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Thread: The OFFICIAL bogging, hesitating, no acceleration from idle thread

  1. #51
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    I have the same thing going on with my car.

    Since I'm getting M3 cams . . . the valve cover gasket will be covered.

    I cleaned the ICV twice and going to do the fuel filter when I swap to the suspension. We also replaced knock sensors and check for other vacuum leaks. . . .

    So far everything is checking out as good. . . .

    We'll see what happens. . . .
    -=PJ
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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by atlantisvip
    Did you already change your o2 sensor ?
    When I order the coils Im going to do the O2 at the same time. Forgot to add that.

    -Serge

  3. #53
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    bmw 325i
    Subscribed. My car is having the same problems. It accelerates very roughly/hesitantly from a stop but when you get around 3K rpms it all of a sudden runs normal. Im losing my patience with this, keep this thread alive so we can try to diagnose the problem.

    1992 BMW 325i
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  4. #54
    static667's Avatar
    static667 is offline Harmful. Possibly fatal. BMW CCA Member
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    I changed my valve cover gasket and it didn't do anything to help. Not long ago I did the main O2 sensor and not much changed. With the crank sensor, you don't always have to replace it. Basicly all it is is a magnet that interacts with another magnet on the crankshaft and sends out a signal. Most of the time you can just take the sensor out and clean off all of the collected metal shavings to get better recption between the crank and the sensor. I'm going to clean mine the next time I put it in the air to change the oil, which should be soon. I'll post the results if I can.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by static667
    I changed my valve cover gasket and it didn't do anything to help. Not long ago I did the main O2 sensor and not much changed. With the crank sensor, you don't always have to replace it. Basicly all it is is a magnet that interacts with another magnet on the crankshaft and sends out a signal. Most of the time you can just take the sensor out and clean off all of the collected metal shavings to get better recption between the crank and the sensor. I'm going to clean mine the next time I put it in the air to change the oil, which should be soon. I'll post the results if I can.
    Where is it, and how do you clean it?

    Thanks,
    Dan
    Dan

  6. #56
    static667's Avatar
    static667 is offline Harmful. Possibly fatal. BMW CCA Member
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    Its right below the knock sensor, by the starter. Get a can of carb and choke cleaner. Clean the metal shavings off with a paper towel then carefully spray the end of the sensor with the cleaner (try not to soak the connections and electronics) and wipe it off.

  7. #57
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    Check your coil pack boots.. I used a volt/ohms reader to check resistance.. One of them was very high.. Im not sure how exactly all this works but I know the lower the number the better.. No more bad idle at start up..

  8. #58
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    im so glad im finshed with this problem. guys its deff electrical. you're gettin bad signals from somewhere.

    i recommend when the problem is occuring. if you have the time, pull over and play around with different sensors in the engine bay. apply pressure, wiggle, tap different plugs.

    then check and see if the car runs normally. try narrowing it down that way. tahts what i did and founs out my crank sensor was bad.

    good luck

    mike

  9. #59
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    1995 E36 Euro M3
    hey guys,
    i have a late 1991 320i.
    i recently had a stroker kit put on, bigger injectors, 328 cams, and a few other mods.
    this bogging problem is quite evident in mine but only happens when it is a hot day. in the cool weather it is perfectly fine. it is only up until about 3k rpm that it bogs down then it seems fine and pulls like normal. this leads me to believe it is a sensor of some sort. some sort of air sensor perhaps?
    if anyone could shed some light on the issue it would be great because summer is fast approaching and i hate the frutrating problem of not being able to take off quickly and then all of a sudden launching off. it feels like turbo lag in a WRX or something, terrible problem.....

  10. #60
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    2007 550i
    Hey guys

    I had the same problem with my 92 325i real bad hesitation, but it went away after 3k rpm. I just chandes the O2 sensor and no more hesitation.Perfectly smooth from idle to redlineline now. Hope this helps

  11. #61
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    Hey guys,

    I tested my vanos this weekend. At first I was getting 5 mm of travel, but after cycling it on and off a few times, I was getting 8mm of travel. (Minimum is 8.5mm).

    Funny thing is, after I put it all back together and drove it, the car drove GREAT. It rev'ed quicker, had much more power all around, and even sounded more aggressive. I drove around for 15 - 20 minutes. After I came home, I showered, and went out again. Same old problem. Sluggish reving, slow response, and no power until 4k.

