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Thread: Idle Control Valve Write up; ICV clean DIY

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    St. Louis
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    My Cars
    2005 Infiniti G35 Sedan
    Just want to update this thread with the part numbers for those 2 hoses:

    13-41-1-739-649
    13-41-1-739-650

    From Pelicanparts, these are prices:
    13-41-1-739-649 = $4.25
    13-41-1-739-650 = $9.75

    13-41-1-739-650 is the long one that has two ends on one side, which connects to mass air boot from the other side.

    Thanks for the write up.

  2. #27
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    Jul 2004
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    Just put everything back together from the ICV clean up and now the car dies when I start it.
    The idle is really low like at 400 then dies after a couple seconds. Any reason why? I think maybe it's because there may still be TB cleaner in the ICV that is interfering? Any help please.

  3. #28
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    e39 540i/6, e36 318i
    Try unplugging the ICV's electrical connector and see if it will start then. I know my car will run like that albeit not well. Did the little valve inside move freely after you were done cleaning it? Also, (this part may be different as I have an M44) did you make sure the gasket between the ICV and intake was installed properly and leak free?
    1985 325 - 5 speed - LSD - M50NV - MS2/extra - AEM UEGO - TiAL MV-R - 750cc injectors - HX35 - Blunttech Manifold - 3" exhaust
    1991 318i - 5 speed - M50NV - e36 rack - Smileys

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyrix2k View Post
    Try unplugging the ICV's electrical connector and see if it will start then. I know my car will run like that albeit not well. Did the little valve inside move freely after you were done cleaning it? Also, (this part may be different as I have an M44) did you make sure the gasket between the ICV and intake was installed properly and leak free?
    So I took everything apart and shook the ICV around, then put everything back together, and the car starts and is running good. Thanks.

  5. #30
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    May 2005
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    NoVa
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    E36, 06 Subaru WRX WGN
    Did the cleaning of the ICV really solve anyone's problems? I'm contemplating it, but if it doesnt seem to help, im not gonna bother.

  6. #31
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    e39 540i/6, e36 318i
    Quote Originally Posted by astor View Post
    Did the cleaning of the ICV really solve anyone's problems? I'm contemplating it, but if it doesnt seem to help, im not gonna bother.
    It helped me with my bouncing idle when the headlights and heat were on, but it didn't do anything to help my rough idle; that was the plugs.
    1985 325 - 5 speed - LSD - M50NV - MS2/extra - AEM UEGO - TiAL MV-R - 750cc injectors - HX35 - Blunttech Manifold - 3" exhaust
    1991 318i - 5 speed - M50NV - e36 rack - Smileys

  7. #32
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    So now I'm having issues again. I was driving back home last night and teh idle started bogging and wanted to stall, but I reved the engine and then it stopped. This morning I drove to class and came back fine. About an hour later I get ready to leave, start the car, and it starts, but the idle is horrendous. It is under 800rpm bogging really bad, black smoke comming out of exhaust and my battery light comes on. I know I need a new alternator really soon, but does it have to do with the engine bogging really bad and the black smoke? Is it possible that I sprayed too much TB cleaner in the ICV that it's making the engine run like this? I waited for about 10min and then tried again and the car was running fine, idling at about 1000rpm.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Greece
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    BMW E36 M50B20
    I have an M42 E36 myself and just cleaned my ICV witout removing the intake manifold and throttle body, as mine has a slightliy different valve, placed near the firewall. Unfortunately that did not solve the rough idle matters, so I guess I 'm on for a new ICV...

    Since mine could not even start with the ICV before I cleaned it, I unplugged it and then the engine could start effortlessly, maintaining an idle of about 1000rpm.

    After I cleaned it, idle still goes from about 400 to 900 rpm, but hopefully the engine does not go off, so the car is driveable.
    Last edited by stavrn; 07-29-2007 at 05:06 AM.

  9. #34
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    Jul 2007
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    1995 318i
    Mr. M
    Big props man. I read a lot of other DIY for these, but non for the M42. You explained everything very well. I just got my first car and am starting to learn more and more about cars on this site everyday.

    My idle is solid now, but I am hearing some ticking/clicking sound from my engine. I couldnt tell ya if that was there before because I just got the car about two weeks ago. I explained the sound to my buddy whose a mechanic and he said it was probably the fuel injectors (or something like that). They speed up as I give it throttle, so I think hes right.

    And for the record, I did it without removing the manifold. I just removed the throttle body, disconnected the pipes, unhooked the boot (kinda a pain, but possible), and wiggled it out the back side of the manifold.

    To put it back in, I hooked up the rear pipe to the manifold, slid in the icv through the back the way I took it out (gotta use a little force and some wiggling). Once it was in there, I connected the rear pipe to the icv. Mounted the boot, connected the front Y pipe, and put the throttle body back on.

