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Thread: Bernman's excellent adventure (warning large pictures)

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    '94 325is, '10 Striple R
    Quote Originally Posted by qidm67
    can anyone advise on installing rear springs???
    It's really really easy.

    Take off wheel. Unbolt the bottom nut on the shock. Have a friend stand on the trailing arm or brake disc, then pry the spring out. If you already have shorter springs in your car it's even easier to get them out.

  2. #52
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    Sep 2005
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    E39 525i manual sport
    Quote Originally Posted by SF E Thirty Six
    It's really really easy.

    Take off wheel. Unbolt the bottom nut on the shock. Have a friend stand on the trailing arm or brake disc, then pry the spring out. If you already have shorter springs in your car it's even easier to get them out.
    thank you for the note. I have stock springs and will be installing the BTS kit springs. I have read a few times the you can damage the cv joints and crap. Do you know about this???

    Cosmos - Black l l Lux l HK l OEM clears all around l Depo HID's 55W 5000K l Strut bar

  3. #53
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    '94 325is, '10 Striple R
    Quote Originally Posted by qidm67
    thank you for the note. I have stock springs and will be installing the BTS kit springs. I have read a few times the you can damage the cv joints and crap. Do you know about this???
    I have heard the rumor, but I think it's BS. You really don't need to push down that far to get the spring out. I can't see it causing any damage. I've never heard of anyone taking the rear springs out any other way.

  4. #54
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    E39 525i manual sport
    Quote Originally Posted by SF E Thirty Six
    I have heard the rumor, but I think it's BS. You really don't need to push down that far to get the spring out. I can't see it causing any damage. I've never heard of anyone taking the rear springs out any other way.
    cool, thanx. Do you have any reinforcement plates on the rsm or struts?

    Cosmos - Black l l Lux l HK l OEM clears all around l Depo HID's 55W 5000K l Strut bar

  5. #55
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    '94 325is, '10 Striple R
    Quote Originally Posted by qidm67
    cool, thanx. Do you have any reinforcement plates on the rsm or struts?
    I don't, but it won't hurt if you install them. I used the E46 M3 RSM. I don't drive my car that hard, so i'm not too worried about having reinforcement plates or not.

  6. #56
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    Bernmobile
    Well, that post was in 2001 when the car had about 65k miles, and the CV joints lasted until 2005 and 120k miles when they came off the car to be replaced with M3 parts. I think the CV damage is unlikely.

    I have replaced the rear control arms, axles and brakes with the M3 bits. Every part that is made for the M3 will bolt on to the 325 chassis. Some things, like the front and rear brakes require other M3 parts to go with them. Do some research on this site, you will find everything that you need to know, and some things you probably wished you didn't

    I still enjoy my 325 and plan to for many years to come. Have fun out there!

    Bernman

    Have fun

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Austin, TX
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    4/92 325i, 2001 330i
    Not sure if you're still watching this old thread but I wanted to post this...

    31 33 2 227 897 Left Upper strut bearing for M3 $80 (was sent the 96 model instead of the 95 I asked for)
    31 33 2 227 898 Right Upper strut bearing for M3 $80 (was sent the 96 model instead of the 95 I asked for)

    These part numbers ARE for the 96+.. so anyone following this thead and using his reference numbers should expect to also get 96+ parts if you order from these numbers. The 95 part number is: 31332228345 and there is only one part number that is apparently used for both sides.

    Correct me if I am wrong...

    This thread hear has a decend description of the differences in the 95 and the 96+ parts. Seems like either work but give different features/benefits.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=501292


    '92 E36 non-Vanos. 140K miles, too many original parts, on blocks in my garage.
    '01 E46, 110K, purchased Aug 2010, so far so good.

  8. #58
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    Nov 2006
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    Driver Wanted... and found it!
    I knew it, them Bilsteins, ahhhh!
    Quote Originally Posted by Bernman View Post
    ...or, How to make your 325 "M-like"

    I will start with the parts.

