hey I'm new to the BMW world and I have an E36 M3 I just bought. I just purchased the NGK platinum spark plugs and was wondering how I would go about installing them. Can anyone help me out with this?
First remove the engine cover. Then remove each coil and replace each plug, being sure to reattach the ground straps. If you find that any of the pugs are wet with oil you need to replace the valve cover gaskets in the immediate future.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
jim is right. but for pictures and other "pointers" ... check out www.bimmerdiy.com and look for E36. there's more info there... good luck
It may help to tape the spark plug socket to the extension to keep it from slipping off the extension.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...park-Plugs.htm
Buy a locking extension for the spark plug socket, if the socket stays in the plug hole, it can be tough to get out:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
Make sure you torque the plugs to the correct spec.
BMW LEVEL 1 AUTOMOTIVE TECH AT WEDGE KYES
2001 525I.
Do you need to disconnect the battery to install plugs?
Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.
Please remember to use copper antiseize (to avoid galling) and a torque wrench. No torque wrench? Its a good excuse to buy one.
No.
And, +1 on using a torque wrench. Doing my first plug change I thought I could do it by hand. But of course I was concerned about OVERtightening them so, yep, UNDERtightened 'em. Couple of days later had a really bad idle/vibration - a couple plugs had loosened. Luckily, no other damage.
Otherwise, fairly straight-forward job, as mentioned.
Jim
Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.
Yeah, like everything else automotive, I think there's an alternate theory to everything. To be safe, I personally prefer to use a little anti-seize on the threads. I'd rather risk a little performance to insure that I don't damage my engine head when I remove the spark plugs. On the other hand, if you don't drive very hard, and you plan to change our your spark plugs every 10K miles, then you will likely never have a spark plug seize in your engine and you can more safely avoid using anti-seize. Many people wait the 100K miles to change their spark plugs and it's safer to use anti-seize.
As far as anti-seize goes, I don't think copper or whatever color matters much these days. Just make sure it is made to conduct electricity and will usually state on the package it can be used for spark plugs.
Well, Wayne probably knows more than I do...but I have been using anti seize on my plugs on various cars and motorcycles for about 10 years without a single problem...if he has something similar that will prevent galling, then by all means feel free to use that.
If you have ever had to deal with a frozen plug...you will know why many people swear by some form of antiseize.
And by the way, copper is the best conductor on the planet (within reason) so you should NOT have insulation issues with *copper* antiseize.
I trust Pelican, so I am not saying they are wrong at all...go with what he told you.
One more question... do our two-pronged plugs need to be gapped?
Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.
half of all the shit said here is only gonna confuse you more. Take off the plastic cover. Take off the coil packs. Replace plugs. That easy.
E36 NON Vanos and Misc Parts for Sale
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/To...25i%2092/story
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Tomfordny/library/
Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.
I'll be replacing mine for the first time myself. How long should this take?
Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.
If you service/maintain your car regularly then using anti seize on the plug thread is pointless. Especially if you torque them up to the correct reading
The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully
Thanks.
Will I need a special tool to get the spark plugs out? It looks deep, from pics on pelicanparts.
Yeah, 1-2 hrs. + autozone trips to replace the valve cover gaskets when I find oil everywhere.
No, standard spark plug socket and a long extension and a ratchet.
The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully
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