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Thread: how to replace spark plugs

  1. #1
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    how to replace spark plugs

    hey I'm new to the BMW world and I have an E36 M3 I just bought. I just purchased the NGK platinum spark plugs and was wondering how I would go about installing them. Can anyone help me out with this?

  2. #2
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    First remove the engine cover. Then remove each coil and replace each plug, being sure to reattach the ground straps. If you find that any of the pugs are wet with oil you need to replace the valve cover gaskets in the immediate future.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

  3. #3
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    jim is right. but for pictures and other "pointers" ... check out www.bimmerdiy.com and look for E36. there's more info there... good luck

  4. #4
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    It may help to tape the spark plug socket to the extension to keep it from slipping off the extension.

  5. #5
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    http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...park-Plugs.htm

    Buy a locking extension for the spark plug socket, if the socket stays in the plug hole, it can be tough to get out:

    http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

  6. #6
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    Make sure you torque the plugs to the correct spec.
    BMW LEVEL 1 AUTOMOTIVE TECH AT WEDGE KYES
    2001 525I.

  7. #7
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    Do you need to disconnect the battery to install plugs?
    Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.

  8. #8
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    Please remember to use copper antiseize (to avoid galling) and a torque wrench. No torque wrench? Its a good excuse to buy one.


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blufire View Post
    Do you need to disconnect the battery to install plugs?
    No.

    And, +1 on using a torque wrench. Doing my first plug change I thought I could do it by hand. But of course I was concerned about OVERtightening them so, yep, UNDERtightened 'em. Couple of days later had a really bad idle/vibration - a couple plugs had loosened. Luckily, no other damage.

    Otherwise, fairly straight-forward job, as mentioned.

    Jim

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by parabellum View Post
    Please remember to use copper antiseize (to avoid galling) and a torque wrench. No torque wrench? Its a good excuse to buy one.
    Wayne from Pelican Parts recommends against using anti-seize compound, as it may act as an electrical insulator.

    I got some "silicon lubicrant" included in my order of spark plugs and coils from bavauto... is this the same thing?
    Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blufire View Post
    Wayne from Pelican Parts recommends against using anti-seize compound, as it may act as an electrical insulator.

    I got some "silicon lubicrant" included in my order of spark plugs and coils from bavauto... is this the same thing?
    Yeah, like everything else automotive, I think there's an alternate theory to everything. To be safe, I personally prefer to use a little anti-seize on the threads. I'd rather risk a little performance to insure that I don't damage my engine head when I remove the spark plugs. On the other hand, if you don't drive very hard, and you plan to change our your spark plugs every 10K miles, then you will likely never have a spark plug seize in your engine and you can more safely avoid using anti-seize. Many people wait the 100K miles to change their spark plugs and it's safer to use anti-seize.

    As far as anti-seize goes, I don't think copper or whatever color matters much these days. Just make sure it is made to conduct electricity and will usually state on the package it can be used for spark plugs.

  12. #12
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    Well, Wayne probably knows more than I do...but I have been using anti seize on my plugs on various cars and motorcycles for about 10 years without a single problem...if he has something similar that will prevent galling, then by all means feel free to use that.

    If you have ever had to deal with a frozen plug...you will know why many people swear by some form of antiseize.

    And by the way, copper is the best conductor on the planet (within reason) so you should NOT have insulation issues with *copper* antiseize.

    I trust Pelican, so I am not saying they are wrong at all...go with what he told you.


  13. #13
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    One more question... do our two-pronged plugs need to be gapped?
    Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blufire View Post
    One more question... do our two-pronged plugs need to be gapped?
    No, they are pre-gapped.

    And, I've used a small dab of anti-sieze on the threads with no issues.

    Jim

  15. #15
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    half of all the shit said here is only gonna confuse you more. Take off the plastic cover. Take off the coil packs. Replace plugs. That easy.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by atlantisvip View Post
    half of all the shit said here is only gonna confuse you more. Take off the plastic cover. Take off the coil packs. Replace plugs. That easy.
    yeah, it really was that easy. I was surprised. O2 sensor sounds even easier
    Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.

  17. #17
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    I'll be replacing mine for the first time myself. How long should this take?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixbimmr View Post
    I'll be replacing mine for the first time myself. How long should this take?
    Top speed might be 8 min per plug. First time allow 15 per plug and an extra 30 for getting started on the first one. That adds up to 2 hours. I have not allowed time for trips to Autozone.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Venable View Post
    Make sure you torque the plugs to the correct spec.

    yeah, 5 clicks of the battery impact drill, LOL.

    BTW, I would highly advise against platinum plugs.
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by HGS View Post
    Top speed might be 8 min per plug. First time allow 15 per plug and an extra 30 for getting started on the first one. That adds up to 2 hours. I have not allowed time for trips to Autozone.
    1-2 hours sounds about right for the first time, as long as you have all the tools and parts with you.
    Current mods: Euro clears, Strömung exhaust, Cosmos Racing Intake, sound system, X-brace, DEPO Projector36 Headlights w/ DDE, Prolumen HID 6000K, M3 front bumper, M3 rear diffuser, paint matched sideskirts and rear bumper, TMS chip, UUC tranny mounts w/ enforcers, Bilstein PSS Suspension.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blufire View Post
    Wayne from Pelican Parts recommends against using anti-seize compound, as it may act as an electrical insulator.

    I got some "silicon lubicrant" included in my order of spark plugs and coils from bavauto... is this the same thing?
    Lubricating the threads also affects the torque spec. The 30N-m printed on the box of most OEM BMW spark plugs is for a 'dry' plug.

    The S52 M3 uses a Bosch FGR8KQC plug (pm 12129069877). S50s use either Bosch F7LDCR (12 12 9 063 428) or NGK BKR6EK (12 12 9 064 619).

  22. #22
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    If you service/maintain your car regularly then using anti seize on the plug thread is pointless. Especially if you torque them up to the correct reading
    The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blufire View Post
    yeah, it really was that easy. I was surprised. O2 sensor sounds even easier
    The big difference is that the plugs are easy to reach and the O2 sensors are difficult to get at and more likely to be frozen in their threads.

  24. #24
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    Thanks.

    Will I need a special tool to get the spark plugs out? It looks deep, from pics on pelicanparts.

    Yeah, 1-2 hrs. + autozone trips to replace the valve cover gaskets when I find oil everywhere.

  25. #25
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    No, standard spark plug socket and a long extension and a ratchet.
    The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully

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