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Thread: The OFFICIAL bogging, hesitating, no acceleration from idle thread

  1. #726
    Join Date
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    St Paul, Minnesota
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    691
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    '02 330i, '07 SV650N
    Is that the head gasket kit from BavAuto?

    EDIT: Page 30 ownerages.
    Last edited by Spood; 03-24-2006 at 10:34 PM.

  2. #727
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Denver, CO
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    1984 BMW 325e
    It's starting to look like multiple problems cause similar symptoms, meaning there wont be a "be all, end all" solution to this thread!!!!

    This thread could go on for...infinity!

  3. #728
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    '02 330i, '07 SV650N
    Quote Originally Posted by NASAg03
    It's starting to look like multiple problems cause similar symptoms, meaning there wont be a "be all, end all" solution to this thread!!!!

    This thread could go on for...infinity!
    That's what I've been starting to think for the past couple days. We just need a procedure.

  4. #729
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    Fairfax, Va/Columbus, OH
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    Crackwhores
    Quote Originally Posted by 1994325is
    well after replacing those rubber pieces on the top end all of the gaskets come with the kit from bavauto.com, mine runs beutifully, no hesitation whatsoever..final cost $300 ish that is with out labor cause i did all of the work myself. Well i am off to go drive my car!
    what exactly did you fix?

  5. #730
    Join Date
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    Antioch, TN
    Posts
    68
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    90 300zx NA, 92 325i
    Quote Originally Posted by Necrodomis
    what exactly did you fix?
    I think hes talking about the valve cover gasket

    Man 30 pages of nothing. We should get a reward or somethin.
    1990 Nissan 300zx NA Auto, 1992 BMW 325i Manual


  6. #731
    Join Date
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    las vegas, nevada
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    diiiirta thirrrta!
    well my car stoped doing the boggin and the hesitation but still a little rpm dancing checking the valve cover tomorrow and i am sure that i have an exhaust leak $$300 dollars for a freakin valve cover gasket or does the include the coil connectors.

  7. #732
    Join Date
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    Queen Mary's Land (MD)
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    08 328i|01 530i|96 328s
    Quote Originally Posted by Jdizzle318
    well my car stoped doing the boggin and the hesitation but still a little rpm dancing checking the valve cover tomorrow and i am sure that i have an exhaust leak $$300 dollars for a freakin valve cover gasket or does the include the coil connectors.
    The valve cover gasket kit includes pulg gaskets too. I only spent about $40 including new plastic grommets.
    ~Phil
    Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001

    1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
    3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
    CCA Member #382557

  8. #733
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    2005 X5 4.4is
    I think he replaced the rubber boots coming from the coils.

  9. #734
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    anyone working on it now? I need to figure this out this week on my spring break. I am going to go through everything again and check it all.

  10. #735
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    I have reason to believe that it is being caused by the MAF

    I cleaned my sensor and my car ran like a beast but then it came back, so my guess is something is wrong with it, I will most likely buy a new one here soon and try that and I will let you guys know how that goes.

  11. #736
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Miami, Fl
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    92 325i 5speed
    My cat just went out so imma have to replace that soon and hope it's the only culprit. I've already replaced my MAF so it shouldn't be that for me. I've had my cat in my mind lately but due to personal issues haven't been able to replace it even tho it wasn't rattling. Now i have no excuse ^_^

    Seemingly i'm under the impression that it could occur because of a compliment of problems, a group of them that compliment each other that creates said problem.

    I know my cat is part of the problem, my entire cooling system, only thing left to replace if i'm overheating would be the HG. I have new plugs, a new MAF, and a few other things i can't remember off the top of my head, but i'm sure an o2 sensor could also be adding to this problem.

  12. #737
    Join Date
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    08 328i|01 530i|96 328s
    UGH, in the past 3 weeks I have:

    Replaced VCG
    Replaced Spark Plug gaskets
    Replaced Spark Plugs
    Replaced O2 sensors
    Replaced T-stat w/ 75 degree (fdm)
    Replaced Coolant Hoses; Upper, Lower & Overlow tank
    Replaced Coolant Level Sensor
    Replaced Fan Swtich to lower temp model (fdm)
    Installed Zionsville Aluminum Radiator (fdm)
    Replaced VANOS Solenoid
    Replaced Intake Boot
    Replaced a few dried out Vac lines w/ Silicone
    Cleaned TB
    Adjusted Throttel Cables
    Removed Mechanical Fan(fdm)

    Car idles fine, sometimes revs(maybe ICV)but I still have NO low end. I am getting these codes w/ peake tool:

    - Vanos Solenoid
    - Vanos Mechanically Stuck
    - Misfire Cyl. 4
    - Misfire Cyl. 5
    - Misfire Cyl. 6
    - O2 sensor beyond adaptation, bank 1
    - O2 sensor beyond adaptation, bank 2

    HELP!!!! I used Anti-Seize on the Plugs, is that a ? I read on Pelican AFTER the car was back together it may cause grounding issues.

