I think I have a stripped oil drain plug...

[dson95]

I've had my e39 for about a year. I had the oil changed several months back at a shop. I decided I'd do the change myself this time. After removing the plastic shroud (which I noticed had some wet oil), I began to remove the oil drain plug. As I begin to loosen the bolt, I noticed it kept turning, but didn't descend like it's loosening.

I'm thinking that during the last oil change, they did not replace the washer, overtightened the plug and stripped (I hope) the plug and not the pan.

Here's where I need your advice-how do I get the plug out? Short of getting an extractor to remove the oil topside and then removing the entire pan, what other suggestions might you have to get the plug out without doing damage to the pan? I already have a new plug and washer.

[McCandless]

You should be able to grab the head of the plug with a set of needle nose ViseGrips. Maintain pressure outward by pulling on the handles and turn counterclockwise. IMHO more drain plugs and/or their mating pan threads have been stripped by these quickie oil change places than ANY other reason. All the more reason to DIY things like this.

[thejlevie]

Sometimes you can get a stripped plug out by grabbing the plug with vice grips and turning while pulling on the vice grips. If that doesn't work the plug will have to be drilled out.

In either case the odds are that a HeliCoil or Timsert is going to be required to repair the threads in the pan. In a fight between a steel plug and aluminum pan threads, the plug will win almost every time. I would not hesitate to install an insert into the pan with it still on the car. But if I had to drill out the plug I think I'd want the pan out where I could get to the other side of the plug.

As you've guessed, the cause of this is over tightening. The plug should always be re-installed with a torque wrench set for 18ft-lb. That's a lot less torque than you'd think would be needed.

[Qsilver7]

Actually, the pan will more than likely be okay if you have a BMW oil pan bolt. Those bolts are made with threads that are softer than the pan's and they will strip while the pan's threads will be okay.

In fact, the bolt is hollow on the inside...and if the the head breaks of while trying to remove it (the vice grips tip referred to earlier is a good one) don't worry...again that is part of the bolt's design...and why the center is hollow.

[Jim530i]

Happened to me. Examine the bolt closely and use a vise grip or anything that ca grip the hollow part of the inside and turn it carefully. The bolt will come right out.

I've heard that its a common thing to happen on the e39, so I always have a couple of these oil pan bolts I've purchased from BMW to replace in case this happens....

Don't sweat it, its gonna be fine. Most than likely its only the bolt that has sustained damage and needs replacing....

[Qsilver7]

The design of the BMW bolt (softer threads than the pan) is the reason that you should really consider replacing this bolt with another one from BMW. A bolt is a lot cheaper to replace than the oil pan.

And remember not to overtighten the bolt or remind whoever is doing your oil change to not overtighten it...and remember to get a new CRUSH washer (#3 in diagram below), too.

get #2 & #3: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...57&hg=11&fg=10

[lexkwizit]

Happened to me on my car and my sister's car when changing the oil. bolt broke and then spins and spins. Here's what i did to remove, apply some pressure of the part the spins by sticking a flat head screwdriver under the "head" and slowly guide it out. The broken piece will still be in the hole, get a wide enough flat head screwdriver and turn gently to get it out...the piece that's left inside has a hole so you can get the screwdriver inside the hole and turn it. Either that or a bolt extractor, make sure you take your time. Once you get it out, get a replacement from the Dealer, cost about 4 bucks and worth every penny, its harder, more sturdy and you can take it back off with either a ratchet or an allen wrench.

[Shardul]

get a replacement from the Dealer, cost about 4 bucks and worth every penny, its harder, more sturdy and you can take it back off with either a ratchet or an allen wrench.

provided the threads are not stripped on the oil pan.

[SleekBMW]

i actually just bought that magnetic one from ebay, its been 3000 miles i dont know how it works, i will change the oil in another 4000 miles.

quick Q, if your oil pan has oil on it, does that mean its time to replace the seals?

[Shardul]

i actually just bought that magnetic one from ebay, its been 3000 miles i dont know how it works, i will change the oil in another 4000 miles.

quick Q, if your oil pan has oil on it, does that mean its time to replace the seals?

yes if it has oil on it, then there means there is an oil leak. most probably it may be the oil pan gasket. it is about a $ 250-300 job at an indy.

all the magnetic plus does is if there is metal in the oil it will attract the metal particles. so it doesnot damage the engine. i dont know how well they work. on the other hand if there is metal in the oil then you will be in for some major engine repair. please post your findings when you do the oil change.

[jnyost]

I wouldn't use the one from ebay. You don't need the magnetic one. Use the OEM BMW one so you have little chance of damaging your oil pan. My last car was cross threaded when I got it. I removed the old plug, ran down to BMW to buy a new one, and inserted the new one. My new plug threaded in real easy. It didn't mess up my pan at all.

Jared

[SleekBMW]

yes if it has oil on it, then there means there is an oil leak. most probably it may be the oil pan gasket. it is about a $ 250-300 job at an indy.

all the magnetic plus does is if there is metal in the oil it will attract the metal particles. so it doesnot damage the engine. i dont know how well they work. on the other hand if there is metal in the oil then you will be in for some major engine repair. please post your findings when you do the oil change.

is it possible to do it yourself during an oil change? im assuming couple bolts, new seal and rebolt.

I wouldn't use the one from ebay. You don't need the magnetic one. Use the OEM BMW one so you have little chance of damaging your oil pan. My last car was cross threaded when I got it. I removed the old plug, ran down to BMW to buy a new one, and inserted the new one. My new plug threaded in real easy. It didn't mess up my pan at all.

Jared

actually the ebay one fit perfectly, lets hope it doesnt damage anything!

[jnyost]

is it possible to do it yourself during an oil change? im assuming couple bolts, new seal and rebolt.




actually the ebay one fit perfectly, lets hope it doesnt damage anything!

What I mean is that it won't give like the OEM one if you over tighten. You'll strip your pan.

[SleekBMW]

What I mean is that it won't give like the OEM one if you over tighten. You'll strip your pan.

oh ok

lets hope it doesnt do that!

[supark]

yes if it has oil on it, then there means there is an oil leak. most probably it may be the oil pan gasket. it is about a $ 250-300 job at an indy.

fyi - 540i oil pan gasket replacement is extremely easy to do, the majority of the time replacing is it waiting for the block to stop dripping oil. I6 engines require removal of the subframe so it's a fair bit more work intensive.

also - it's not uncommon for valve cover gaskets to drip down towards the oil pan. Best bet is to get some good degreaser and thoroughly clean oil from the block to check the source.

[SleekBMW]

fyi - 540i oil pan gasket replacement is extremely easy to do, the majority of the time replacing is it waiting for the block to stop dripping oil. I6 engines require removal of the subframe so it's a fair bit more work intensive.

also - it's not uncommon for valve cover gaskets to drip down towards the oil pan. Best bet is to get some good degreaser and thoroughly clean oil from the block to check the source.

theres no fair priced indys in chicago, there should be a thread about it.

next time il look under there, BMW didnt say anything to me though.

[Shardul]

yes on the I6 the front subframe has to be dropped, in order to change the oil pan gasket. IMO just let an indy do it.

[Tahoe M3]

I had the same problem. I was worried about the pan being stripped but it was just the plug. Vise-grips didn't work for me. I had to slide a flat blade screwdriver between the head of the plug and the pan to pry the plug down enough for the remaining plug threads to catch. I kept the pressure on it most of the way out and replaced the plug with a new, one after draining the oil, that worked perfectly.

[Jo@EuroDyne]

also use that white tape to seal gas lines..wrap around the plug, works like a charm! =)