850i, E31 Locked Trunk

[JWB]

I had trouble with a drivers side window that wouldn't open. After trying unsuccessfully to fix it, I now can't open it, the sunroof, trunk, or door locks.

Even my key won't open the trunk! Car starts, so battery isn't dead. How can I open the trunk to get at relays and fuses that are there?

Thanks for any suggestions.

[TerryY]

Sounds like you blew a fuse. Check the fusebox under the hood.

You didn't by chance lock the glovebox did you? The trunk lock is linked to the glovebox lock.

If you have to use the key in the trunk, I believe it is push up and then twist but I can't be absolutely sure. My 840 is at home and I am at work.

[clockwork]

any solution to this problem. I'm facing the exact same situation. but my key will not even unlock the trunk and NO I did not lock the glove boxes lately.
I'm sure I blew a fuse, but no way for me to get into the trunk now

[Dan B CSi]

Manual trunk unlock:
Insert key, turn key, REMOVE key and push button by hand.
That should do it.
Dan

[clockwork]

Dan, nope. I've tried that lots!! for some reason it will not unlock manually either. I'm screwed. and I know there is nothing blocking the trunk latch cause there is nothing in my trunk

[cartoonz]

Does sound like you blew a fuse. Also sounds like you messed something up while inside the door... might want to crack the panel off again and check that everything is right with the handle/lock/switches too

[Noggie]

not the normal open button.

You put the key in, twist it, remove the key and push the LOCK cylinder up. NOT the normal trunk opener switch.

[clockwork]

cartoonz, I was never inside the door panel.
I was playing with the interior lights that are in the roof by the sunroof switch

[bRIZZAd]

not the normal open button.

You put the key in, twist it, remove the key and push the LOCK cylinder up. NOT the normal trunk opener switch.

+1 - That is a more accurate description of what to do here.

[clockwork]

I've tried this method. I was told by Timm to try something else tonight. So thats my new plan of attack. I can not get into my trunk with the method you're describing bRIZZAD/Noggie.

[cartoonz]

the original poster was fixing his window, hence the confusion.

Yes, adding power to the dead circuit should let you unlock everything...

[Speedjunky850]

not the normal open button.

You put the key in, twist it, remove the key and push the LOCK cylinder up. NOT the normal trunk opener switch.

WIth my 91.. I have to leave the key in mine and push up.

Perhaps that is what he needs to try?

[Dan B CSi]

not the normal open button.

You put the key in, twist it, remove the key and push the LOCK cylinder up. NOT the normal trunk opener switch.

That is what I meant but your's is a better explanation!

[clockwork]

thanx guys. I tried multiple ways to unlock with the key/finger but nothing, BUT Timm's way of powering up the central locking system through the glovebox + terminal worked like a charm!!!

[Timm]

Marvelous! I'm really glad you got it all sorted in the end - I was a bit worried that the work you did while adding my LED mod had permanently disabled your car!

[8eights]

If you can't open the trunk with just a key, Something else is wrong as all locks are JUST Mechanical first and operate with a key perfectly without a battery in the car.

[clockwork]

8Eights, agreed. I just never knew I had a problem with teh mechanical operation of the lock till this situation came up.
I've only ever used the electric switch/handle to open it when the car/glovebox were unlocked.

[martin gleeson]

What was Timm`s way of powering up the central locking system through the glovebox + terminal ?
I previously locked myself out of the boot(trunk) when having disconnected the batteries I closed the boot(trunk) lid before going for a refreshing cup of tea without realising that the lock was electronic.I had a heart-stopping half hour on this forum looking for the key fix.The key fix worked but only on the third or fourth attempt.
Will Timm`s fix work if the batteries are disconnected or just in cases where the fuse is blown?I imagine the fix is limited to the blown fuse scenario.

[revtor]

martin gleeson: Timm's idea was to supply power to the circuit behind the (blown) fuse (see Need some insight/advice - interior electrical issues). If all fuses are ok, you can supply power anywhere you like. For example, on the under-hood terminals, the cigarette lighter,...

[95e31]

Last year I opened my garage one morning and found my 1995 840Ci trunk lock engaging and disengaging about once a second: click-click, click-click, click-click. For some reason I decided to pull out the glove box flashlight and it immediately stopped. I don't know for how many hours this had gone on, but it was happening before I entered the garage.

