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Thread: How to DIY rebuild a Eaton supercharger?

  1. #1
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    How to DIY rebuild a Eaton supercharger?

    Hi, I need to rebuild a eaton M62 supercharger, because the rotors are slightly hitting the case. I need to know more about bearings, couplers and similar things. If you have a good picture of eaton supercharger internals, please post it.
    And I want to know when the rotors REALLY NEED to be changed. In my rotors there are only a few of scratches, but nothing more.
    The problems that I have are:
    - a little rotor play when moving pulley by hand;
    - the rotors are hitting sometimes the case in bottom and rear, where there is the inlet.
    The supercharger was working fine 6 months ago, then it was stored in my garage, but never used in last months.

    I want to change all bad parts minus rotors assembly, case, pulley and shaft, that I can see they are good.
    This is my supercharger:


    UPDATE: I've found these parts
    on ebay:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-38...QQcmdZViewItem


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eaton...QQcmdZViewItem

    I need to know what I need... I think the coupler for sure, but then...

    EDIT:
    Common problems for Eaton M-Series superchargers:
    Leaking seal: Examine the outside of the snout for oil spots. Oil will sling off the back of the supercharger pulley when the seal is damaged and failing because of normal age and wear or excessive boost. Consider upgrading to a Premium Viton double-lip seal and Rotor Clip Snap-ring for a longer seal life. Our Premium Services & Products include this seal.

    Bad bearings: Remove the supercharger belt and start the vehicle. The vehicle will run on the bypass valve without the supercharger. Is the noise in question is still there? If yes, then it is not coming from the supercharger. If the noise is eliminated by the belt-removal test, the supercharger bearings should be replaced immediately. The car can be driven without the supercharger belt because the bypass valve allows a reduced air stream through to the cylinders. If the supercharger is damaged, temporary deletion of the supercharger will reduce further damage to the supercharger until it can be rebuilt.

    Scuffing of the Rotors or the End Plate: This indicates a worn bearing. The ball bearings in the front bearing plate are the only bearings controlling back and forth movement. When the supercharger is new, it starts with a .003 backlash in the rotors. So when they wear a little and have a .007 backlash, the rotors start to scuff the back of the front bearing plate. Replace with re-manufactured Rotor Assembly.

    Coating Peeling or Chipping Off: As the bearings wear, they start to allow a back and forth movement in the rotors. This changes the timing of the rotors, allowing the flutes to scuff and damage each other. Replace with a re-manufactured Rotor Assembly. If allowed to go on for too long, this linear movement ruins the rotors beyond economical repair.

    Worn Coupler (a.k.a. Universal): Supercharger rattles. To test, remove belt and move the supercharger pulley back and forth by hand. If it has backlash, replace coupler.

    Scratches on the outer edge of rotors: How can you tell the rotor rear needle bearings need to be replaced? Look for scratched ends on the rotors. When the rear needle bearings need to be replaced, the outer edge of the rotor will have scratches from contacting the case. This happens because the rear needle bearings are allowing too much rotor radial movement. The needle bearings only control radial movement.

    Scratched Rotor Bearing Plate: How can you tell the ball bearings in the rotor bearing plate need to be replaced? Look for a scratched rotor bearing plate. The bearings in the rotor bearing plate need to be replaced when the rotors are putting scratches in the rotor bearing plate’s sealing surface.


    DIY LINKS with pics:
    - How to rebuild an Eaton snout (M90,but can applied to others)
    - How to replace an M90 snout coupler
    - eaton supercharger coupler replacement
    - SUPERCHARGER SNOUT REBUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
    - Eaton M90 Supercharger Rebuild and Information
    Last edited by nuvola rossa; 07-27-2007 at 11:51 AM.

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    sorry kinda off topic... what rims are those? size? ok back on topic...


    Custom Twin Charge build... tuned by VIC@SIASTUNING 11psi 400whp 400ftlb with a slipping clutch, high boost

    GTK-650 (.7 comp and .68 or .81 turbines),Eaton M62 (clutched S/C), Custom 11" Crank Pulley ,Cometic 0.14" HG, Walbro255, TEC3r, Tial 50mm BOV, Tial 44mm Wastegate, SP Alcohol injection Stg1, UUC LTWFW stg2, spec performance organic clutch, Siemens 72lb injectors, 24x12x4 FMIC, 3" intercooler pipings, s54 oil filter housing,666 Topmount manifold, and oil cooler kit.

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    Those wheels remind me of the Alpina B7

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    cool

    ...When you get a blackeye from trying to change the shift knob.

