Thank you for this write-up. It helped me a ton last night. I will add one thing, my motor was frozen so it was really hard to move the window from the top position, so here is how I did it. I took the metal housing off the back of the motor (4 torx screws) after I unplugged the two plugs. Then I was able to get my hands on the internals of the motor and turn it. It took a ton of turns but I was finally able to roll the window down that way and follow your procedure.
One thing to note, I did reuse my motor (not a good idea I know and I will probably be doing it again), and when I put it back together it would work in the opposite direction (down went up and up went down). I thought I was going crazy and so I unscrewed the metal motor housing and flipped it 180 degrees and bam back in business!
I regreased everything and had 2 plastic clips laying around and when I replaced them everything seemed to work fine.
Jeff
Any chance someone has the p/n for the window stops? I replaced a regulator, and sliders but can't seem to get the window to go up perfectly straight. There were no window stops in the rails per the OP's writeup so I assume they have been missing for some time now.
Thanks!
A trip to bmwfans.com or realoem.com will get you those p/ns you seek.
I would guess when someone replaced the motor or regulator they pitched those...
cheers fun2drive, but i've already checked the ETK and it's not shown
Thanks for the DIY, just got done in under 4 hrs.... had a hard time finding stainless at my local hardware store.....
Wasn't too bad!
This is how I did mine, you need to drill to the depth of the head of the rivet, then take a center punch or nail or something and stick it in there and start hammering away, the back end will fall into the door, and the punch or nail will have a new ring on it.
KEVIN
BMW CCA # 416146
Current 2001 525i-5 / 234,000 Miles
///M Weighted Shift knob.
CD43 with AUX retrofit + Bluebus
Auto Dimming Mirror upgrade
H&R Sport / Koni STR.T
OEM Xenon HID Retrofit
The Ex- 2000 540i-6 / 82,xxx miles to 186,xxx miles
CDV Free, 545i Shifter and ///M Weighted Shift knob.
Member of DSC Module Failure Club $$
does any body know were to get window stops
i need window stops for the rails does any body know were to get them. thanks
wats the part number for the hex head screws??
sorry if it was posted already not sure
good write up..i am in the middle of replacing the window motor..i had already taken regulator and old motor apart..and i am waiting for the new window motor to arrive tomorrow so i can put everything back together...
2000 BMW 528i / Manual Tranny / Sport & Premium package / Xenon headlight / Sport seats / Premium sound / DSC /
2011 BMW X3
^^^ Good luck man, hope you have a reliable beer vendor. I did this last week, grease all over my hands from lubing the rails, battling with a stubborn driver's side window, trying to align everything then hold it all together with one hand as I tried gingerly to insert the shitty nylon scissor guides with the other. Not a job I want to repeat in the near future. Not complex, just frustrating.
i have to replace my regulator
do i need the sliders? and hex bolts right
Anyone have issues finding rivets short and fat enough to hold the regulator in-place tightly? I removed the regulator and motor a few months back and used bolts, nuts and locking washers (terrible idea). I then removed it again a couple months back and couldn't find any fat rivets which weren't too long and I ended up using wide washers with a small hole(smaller then the holes in the door and regulator) behind the door and regulator to help sandwich everything in-place. It actually worked very well but if there are actually rivets which work - I would really appreciate the specs!
[QUOTE=tdrommond@hudib;7626799]Stop, Don't use a Dremel Tool to take out the rivets. Here's the right method. This is how you remote rivets from an aircraft and insure you have round holes, not figure eights...or a hacked up panel. I don't care how careful you are, that Dremel is easy to make a mess with.
As above, take off the door cover and raise the window fully. Taking a small drift punch (1/8 Dia. Max) or a finish nail setting punch, drive the steel center pin out of the rivet. One sharp rap is all it takes. These are serated locking pins, made from tool steel and designed to mechanically lock the rivet. You are not going to drill them out. The rivet is soft aluminium. The bit will wander off into the softer material and through the sheetmetal panel, leaving a figure eight or oblong hole.
Now that the centers are out, you have a perfect guide hole to drill the head of the rivet off. Using a 1/4 bit, high speed and light pressure, drill only to the depth of the head of the rivet. We are not trying to drill out the shank or butt. We don't want to re-drill the hole. Too much pressure will spin the rivet in the hole. Lean the drill slightly left or right and the rivet will catch an edge and stop. Now, very, very light pressure.
With a little side load on the drill, the head usually pops off clean at the surface. Or, using a chisel, strike the crown of the rivet, not between the rivet and the panel. The head will pop off.