    I got my hands a little scuffed up, but not really knowing much about cars, I really tried to avoid taking off the manifold

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    uk
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    BMW 318iS E36
    Hi, thanks for the good write up with pics for noobz like me. I think i really need to do this on my car because the car often has problems with the idle bouncing when first started in the morning and after some motorway/fast driving.

    I took the throttle body off and was about to take the upper manifold off when i realized that the nut you described as being hard to get off (the one at the back of the intake manifold near the firewall) is actually damn near impossible to get off. so i ended up putting everything back together.

    Does anyone have any tips / techniques for getting this nut off without rounding it off or otherwise screwing something up??

    Thanks again for the guide
    Neil.

  11. #36
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    Sep 2006
    Location
    Dublin, Ireland
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    2000 316i Compact
    Hi all,

    I too have a rough idle on my Compact 316i 1.9 M43. The car seems to drive fine when running and never stalls.

    Can someone please tell me where the ICV and AFM is - I can't find the ICV and don't know what I'm looking for for the AFM ? For good measure, where are the O2 sensors ?

    Does anyone have a good pic or diagram of the M43 ?

    I also have a split in the Rocker Cover breather hose right at the rocker cover end. Would this have any affect on the idling ?

    Between the rough idle and the split breather pipe, could this have any affect on MPG figures ?

    Many thanks


    Cormac

  12. #37
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    Sep 2007
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    Houston
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    e36 1995 318is (retired)
    So I just changed out one of my vaccum hoses connecting to the PCV valve, & noticed a high pitched air noise coming out... I think my PCV valve has a leak as I could push my finger onto the top of it, and the leak went away, do you think I should replace it or just tape it up?

  13. #38
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    Sep 2007
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    Houston
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    e36 1995 318is (retired)
    I was twinkering with the PCV valve again, and tried to see if I could unscrew it (very stupid of me by the way) & ended up breaking the little triangle thing on the end. Afterwards, I found a small hole underneath the small triangle (on the lid), hence why I was hearing air going in/out of the PCV valve.... Anyways, long story short, I think that it's not a problem & it is something else...

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Houston
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    e36 1995 318is (retired)
    Anyways, so i'm getting a rough idle with a check engine light coming on when I don't gas my car... I was going to do the cleaning of the ICV - but then realized that this car has NEVER had a tune up (spark plugs/fuel filter/ o2 sensor).. (thanks to the previous owner)... So what do you guys think I should try first to remedy the check engine light during idles?

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorkpharmer View Post
    I was twinkering with the PCV valve again, and tried to see if I could unscrew it (very stupid of me by the way) & ended up breaking the little triangle thing on the end. Afterwards, I found a small hole underneath the small triangle (on the lid), hence why I was hearing air going in/out of the PCV valve.... Anyways, long story short, I think that it's not a problem & it is something else...
    if its hissing out the triangle then its bust, must b replaced. this will affect ur idle and trigger codes/engine light. if u can, take a pic of the offending part and post it here, they are common for going wrong but i can never find a pic to show some1
    The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully

  16. #41
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    Sep 2007
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    Houston
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    e36 1995 318is (retired)
    Its this thing ... here... someone from above circled it in yellow...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 1.JPG (31.7 KB, 465 views)

  17. #42
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    Sep 2007
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    Houston
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    e36 1995 318is (retired)
    any ideas on how to remove this ugly thing? It looks like 2 screws on the underside, but I can't get anything under there...

    Pelican parts has the PCV as item#
    11-15-7-501-567-M9 ~$50
    Last edited by dorkpharmer; 10-14-2007 at 04:20 PM.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Royal Oak (Detroit) Mi
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    95 DASC 318ic
    Quote Originally Posted by dorkpharmer View Post
    any ideas on how to remove this ugly thing? It looks like 2 screws on the underside, but I can't get anything under there...

    Pelican parts has the PCV as item#
    11-15-7-501-567-M9 ~$50

    you need to pull the upper half of the intake off. then the plate that has the pvc valve on it should slide off (the plate is sandwiched between the top half & the bottom half of the intake). then undo the 2 screws & you're done.

    and just a general bitch, bmw could have designed this part to be screwed down from the top but it would have been too easy for serviceability.
    good luck

    95 alpine white 318iC - my 1st bimmer!!! now even better w/ dasc, tokico illuminas, h&r sport springs, new wheels, new top & hid...just a few of the sunk costs in this money pit!!!
    88 civic w/ zc swap
    97 lifted tj
    and a few more project cars!!!