    ~Phil
    Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001

    1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
    3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
    CCA Member #382557

  13. #738
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Portland, Maine
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    92 325i, 2002 Honda Superhawk VTR1000
    Quote Originally Posted by a32guy
    You realize the chain cannot physically stretch enough for anything to happen, and the guide (on the right in the picture) just keeps the chain streight. The bottom end is constantly keeping tension on it because the motor turns over (clockwise if your looking at this picture). The timing chain tensioner and worn guides will not allow for a change of timing in the head. It just provides a bit more slack on the left which the timing chain tensioner was designed to make up for. That would be a terribly engineered motor if the whole valvetrain relied on a timing chain tensioner to keep constant cam timing.



    -Chris
    Good thinking, but it still happens. First, the chain can stretch enough for changes to occur, just picture that chain in the picture being 4mm longer but the same amount of links between gears...BIG change my friend. See the guide on the right, when that has deep groves from excessive wear, also picture the affect on that cam gear when the chain goes from a slight bend, to straight. Put chain stretch and guide wear together and you have a serious issue. It doesn't take much change to noticably affect cam timing here. In your case ALL engines are poorly designed whether or not they are chain or belt driven cams because they all completely rely on a tensioner of some sort to keep the belt/chain tight. That is why these things have service intervals and the guides are replaceable. If it didn't matter BMW would not recommend service. This solution is a last resort anyway since it is a PITA but still remains a logical choice.

    I would have to agree that this is becoming a symptom with multiple causes for everyone. I replaced the factory chip in my DME and between my repair a few pages ago, I really can't get my car to hesitate much anymore. I did find that the hose coming out from my RX7 fuel pump was all fudged up and that helped my top end...hehe.

    This thread is depressing....

  14. #739
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    Florida, Earth
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    1993 325is
    well I starting digging parts out the other night and got to the ICV. I found out I originally put the camshaft position sensor plug into the ICV, and the wire from the harness that was supposed to go to the ICV was plugged into the TPS CPS plug. I did it in an hour when BMW needed 7-10 hours to figure it out. The original idle surge was from like 800-1500rpm revving. Thats completely gone now after i fixed the sensors. It's really like driving a completely different car now, or like driving the car before it got warmed up. Now it drives like it did when it was cold the whole time, it has power in the low rpm's no matter how warm it gets. But now I notice another surge at idle. This one is more like 400-800rpm and it only happens occasionally, where as the previous surge was constant once it got warmed up.. Is this the sort of surge you all are experiencing?

  15. #740
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    southern california
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    R53
    Quote Originally Posted by LuvMy328is
    UGH, in the past 3 weeks I have:

    Replaced VCG
    Replaced Spark Plug gaskets
    Replaced Spark Plugs
    Replaced O2 sensors
    Replaced T-stat w/ 75 degree (fdm)
    Replaced Coolant Hoses; Upper, Lower & Overlow tank
    Replaced Coolant Level Sensor
    Replaced Fan Swtich to lower temp model (fdm)
    Installed Zionsville Aluminum Radiator (fdm)
    Replaced VANOS Solenoid
    Replaced Intake Boot
    Replaced a few dried out Vac lines w/ Silicone
    Cleaned TB
    Adjusted Throttel Cables
    Removed Mechanical Fan(fdm)

    Car idles fine, sometimes revs(maybe ICV)but I still have NO low end. I am getting these codes w/ peake tool:

    - Vanos Solenoid
    - Vanos Mechanically Stuck
    - Misfire Cyl. 4
    - Misfire Cyl. 5
    - Misfire Cyl. 6
    - O2 sensor beyond adaptation, bank 1
    - O2 sensor beyond adaptation, bank 2

    HELP!!!! I used Anti-Seize on the Plugs, is that a ? I read on Pelican AFTER the car was back together it may cause grounding issues.

    ~Phil
    all i know is that anti-seize doesn't do good on the plugs.

  16. #741
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Queen Mary's Land (MD)
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    08 328i|01 530i|96 328s
    I took them back out and cleaned the threads
    ~Phil
    Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001

    1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
    3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
    CCA Member #382557

  17. #742
    Join Date
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    E36, WRX
    Quote Originally Posted by prophecy
    well I starting digging parts out the other night and got to the ICV. I found out I originally put the camshaft position sensor plug into the ICV, and the wire from the harness that was supposed to go to the ICV was plugged into the TPS CPS plug. I did it in an hour when BMW needed 7-10 hours to figure it out. The original idle surge was from like 800-1500rpm revving. Thats completely gone now after i fixed the sensors. It's really like driving a completely different car now, or like driving the car before it got warmed up. Now it drives like it did when it was cold the whole time, it has power in the low rpm's no matter how warm it gets. But now I notice another surge at idle. This one is more like 400-800rpm and it only happens occasionally, where as the previous surge was constant once it got warmed up.. Is this the sort of surge you all are experiencing?
    So to cure your hesitation problem, you corrected the CPS and ISV plugs? Hmm I wonder if it could be the CPS after all. Would the engine run if I were to simply unplug it?

