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Thread: ARP Main stud install questions

  1. #1
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    ARP Main stud install questions

    Ok, I put the studs in, and put the main caps on. I put all of the nuts and washers on and the nuts don't go down all the way. What I mean is that when the nuts are hand tight, there is about 3-4 threads on the nut that are not engaging. A co-worker of mine said that you have to set the depth of the studs. Now should I set the stud depth, using an allen key with the nuts and washers in place, to be the same height as the nut so that when the nuts are torqued down there are maybe one, one and a half, threads left above the nuts? That would ensure good thread engagement, but I am curious as to what people, with experience, have to say about this.

    Jon
    1990 BMW 329is 2 Door Alpineweiss II
    Fully built 2.9L Stroked M50
    My 2.9L M50 Build



  2. #2
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    Hm, on my ARP mains I put them all the way in with an allen wrench and the nuts threaded all the way on still.

    This was with a 1999 S52.
    -Kyle 1995 Custom Turbo M3 SOLD!

  3. #3
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    Hmmm, this is on an M50 motor. The box the studs came in say BMW M50/2 so I assume they are correct for my motor. I will do some checking on a few things.
    1990 BMW 329is 2 Door Alpineweiss II
    Fully built 2.9L Stroked M50
    My 2.9L M50 Build



  4. #4
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    i had the same problem. my machinist said to NOT LET THEM FLOAT.

    i ended up cutting down some old ti valves that i had floating around and used them to space the studs out of the block. there was still total thread engagement in the block, so no worries.
    This space for rent.

  5. #5
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    a bit off topic, yet related: whats the torque spec for these ARPs studs?
    E31 M73 Forever

  6. #6
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    the mains are spec'ed at 60 ft-lbs, when using the ARP MolyLube.

    bigugly: you just cut some valve stems to the size you needed to get the studs to where they needed to be?
    1990 BMW 329is 2 Door Alpineweiss II
    Fully built 2.9L Stroked M50
    My 2.9L M50 Build



  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigugly View Post
    i had the same problem. my machinist said to NOT LET THEM FLOAT.

    i ended up cutting down some old ti valves that i had floating around and used them to space the studs out of the block. there was still total thread engagement in the block, so no worries.
    Hahaha
    -Kyle 1995 Custom Turbo M3 SOLD!

  8. #8
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    97 Evil M3/4, 01 M5
    My builder recommended line boring when I told him I wanted him to install the ARP Main Studs
    M3 Sedan Club President #21

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jone30 View Post
    bigugly: you just cut some valve stems to the size you needed to get the studs to where they needed to be?

    yea, i needed to space them out somehow, so i used what was laying around at the shop. i think it ended up being around 3/4 of an inch

    Quote Originally Posted by BMuu View Post
    Hahaha


    ha ha ha what? i have ti valve crap all over the car. stud spacers, clutch stops and a couple of other places that no one has seen yet
    This space for rent.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jone30 View Post
    Hmmm, this is on an M50 motor. The box the studs came in say BMW M50/2 so I assume they are correct for my motor. I will do some checking on a few things.

    No worries its for all M50b25 and 52 is for the M3 engine same body!

  11. #11
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    '90 329is 2.9L M50,
    Why can't the studs be "floating" when the OEM main bolts, more than likely, don't bottom out in the holes when fully torqued?
    1990 BMW 329is 2 Door Alpineweiss II
    Fully built 2.9L Stroked M50
    My 2.9L M50 Build



  12. #12
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    cause thats not how studs work. sorry i dont have a better explination.
    This space for rent.

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