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    wheels are 18inch breyton magic racing. now back on topic!

  6. #6
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    who knows if BMW sells supercharger oil for MINI Cooper S? And Mercedes Benz sell supercharger oil?
    Last edited by nuvola rossa; 07-27-2007 at 12:10 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuvola rossa View Post
    who knows if BMW sells supercharger oil for MINI Cooper S? And Mercedes Benz sell supercharger oil?
    You have the appropriate oil in the picture. All Eaton m62's use the same type. GM used the same oil for both the m62 and m90 chargers on OEM applications. Do you not have in hand what's in the pics? I assumed that was already purchased.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 325icintn View Post
    You have the appropriate oil in the picture. All Eaton m62's use the same type. GM used the same oil for both the m62 and m90 chargers on OEM applications. Do you not have in hand what's in the pics? I assumed that was already purchased.
    I don't have that parts... I'm searching where I can buy them in Europe... So I asked for MB and MINI because we don't have many GM dealers here...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuvola rossa View Post
    ... I asked for MB and MINI because we don't have many GM dealers here...
    One more reason for me to move to Europe. US makes up for it in the petrol prices.

    I would assume that MB or BMW sells Eaton appropriate oil, at least as a special order. Don't know for sure.

    See if you can find an Italian forum for the old La Forza trucks. They used eaton sc's on 5.0 litre Ford v-8's and probably have an Italian source.

    Otherwise, just use espresso which runs everything else in Italy.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 325icintn View Post
    See if you can find an Italian forum for the old La Forza trucks. They used eaton sc's on 5.0 litre Ford v-8's and probably have an Italian source.

    Otherwise, just use espresso which runs everything else in Italy.
    It's not first time that I buy things from US, so I think that I will buy it from there. I bought a entire interior (seats + panels) of E36 M3 from USA, so no problem for shipment Thank you

  11. #11
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    As far as parts I'd replace the snout and needle bearings, coupler, and oil. Any eaton SC oil will work so you may be able to get the oil from BMW, Jag, or MBZ. I was told to use locktite 518 and 515 to seal the case and snout. 20 ft lbs on all bolts and 40 ft lbs for the pulley nut.

  12. #12
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    Here are pics of rotors: I'm sure that one is going too backwards, so the rear needle bearings are out and the coupler too.
    click on pics for zoom



    true?

    other than that the rotor coating is good and no scratches on lobes.

  13. #13
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    definitely a bad needle bearings when the edge of the lobe hits the case. I don’t think I would use that SC because that rotor is in pretty bad shape. Maybe a professional can repair it.
    Last edited by black318i; 08-04-2007 at 12:16 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by black318i View Post
    definitely a bad needle bearings when the edge of the lobe hits the case. I don’t think I would use that SC because that rotor is in pretty bad shape. Maybe a professional can repair it.
    In reality is not bad grinded as picture... maybe with good bearings and good coupler, that will not be a problem. Maybe it will leak a bit of boost... we will see later!

  15. #15
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    I have ordered a rebuild kit on Ebay for the M62/M90 supercharger.
    There was a instrution manual included and it was easy to do.

    I had ordered it also at a company in the US but it was inclusive shipment costs less than 100 euro and delivered within 1 week.
    In europa I have only found official shops and they ask much more for such a rebuild kit.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by geiz View Post
    I have ordered a rebuild kit on Ebay for the M62/M90 supercharger.
    There was a instrution manual included and it was easy to do.

    I had ordered it also at a company in the US but it was inclusive shipment costs less than 100 euro and delivered within 1 week.
    In europa I have only found official shops and they ask much more for such a rebuild kit.
    hi,

    have you got the rebuild kit yet? i ask as i assume you know the m62 in the picture u posted does not have a coupler! it is driven with gears..
    i have tried to post a link to a photo but i am not allowed

    maybe this works instead? hxxp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/fluff34567/abc/lexus/DSC00303.jpg

    i am wanting to rebuild my supercharger which is an m62 also so interested in your post - did u manage to replace the front rotor bearings? if so did u have to remove the rotors from the shafts?

    many thanks for any info u may have

    ta rob.
    Last edited by swissrob; 08-16-2007 at 08:49 AM.

  17. #17
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    Hi there, I do some repair of these if you want some better pics: http://www.streetpro.cz/kalendar/det...?id_zprava=126
    Dyno 277PS/335Nm

  18. #18
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    hi,

    thanks for the link - i saw the damaged coupler and the new green coupler - do you know the part number for the rear rotor bearingsof the unit in the first photo by any chance?

    I am still looking for some instructions on how to replace the front rotor bearings.....

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