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Harpers Ferry WV
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    325I 1993

    325IS Idle surge problem

    1993 325is automatic

    Ok I have the surge and drop down idle problem and check engine light. I have been searching forums for about an hour and found this thread will get the TB cleaner and see about cleaning the ICV and check hoses and such for cracks and leaks. Seeing the ICV used at places but it appears all you have to do is clean it and connectors from what you guys are saying. A lot cheaper than spending $125 bucks on a new one. Can anyone tell me where it is located on the 93 325is automatic? Bought the car 8 months ago from a chick that had let it go badly. Had torn off door panels, no working rear lights burned up brake rotor, broken right window clips, no rear view mirror, snapped passenger seat forward lever, hung up door locks with central door locking problem, torn intake boot, bad radiator mount clips, low trans-power steering fluid, low coolant levels, broken windshield fluid pump, missing fog light, leaking tire, burnt out headlights, GAWD!!!!!
    I finally got it tagged and drove it today. My intention was to sell it till I got it out on the road. Now I have the idle control problem so the journey continues.....Fixed almost everything but the Idle control problem and the central locking problem. I understand the issue with the locks is in the drivers lock and is a bitch to replace. Can anyone point me to a thread where this repair is described? I like the car but working on this car make the non complexity of my MPG champ Geo Metro seem like a Caribbean vacation. Seems like every time I fix one thing I find another problem.
    Also where can I download an owners manual for this car. I have no idea how to get the displays out of German. Thanks Guys! Scott

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    2001 330i
    Changed Belts
    Changes O2 sensor
    Changed Fuel Filter
    Changed Spark Plugs
    Used BMW OEM Fuel Injection Cleaner

    and I still got a shitty idle (at lights, when the AC is on, when the Heat is on, when I roll up the windows, etc...) and sometimes my engine starts idles really rough and dies after I been driving around for a bit and the engine is warm.

    So it has to be this.
    I will be doing this DIY this week sometime.

    Anyone know off hand the price of some of the tubes and gaskets that the dealership charges? I think I want t o replace all of that.


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  21. #46
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
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    1992 318is
    Part numbers for hoses that might potentially be replaced? What is the Throttle Body cleaner called? Can the ICV be correlated/contribute to poor gas mileage?

  22. #47
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homegrown in BC View Post
    Part numbers for hoses that might potentially be replaced? What is the Throttle Body cleaner called? Can the ICV be correlated/contribute to poor gas mileage?
    Here are all the parts you need. You should also replace the throttle body gasket and the intake manifold cover gaskets (in bold below- I put what the dealer actually charges you in RED) when you clean and replace the ICV unit and hoses. Yeas the ICV is related to poor gas milage and bad idling.

    Total for all parts is about $65.00 plus another $5.00 for Throttle Body Cleaner, so expect to spend about $70.00 before attempting this DIY and get ALL the parts you need or think you need before if you BMW is your only means of driving back to the dealership after you take you Manifold apart and find you need extra stuff.



    No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
    FOR VEHICLES WITH
    WITHOUT CATALYTIC CONVERTER = NO
    AND
    CATALYTIC CONVERTER
    S199A=NO
    01 AIR VOLUME DETERMINATOR WITHOUT CO-POTI 1 13621734655 ENDED, See SI 130294796
    01 RMFD MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR W/OUT CO POTI 1 04/2005 13627547979 ENDED
    01 RMFD-VOL. AIR FLOW SENSOR W ADAPTER LEAD 1 13627558785 $556.88
    02 SEALING FRAME 1 13711705064 $0.44
    03 STOP NUT M6 4 51211803363 $0.93
    04 RUBBER BOOT HC1/2 1 09/1994 13711247829
    05 HOSE CLAMP L71-78 1 07129952129
    06 HOSE CLAMP L89-96 1 07129952135 $1.99
    07 T-SHAPE IDLE REGULATING VALVE 1 09/1994 13411433627 $172.98
    08 RUBBER MOUNTING 1 09/1994 13411247135 $3.78
    09 BRACKET IDLE ADJUSTER 1 13411734521 $2.47
    10 HEX NUT WITH PLATE AM6-ZNS 1 07129900681
    10 HEX NUT WITH PLATE AM6-8-ZNNIV SI 1 07129904553
    11 AIR HOSE HC1/2 1 09/1994 13411739649 $7.92 $14.00 See SI 120294826
    12 AIR HOSE HC1/2 1 09/1994 13411739650 $18.41 $26.00

    ONLY APPLIES TO
    -- DISTRIBUTION PIECE HC1/2 ? 13531739618 $32.64
    13 SUPPORT 1 13411722944
    14 BRACKET, CABLE HARNESS 1 12531721040 $0.28

    Notes:

    SI, TÜV, SDB = Service Information (refer to TIS).
    ENDED = The part has been discontinued.