    31 12 1 140 957 Left Control arm for 325 $72
    31 12 1 140 958 Right Control arm for 325 $72
    31 12 9 064 875 Offset control arm bushing set $40
    31 35 1 090 268 Sway bar bushing for 25.5mm 325 bar $4 (need 2)
    31 33 2 227 897 Left Upper strut bearing for M3 $80 (was sent the 96 model instead of the 95 I asked for)
    31 33 2 227 898 Right Upper strut bearing for M3 $80 (was sent the 96 model instead of the 95 I asked for)
    31 33 1 115 983 Washer $1 (need 2)
    31 33 1 128 523 Front spring cushion $4 (need 2)
    33 52 1 092 362 Rear shock mount $12 (need 2)
    VE3-4237 Bilstein strut for 95 M3 $155
    VE3-4238 Bilstein strut for 95 M3 $155
    BE5-2453 Bilstein rear shock for M3 $101 (need 2)
    29910 H&R spring set for 95 M3 $225 (comes with upper spring plates and cushions)
    Assorted nuts and bolts $20
    Bridgestone RE730 $474

    Total parts $1617

    Total labor $180 ($23/tire for mount, balance, disposal. $88 for "special" alignment...tweaked the camber)

    Grand total $1797

    You can see my notes on why I went with these part in this thread:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&threadid=2992

    Installation

    There were many more pictures that could have been taken (and I do have more, just not so interesting), but when things got tough, I tended to stay with the job and not take a break to grab the camera. Hopefully I have enough here to give some insight to the job.

    I started with the front suspension.

    Jacking from the center crossmember may not be an approved place, but it was the only way I had to be able to get two jackstands at the proper points under the doors.

    Jacking the front

    Once the car was securely on the jackstands, I went to work getting the old struts out. When removing the struts, make sure you support the hub/brake assembly.

    Supporting the strut

    As you can see, I made due with some soft rope. There are three bolts at the bottom of the strut that attach to the hub assembly. Two of these were very difficult to remove. They had some kind of locking compound on them, on top of which I could not get good leverage on the wrench. Once you have the bottom bolts out, you can remove the top three bolts that hold the strut to the car and pull the strut free.

    With the strut out of the way, I started on the control arm. The control arm is held in place with two ball joints and a bushing at the rear. I started by removing the sway bar to have better access to the ball joints. The outer one is pretty easy to remove. Remove the nut at the top, and hammer in a tie rod remover (Sears, $15). The inner joint was a little more difficult. There was no way to get a socket on the nut without removing other parts on the engine. It is a 22mm locking nut, but fortunately a 7/8 open end wrench fit perfectly. It takes a while, but eventually it came off. Whacked it out with the tie rod remover after getting the nut off. The last part was to unbolt the bushing carrier, and the control arm is free.

    I had to get the old bushing out of the carrier before installing the new one. I started by cutting the rubber away from the bushing leaving the metal sleeve in the carrier.

    Bushing carrier

    This is one of those places where more pictures would have been nice, but it was one of those struggling/cursing times that the camera stayed on the table. Once the carrier was free, I used a hacksaw to carefully cut the outside metal band of the bushing. I didn't want to touch the carrier with the saw since that would put a cut into it making a weak point. Cutting the band released the pressure holding the bushing sleeve in place, and it slipped right out. Putting the new bushing in was a chore since, as most people, I don't have a hydralic press at home. I made do with some spray lubricant and careful use of a bench vise. The bushing is a little wider than the carrier, so I used this tool behind the carrier and pushed it through so the bushing was even on both sides of the carrier.

    Home made bushing tool

    I could have made it out of wood and it would have been fine, but I didn't know what to expect so I made this up ahead of time to help with the bushing install. The bushing is 60mm in diameter, so the hole is 60.5mm and the press part (which I didn't really need) is 59.5.

    The hard parts are done, it's mostly smooth sledding from here on. Here is a picture of the new control arm parts ready to be installed. Pushing the bushing onto the control arm takes some doing. The Bentley manual tells you to use a special lube, and then get the parts put back together and resting on the ground in 30 mins...not a chance. Not only did I not have the lube, but there was no way the car was going to be on its wheels in a half hour. I slobbered some Dawn (dishwashing soap) on the control arm and in the bushing, and pushed them together. It was tough, but it went on.

    New control arm parts

    I used the torque wrench where I could, but the inner ball joints could only get a wrench, so they got the "as tight as I can" treatment. They are locking nuts, and the ball joint is held with a taper so they should be fine. The taper, and the ball joint shaft must be clean or they won't stay together as well. When installed, here is what the new control arm bushings look like.