    I'm thinking the vanos unit is sticking when it gets heated up. I'm tempted to try testing it with a hot motor, but its tough to work on a hot motor. I also might try putting a probe on the signal wire to the solenoid to see if the DME is sending it the right signals. It may not even be sending it a signal when the coolant temp warms up to a certain temperature, right? This could be why it runs great when cold.

    Either way I took some video since I figured most of you were curious to see vanos in action
    Video: http://media.putfile.com/MOV00478

    -Chris

  12. #62
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    Cool video...

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  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by a32guy
    Hey guys,

    I tested my vanos this weekend. At first I was getting 5 mm of travel, but after cycling it on and off a few times, I was getting 8mm of travel. (Minimum is 8.5mm).

    Funny thing is, after I put it all back together and drove it, the car drove GREAT. It rev'ed quicker, had much more power all around, and even sounded more aggressive. I drove around for 15 - 20 minutes. After I came home, I showered, and went out again. Same old problem. Sluggish reving, slow response, and no power until 4k.

    I'm thinking the vanos unit is sticking when it gets heated up. I'm tempted to try testing it with a hot motor, but its tough to work on a hot motor. I also might try putting a probe on the signal wire to the solenoid to see if the DME is sending it the right signals. It may not even be sending it a signal when the coolant temp warms up to a certain temperature, right? This could be why it runs great when cold.

    Either way I took some video since I figured most of you were curious to see vanos in action
    Video: http://media.putfile.com/MOV00478

    -Chris
    Nice vid, thanks! How exactly does the tool work? How do you measure travel? I guess this means your vanos needs replacing?

    Thanks,
    Dan
    Dan

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmurray14
    Nice vid, thanks! How exactly does the tool work?
    Well thank you. It goes in place of the oil hose that provides oil pressure to the vanos unit. Basicly your substituting compressed air for oil pressure.




    Quote Originally Posted by dmurray14
    How do you measure travel?
    Vernier calipers. Measure open, record. Measure closed, record. Subtract difference. Difference should be at least 8.5mm.




    Quote Originally Posted by dmurray14
    I guess this means your vanos needs replacing?

    Thanks,
    Dan
    Not really sure yet Dan. Yes it should be moving a bit more, but I don't know if .5 mm would make that much of a difference. Like I said I want to try testing it again while hot (gonna be tough tho). And also install a probe at the electrical connector to see when its getting +12v. Kinda sucks I can only do things on the weekends, oh well.

    -Chris

  15. #65
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    97' 318i Sedan
    I'm having this similar problem with my 318i M44. I was looking through the Bentley and noticed that, at least on my engine, there is something called a DISA I believe. Basically the Intake Manifold is dual/quad chambered and there is a valve that at between 4760 RPM and 4840 RPM it opens & closes to allow flow through either the dual or quad depending on which end of 4800 you are on. I know from my problem and reading about everyone elses this is occuring more around the 3k range. Just curious if maybe this has something to do with it. Like if the valve is partially stuck open. From reading the Bentley if this thing starts to fail it opens up fulls and you low end is really crappy. Might be something to check into. I'm honestly mechanically retarded, and just trying to learn what I can. Just thought I'd throw something out there since this seems to be a hard problem to fix.

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by pantherjkh
    4760 RPM and 4840 RPM i.
    thats a high RPM on a 4 banger. i dont think it has to do with that cause most people are having these problems under normal driving conditions.

    mike

  17. #67
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    Read the whole post... if this part is not working the valve stays open and it will run like crap on the lower RPM range. Just a possibility since some people are running out of options.

  18. #68
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    Update:

    I took a drive and I really like the new S50 cams

    The car still ran really sluggish like before . . . we ran just about every test my mechanic could come up with. . .Nothing, zip, goose egg, zero problems showed up.

    Well tried cleaning the ICV again. . .that didn't help . . . We swapped out the Mass Air meter and VIOLA!!! No stumbling idle, no surging, and good smooth running from idle to 7200

    Now I know that it may be long shot. . .but it might be worth trying. . . . I will report any changes if they occur

    [OT]
    For all those who wonder what a 325 feels like with S50 cam AND software . . . it feels just like an E30M3 S14 . . .you have usable power at lower RPMs then when 4K hits it like new engine! Engine note changes, the car grows horns, the tach sweeps by quickly . . .A TOTALLY different car. . . .Is there more power in the lower RPM range . . .yes. . .but with the BIG HIT @ 4K it SEEMS like you loss something in the low RPM range

