Does anyone know where i can get pinout info for Siemens DME MS40.1?
I have the Bentley manual but it does not cover my DME.
Here's what i've tried....new parts
Plugs NGK BKR6EK
DME water temp sensor
Air filter and fuel filter
Water pump (needed doin' anyway!)
Thermostat (broken and stuck in the open position)
Oil and filter after Wynn's engine flush
Hydraulic tappet conditioner additive in oil
Injector cleaner additive in fuel
DME relay and fuel pump relay
Crank sensor and Cam sensor
Tried second hand....
DME
Fuel rail with FPR and injectors
Air flow meter and TPS
Checked/cleaned....
ICV, MAP sensor and all vacuum hoses
Earth connections and Power connections, sensor connections, continuities.
Fuses and relay connections
Compression test....all good.
Fuel pressure under all conditions
Alternator output, battery state.
Stipped DME and resoldered all major components. Had DME interrogated.
Harmonic balancer (crank sensor trigger) alignment.
All sensor and coil resistances within given tolerances.
All sensor, injector connectors have correct voltages as specified.
Lambda functioning as it should, Vanos checked but noisy.
Not much left to check!
I am now convinced my/our problems are outside of the DME's monitoring/adaptation capability ie Non electrical such as FPR, or, a fault that is just bad enough to cause our problems but not bad enough to generate a fault code? ie Coil boots partially leaking to earth so the DME does not "see" the problem BUT we know the poblem is there because the car drives like crap!
I aint gonna be beaten.
When i found the problem with the insulation on the sensor plugs, i too wondered if the loom side would be the same, so i checked all of them and they were OK. I came to the conclusion that the loom is made by a different manufacturer than the sensors and they use a different/better quality cable.Originally Posted by acmclb
Might be worth checking anyway though.
I looked back to see what you have replaced and i see you haven't changed your coil boots either? I think that is my next move, like you say we are all high mileage sufferers and mine do look a bit tired.
Good luck
Fudge it, I am buying the performance coils from bavauto in like 2 mins so I will see if this helps, I will also replace the intake air temp sensor and change them at different times.
"If ignorance is bliss, than wipe the smile off my face."- The great Zack De La Rocha, Rage Against the Machine
Anyone else done or considered this? When I mentioned the bogging when warm problem to a BMW tech, the first thing he mentioned was the vibration damper. I had a peek at mine and it looked alright - the rubber sandwich looked healthy - but I don't know if a visual check is adequate or not.Originally Posted by 323iM
I've just been through the whole thread and, being less the mechanic than most of you, the information is very helpful. Thanks. Mine is pretty much getting to a critical point.. the car runs more horribly as time passes, and it's gotten to a point where occasionally it's only running on 5 cylinders... with a horrible fluttering noise when that happens. As with most of you, the car is fine at startup and gets bad as it gets warmer or the day heats up. If I punch it with some beligerance, it's like I can make one of the plugs quit firing. It shudders horribly but if I turn the car off and on again... I'm back to all 6 running (still runs bad though). Can't get it going from a stop and if I take the foot off the gas even at freeway speeds it will sputter on re-accel. As long as I keep a constant gas to it, it runs fine, even good at times. Weird deal. Have tried new plugs... no help after about a week and I've had 2 secondary air pump failures which I'm told is unrelated. Sensors, vanos... this thing is a mess. BMW guys couldn't get it right.. need help and it seems still no definitive answer here. I checked the coils and they were fine on last inspection and no leaks apparent. Question I have is related to the plug changes. We all seem to agree that changing the plugs is a short-term fix. It seems to me that something is wrecking the plugs perhaps? I dunno... not the big mechanic, but that seems the place to go for me. Thoughts?
Anything from fuel to lack of could cause the plug failures. I've been running on my new NGK's for a month or so maybe now, and they definetly helped a lot but I still feel like the car isn't 100%. I am changing my fuel filter tonight, as that seems to be another common problem.
I've also got a CEL related to the fuel vapor valve located in the trunk. The problems I'm having started about a month after I threw that code, so I don't think that it would be the culprit but I'm not sure. If that valve wasn't $100 I would have gotten one already, but it's going to have to wait until I get back to a critical point.
Originally Posted by dmurray14
u can't drive when u take off the maf plug the car just shuts off cause i tried that And Keep this thread going i have the dam same problem when i start the car it runs find but when i drive off it tend to decrease accleration and i can move at all but the car still on i have to turn the car off then turn it back on and flore it back home and help thank ..
