Well, when I was replacing my subframe bushings, I looked on here for a DIY tool. The only one I could find had you drilling through thick steel pipe end caps. Being poor, my dad and I went to Lowes to pick up the parts. In the same section as the end caps were pipe reducers. It didn't take us long to figure out how much simpler this would be. We brought the bushings to correctly size the reducers. This can do all 5 bushings on the subframe and the two RTAB's. I don't see why this wouldn't work for the LCAB's either. The tool is assembled easily and requires no modification of any of the parts. It is very versatile and cost us only around $12-$15.
What we bought:
1 foot long 3/8" threaded rod.
4 nuts
8 washers
1 2" to 3/4" reducer
1 1" to 3/4" reducer
1 1.25" coupler
1 1.25" to 3/4" bushing
2 3/4" to 3/8" bushings
Assembly and use is pretty self explanatory once you see the pictures. We used a bit of dishwashing soap to lubricate the bushings as we pressed them. I cannot emphasize how easy this was. The bushings went in so smoothly compared to everything else we had done to the car that it felt too good to be true. Well, it is true!
Enjoy.
Adversity is the mother of invention.
Last edited by Quailane; 07-09-2007 at 06:26 PM.
i was thinking about doing the same thing but using flat steel plates on each side.
Becoming a Professional OT Troll . CAN Bus Project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QuRBQzGs-c VGT/VNT +LDA controller: http://dmn.kuulalaakeri.org/vnt-lda/
Originally Posted by [B]SilverBeam[/B]Diesel > gasOriginally Posted by sparkchaser
AWESOME!
I am hopefully doing mine this weekend. I'll be going to Lowe's first
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
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hmm I might have to make that tool. Did you get all the parts at the lowes on 273?
Yes, but I'll give you mine for $10.
there good to use just dont use air tools on it youll ruin the threads
2 pieces of flat steel + decent size c-clamp works well too
wow damn, thank you so much...... i had planned on doing this sometime in the future but i was just going to take the rear subframe to a shop and have the new bushings pressed in or something, this makes it SOOOOO MUCH easier now though
I should do this for my LCABs. I only got one done when I tried, it was such a pita.
I may just order the treehouse racing ones though...
hmmm.. I have all sorts of bushings to do too.
good thread. i was going to use the pipe end cap method, but this looks easier. no need to break out the drill...
BMW Parts Whore... BUY THEM PLEASE!!!
I just want to add that you can also use this to press in a new rear wheel bearing.
What you need:
2 2" to 1/2" reducers
1 5' steel pipe
1 1.25" 1/2" drive socket
1 1/2" drive breaker bar
1 1' long 1/2" threaded rod
2 1/2" hardened nuts for rod
2 hardened washers for rod
1 large adjustable wrench
Procedure:
1 Grind out the threads on the narrow end of the two pipe reducers.
2 Grind exterior rim on the wide end of one of the pipe reducers until it can fit 3/8" inside the hole in the trailing arm for the rear wheel bearing
3 Set up device just like for pressing in rubber bushings, but make sure the rod does not extend past nut on the outer side.
4 Attach adjustable wrench to the nut on the inner side and make sure it is resting on some part of the car that can resist the torque you are going to apply
5 Attach socket and breaker bar with pipe over it to the outer nut.
6 Turn away until the bearing is all the way in. You can judge were it is by how far in the pipe reducer is and how much more force you have to apply to it.
When you are done, go pick up some large inner circlip pliers and pop in that inner circlip, not that the bearing is going anywhere without it.
All you need are the items of the modified list. However, you may also need to get a longer 1/2" threaded rod if you want to use this tool to get the bearing in all the way from the beginning. What I mean is that I used a hammer to slowly pound in the rim of the bearing until it was almost flush with the trailing arm. I used lubricating oil to help do this. I only used the bushing tool to push in the bearing the last 1/2" or so. If you follow what I did, only the 1 foot rod is necessary.
I'm most concerned with extracting the old race right now. I have an adapter that fits inside the race I can drill a hole in it for the rod to pass through, put a nut and washer on the other side, and use it to pull out the old race right?
you wouldn't happen to have a picture of the tool assembled would you?
Does this work for removing bushings as well as putting new ones in ?
I'm headed for Lowe's in the morning!
quick post so I can find the thread at home. Home made inexpensive tool FTW. Thanks!
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nice work, I just e-mailed this page to a friend.
Hey man, I'm a professional!
chris let me borrow your tool for free.
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