    I give this ugrade . If you got the cheese to do it. . . DO IT
    [/OT]
    -=PJ
    Strike Zero's Garage
    ==================================================
    2006 SCR-SCCA Street Mod Champion
    1982 Toyota Corolla
    1988 Volvo 780
    1993 BMW 318is: Gas Sipper
    1993 BMW 325is => 350is: Track Rat
    1994 BMW 530i + 5spd
    1997 BMW 740i: Hwy Killah!!
    1998 Honda VFR800FI: Gear Driven Cam Goodness
    2000 Dodge Dakota: V8 + 5spd = Smokey Fun
    2000 Lincoln LS V6 5spd
    2004 Pontiac GTO - RIP
    2005 Cadillac CTS-V
    ==================================================
    "If not under warranty, live with it, or bend over and grab ankles."

  19. #69
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    Lately I notice a slight bog down of power for a split second around 4k-5000rpms while pretty much full throttle..

    What could this be?
    -Robert

    97 BMW 328is - cosmos blk/blk - 2door - 5speed - sport package

    Shark Injector - Cosmos Racing CAI - UUC Clutch Stop - UUC Underdrive Pulleys - UUC Delrin Shift Carrier Bushings - UUC SS Clutch Line - UUC TME Red - UUC Stainless Steel Brake Lines - MZ3 SSK - Bilstein Sport Shocks - Eibach Prokit Springs - 96+ M3 Offset Strut Mounts(swapped) - 96+ M3 Rear Sway Bar -
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  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ325i
    Update:

    I took a drive and I really like the new S50 cams

    The car still ran really sluggish like before . . . we ran just about every test my mechanic could come up with. . .Nothing, zip, goose egg, zero problems showed up.

    Well tried cleaning the ICV again. . .that didn't help . . . We swapped out the Mass Air meter and VIOLA!!! No stumbling idle, no surging, and good smooth running from idle to 7200

    Now I know that it may be long shot. . .but it might be worth trying. . . . I will report any changes if they occur

    [OT]
    For all those who wonder what a 325 feels like with S50 cam AND software . . . it feels just like an E30M3 S14 . . .you have usable power at lower RPMs then when 4K hits it like new engine! Engine note changes, the car grows horns, the tach sweeps by quickly . . .A TOTALLY different car. . . .Is there more power in the lower RPM range . . .yes. . .but with the BIG HIT @ 4K it SEEMS like you loss something in the low RPM range

    I give this ugrade . If you got the cheese to do it. . . DO IT
    [/OT]

    Good test, thanks...

    Does anyone know if a 96+ MAF will work in a 92-95? Or are they different because of OBDII?

    Dan
    Dan

  21. #71
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    They are different.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmurray14
    Good test, thanks...

    Does anyone know if a 96+ MAF will work in a 92-95? Or are they different because of OBDII?

    Dan

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmurray14
    Good test, thanks...

    Does anyone know if a 96+ MAF will work in a 92-95? Or are they different because of OBDII?

    Dan
    I had bought one for my 92 from a 95 I think it was.. It had 6 prongs while mine only has 4..

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by a32guy
    Well thank you. It goes in place of the oil hose that provides oil pressure to the vanos unit. Basicly your substituting compressed air for oil pressure.






    Vernier calipers. Measure open, record. Measure closed, record. Subtract difference. Difference should be at least 8.5mm.






    Not really sure yet Dan. Yes it should be moving a bit more, but I don't know if .5 mm would make that much of a difference. Like I said I want to try testing it again while hot (gonna be tough tho). And also install a probe at the electrical connector to see when its getting +12v. Kinda sucks I can only do things on the weekends, oh well.

    -Chris
    Chris,

    Any updates on your VANOS? I for one am eagerly awaiting your diagnosis...


    Thanks,
    Dan
    Dan

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmurray14
    Chris,

    Any updates on your VANOS? I for one am eagerly awaiting your diagnosis...


    Thanks,
    Dan
    Dan,

    Not really unfortunately. I tried bidding on an m3 vanos on ebay but got outbid. I'll keep my eyes peeled. I had thought I was going to do an s52 swap in the summer but I realized it'd be more cost effective for what I want to do, to just buy an m3. (Which won't happen for a while). To make sense of my rambling, I will be much more focused on fixing this hesitation problem. I want this problem gone as I will be keeping the m50. If I have to bring the car to BMW and have them just diagnose it, I will.

    -Chris

  25. #75
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    Sounds good... look forward to hearing the diagnosis. Please keep us updated!

    Thanks!

    Dan
    Dan

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