Originally Posted by dmurray14
i might have 2
just pay no attention to the funny looks you get going down the street, but i think if you check back you'll notice someone has already replaced their cats and it didn't fix anything.
"Before you can think outside the box, you have to know whats in it"
-Matthew
M42 Club Member #126
Did you read all of my post? You can disconnect the MAF and the engine will still run...I've done it.Originally Posted by str8bucking
Dan
Dan
yep. i did it on accident. and it barely started for me, but it did run.Originally Posted by dmurray14
E36 325is - SOLD
*New signature being updated soon with Z4MC
For the record-- I've given up.
I'm sorry to hear that, boy this problem is a $h1tty deal to some of you guys. I wish we could find a real solution to this, it worries me.Originally Posted by a32guy
~Phil
P.S. Don't give up
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
awww come on man. just imagine it running new again. thats my motivation.Originally Posted by a32guy
E36 325is - SOLD
*New signature being updated soon with Z4MC
Oh, shut up Chris! Last time you got drunk, you said you were going to sell it for a Honda. Will power man, will power!Originally Posted by a32guy
Dan
Dan
Originally Posted by dmurray14
cross that yae it did run with out the maf plug but when the problem starts agian i was rubing on the acclerator and the maf made a poping noise don't know what happen but everything looks aright...AND i THINK I FOUND THE PROBLEM on my 318is 92 when it start bogging and no accleration and hesitating
i took off the vacuum hose that connect to the fuel pressure regulator i took of the hose 4 like 5 second and there was air blowing out then i reconnect it back on it started to run fine i drove 4 like 20 minutes and it was ok but i know the probelms is still there cause i didn't replace it yet and the car seem not usually it seem slow but the car runs fine no more bogging i thingk it would better if i change the pressure regulator i might fell the different but the point it i just took the hose off and let some air out and put it back onn then car runs fine but i need a tune up asap
Why are you including that picture of your car in every post? Kind of annoying...Originally Posted by str8bucking
Anyway, I've done the pressure regulator, and it made no difference for me. I believe someone else on here did the same thing with the same results.
Dan
Dan
Originally Posted by 323nick
same problem hope my tip helped
Originally Posted by dmurray14
What u use to clean i ICV?
Originally Posted by WickedCrispy
your saying when ur MAF is bad when u hear a pop nosie while rubbing the engine?
Originally Posted by mr.mike36
misfire sometimes it can be the coils/timing chain place wrong/wrong order of spark plug wires/crankshaft sensors/or incorrect assembling crankshaft,that all i can think of 4 now
str8bucking, use the "Edit Post" feature...it works wonders
1990 Jetta VR6
Certified money pit and driveway queen.™
This thread is degrading in quality. Incorrect crankshaft assembly??? WTF? Wrong order of sparkplug wires...we are a bit beyond this since the car would not even run correctly with incorrect plug wire order.Originally Posted by str8bucking
Many have already gone to the dealer for this and no results. I personally have spoken to three mechanics about the issue and they are stumped aside from coils, crank/cam position sensors, and fuel pressure issues. Other than that, the dealer knows nothing more than we do.<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by dmurray14
Honestly, no one knows for certain right now. No reason to go shooting down people's ideas if we haven't tried it first. The quickest answer would probably be to take our cars to the dealer, but that's not what we're doing, we're experimenting. So let's give each idea a thought and not cross it off right away...
Sidvicious - I'm hesitant to think that the computer KNOWS about whatever is causing this issue, as I think it would cause a major CEL if it was something it could monitor. Instead, I think it's something the computer can't (or for some reason isn't able to) monitor.
Prophecy - I think you need to clean your ICV. Sounds like that's it for you...
Dan
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Whoever is thinking of giving up...if your compression test comes back fine, then the issue is a simple component of the car that more than likely will be a minimal expense. Process of elimination, if it doesn't fix it, it is something else.
"If ignorance is bliss, than wipe the smile off my face."- The great Zack De La Rocha, Rage Against the Machine
Having the same problem.. kinda. My car will speed up fine but when it hits 4500 to 5000 rpms up it feels like the engine is not gettin enough fuel. I've changed my spark plugs and fuel filter. While changing the fuel filter did help, the problem is back. I'm also getting a code that says the maf sensor is no good... but i don't wanna spend 300$$$ on one :\. I just hope someone finds the solution for this prob.
List of parts that have been changed/cleaned? THis will help to weed through this long thread and try out the components that havent been changed instead of changing a part that somebody else has already...... Have seen a few people change out things that have already been mentioned in this thread such as the O2 and MAF sensor.
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