*One thing both of these write-ups fail to mention is that the Oil Cap should be replaced immediately after taking the engine cover off to prevent objects (bolts, debri, etc.) from falling into the engine!*
Accessing spark plugs
(archive link: http://www.bimmer.org/5series/messages/archive/msgsy2000w43/91085.html)
Posted by DHoang on October 26, 2000 at 01:31:37:
For anyone who's interested in seeing what's underneath the cover of the M52 motor, here's a shot of my motor being unwrapped to access the spark plugs.
- (posted from: dialup-64.154.149.11.austin1.level3.net (64.154.149.11))
1) Pop out two cover plates (1" dia or so) w/ flathead screwdriver
2) unscrew two nuts holding cover onto engine block
3) remove oil fill cap and then remove the plastic cover.
4) Remove hex bolt securing each "BREMI" plug to engine. (See arrows).
5) Remove spark plug.
Note: "Bremi" plug does not fit tightly at all onto spark plug tip. It slides over spark plug w/out any tension or clipping whatsoever against the spark plug. Screwing on the bolt and diameter of plug collar maintains proper alignment.
Last edited by jamesdc4; 08-18-2009 at 05:13 PM.
thanks i am planning to do mine this evening.
You don't need to take off the cover on the top but great write up. Finally someone did this for i6
Removing the top cover might make it easier to remove the side cover should access be limited. Even though it nay not be necessary.
These pictures DO however wonderfully show the fuel rail and injectors. Along with a good overview of the engine without covers. Which is something I do appreciate.
Do i understand correctly ? The way to know if the spark plugs are due is when the strips around the ceramic of the plug fades away?
hasm,
Welcome to Bimmerforums.
I've never heard that one before, but it doesn't mean that there isn't some merrit to that method. Spark plug manufacturers would like us to believe that the plugs will last approx. 100k miles, but from what I understand, in most cases they will need to be replaced sooner.
I'm sure someone with more experience will be able to give you a better answer.
Just followed this DIY, nice.
Half an hour project. I had minor issues with spark plug #1, the one closest to the firewall. Limited space to access it. I couldn't get my regular 3/8" ratchet with extensions in it, had to improvise with a 1/4" ratchet with a few short extensions and a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter for the spark plug socket.
All in all not bad. Used OEM NGK spark plugs. The old ones had 30K on them, were also NGK OEM and looked like they could go another 20K.
According to Bentley, the 4 prong NGKs did not come stock on pre 99' models but could be retrofitted. These are high powered plugs with 100K mile service life. The factory spec 2 prong plugs should last about 50K miles or less but are less than 1/2 the price of the 4 prong NGKs.
"I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
I have a 97 540i 8 cylinder and my engine looks totally different. THe cover I have on it pops off to expose the valve covers. But the valve covers are off to the side. with what looks like air hoses in the middle. Problem is there is a plastic box ontop of the valve covers. Cant see the plugs anywhere.
ANy ideas?
I just did my '01 530, exact walk-thru as posted. Also same juggling act with 1/4" & adapters as etcetera on #1 plug.
Just some notes:
- Do this with the ENGINE COLD
- Use a torque wrench and torque down properly!
- DO NOT use anti-seize
- Those Bosch plugs are incorrect. OEM are either the NGK 4 prong or Bosch 4 prong... look up the # on RealOEM
on a side note DO NOT use platinum plugs, it seems like a good idea because their more expensive but our bimmer motors dont like them
1) BMW says not to use it
2) Working on a cold engine and taking care with the new spark plugs and torquing them down properly you will not need it nor will it help anything
3) It increases the electrical resistance between the cylinder head and spark plug -- which is not good since that is the grounding path.
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