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Thread: Changed Rear Bearings in 1 hr! Write up!

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by hellrot325
    Is that a condition that does not allow you to correctly spell words backwards?
    Hellrot, I knew I couldn't fool you!

  2. #27
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    The pics aren't working.
    I just need to know what the proper puller tool looks like so that I can get the new bearing back into the hub assembly. The bearing puller I got from autozone will only connect to the slide hammer and can only work one way. So in order for it to work, I'd have to get the entire slide hammer underneath the car on the backside of the hub assembly. That just doesn't sound right.
    Can someone please link to the proper type of puller I should be using to get that new bearing in by pulling on the outer ring only?
    Thanks.

  3. #28
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    Pics should be up...

    http://www.paragonwest.com:8090/bmw_bearing/index.htm

    We didn't use a puller we just banged it in as you will see from the pics. Must make sure someone helps you applied pressure to the shaft from the back side as you are banging in the new bearing. As soon as you can thread the knut use it to press the bearing all the way in.
    Good luck!

  4. #29
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    Thanks for the pics.

    Okay, this bearing job sucks! But two things made it worse....

    First off, the wheel bearing I bought from AutoZone was too big. I didn't realize this until I screwed up my trailing arm trying to get it in. Never trust AutoZone. I took it back, they apoligized, gave me a refund and I got a new one from the dealership for $50. Not a bad price, but that one must've been defective because it fell apart before we even started installing it. Yep, the inner race just popped out revealing the ball bearings and wouldn't go back together.

    So, I had to order a new trailing arm. I'm getting one with the bearing already pressed and the drive flange installed. This way I don't have to deal with it anymore.

    Lesson learned. Should've just bought the bearing online for cheap and taken it to any independent shop and let them do the install. 2 hours for them is much better than umteen hours of mine and my poor dad's.

    So, let this serve as a warning to anyone thinking of doing this job. Carefully consider it. I would never attempt it again and I am pretty mechanically inclined and do most stuff myself. I'm also stricken with loads of bad luck, so that may be a factor for me too.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbit
    Pics should be up...

    http://www.paragonwest.com:8090/bmw_bearing/index.htm

    We didn't use a puller we just banged it in as you will see from the pics. Must make sure someone helps you applied pressure to the shaft from the back side as you are banging in the new bearing. As soon as you can thread the knut use it to press the bearing all the way in.
    Good luck!
    Im going to be attempting to change my right rear bearing this weekend. i have a few questions:
    1. secretaznman4u used a dremel to cut a "ring" out, in your DIY i didnt see any use of a dremel, and what is the "ring"
    2. secretaznman4u also mention you need a 3" washer to put inside the hub to press, i also dont understand.
    here is the steps im understanding:
    1. basically most of the suspension is removed, and axle bolts are loosened
    2. remove the hub with a puller
    3. remove clamp holding bearing, remove bearing
    4. put new bearing in, put in clip that holds the bearing.
    5. have someone apply pressure from the back, and press the hub and the bearing until axle thread appears, and put on axle nut and tighten until hub and bearing are pressed.
    is that about right. this should be written up like the DIY's on www.bimmerdiy.com

  6. #31
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    anyone? i plan on doing this on friday.

  7. #32
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    What are the bearing part numbers? (from FAG or SKF please)
    Glenn
    '98 328is - Arctic Silver

    =============================

  8. #33
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    yea pics would be great on this one

  9. #34
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    By ring he is probably refering to the inner part of the ring (called inner racing I think) that sticks to the hub as you pull the hub out with the puller.

    My brother used a torch the first time to remove this from the hub and screwed up the hub in the process. The second time he used his impact tool thing to rip it, break it off. You may be better of taking it somewhere and getting it pressed out.

    Your seem to be right on with the rest of your steps. Good luck!



    Quote Originally Posted by e36Silvr328i
    Im going to be attempting to change my right rear bearing this weekend. i have a few questions:
    1. secretaznman4u used a dremel to cut a "ring" out, in your DIY i didnt see any use of a dremel, and what is the "ring"
    2. secretaznman4u also mention you need a 3" washer to put inside the hub to press, i also dont understand.
    here is the steps im understanding:
    1. basically most of the suspension is removed, and axle bolts are loosened
    2. remove the hub with a puller
    3. remove clamp holding bearing, remove bearing
    4. put new bearing in, put in clip that holds the bearing.
    5. have someone apply pressure from the back, and press the hub and the bearing until axle thread appears, and put on axle nut and tighten until hub and bearing are pressed.
    is that about right. this should be written up like the DIY's on www.bimmerdiy.com

  10. #35
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    the part # is 33 41 1 468 747 from fag. im about to do my right rear. ive done both my rears two years ago. and now im doin it again. i gota catch the right rear while its goin bad before it messes up the other side. its a hell of a job. the hardest ive ever done in my bmw.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by laocoholic
    the part # is 33 41 1 468 747 from fag. im about to do my right rear. ive done both my rears two years ago. and now im doin it again. i gota catch the right rear while its goin bad before it messes up the other side. its a hell of a job. the hardest ive ever done in my bmw.
    I mean the actual FAG part number - it would be like a 4 or 5 digit number with some letters after it. I used to work for a major bearing distributor and can get a deal. Thanks.
    Glenn
    '98 328is - Arctic Silver

