Don't know if this has been asked yet, (it's to much to read), but you guys are using the correct octane gas right? If you only get those problems with greater throttle, then that might be the reason.
Yeah, got that one covered. 92 FTW.
i want to push my car into the ocean if it makes a difference...
No!! BMWs can't swim!
Guys,
I've got a very clean and smooth acceleration from every rpm level, after I installed this. Got 3 of these next to the battery. Also installed a grounding cable.
http://www.the-pivot.co.jp/product/se/raizin-e.html
And this improved my 0-60 time by 0.8 sec.
http://www.the-pivot.co.jp/product/se/raizin-s-e.html
Last edited by L36328; 01-29-2006 at 01:30 AM.
Bilstein shocks|H&R springs|Eibach antirollbars|Bridgestone RE001|Foamed chassis|X-brace.|Camber plates|Voltage stabilizers|Grounding cable|Full Wurth soundproofing|Engine rebuilt|Gearbox rebuiltx2|Work in progress...
Bahh...I wish we all can fix this mystery. It's like some kind of disease passed on for E36s. My car has a problem going over 3,000+ RPM, it's so hard when other cars are running you over on the Hwy.
Starting at the 3,000+ RPM point, it starts to jerk like it does not have enough fuel to let the car move forward. I took it to a mechanic and he changed my vacuum boot which fixed the idle of my car only.
Later, I checked the check engine code and it gave me code for o2 sensors. I was told to reset it to see if it appears again. The check engine light appears every now and then. I'm thinking it's the o2 sensors but haven't thought about changing it because that may not be the main problem. Anybody think the o2 sensor has anything to do with this?
Does the correct octane gas have a great effect on the car? I heard from some people it doesn't make much of a difference. I don't know what the previous owner of the car pumped into the car so I wonder if that could trigger the problem. What's the right octane anyways? 89 for the 1995 318i, right?
^^ not really, a tad slower due to timing retardation, but not to the point of our problems.
Welcome a new member to the club of hesitation / bogging.
Mine just hesitates from idle to about 2 - 3k. No where near as bad as DMurrary's though.
BTW, Dan, have you checked your intake boot or your O2 sensor? The E30 is notorious for acting the way your E36 did in the video, or even a nasty vacuum leak.
I'm going to pull my plugs and iginition coils tomorrow. Next step will be a new O2 sensor.
The cats on my 92 325i are about 1 year old, just passed smog, so those should be still good.
I'll snap pics of my plugs and ignition coil boots for you guys too. Might as well start a well-documented trouble-shooting process.
- Jonathan
Yep, new O2 with about 5k miles on it. Is there a way to check it with a multimeter or something?Originally Posted by bmwe30is
Intake boot is fine, no cracks.
I switched in a used set of coils that I was told were good, made no difference. I guess they could be bad as well, though that doens't seem too likely.
Cats are probably on their way out...failed smog twice until I got the cats nice and hot, and passed no problem. That might just be a BMW cat trait though, from what I understand.
One thing I did notice - when I changed my plugs the old ones' tips were all white...don't know exactly what this indicates.
Dan
Dan
Detonation, I think. Check out the picture at the bottom:Originally Posted by dmurray14
http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacg...063&Section=15
well i have this same problem, just read through all 9 pages and decided to get some stuff to try and fix it. I'm gunna start with the O2 sensor, if that doesnt work i'll try the coolant sensor, and then i'll just throw in a fuel filter since i'm probably over due anyways. if it works i'll let ya'll know. good luck to all of you who have this problem cause it SUCKS!
VANOS is a system that changes valve timing. The 4 cylinder cars don't have it.
1995 325I, tinted windows, K&N, debaffled airbox, Nighthawk low beams, BMW style #104 wheels, smoked corners, smoked sidemarkers, smoked taillights, M3 style heated mirrors, various interior bits, Bosal cat-back.
Ive read the Whole thread today
I have an idle issue too & sometimes exsperiance when on the motorway the car will missfire/lag for a few seconds then pick up again after doing this when stopped it will rev by itself between 2k rpm and 3.5k rpm.
Just to recap what people have done to fix this problem
The number of I's tell you how many people have changed that particular item and curred there problem.
Crank Sensor IIII<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Vacum Pipe I (Pipe from Vanos to inlet)<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Coil packs II (High resistance bad, Lower the better)<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
O2 sensor IIIII (They Last 60,000 Miles)<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
CAT I<o:p></o:p>
I,m going to replace all my vacum pipes as the one from vanos is slightly weak and worn
then ill try replacing the O2 sensor
I also have a bit of oil on my plugs which i assum is the valve cover gasket needs replacing
My CAT could be worn to as it used to be a 4 Pot 1.8 but now has a 2.0 6 pot in it so it could have desstroyed it
Ill also clean my crank shaft sensor
Great Info in here Guys ill keep you informed as to my problem diagnostics
Cheers Tim
tim how did you clean your crank sensor? with what cleaner?Originally Posted by Tim Poole
i have some progress with my car i brought it to bmw they did a fuel pressure test (wasn't the case) and then he plugged it in on the diagnostics nothing there as well. i asked the mechanic what he would do if it was his car. he said to start with the mass air flow. so for the fun of it i unplugged it and drove around with it unplugged and the car drove the same with it unplugged so i have a feeling its the mass air flow meter. i also found a shop that rebuilds those in my area for 140$ cdn so im happy about that. @ BMW that part cost 754$
Guys,
I just bought a used MAF today. Will switch it in as soon as I get it.
Tim Poole, if it's alright with you I'm going to copy what you wrote and put it in the first post so people know what's been tried.
Thanks,
Dan
Dan
A good code reader will show you the voltage fluxuation of the o2 with the car running.Originally Posted by dmurray14
I have had my car up on jacks for a couple months replacing various things. To combat this issue I just did a cat & resonator delete then welded in some high flow resonators (to quiet it down). I have not fired it up and/or drove it yet so I am not sure if it will help. I am going to drive it a bit then move on to replacing the o2. I am pretty convinced it has to do with cats o2's but it is just a hunch.
I have already replaced the spark plugs which didn't do a da*n thing and valve cover gaskets would not be the issue unless oil was up to the connection (I do need one but autozone wants about 3 times more $$ than BFC vendors, so I need to wait for my next parts order).
If my emissions theory does not cure the problem then I am heading straight for a compression test (which I will do anyway). If the compression is low then it is time for a S50.
If none of the above fix it then I am going to a bimmer mechanic because I am tired of dumping money into guesses.
Just a dumb thought...real quick here: For those that replaced VCG's and/or coil packs, did you do spark plug boots as well?
Yes. Well, not new, but they were changed out.Originally Posted by Spood
I have the MAF covered, someone buy something else and try it. If we all try something, maybe we can find a solution.
Dan
Dan
I want to try crank position sensor-- hmm lemme go see how much these cost
Crankshaft Position Sensor, 325i/is/iC (1992-95), M3 (with 3.0 engine)
Brand: AB Elektronik [Photo]
12-14-1-726-066-M375 $93.00
Bookmarks