    Control arms installed

    After the control arms are in, I installed the new struts. Aren't Bilsteins just too sexy?

    Bitchin yellow struts

    The rest of the front is bolt-together. Got the wheels back on, moved the tools out of the way, and put my wife's car back in the garage. Quick shower to get some of the dirt off and crawled in bed at 2AM.

    The next morning I tackled the rear. As I anticipated, this was much easier. Jack up the rear, and put the jackstands under the door spot again.

    Jacking the rear

    To get to the top of the shock, you have to pull the trunk liner away. I lowered the seat backs and pulled the side bolsters off. A good stiff yank at the top and they come off. There is a plastic cover across the opening that is held in place with some push-in fasteners. Remove this, and the fasteners holding the liner to the body, and you can see the top of the shock.

    Accessing the shock tower nuts

    I supported the rear control arm with the jack and removed the bottom shock bolt then released the jack letting the control arm hang. Remove the two shock tower nuts and the shock is free. Getting the spring out, and back in, is a little tough for one person. I was able to do it using a pole as a lever that I could push on with my leg while pulling the spring out. That was the hardest part of the rear install, but it was not too bad. The Bentley book wants you to remove the rear drive axles at the differential before doing this. Probably to avoid damaging the CV joints, or maybe just to make it easier. Hard to say if anything was damaged, but I think it is ok. Time will tell, maybe my next report will be how to replace rear CV joints

    Once the spring is in place, just bolt the shock in, put the interior back together, and put the wheels on. Done!

    I took ride height measurements before and after the install by measuring from the fender to the bottom of the wheel (not the ground...consult Bentley for how to do it). The rear is lower by .75" and the front only went down .5". I expected it to be quite a bit lower from it's old 325 self since I went with suspension components that were supposed to lower an M3 about .5" to .75" and the M3 should be lower than my 325 with the stock sport suspension. I like the rear where it is, but the front really should be lower. One possibility is the strut tower bearings. I had ordered a set for a 95 M3, but they sent me ones from the later model (96-99). I thought the only difference was the geometry, but it is possible that the height is different. I have to do a little investigating. Not sure what to do yet. It doesn't look terrible, but I would like it to be a little lower in front.







    This morning I took the car to Roger Krause Racing for an alignment and to put the new tires on (Bridgestone RE730's 225/50-16). They did an excellent job and I left there with a straight steering wheel and tires that don't vibrate up to 110MPH ("professional" driver on a closed course). The ride is firm, but not uncomfortable. I have to let the tires break in before forming an opinion about them. So far they are a little noisier than the AVS Sports in the corners, and don't stick as well. They are quiet on the freeway though. We shall see. I did save $200 by using the Bridgestones over the Yokohamas so I can be consoled by this savings should they not turn out to handle as well.

    Alignment specs:

    Front

    Left camber -0.8 deg, right camber -0.9 deg.
    Left caster 7.2 deg, right caster 7.5 deg.
    Left toe 0.07", right toe 0.06".
    Some other numbers that I don't know what they are...

    Rear

    Left camber -1.8 deg, right camber -1.8 deg.
    Left toe 0.10", right toe 0.10"
    Thrust angle 0.00 deg.

    Don't really know what to make of this except that the camber and caster are right there in M3 land, which is just what I was aiming for.

    Sources

    Zygmunt Motors http://www.bimmerparts.com (most of the suspension components, best price on Bilsteins)
    Turner Motorsports http://www.turnermotorsports.com (H&R springs)
    Double 02 Salvage, Hayward CA (local part resource, very nice guys)
    Roger Krause Racing, Castro Valley CA (alignment, tire installation...excellent work, not inexpensive though)

    What's left?

    I am planning on an x-brace pretty soon, and now that I can attach the sway bar to the strut, I will make a link with some rod ends to do this. I could just buy the M3 links, but making them will be more fun. I expect that attaching the front sway bar to the shock will increase the rate enough that the rear will be too small, which means a new rear bar as well. My front bar is already larger than an M3 one, so I would have to go for an aftermarket one that is larger than an M3 to maintain a balance. But that is for future tweaking. Wheels would be nice, but that one will be in the distant future for now. I will post driving impressions once I get some stick time on the new tires and suspension.