  18. #743
    Join Date
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    UK
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    1997 328 i Sport
    it shouldnt start without it.
    2.8L Club Member 219

  19. #744
    Join Date
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    South Jersey
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    Quote Originally Posted by a32guy
    So to cure your hesitation problem, you corrected the CPS and ISV plugs? Hmm I wonder if it could be the CPS after all. Would the engine run if I were to simply unplug it?
    IIRC, he also rebuilt the head...
    Dan

  20. #745
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silvbullit
    Good thinking, but it still happens. First, the chain can stretch enough for changes to occur, just picture that chain in the picture being 4mm longer but the same amount of links between gears...BIG change my friend. See the guide on the right, when that has deep groves from excessive wear, also picture the affect on that cam gear when the chain goes from a slight bend, to straight. Put chain stretch and guide wear together and you have a serious issue. It doesn't take much change to noticably affect cam timing here. In your case ALL engines are poorly designed whether or not they are chain or belt driven cams because they all completely rely on a tensioner of some sort to keep the belt/chain tight. That is why these things have service intervals and the guides are replaceable. If it didn't matter BMW would not recommend service. This solution is a last resort anyway since it is a PITA but still remains a logical choice.

    I would have to agree that this is becoming a symptom with multiple causes for everyone. I replaced the factory chip in my DME and between my repair a few pages ago, I really can't get my car to hesitate much anymore. I did find that the hose coming out from my RX7 fuel pump was all fudged up and that helped my top end...hehe.

    This thread is depressing....
    OK, fine, but here's what doesn't make sense. All of our problems are temperature dependant - they don't occur when the car is cold. I would imagine a stretched chain would be stretched all the time, and therefore the effects would be present all the time, but this is not the case, is it?

    Dan
    Dan

  21. #746
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    '02 330i, '07 SV650N
    Quote Originally Posted by dmurray14
    OK, fine, but here's what doesn't make sense. All of our problems are temperature dependant - they don't occur when the car is cold. I would imagine a stretched chain would be stretched all the time, and therefore the effects would be present all the time, but this is not the case, is it?

    Dan
    What about when it's running in open-loop?

    Also, is the crank or camshaft position sensor theory still supported by the temp-dependent part?

  22. #747
    Join Date
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    08 328i|01 530i|96 328s
    Mine is also after the car warms up AND I am getting a Peake code for "Vanos Mechanically Jammed"
    ~Phil
    Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001

    1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
    3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
    CCA Member #382557

  23. #748
    Join Date
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    328is, kawasaki 636, 300C
    Mine is officially fixed. After checking all the coils, flushing the engine oil, seafoaming the motor and changing the plugs my hesitation is completely gone. In fact my idle is so smooth that I sometimes have to look at the tach just to see if my car is still running. I think it was just neglect on my part and the spark plugs fixed the issue.
    "Ruthless like the coupe"

  24. #749
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spood
    What about when it's running in open-loop?

    Also, is the crank or camshaft position sensor theory still supported by the temp-dependent part?
    Well, IIRC, open loop switches to closed at about 1/4 of the way through the temp gauge. This isn't necessarily when my bogging occurs. In fact, if I baby the car and drive like Puss McBuss, it will be fine well into the 12 o'clock position. As soon as I get on it, it goes to crap. This leads me to believe it has nothing to do with open/closed loop, but I can't be certain.

    Dan
    Dan

  25. #750
    Join Date
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    Florida, Earth
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    1993 325is
    Quote Originally Posted by a32guy
    So to cure your hesitation problem, you corrected the CPS and ISV plugs? Hmm I wonder if it could be the CPS after all. Would the engine run if I were to simply unplug it?
    The engine runs without it plugged in. mine was plugged into the ICV originally, which is essentially not plugged in, then it was unplugged at BMW. I only had the CEL for the ICV issue. Also, my 400-800rpm idle is not temperature dependent. it happens occasionally at any temperature. After a few surges it seems to flatten out at about 600-700rpm ish

    Quote Originally Posted by dmurray14
    IIRC, he also rebuilt the head...
    i didnt rebuild the head i dont think? just replaced the head gasket and had a valve job done and cleaned the muck out while i was at it.. the hesitation problem didnt exist before starting this job, only after i put it back together and crossed the CPS/ICV wires. once those were fixed, the hesitation went away, as mentioned before, as far as the lack of power at low rpm, all seems to be back to normal.. probably since the CPS is plugged into the right spot now..

    another thing, i can hear the loud kind of metal on metal rattling sound when i have the hood open. its coming from the front of the valve cover at the vanos unit. it sounds like the chain is hitting the top of the cover. not sure how this could be happening?
    Last edited by prophecy; 03-27-2006 at 09:37 AM.

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