lower edge of the door lining and the door, and pry it off so the plastic clips attaching the panel to the door pop out of the door.
6) Lift the panel up to clear door lock button and pull outward.
7) Disconnect the speakers, window switch cable, and door clip
8) Remove the black foam carefully with a knife to separate from the glue.
9) Bring down the glass window to remove the screw so it will be visible through the rear slider rails (You may need to reconnect the switch to have the motor roll down if necessary). Unscrew it then push the glass up.
10) Unscrew 3 screws to remove the entire Regular
11) Optional. The cable broke off so I had to recoil the cable around the wheel. I had to take of the motor, recoiled it and straighten it back to normal.
12) Identify the problem, the latch broke and could not hold the metal knot. I used zip tie to hold the knot down to the edge.
13) the hardest part is to put the cable back on to the pulley on 1 end and the track the other end. I would use a small/strong screw driver attach to the pulley and try to roll it through. In my case, I connect the switch and use the motor power to run the cable through.
14) put everything back, the foam, the panel and you are done.
Last edited by ph0ngvu; 04-08-2010 at 10:22 PM.
My other DIYs with pictures
1) Replace Rear Window Regulator
2) Oil Change
3) Replace control arm bushing
4) Replace brake pad/rotor
Thanks for the write up. I knew this had to be my problem when the window went down and would not go up. I think a new regulator was $80 or so and I just bought a new one and swapped it in. Hopefully I will never have to open that door panel again.
Thanks again, it was good to know what to look for before going in. Your pictures and write up are spot on.
Great directions. I had to replace the regulator rather than repair. Cost $75 and I enjoyed doing it!
Gary
Joy, my left rear just popped (first one, 60k miles). I must say, though, that it is the easiest one I've ever removed. Lot's of open room and no tricks. No way would I pay someone to do this job.
Nice write up. It took your pic of the trim piece off of the door panel to think of the 2 other screws behind it.
Mine too broke out of the plastic. I may try to rivet some sheet metal to the plastic, while I wait for the new one, just for fun. I ordered the Dorman one from RockAuto.com for $58. The OE part is now $100 online and I doubt it's twice as good.
Last edited by dsmith; 08-30-2008 at 08:40 PM.
dsmith - did the rock auto part work out for you? I am in the process of ordering one but wanted to get feed back on fit?
I noticed on my car there was an extra yellow connector/wire - It wasn't connected to anything? - or maybe it was and i pulled it off w/out noticing.., does anyone know?
Mine e46 328i has a yellow connector too. It's from lateral air bag.
Yes, it's from the airbag. To save some hassle to rebuild, sometime it's just better to buy a new regulator without motor off eBay for ~$50
Last edited by ph0ngvu; 05-04-2009 at 01:13 AM.
My other DIYs with pictures
1) Replace Rear Window Regulator
2) Oil Change
3) Replace control arm bushing
4) Replace brake pad/rotor
Got mine from Autozone for about $85. Advance Auto also had them for about the same price but couldn't get it as fast.
mine broke today... 2001 325i rear right window in 106°F heat. 85K miles. It is stuck in open position. I am looking for vendors who can get the regulator delivered by this Saturday. ebay has some good deals...
Last edited by edhchoe; 07-30-2009 at 01:09 AM.
Stay in school...fishes do.
The only sure place that could get the part delivered to me by tomorrow or the day after which is Sat. was bimmerspecialist they had a very low shipping rate for next day delivery via FedEX. Wow.... I will have it tomorrow by 3 pm. I will get it on by Saturday. Awesome!
Got the window fixed. The hardest part for me was loosening the bolt on the glass. I had to spray WD40 and wait and had to grind the 8mm socket to make it flat. But got the job done in about 2 hours. Saved $$$$$$$.
Thank you!
One touch Auto up function was lost in the process. I had to reset it by turning the key to "On" position and hold the button down to all the way down and hold it up to all the way up and count ten and let go. And the one touch down and one touch up work again.
Last edited by edhchoe; 08-01-2009 at 11:06 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Stay in school...fishes do.
Before you go and spend a lot of money on a new regulator read this. I have a 1998 540i BMW and my rear window stopped working. I could hear the motor run, but no window movement. After removing the door panel and cover I noticed that the control wire simply came out of the control arm of the regulator. It is a small hexigon piece of metal that attaches to the control wire and the control arm of the window regulator. If this is you problem you can fix it. The hexigon metal piece fits into the window regulator control arm. In my case the control arm was missing one side of the fork that keeps the hexigon metal in place. You can fix this for about 5$ By cleaning the hexigon piece and the fork on the control arm and reseating the hexigon back into the fork and using metal putty to keep it attached. DOn't use too much. Just need about a pea sized piece of putty. Wrap the mixed putty around the hexigon and than seat the hexigon back into the control fork. Make sure the metal putty does not touch the slide for the control fork. Let this sit for about 15 minutes and it should hold. Good luck!
