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Thread: Accessing spark plugs for spark plug change (I6)

  1. #1
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    Accessing spark plugs for spark plug change (I6)

    *One thing both of these write-ups fail to mention is that the Oil Cap should be replaced immediately after taking the engine cover off to prevent objects (bolts, debri, etc.) from falling into the engine!*

    Accessing spark plugs
    (archive link: http://www.bimmer.org/5series/messages/archive/msgsy2000w43/91085.html)





    Posted by DHoang on October 26, 2000 at 01:31:37:
    • (posted from: dialup-64.154.149.11.austin1.level3.net (64.154.149.11))
    For anyone who's interested in seeing what's underneath the cover of the M52 motor, here's a shot of my motor being unwrapped to access the spark plugs.

    1) Pop out two cover plates (1" dia or so) w/ flathead screwdriver
    2) unscrew two nuts holding cover onto engine block
    3) remove oil fill cap and then remove the plastic cover.
    4) Remove hex bolt securing each "BREMI" plug to engine. (See arrows).
    5) Remove spark plug.


    Note: "Bremi" plug does not fit tightly at all onto spark plug tip. It slides over spark plug w/out any tension or clipping whatsoever against the spark plug. Screwing on the bolt and diameter of plug collar maintains proper alignment.
    Quote Originally Posted by E39M5 View Post
    Spark Plug DIY for E39 98 528
    I did my sparkplugs today and boy am I sure glad I did them.
    First off this is for a 98 528. Might be useful to someone. First what I did was I got the sparkplugs at AutoZone. I went with what my owner’s manual said. My car had 4 prong NKG in there and my new plugs are 2 prong BOSCH. I like BOSCH better so that’s why they went in there.
    Proper Steps
    1. Get New Plugs. Either NGK or BOSCH: 2 or 4 Prong.
    2. Have some basic tools ready. A sparkplug socket is a must to make life easy.
    3. Open driver side door and pull the hood release latch under the steering wheel.
    4. Use a flat head screw driver to pry out the covers to get to the bolts so you can take off the engine cover. This is where a 10mm comes in handy.
    5. Remove engine cover and oil cap and place to the side.
    6. Unclip part next to sparkplugs and unbolt the 12 bolts that hold the 6 sparkplugs in place. Two for each sparkplug.
    7. Replace old ones with new ones but make sure to put anti-seize on each new plug and then insert them back in place
    8. Double check plugs are torqued at 21 lb/ft.
    9. Place all bolts back in proper places and put the engine cover back on and bolt it in place and you're done.
    First thing

    Second

    Part 3

    Step 4

    Step 5

    Step 6

    OLD VS. NEW

    Old sparkplugs
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 08-18-2009 at 05:13 PM.

  2. #2
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    thanks i am planning to do mine this evening.

  3. #3
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    You don't need to take off the cover on the top but great write up. Finally someone did this for i6

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by RXWLLMSS View Post
    You don't need to take off the cover on the top but great write up. Finally someone did this for i6
    I take it from your post that the cover is two seperate pieces and you only need to take off the side cover, correct?

  5. #5
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    Removing the top cover might make it easier to remove the side cover should access be limited. Even though it nay not be necessary.

    These pictures DO however wonderfully show the fuel rail and injectors. Along with a good overview of the engine without covers. Which is something I do appreciate.

  6. #6
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    Do i understand correctly ? The way to know if the spark plugs are due is when the strips around the ceramic of the plug fades away?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsam View Post
    Do i understand correctly ? The way to know if the spark plugs are due is when the strips around the ceramic of the plug fades away?
    hasm,

    Welcome to Bimmerforums.

    I've never heard that one before, but it doesn't mean that there isn't some merrit to that method. Spark plug manufacturers would like us to believe that the plugs will last approx. 100k miles, but from what I understand, in most cases they will need to be replaced sooner.
    I'm sure someone with more experience will be able to give you a better answer.

  8. #8
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    Just followed this DIY, nice.

    Half an hour project. I had minor issues with spark plug #1, the one closest to the firewall. Limited space to access it. I couldn't get my regular 3/8" ratchet with extensions in it, had to improvise with a 1/4" ratchet with a few short extensions and a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter for the spark plug socket.

    All in all not bad. Used OEM NGK spark plugs. The old ones had 30K on them, were also NGK OEM and looked like they could go another 20K.

  9. #9
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    According to Bentley, the 4 prong NGKs did not come stock on pre 99' models but could be retrofitted. These are high powered plugs with 100K mile service life. The factory spec 2 prong plugs should last about 50K miles or less but are less than 1/2 the price of the 4 prong NGKs.
    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

  10. #10
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    Mine looks different

    I have a 97 540i 8 cylinder and my engine looks totally different. THe cover I have on it pops off to expose the valve covers. But the valve covers are off to the side. with what looks like air hoses in the middle. Problem is there is a plastic box ontop of the valve covers. Cant see the plugs anywhere.

    ANy ideas?

  11. #11
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    Great Post

    I just did my '01 530, exact walk-thru as posted. Also same juggling act with 1/4" & adapters as etcetera on #1 plug.

  12. #12
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    Just some notes:

    • Do this with the ENGINE COLD
    • Use a torque wrench and torque down properly!
    • DO NOT use anti-seize
    • Those Bosch plugs are incorrect. OEM are either the NGK 4 prong or Bosch 4 prong... look up the # on RealOEM

  13. #13
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    on a side note DO NOT use platinum plugs, it seems like a good idea because their more expensive but our bimmer motors dont like them

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by joako View Post
    Just some notes:

    • DO NOT use anti-seize
    Why?

  15. #15
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    1) BMW says not to use it
    2) Working on a cold engine and taking care with the new spark plugs and torquing them down properly you will not need it nor will it help anything
    3) It increases the electrical resistance between the cylinder head and spark plug -- which is not good since that is the grounding path.

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