    I hope this gives you some idea what it takes to replace the suspension in an E36. It's not the hardest car-related work I have done, gutting an 88 Golf 16V and putting in a custom stereo, then putting it all back together was my peak. I could see myself paying the $400-$600 in labor if I were to do this again. I do have the satisfaction of saying I did it myself, and I had a great time, so all-in-all it was worth the pain

    Have fun all!
    Bernman
    94 325is, M suspension (mostly)

    *edit* fixed links to the pictures 12/27/03
    '01 Jetta GLS TDI (Turbo Direct Injection diesel) I4 - Auto/Silver, Black Leather, Upsolute, Heated Seats, Cold-Weather Package, Sunroof, Monsoon Sound System, 6-CD changer. 105Kmiles, Averages 46.15 MPG . SOLD 10/3/07!

    FOR SALE: '99 BMW 328iC (E36) Convertible - 5-Speed Manual/Silver, Heated Seats, Grey Leather Interior, Cold Weather Package, Harmon Kardon Sound System, 6-CD changer. 65,800 miles, Averages [Not Yet Available] MPG. Everything stock except battery. MODS: Cluster rings, extended remote antennae, exhaust tips. Rear differential oil changed with Redline 75W90, front transmission fluid changed with Redline D4/ATF. Brake fluid changed with ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid. Oil change with Mobil1, next one will be Castrol Syntec. $11,400. SOLD ON MY BIRTHDAY 10/19/07

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    ATX
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    2007 E91 328i
    You said you changed the rear suspension components to ///M later on, so I am assuming that they have different geometry and improved rear handling? What is different, and more specifically in what way is it different (offset/camber/etc)?
    This is a great write up BTW, read it when i first joined and come back to consult it nowadays.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Pleasanton, CA
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    Bernmobile
    So all great things come to an end. After 13 years of ownership, this car is being sold. I hope this thread has provided some forum members with help modifying their rides, and hopefully will continue to in the future. Good luck all and have fun!

    Final parting shot of my baby in all its glory...



    Final Specs
    18” BBS RK
    255/35-18 Michelin PS2 (245/35 would be a better size)
    M3 Bilstein Sport struts and shocks
    96 M3 sway bars
    95 M3 front kingpins
    95 M3 control arm bushings
    99 M3 rear trailing arms
    RTAB "enforcers"
    M3 brakes front and rear with Axxis Ultimate pads
    Reinforced rear suspension carrier
    M3 exhaust
    M3 rear bumper
    Umnitza HIDs
    Miles and miles of smiles...sniff

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Houston, TX
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    36 Cylinders
    nice cracked foglight...

    jk ...

    i love your car's stance
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    E39 525i manual sport
    Quote Originally Posted by Bernman View Post
    So all great things come to an end. After 13 years of ownership, this car is being sold. I hope this thread has provided some forum members with help modifying their rides, and hopefully will continue to in the future. Good luck all and have fun!

    Final parting shot of my baby in all its glory...



    Final Specs
    18” BBS RK
    255/35-18 Michelin PS2 (245/35 would be a better size)
    M3 Bilstein Sport struts and shocks
    96 M3 sway bars
    95 M3 front kingpins
    95 M3 control arm bushings
    99 M3 rear trailing arms
    RTAB "enforcers"
    M3 brakes front and rear with Axxis Ultimate pads
    Reinforced rear suspension carrier
    M3 exhaust
    M3 rear bumper
    Umnitza HIDs
    Miles and miles of smiles...sniff
    You're gay....

    Why are you selling it? After 13 years of ownership you might as well run it until it dies. Don't get sick of it, let it sick of you.









    Cosmos - Black l l Lux l HK l OEM clears all around l Depo HID's 55W 5000K l Strut bar

  13. #63
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    elmhurst Ill, USA
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    2
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    96 318ti sport

    M3 Struts on a 96 318TI

    Guys, Can I install M3 struts and rear shocks on my 96 318ti? my car has the sport suspension it came with Mtech interior and sport suspension.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    elmhurst Ill, USA
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    96 318ti sport
    Can I install M3 struts on my 318TI (96) my car has the sport suspension. any input will be appreciated.

