If the ball is inserted into the slider correctly it will make a very loud POP when it goes in. If it doesn't pop then the locking pin wont hold it in. It takes a lot of force to make it pop. Ive use pliers before but they can damge stuff.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Is your plastic slider broken, because that would cause it to dislodge. I imagine that you checked the track and that you lubricated the sliders. The clips can be had at e-bay for eight dollars.
i know this is an old thread but does anyone know where to get a window motor for a 92 coupe?
Hey Guys, I barely joined the forums
I have a Huge annoying window problem
I own a 94' 325is Coupe
My driver side window doesnt seem to go all the way
the window rolls all the way down but when it goes up it leaves about 1/4 of an inch for it to be completely rolled all the way up and when i drive on the freeway wind comes in and gives me an annoying whistle of air.
I'm aware that the BMW has a feature that when you open the door the window goes down a bit and when you close it, the window goes back all the way up, but my passenger side is the only one that does it, not my driver side.
Im thinking either my regulator scissor arms are bent and won't go all the way up or my motor doesnt isnt able to roll my windows all the way up...I NEED HELP BADLY
Looking at the plastic latch\catch on the Body of the car, you sill see a small button in the middle. With your windows up as far as they go and your door open, press this button with your finger. The glass should go up all the way. If this works then its time to replace that latch or maybe cheat like I have by adding a dot of very strong epoxy.
When installing the regulator back, are you guys using new rivets? or are they not 100% necessary?
Don't use rivets. You'll never get them as tight as OEM or as strong. They will just get loose over time
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
First post for a new member but i have been viewing this site for a while.
I am finishing up my door swap on my 93 325is coupe. The swap went smooth and the motor/assembly was easy to swap. except im stuck trying to get my handle trim off the old door
Drill out the rivits with a 1/4" drill bit. perfect size, they will fall out or grab some needle nose pliers and pull the top rings off.
To remove the 3 torx bolts under the regulator that attached to the motor i used a mequires bottle of wax to slide under the regulator, applying a safe amount of force to keep the regulator about 2-3" from the door giving me room to work.
The torx come out easy- remove the motor
push the window up using the track and holding the regulator in position.
once the windows up, you can push your arm into the door and install your hard ware to replace your rivits.
took me a couple hours but its easier to take your time than rush.
Last edited by Kody; 01-29-2012 at 04:52 PM.
Any window regular / motor experts I northern NJ area? I need some help diagnosing what needs to be fixed with my whacky windows. Beer for your trouble!
Even better if your help comes with spare parts at a reasonable price!
Rivots are gone so at least the shitty part is done
here are my symptoms:
Won't close the last inch or two, makes an eeerrrrrrrttttt sound and then stops
Won't go up if all the way down (issue for driving home from track events, cant pull up so I wind up pushing on the toothed arm or regular with screw driver until it started to go up. Same sound
Gets stuck going up at around 60% up, I can pull it up from there and then it goes up fine. Same sound
Goes down totally fine
Will do nothing if door is open
I found some cut wires, break is right before the grey connector in he door. I have no bentley to research it
Re: rivets, there are none there are bolts and nuts. Everything appears tight including the large bolt in the middle
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kf21nMh_oos[/ame]
let me know your thoughts
Last edited by Brent; 03-06-2012 at 05:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Good thread! As I was repairing the windows on a newly acquired 318ti I picked up, I wondered what the optimum type of grease should be used for the rails that the plastic clips ride in. I've read through this thread and others and these's no mention of the best type of grease to use.
So, what is the best type of grease and what are all the lubrication points?
for my various Bimmers, I've always used a moly based grease and have only had one re-repair on an E36. Aside from the slider rails and the arm pivot points, what else needs to be lubed?
Thanks!
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
on coupes the glass doesnt have to come out, i changed the motor and regulator arms out completely with basic tools, this is a good write up though, just trying to save some time, i rolled my window up all the way, then drilled the rivets out and then used a dremel tool to cut a shape that looks like this. * 3 lines crossing each other and then a screwdriver and hammer to chisel them off. that was the longest part, getting the motor and regulator out and the new one in and clips in place only took bout 1 because it was my first time doing it. drilling rivets was close to 2 hours i think.
Lithium Grease for metal parts, Silicone Lube for rubbery parts.
Thanks! I used that for my repair last night. Cleaned the rails the plastic sliders slide in and used new sliders.
For the passenger side, i do have an alignment issue I need to figure out as then the window is lowering, it hits a reinforcing plate about 3/5 of the way down. it dosen't hit on the way up. The window itself seems to be about 1/4" off towards the rear of the door. There seems to be 1/2" of play, front to back for the window. I'll check it again this weekend.