    No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
    01 THROTTLE HOUSING ASSY 1 01/1994 13541739297 $332.57
    02 GASKET ASBESTOS FREE 1 07/1994 13541743261 $1.73 $4.00
    04 HEX NUT WITH PLATE AM6-ZNS 4 07129900681
    05 THROTTLE VALVE SWITCH 4 KOHM 1 13631726591 $87.33 +core, See SI 130491336
    06 FILLISTER HEAD SCREW M4X2,5 2 13541726918 $2.90
    08 BRACKET 1 13541739230 $9.82
    09 HEX BOLT WITH WASHER M6X12-Z3 2 07119915013 $0.22
    10 FIT BOLT 3 13541727876 ENDED
    11 FLAT WASHER 3 13541727877 ENDED
    12 BRACKET 1 13541727147 $29.02
    13 NIPPLE 1 13541288013 $0.71

    Notes:

    +core = plus core charge.
    SI, TÜV, SDB = Service Information (refer to TIS).
    ENDED = The part has been discontinued.




    No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
    01 INTAKE MANIFOLD LOWER PART HC1/2 1 01/1994 11611734840 $285.70
    02 DOWEL D=9,5MM 2 01/1994 11611739554 $5.47
    03 STUD BOLT M7X55 2 01/1994 07129908122 $0.22
    04 STUD BOLT M6X25-ZN 2 01/1994 07129908100 $0.17
    05 STUD BOLT M7X30 1 01/1994 07129908125
    06 VACUMM BOX 1 01/1994 11611734472 $48.83
    07 FILLISTER HEAD SCREW M5X12 2 01/1994 07119906816 $0.17
    08 GASKET STEEL 2 01/1994 11611739545 $5.19 $10 but you need two so $20 for both
    09 FLANGE 1 01/1994 11611739538 $42.41 +core
    10 INTAKE MANIFOLD UPPER PART 1 02/1995 11611743139 $251.10 +core
    ONLY IN CONJUNCTION WITH
    -- HEX BOLT WITH WASHER M7X16-Z2 1 02/1995 07119900509 $0.28
    11 STUD BOLT M6X28-ZN 4 07/1994 07129908111 $0.39
    12 HEX NUT WITH PLATE M7 7 01/1994 11611435937 $0.23
    13 HEX BOLT WITH WASHER M7X100-Z1 1 01/1994 07119901683 $0.92
    14 GASKET ASBESTOS FREE 1 01/1994 11611734684 $9.04
    15 O-RING 65X1,8 1 01/1994 11611734225 $3.27
    16 HEX BOLT WITH WASHER M7X16-Z2 1 01/1994 07119900509 $0.28

    Notes:

    +core = plus core charge.
    Last edited by delmarco; 07-08-2008 at 04:22 PM.


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  23. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    2001 330i
    I went to do this DIY today and saw my hoses where cracked even before I removed anything and now I'm waiting 2 days for the parts to come in from the dealership. I could only tape it up, but in doing so I think I made it worse. The car has been stalling since. Engine just starts and dies and check engine light comes on with the code for air flow sensor (1215).

    fcuk!!!





    Last edited by delmarco; 07-08-2008 at 11:45 PM.


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  24. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Bangkok, Thailand
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    94E36 m42 SEDAN
    Take it EZ man

    by the way these are my latest pics when I doing this.
    (noted: my car is right-hand-drive)

    Here some hint to remove the throttle cable



    -Pull up the throttle a little bit to gain space
    -Use a small flat screw driver to pry off the locking pin.


    There is a gap on the another end of the locking clip that you can slide the cable off.



    I use a chopstick to pry off the o-ring


    Then the whole upper part off



    My cleaning gadgets

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Martinsburg, WV
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    '89 325iC, '97 328iC
    I wanted to update this thread with my experiences cleaning the IACV. Like several posters on the first page, my IACV (92, with a 3/92 build date) was really easy to get to. As you face the motor from the front, it is to the back and right of the intake manifold. There is no need to remove the manifold- just disconnect the hoses and slide the IACV out of the rubber ring that holds it in place.

    I also removed the coupler between the MAF and the TB and used throttle body cleaner to clean the TB.

    While the cause of the problem (a surging idle) was clearly the IACV outlet hose, doing the IACV and TB cleaning, plus replacing the spark plugs, clearly did not hurt my long-term performance.

    I cleaned it with TB cleaner and tried to use 3/4" heater hose to replace the outlet hose from the IACV (closest BMW dealership is 60 miles away, and I was trying to troubleshoot this weekend), but the bend was too compond to not kink the hose, so I had to do a temporary repair with electrical tape to test if this was the cause of my surging. I plan to order both IACV hoses, as one was clearly decimated and the other was showing signs of wear.

    I went to REALOEM and found this page:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CA53&mospid=47490&btnr=13_0363& hg=13&fg=15



    The parts that I need are 11 and 12, but mine look NOTHING like those. The intake IACV hose is a very bent-up "U" shape, and the outlet hose is a "J" shape.

    Where is the best place to find the part numbers for the two hoses that I need?

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