  15. #65
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    04escalade 03gsxr
    Quote Originally Posted by Stylin View Post
    this should be in a FAQ! Great job bernman!
    how much are you selling the 328i for?

  16. #66
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    Port Orange, FL
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    05 Jeep Liberty
    Selling? Any particular reason?

    And why isn't this a DIY sticky? Lots of good info, I think I'm going to get M3 bits when I redo my suspension. Hey, I need new struts, I'm like halfway there.
    1998 BMW 323is - SOLD
    I miss my BMW

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Hawaii
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    e90 M3
    just got mine done last week. came out to $2350 ( in hawaii) parts and labor. It rides niiiccceee now!

  18. #68
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    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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    '92 (M50B25NV) 325i
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. White View Post
    It's really really easy.

    Take off wheel. Unbolt the bottom nut on the shock. Have a friend stand on the trailing arm or brake disc, then pry the spring out. If you already have shorter springs in your car it's even easier to get them out.
    Wont this cause damage to the CV joints?
    ..E36 Schwarz..



  19. #69
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Durban, South Africa
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    61
    My Cars
    1997 Bmw M3 3.2 4door

    m3 suspension on 328

    ok so today i tried installing suspension springs from a 98 m3 4 door on my 98 328 4 door.but they dont fit. does anybody no if i could change the shocks to m3 would the springs work?what else would i need to change?

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    NW Indiana, USA
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    '94 325i Sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by Bernman View Post
    <b>fecund</b> Yes you can fit the M3 parts on your car. Just make sure you get the upper spring plates from whoever you buy the shocks from. Your E36 plates will not work with the M3 springs. If you can't get them with your shocks, then you can buy them from Pacific BMW for about $20 to $30.
    just to make sure i;m understanding you correctly, when you say that the E36 plates won't work with the M3 springs, you're talking about the "hat" that the top of the strut spring abuts against, right? front suspension and not rear?

    its just a little confusing because you were talking about shocks in the next sentence and they'd be in the back. Just want to be sure I'm following.
    Thanks.

    Also, are the M3 rear springs a direct drop in replacement for the 325 springs, using the same spring pads?

    thanks agian!

  21. #71
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    Jan 2007
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    99 m3/97 evo m3/93 325is
    Quote Originally Posted by euro4life View Post
    Don't get all worried about what he said. There is a night and day difference between the two. Attaching to the strut gives the sway bar a greater mechanical advantage requiring less bar to accomplish the same job. I guess you could try running a huge bar attached to your comtrol arms... but I still don't think it will give you the same results.

    JB
    Incorrect. I have the H&R swaybars on my 325is and am running M3 coilovers. My car is solid in the corners on the track even when i catch a little curbing at 70 mid turn.
    98 Euro E36 M3 (ExSMG)/99 M3 Daily Driver/93 M3 (S54) TBD-hp/TBD-tq ) Current NASA track record holder TTD on street tires @ 3450lbs (Eagles Canyon 2:05.3, MSR-Houston 1:47.08)S52E36 TWS CCW 1:54.8, COTA 2:30.6 Race Lap 3yr old 245/40/18 Hankook Z214 C51)

  22. #72
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    OBDI M3
    Am I missing something or is this thread really getting replies months or years apart from eachother?!
    E82

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Houson, Texas
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    99 m3/97 evo m3/93 325is
    LOL it was on the top page of the e36 forum. Didnt look at the post start date....
    98 Euro E36 M3 (ExSMG)/99 M3 Daily Driver/93 M3 (S54) TBD-hp/TBD-tq ) Current NASA track record holder TTD on street tires @ 3450lbs (Eagles Canyon 2:05.3, MSR-Houston 1:47.08)S52E36 TWS CCW 1:54.8, COTA 2:30.6 Race Lap 3yr old 245/40/18 Hankook Z214 C51)

  24. #74
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    97 M3 & 13 Rav4
    yup lol

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Chicagoland
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    E36, R1100RSL
    Quote Originally Posted by filler View Post
    Am I missing something or is this thread really getting replies months or years apart from eachother?!
    but of course!

    what else would you expect when someone reads one of the "Ultimate FAQ" threads and has a question? Thread bump!

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