I really didn't think that much about it until recently (a year later) because it's doing it again.

When this happens I have no control over the windows and the trunk cannot be opened.

The car is not locked in the garage so unlocking the door has not been an issue.

Today I noticed that if I force the interior lights on with the switch they also turn off and on at the same rate as the trunk lock (actuator?).

The flashlight is long gone so I plugged in a GPS to the cigarette lighter and it eventually stopped but not immediately, giving me control over the windows and trunk again.

It's particularly troubling that this behavior starts up while the car is parked. I can't imagine what gets it started when the car should be completely "off."

The trunk is also not locked when this happens.

[bigswervin69]

not the normal open button.

You put the key in, twist it, remove the key and push the LOCK cylinder up. NOT the normal trunk opener switch.

I was having the same problem. This little trick took care of it. This forum has saved my ass so many times!

[Ryako1]

Sorry if I sound like a dunder head with this question but I'm pretty sure in my situation it's fuse 31 that's blown as I can't open the trunk (even with key), the MID is out and the passenger side windows won't open. Can I use Tim's idea of supplying power to the glovebox or is there a different method for fuse #31?

[TxGR8White]

Sorry if I sound like a dunder head with this question but I'm pretty sure in my situation it's fuse 31 that's blown as I can't open the trunk (even with key), the MID is out and the passenger side windows won't open. Can I use Tim's idea of supplying power to the glovebox or is there a different method for fuse #31?

you do NOT need power to open the trunk with the key. If your key does NOT work, it might be because of one of the following:

• trunk lock has been replaced and not matched to your key. You can check this by seeing if your key will actually twist the lock - if it does, then you have a matching key and lock
• the connecting rod has become dislodged. You will need to power locking solenoid. Apply power (charger) to the positive post under the hood,; negative to any ground point. This should give you enough juice to trigger the trunk latch.
• you are trying to open the trunk with the valet key - won't work if the glovebox lock is locked.
• your glovebox lock is locked AND the switch may have become dislodged while in that position. Unlocking the glovebox will have no effect if the switch is not connected to the glovebox lock tumbler (common problem).

Another note: You do NOT necessarily need to remove the key to activate the manual unlock. Twist the key and push the key upward - does the same thing. A lot of folks "relock" the lock while removing the key (this could also be what might be keeping you out of the trunk).

Good luck, and let us know how you make out.

[Ryako1]

Thanks TxGR8White I've tryed every manual tip that's been covered in this thread and nothing has worked. This problem arose after the batteries had been disconnected for some work so I'm assuming your second point would be the route I need to take since the key worked fine before and the glovebox is not locked. Although I will check to be sure the switch is connected to the lock tumbler.

[EEDegreeToDrive]

• your glovebox lock is locked AND the switch may have become dislodged while in that position. Unlocking the glovebox will have no effect if the switch is not connected to the glovebox lock tumbler (common problem).

Tx--
Wouldn't the master key still work in this scenario, or is there a double lock?

I agree though, if the key doesn't work in the trunk:
1) You are doing it wrong, still
2) You have the wrong key (see if it operates the glovebox, too)
3a) Someone replaced the trunk lid and didn't move the cylinder (accident?)
3b) Someone roplaced all the lock cylinders EXCEPT the trunk cylinder
4) BMW never tested it (or maybe there is a problem with certain key clearances/cuts)
5) It might be rusted in place from never being used in 20yrs (or painted)

Thanks TxGR8White I've tryed every manual tip that's been covered in this thread and nothing has worked. This problem arose after the batteries had been disconnected for some work so I'm assuming your second point would be the route I need to take since the key worked fine before and the glovebox is not locked. Although I will check to be sure the switch is connected to the lock tumbler.

When you put the key in, does it turn at all? It should turn about 60 degrees IIRC. If you can turn with the key in, and then push in on the cylinder, then yeah, loose connecting rod.
If you pop the hood, and put a charger on the jump start post, you should also be able to lock/unlock the car with the key, and then operate the trunk latch as usual. In my car, my drivers door module doesn't always unlock/disarm things, I sometimes have to unlock from the pass side.