Does the screw on the red plastic tab have some sort of nut on the back side?
My other DIYs with pictures
1) Replace Rear Window Regulator
2) Oil Change
3) Replace control arm bushing
4) Replace brake pad/rotor
Folks,
This is a great thread, as are a few others I have just read on this subject.
I have repaired the regulator but I cannot get the cable back over the end sprocket at the top, or over the guide at the bottom.
It will go over the one but not the other.
There is about a half inch short at one end so I cannot even force that end around the sprocket as it turns.
Is there some kind of knack or setup required to rewind the cable around the center spindle?
I seem to be a half turn out when it comes to the outer cable end which goes into the center spindle.
I spent about 4 hours today trying all sorts of set up without success - much like a Rubik Cube......
Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
Ta,
Neville.
Thank you all. Your info was perfect. I just opened my door and ordered the part as you suggested. it is on its way.
Thank you.
I did not see your post and probably you already got it replaced or fixed.
Yea, it's pretty hard to recoil the cable back to the pully and stop at the correct turn. For mine, it was like 2-3 millimeter short and I plugged the wire in to use the motor power to get them in the end track.
My other DIYs with pictures
1) Replace Rear Window Regulator
2) Oil Change
3) Replace control arm bushing
4) Replace brake pad/rotor
Hi everyone,
Thanks for the great write-up and pix ph0ngvu.
Just finished mine with a Dorman from Advance Auto ($88 +tax). Autozone listed them on their website, but were special order. I found multiple Advance Auto stores locally that had them in stock (Maryland). I was surprised at how tough the foam sound deadening material is! You can pull pretty good on it, and it doesn't tear. I used a razor knife to cut the stretched rubber sealer/glue as I pulled the foam. Start at the top and work your way around until you get to the bottom. Just let the foam hang (pic 6) from the bottom and it will already be lined up when the regulator install is complete.
I was taking my time and it only took about 45 minutes.
Thanks again ph0ngvu !
Just put my dorman reg in (30 min), but the retainer for the bolt that holds the window to the reg is missing. So when you do this make sure to secure the back side of the window when unscrewing it and place that retainer somewhere safe. Hopefully the dealer stocks these.
I just replaced the driver's side rear regulator in the 328i, using the Dorman 740-480. I got it on sale at Advance Auto, and it was in stock!
The hardest part, for me, was removing the window switch without denting or damaging the armrest. I slipped old credit cards under the edges of the switch and levered with a pair of small screwdrivers, slowly working around the switch.
Second hardest was pulling the protective barrier down, as it's in the low-50s here today. I used a razor blade to cut the thicker spots free as I tugged.
Once the regulator was installed it was necessary to plug the switch in to move the new regulator down a bit to reattach the window guide.
Here's what I found:
John in VA
BMW CCA member
National Capital Chapter
'74 tii "Juanita"
'85 535i "Goldie"
'86 535i "M-POSSTR"
'00 328i "Fern"
'03 530i "Titan"
My cables not broken, its attached at both ends, i just have no idea where it supposed to go or why it came off track, anyone have any pics of the way it should look? 04 330
corys530 sold
2006 x5 4.4
2004 330i
If you don't want to spend the $$$ to replace the whole regulator, it is often just the plastic regulator clips that are broken.
I sell them for most BMW applications here: RegulatorFix.com
They start at $7
We also have a bunch of tutorials on there, and are always glad to answer any installation or other questions by email: info@regulatorfix.com
hey all, new to the site and a new bmw owner..ok the wife is ...We bought a 2000 323i and with it came a few problems......I am having trouble seeing the pics on the diy at the beginning of this thread for the changing of the window regulator....anyone else seeing these pics ??? Our drivers side front window wont go down, but thankfully it is stuck in the up position....
1.sun roof shade is stuck,
2.bad shaking while turning to the right at about 45-60mph
3.passenger window problem
so much to do and so little time...looking forward to getting involved with you all here on the forum....any body have an idea what is wrong in the front end???
thanks lastchance
The OP's photos went away some time ago. Apparently a photo hosting issue. Would be great if he could get those back up via Photobucket, etc.
I used the Dorman brand of regulator on my E46. Lifetime warranty and a good price from amazon. Be sure you buy the correct regulator (front vs rear; left vs right; sedan vs coupe).
Last edited by WoLF; 08-23-2012 at 09:54 PM.
thanks aurelius for the response...got a mechanic/co=worker looking at the front end this afternoon.....thanks again....
larry
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