Last edited by BlackBMWs; 03-08-2012 at 10:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
Hi all,
I'm kinda picking up where a few posts about non-functioning window controls (which went largely unanswered) left off.
A week or so ago, my driver's side window stopped cooperating. Pressing the up or down buttons only produced a clicking noise, but no actual movement of the window. It was stuck in the fully UP position.
Today, I decided to take the door apart and take a look. After some unsuccessful poking around, I took the back of the metal motor housing off, and found a bunch of metal dust. I blew the housing and the armature off, then used the armature to roll down the window manually half-way.
Put the housing back on, turned the ignition key, and pushed the UP button (in an attempt to re-initialize the window system as described in this forum and the Bentley manual), but the window rolled DOWN instead. Turned out that pressing either button only resulted in a DOWNward motion of the window.
So it looked like that meant that the mechanics are ok, and the motor isn't dead...
To help me solve the puzzle, I consulted this forum and found this thread. Someone mentioned they fixed their reverse motion problem by flipping the motor housing 180 degrees. I noticed I too had re-mounted it wrong, so I flipped it. It worked. Sort of.
I an attempt to re-initialize the system again, I closed the door, pushed the UP button, and the window went up. Yay. Pushing the DOWN button however only produced that ole clicking noise - and now the window is stuck in the full UP position again, and doesn't respond to either up or down. Yupp - I'm back to square one.
Does anybody out there have even the faintest clue what's going on?
I should mention that all other windows (plus the sunroof) work flawlessly. I double-checked all fuses - even replaced the one that is connected to the door electrical system - so that's not it.
I also did some trouble-shooting by disconnecting the battery in the hopes it would reset the whole system, but no change.
I even took the driver's side door striker apart because some other forum thread suggested that the door up/down function was associated with the micro-switch in the striker. The switch looked ok, all wires were properly attached, so I don't think that's the problem.
For those thinking comfort relay - I had a problem with that last year when all windows stopped working, pulled it, resoldered, and successfully solved that problem. Since all the other windows are working, I can't imagine the relay being the problem.
So - I've still got the door in pieces, hoping this forum will produce an answer that will help me fix this problem so I can actually use my car again. Any informed thoughts/ideas/suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks!
f the window encounters a certain amount of resistance the motor will disengage, and all you will here is clicking. I suspect, sice the window can be rolled down when you flipped the assembly, that the resistance is not with the window lifting mechanism, but probablly within the motor. You could maybe try using one of your rear motors to eliminate or determine if the front one is problematic.
Bumping this thread as I found it helpful to figure out how to get the rivets out. I ended up using the procedure as described below with a 2/32" nail set. It took a couple good hits to get the center pin out, then the 1/4" drill bit made easy work of the rivet head. Took probably 3-4 minutes per rivet, since the chuck on my drill was worn
For some reason, my motor was not working at all which was why I was taking apart the regulator. I could hear it click when I hit the switch but nothing moved. Popping the rivets out, and taking the motor out (via the 3 T30 screws behind the motor) got the motor going again. I guess the impacts from the hammer loosened something up in the motor, so I just cleaned and regreased the motor and put it back in. If your motor is bad...a T30 bit and a bit ratchet are ESSENTIAL to get between the regulator and the door to unscrew the motor.
Hope that helps!
-Chris
I tried the dremel and to be honest it is miles easier getting a titanium drill bit and just drill the rivet at a slight angle and viola done.
Yes a Dremmel is nice, but with a 1/4" semi-new drill bit, I can drill out all 4 pop-rivets on a regulator in under 1 minute. I've done that now for 4 regulators, and have only wasted about 5 minutes of my life doing it. The key is, drill the center of them out quickly with an 1/8", or similar bit, then go in with the larger one. When the rivet starts to spin in the hole, drill the bit upwards at about a 45 degree angle from straight on. The rivet will turn a little, but the bit will still cut the rivet. When the drill bit starts to make a sort of binding noise, nearing the end of the rivet on the backside, back off on the pressure you're putting on the bit so that the bit does not cut all the way through, bind up, then shatter. You don't want that. Done right, the bit cuts right through the backside, and with one small tap on the rivet, it falls right out of the regulator. Easy, easy to do. The first time doing it this way made me nervous, but now I just drill right off through them. I guarantee that you could probably drill one out and move on to the next in under 20 seconds,m if everything goes smoothly. No need for expensive Dremmel cutoff wheels. BUT, you have to use a sharp drill bit, and you CANNOT use a wood cutting bit. It has to be for metal. I use these metal cutting drill bits that have a smaller v-shaped wedge at the very tip of the bit, which helps predrill a hole for the followup cutting edge for the drill bit.... looks like the bit has 2 separate cutting edges at the end of it. They work great, and cut out the rivets like slicing through warm butter....
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