Taking 3/16 drift pin, knock out the shank of the rivet. The hole is still pristine and round. Your drill never touched the panel.
This takes nearly twice as long to type as it does to do.
Hope that helps.
I finished mine today in about an hour and a half. The hardest part for me was getting all the parts clean. I used black oxide coated half-inch long 1/4 DIA button head cap screws (BHCS), cad-plated lock washers and nuts to secure the regulator and a 5/16 DIA BHCS, lock washer and nut to secure the cross brace, removing the tinnerman clip nut and the head of the fastener on the outside of the panel. There were no interferance problems and it looks like it could have come that way. It made setting the front edge of the window square much easier.
Good Luck!![/QUOTE
Drilling out the rivets was super easy. Even after some of them started spinning, some side torque or a screw driver against the edge of the rivet worked. Simplest part of the job.
heya
thanks for the write up i found it quite useful.. just a quick question on the topic. My window doesnt slide all the way up like its supposed to.. Its on the rails as it should be but as you wind it up it slides out a few mm and sticks out the passenger door a little... any ideas as to why this would be? Any help would be much appreciated..
thanks.
Venom.
I had the same problem for a bit after putting mine on. I played a bit with the closed door switch with the window up and down, stopped and in motion and eventually it figured it out. I think you need to roll the window up with the door closed.... or have it think it's closed and put your finger in the switch where the latch is, then when it's up, open the door it should move down a bit.
Im pretty sure it goes like this.... door closed, roll window all the way down, then all the way up. Open the door and it should slide down a bit
Last edited by Camarok; 08-04-2011 at 02:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
KEVIN
BMW CCA # 416146
Current 2001 525i-5 / 234,000 Miles
///M Weighted Shift knob.
CD43 with AUX retrofit + Bluebus
Auto Dimming Mirror upgrade
H&R Sport / Koni STR.T
OEM Xenon HID Retrofit
The Ex- 2000 540i-6 / 82,xxx miles to 186,xxx miles
CDV Free, 545i Shifter and ///M Weighted Shift knob.
Member of DSC Module Failure Club $$
To the OP, if you're still around, thanks for going the trouble of writing this up. It saved me a bunch of time. I have a few comments:
First, you don't need to use a dremel. I drilled out all of the rivets with a 1/4 inch bit. It only took a few minutes. A couple of the heads started to spin so I held them with pliers. You don't even need to punch out the pin.
Second, you can get bolts and nuts to replace the rivets at the dealer. Here are the part numbers:
23 Hex bolt with washer M6X10-Z1 07119915041 $0.25
22 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M6 51417053138 $0.38
Here is the page on realoem.com where I got the part numbers:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...55&hg=51&fg=10
I made the mistake of trying to do the job without having replacement nylon sliders on hand. One of them broke when I was trying to get it off so now I have to get the parts before I can finish. Oh well.
2020 M2C DCT Hockenheim Silver Metallic
What book did use to get the info on reseting the windows?
No book. Close door. Lower window, holding switch down for 6(?) seconds. Then raise window, holding switch down for 6(?) seconds. After that, everything worked fine. The instant I pull the door handle, the window drops like it should. When I close the door, the window tightens against the seal.
2020 M2C DCT Hockenheim Silver Metallic
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Although I realize it may have already been said.. I don't feel like checking if it has. I found that a hammer and nail set/punch knocked the rivets out pretty easy. The center of the rivet is like a nail and you can drive it in and the rivet just comes out. I figured this would help the people without a dremel.. or simply make it easier. I drilled out/ dremeled one rivet before I realized this and it was much easier for me.
BLAZE L'S
Some tips. For those of you with the window stuck down --remove the motor cover (4 torx) and turn the armature -- this will allow you to lower or raise the window as the armature is connected to the mechanism and spinning it will raise or lower the window. As for alignment -- take a sharp instrument and mark the position of the guides on the bottom of the door before removing them. after reassembly just put them back where they were.
Not everything that counts can be counted, and not everything that can be counted counts.
I just installed the front driver side window regulator on my 1993 740I, the end of the arm with the ball is about 1.1/2 inches away from the slider, I have to push the arm hard to insert it in to the slider and hold it in while I push in the clip over the slider, the problem I'm having is that when the window reaches half way up the arm pops out from the slider, if anyone has any input it will be apreciated.
Can I bend the arm so that it touches the slider without pushing it or that is a no no.
Thank you in advance
Wauconda
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