    =============================

  12. #37
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    Rear Bearing Replacement

    A few points about this job. First of all it is a bitch. I did this in 100 degree heat and it was for the typical right rear bear on a ti with 120K miles. I had the bearing tool and even with the tool it took me most of the day to do it right the first time. I had to clean parts etc and yes the inner bearing race will separate from the bearing when you pull the shaft off. I had to use an oz-ac torch and still use a dremel to get it off the shaft.
    The force I had to use to break the shaft loose and the bearing was incredible. I am 6 ft and 220 and work out and even with an 18" breaker bar it took all the strenght I had so don't expect this ting to pop off easy.

    SAM used a dremel to cut the old bearing apart. I could not do this because I would have cut the trailing arm too a little and I had the bearing tool which pushes the bearing out with significant force required.

    Once I had the shaft out and the bearing out doing the install was easy as I was able to use the bearing tool to press the bearing in then the shaft.

    I was stupid and followed the directions of bearing tool which says you can use the backing plate with drum brakes installed. No way, bent the backing plate and had to restraighten it.

    Trust me unless you have the right tools you will beat hell out of you and your car and still not get the bearing out.
    I think my situation was worsened because the bearing was really shot and this may have agrivated the removal.

    Good luck with doing the removal and be sure to take your time and think things through as I found ways to use this bearing tool that were not in their instuctions which were mostly useless.

    I planned to take pics but had no one to shoot them and was so beat I just didn't. Glad someone did for you guys.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn 328is View Post
    I mean the actual FAG part number - it would be like a 4 or 5 digit number with some letters after it. I used to work for a major bearing distributor and can get a deal. Thanks.
    FAG# 545495AD


    can do a cross ref# check at:

    http://www.fag.com/content.fag.de/en...e_database.jsp

    just look up your wheel bearing at RealOEM.com, put that number in the part# field, choose "Customer number (OEM)", then at the bottom choose "BMW" under "company" and whalla! You have your cross ref. #
    I have new FAG bearings BTW.. they are that number.



    Looks like Harbor Freight has this for a bearing puller tool??:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92884


    and this is their tool to whack it back in?:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92387


    The slide hammer I can rent for free at the local parts store, but those tools above I cannot find to rent

    It's almost worth having a shop do it since I'd prolly not use these special tools for much else in the future.

  14. #39
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    I'm coming down the home stretch of this project. I FINALLY got all traces of the old bearing out of the Trailing Arm. In all honesty, I think that a distinct difference is apparent between the Passenger Side Rear Bearing Svc and the Drivers Side Rear Bearing Svc. Naturally, I'm doing the Driver's Side and some extra components make access most unsavory. The Muffler makes axle removal mucho ugly. Also, it should be mentioned that once a predominance of the old bearing has been removed (inner halves(2) + bearings) you're left with the entire outter bearing race/shell STUCK in the Trailing Arm. Cutting this out with a dremel was nearly impossible. I ended up combining one of the shoes in Bearing Puller & the Impact Slide Hammer and banging the old race out. I'll show wome pictures shortly.

    I really think some details and change in verbage within the original post could relieve some confusion.

  15. #40
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    Anyone still have the pictures saved/hosted for this DIY?
    SOLD -A dozen ///M3s of all shapes

  16. #41
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    Here's the link:

    http://www.paragonwest.com:8090/bmw_bearing/index.htm

    Let me know if it's not working for you. My web server is flaky at times.

    -me

  17. #42
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    Awesome. I saw the link (or a similar one) posted earlier, but it came up as object not found. This most recent one works....Thanks!
    SOLD -A dozen ///M3s of all shapes

  18. #43
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    Steven, is there any way you can get in contact with me? What is going on?

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by fritzintn View Post
    Awesome. I saw the link (or a similar one) posted earlier, but it came up as object not found. This most recent one works....Thanks!
    Did you attempt this job yet, Steven? If so, how'd it go?

  20. #45
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    Can you make a picture book? I cant read over 100 words in one day...

    THANKS!!

    -Serge

  21. #46
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    Although an old thread, this is a great write up! I'm going to add this to our site of technical articles.

  22. #47
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    Still ...no pics...........ooh well

  23. #48
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    My home server crashed and burned I'm in the process of setting up a new one. So far, I have tried installing Win server 2003 three trimes and I can't seem to get video..rrgh! I'll post the pics as soon as I can. If this doesn't work, I'll settle for win2000 server.

    Thanks-Alex

  24. #49
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    Cool, I need to do my rear left side. Tried to do the right rear, but ended up taking the trailing arm assembly to a shop and they still charged me $200 to press out the old bearing and install the new one. That was with me providing the bearing.

  25. #50
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    Question Good Wheel Bearing?

    I have a 1996 318is. Need to change the rear wheel bearings. need to know which to buy. they range from 80 to 120. Help!

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