I studied the VR gasket compared to the old one I pulled off. The metal rings appeared to be the same quality. The composite material seemed to be about the same. The VR fit pretty much perfect. It did hang up on one of the dowels but a gentle and careful push and it went down. I just don’t think there’s is much difference when it comes to composite gaskets. I’d bet the “paper” is only made by a few places and then die cut. Maybe VR paper and Elring die cut, silicon, and packaging?
E36 M3 journal https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Build-Journal
F80 M3 journal https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1734421
Miata K24 build https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...ine-up-105885/
Good info and thoughts. It would be interesting to have 1 of each new, side by side.
Erling only brah
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“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
I just talked to FCPEuro, they're sending another Elring head gasket, and paying for shipping cost to return the one I have.
We'll see what I get.
Got the block surface cleaned up pretty well. It's measuring nice and flat (~0.002" across diagonal).
I've decided to replace valves and springs. Just need to decide which ones.
VAC has "OEM style +10% rate" spring, so I could use my seat and retainers (both fairly fresh).
Otherwise, it looks like supertech valves, and supertech, VAC, or Achilles springs.
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Last edited by aeronaut; 02-07-2020 at 10:29 PM.
Got another headgasket from FCPEuro today. And yep, VR in Elring packaging.
Called FCPEuro. They said 'they've seen this before', and this time, he was going to personally walk to the warehouse and find a real Elring.
So, we'll see. Hopefully the RIGHT one on the way soon.
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- - - Updated - - -
Got a real engine stand today. Committed to an E46 dual pump oil system, so I'll need to work on the engine upside down and right side up. Heck, pretty substantial stand from the lovely Harbor Freight for $115.
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Nope. But I can only imagine a few scenarios that explains it. Oddly, on their website anyway, a VR costs more than the Elring.
Another HG on the way.
I figured the only thing between me and those lower chains and guides was a dozen or so small bolts. This is as deep as I'm going.
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Didn't feel like messing with an aftermarket timing chain, so I bought a BMW brand. Comparing new and old with 140k mi, they are exactly the same length, so very little wear. Also, the new one was even manufactured by the same company as the 25 year old one.
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I didn’t do the stuff under the timing cover because it wasn’t leaking and I was afraid of the jesus bolt. However, I did change the upper chain adjuster and the plastic guide underneath it. I think those 2 items made the most difference in how the engine sounded at idle. Much smoother and quieter and less sewing machine sounding.
Uh oh, "jesus bolt".....maybe I got lucky? Does that reference the crank/damper bolt?
I "had" to remove that anyway to get the A/C compressor bracket off.
And yea, the lower guides are worn very little. Everything would have be fine for another 100k as is. I think.
Last edited by aeronaut; 02-13-2020 at 02:18 PM.
Yes, that bolt. How hard was it to remove? I was able to take my compressor bracket off without removing that. I did however leave the AC drive pulley bolted to the balancer.
Oh, right, maybe it was just the a/c pulley that needed that crank bolt out. Anyway, it's "only" 300ft-lbs. My Milwaukee 18,000000ft-lb impact popped it right out.
Welp, FCPEuro overnighted a HG to me.
And..........another VR in Elring packaging.
Going to call them, tell them they have a real issue with this, and cancel that order.
So, is this vendor wide or FCPEuro/local only?
If my only choice is Victor-Reinz or MLS headgasket, which?
Gonna give these a try. I ordered these before I saw that TMS has a version of this available. TMS is more pricey, but possibly a better option? Anyway.
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And, thanks to "Franky goes" (member on here) for reaching out and helping make my decision between accusump and S54 pump easier. Franky had a used setup for sale. Gonna test fit, then off to VAC for the S54 pump mod (volume increase and bullet proofing). Pricey, but my goal is to never have to think about oil starvation again.
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Update on headgasket. Talked to someone up the food chain at FCPEuro. They actually had one of these in hand. He said that's what Elring is doing, that Elring is repackaging VR headgaskets. He said they've seen that on Corteco seals also; box says Corteco, seal made my VR.
I may order one from Pelican in CA, and see if it's a regional distributor thing.
I had a buddy locally that ran a set of these for a short while and had one of the studs that goes through the LCA spherical break off on the top where the top nut threads on. I'm told they revised the diameter of the stud and the nut at the top. Just make sure your version is the revised one.
Good intel, thanks.
Another shout out to Achilles Motorsports. The engine builder there (Nino, I think) is a wealth of information and does NOT push their products. "Just call me when you have a question, you don't need to make a purchase". And he's talked me out of buying a few things I didn't need.
Slap in ARP headstuds while you are in there. No downside and I believe it really does help control headgasket issues under minor overheat situations.
No empirical evidence but thought it worth bringing up....
I have never read a downside to the ARP's on the s50/52 blocks.
Two, maybe 3, I can think of:
- Increased cost (this wouldn't be a deciding factor in my case unless everything else equal)
- Removal of head with engine in the car is more difficult with studs
- Do S5x ARP studs need re-torquing after initial install? ( I think some do.)
I assume that ARP studs are torque only (rather than torque+angle) because a nut tightened on a stud can be done precisely with torque only, vs a bolt into a deep hole requires torque+angle? I've always wondered why ARP studs don't need torque+angle to precisely control the clamping pressure.
The newer arp studs are torque with a progressive sequence (up to around 85 ft lbs). I installed the headstuds and head in the car. It helps prevent having to take the head off again in the first place (and can be reused unlike the stock headbolts).
All my reading was the the stock HG with ARP studs was ruthlessly reliable, but can understand having to pull the string somewhere!
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