Help needed - key cylinder problems

[1984]

OK, so right now my car is at the top of a winding mountain road and when I go to start it up, the key goes directly from off to start without feeling like it's engaging anything. I've read about problems where the key just keeps spinning, but that's not what mine is doing. I can't even feel the spring that normally pushes it back from start to ON. I tried pushing a paper clip into the little hole next to the key cylinder but that prevents the key from turning altogether. The steering lock is engaged and also unaffected by key position.

I have a tow truck on the way, but I'd really rather be able to get it started so I can drive it back to my house.

Any suggestions? Anything at all would be helpful.

[nrgee1]

have you tried turning the steering wheel from left to right with some amount of pressure while turning the key?? you know like when it's locked and you can't turn the key unless you pull it real hard??? dunno just want to support u I guess ! good luck

[Tefal]

Have u tryed furiously wiggling the steering wheel while turning the key back and forth

edit(shouldn't have gone upstairs while typing!)

[1984]

And now for an update:

I got the car towed home last night and I'm going to try and fix the problem myself. I have managed to pop the key cylinder out with a paperclip, and I guess now I have to determine exactly what the problem is. Turning the key in the cylinder while holding the metal part of the key cylinder will spin the tab in the rear of the cylinder, but the key appears to have the normal limits of rotation (position zero to position 3) This appears to engage a slot in the switch in the steering column. Turning this switch with a screwdriver in the central slot makes the switch retreat back into the column slightly until you reach a half turn, at which point it returns to it's original position. Not knowing exactly how these parts are supposed to behave, it's difficult for me to tell which one is causing the problem. Can anyone comment on how these parts are supposed to interact? Does the switch or the key cylinder contain the detents you feel for the different positions when you turn the key?

Thanks again

[1984]

I figured it out. After continuing to turn the switch in the column I started to see the delrin/nylon looking "ratchet ring" for lack of a better term, started to work loose. Eventually, it came out completely, and with it the metal piece with the slot for the boss on the key cylinder. Looking at the back of it and at the post further inside the switch it appears to have simply broken the post that connects it. It also looks as if there was a void in the casting in the thinnest part of the switch connection, causing the failure. I'll post pictures in a few hours. This also means I might be able to simply JB weld the piece back together at no cost, and perhaps more importantly, without taking the steering column apart.

Im so happy right now.

[1984]

Here's the part that broke.



On realoem.com it looks like they don't sell this part separately but only as part of the larger steering lock assembly. If anyone is parting out their car I'd like to see if I could get one of these out.

[1984]

Another update.

I currently have the above part clamped together with some JB-Weld to see if that's strong enough. Fortunately, there is a flat on the shaft so I don't have to guess about the orientation. If this doesn't work out I guess I'm just back to square one.

In the meantime, I am able to start the car with a screwdriver jammed into the back of the ignition switch, but this does not disengage the steering lock. I guess the above part is needed in order to push the steering lock out of the way. I'll attempt to refit the repaired part tomorrow and hopefully it will be as good as new, and my to-do list for the car will be only as long as it was before this started. Tomorrow: Thermostat, coolant flush, belts, diff. oil, headlight.

[nrgee1]

with your JB-Weld can't you also drive a metal screw at the bottom of the round piece that would go throught the round part that is broken (well centered) and thought the long piece. I would JB weld it and then drill though it and metal screw or take an auto drill screw. until you can find a replacement part at least.

[jose sanchez]

ok, i have litle english
i think my switch broke a few hours a go,
in the last weeks im having this problem, the key was spinning and after few turns 'clic' and my car runs and today evening when i arrives home SURPRICE it dont turn off the car and spining everywhere and the key pops out on any position with the car runing(i turn of the car direct by the ignition plug).my car switch dont have the normal limits of rotation (position zero to position 3) its spinning all the way, and i cant find the point that 1984 say for take a part the cilinder WHAT CAN I DO???

im fan of DIY

[nrgee1]

I think the cylinder is doomed. you'll need to change it.

[jose sanchez]

thanks nrgee1 but im shure its doomed..
if i cant find the acc point . i need to remove all the stuff?
i need to broke something or drill??

[ArcticGrey94]

You should at least check w/ the dealer on that part . Props to RealOEM they've been a big help to me. The only way to be really sure you don't have to spend an aaaL for an entire assembly of OEM parts is to check w/ the boss. You'd be surprised. Sometimes they make changes at the the factory regarding what's available in chunks or itty bitty pieces that the outside vendors may not be aware of right away. just my thoughts...

[jose sanchez]

i read all the think in other treat but thanks for all

[aaronski]

Hi,

Did you ever get this part? Mine just broke in exactly the same way.

Thanks,
Aaronski

[coconutmnky]

Hi,

Did you ever get this part? Mine just broke in exactly the same way.

Thanks,
Aaronski

Chances are OP probably won't read this thread, so yeah, you just had to resurrect an old thread : /



Anywayz, either special order the part, get it welded back together, or replace the whole assembly.

[jxpresto]

Chances are OP probably won't read this thread, so yeah, you just had to resurrect an old thread : /



Anywayz, either special order the part, get it welded back together, or replace the whole assembly.

Sorry to resurrect this thread x2, but is there a way to special order this part? Mine broke a few weeks back, JB welded it back together, and it broke last night. I don't really want to drop ~$130 on the whole assembly if I don't have to. Thanks for any help!

[kapitaljin]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=va44_1Qyd-Q[/ame]

my vid what the previous owner did to the ignition system.

[jxpresto]

interesting concept, any ideas on how he did it?

[flyfishvt]

You can get a whole used ignition switch assembly on Ebay for about $50. I found this out because the one in my car broke on the PO and I figured I could just get the shaft and I'd be all set. I ended up replacing the entire assembly because the PO messed up the red plastic ignition switch on the end of that shaft. Plus it was my first BMW and I didn't know any better. The switch assembly has three parts that you can purchase seperately. The tumbler, the actual red plastic switch and the housing that includes the shaft that broke. All three are about $300. If your tumbler is still good you can reuse it and save the cost of having one keyed to your original key. If you're very careful with the screw driver you can even save the red switch part. The main housing is a bear to get off. Check ebay or a junk yard and reuse your tumbler. You really shouldn't drive it like it is because of the column lock. I used two screw drivers to get around it but one of them always fell out. Its dangerous to say the least because you wont be able to turn the wheel even to pull of the side of the road.

[jxpresto]

I'm almost hesitant to buy one used since this part seems to fail often. If I buy the lock housing (i.e. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...on%20Switch%20 ) will this include the shaft pictured above? Hard to tell from the pics / description.

[flyfishvt]

Yes it will. The housing attaches to the steering column. The plastic switch that actually makes all the electic conections mounts to one side of the housing and the tumbler slides into the other side of the housing. The switch part has a connector right behind the steering column so that part is pretty easy to change.