Help with re initialising key

[kulgan]

I put a new battery in my key today and now the auto unlock function wont work.
I followed all the steps involved.
Put key in ignition. Turn to position 1. Turn to position 0. Remove key. Press and hold unlock button. Press lock button 3 times.

The LED in the key flash's for about 10 seconds but then nothing happens.

Anybody got some ideas?

Cheers.

[Mayorchuck]

Lock the door manually with the key. Walk around to see if the fuel door is locked. If not, that's your issue. Check the fuse in the trunk. Going off memory but seen this before. Q has many posts on this also.

[kulgan]

Lock the door manually with the key. Walk around to see if the fuel door is locked. If not, that's your issue. Check the fuse in the trunk. Going off memory but seen this before. Q has many posts on this also.

Checked that one already and it locks fine.

Thanks though.

[Qsilver7]

I see New Zealand and 1995 and it makes me wonder if you have the 3 button RF remote that uses a 2016 battery...or if you have the 2 button IR (infrared) remote? It makes a difference in the way you program them. And if you have a way to test the new battery...check to see if it is between 2.6v-3v because some batteries can sit on the shelf for a while and be slightly discharged.

Also make sure:

• all the doors are UNLOCKED before initializing &
• all doors are CLOSED before initializing

Both situations above will cause an initializing failure.

[kulgan]

I see New Zealand and 1995 and it makes me wonder if you have the 3 button RF remote that uses a 2016 battery...or if you have the 2 button IR (infrared) remote? It makes a difference in the way you program them. And if you have a way to test the new battery...check to see if it is between 2.6v-3v because some batteries can sit on the shelf for a while and be slightly discharged.

Also make sure:

• all the doors are UNLOCKED before initializing &
• all doors are CLOSED before initializing

Both situations above will cause an initializing failure.

My E38's a Singapore import and has a 2 button remote. Is it going to be a different procedure to what I've been using?

[Qsilver7]

Yes...you may have the infrared system (have you decoded your VIN?)...if you do...try the procedure below which was from the late e32 & e34 models that also had the IR central locking system that used a 2 button remote that looked very similar to the 3 button remotes most of us are used to having with the old style 3 button remotes.

The problem I've always had with trying to help e38 owners that have the 2 button remote and IR central locking system...is the location of the IR receiver. I don't know where it's located. Do you have the "clown nose" red LED below your rear view mirror (like in the e39/e46/e53)? Or do you have the red LED on the top of the dash like the other e38s that have the RF central locking system and 3 button remote?

Again, the procedure is pretty similar (as you'll see)...but it does state to hold the remote near the IR receiver...and again, if it's not located in the rear view mirror...you still may not initialize the remote until you can get close enough to it. Perhaps it's hidden in the red LED on the top of the dash. :

[kulgan]

Yes...you may have the infrared system (have you decoded your VIN?)...if you do...try the procedure below which was from the late e32 & e34 models that also had the IR central locking system that used a 2 button remote that looked very similar to the 3 button remotes most of us are used to having with the old style 3 button remotes.

The problem I've always had with trying to help e38 owners that have the 2 button remote and IR central locking system...is the location of the IR receiver. I don't know where it's located. Do you have the "clown nose" red LED below your rear view mirror (like in the e39/e46/e53)? Or do you have the red LED on the top of the dash like the other e38s that have the RF central locking system and 3 button remote?

Again, the procedure is pretty similar (as you'll see)...but it does state to hold the remote near the IR receiver...and again, if it's not located in the rear view mirror...you still may not initialize the remote until you can get close enough to it. Perhaps it's hidden in the red LED on the top of the dash. :

This worked. Thanks a lot.
It was the final step I was missing. Everything else I had read didn't mention pushing either button the final time.

Thanks Qsilver7
Awesome.

[Qsilver7]

Wow...glad it worked. So all it took was one final press while the LED was flashing?

[NordmanMg]

I put a new battery in my key today and now the auto unlock function wont work.
I followed all the steps involved.
Put key in ignition. Turn to position 1. Turn to position 0. Remove key. Press and hold unlock button. Press lock button 3 times.

The LED in the key flash's for about 10 seconds but then nothing happens.

Anybody got some ideas?

Cheers.

Is this procedure work for 2001 e38 too?

[Qsilver7]

Is this procedure work for 2001 e38 too?

No...the 01 e38s imported to the USA uses an RF (radio frequency) 3 button remote...and it is DIFFERENT than the IR (infrared) 2 button...which is why the OP was having difficulty programming his key using the RF remote instructions.

The 3 button RF remotes should follow the procedures below...make sure you have ALL of your remote keys with you when programming...any not programmed during the same session will no longer lock/unlock & arm/disarm the vehicle. Also make sure you follow all the steps as written...combining, skipping, fudging, overlooking any of the steps can result in programming failure. Or if there's an issue with your FZV (central locking system)...remote lock/unlock will not work (ie blown fuel flap door actuator fuse):

TIPS:

• KL R = ignition position 1 (not 2 or 3 or engine running)
• make sure ALL doors are UNLOCKED
• make sure ALL doors are CLOSED
• only insert the 1st key into the ignition...any additional remote keys, start on STEP 3 where you start pushing the buttons (just as stated in STEP 6)

[NordmanMg]

Ok, i have one key which i open and put new battery in it, and it still not working, so i might have to reinitialize both keys right?

- - - Updated - - -

One more question, where is the fuel tang filler door fuse? Pics? My fuel door does not locking since i bought my car

[Qsilver7]

Ok, i have one key which i open and put new battery in it, and it still not working, so i might have to reinitialize both keys right?

- - - Updated - - -

One more question, where is the fuel tang filler door fuse? Pics? My fuel door does not locking since i bought my car

If your fuel filler door doesn't lock when you lock the car from outside with the remote or manually in the door lock cylinder...then that is at least one reason why your remote lock/unlock isn't working. The fuel flap locks when the car is double locked...and that occurs when the vehicle is locked using the remote or from the door lock cylinder. The interior central locking button WILL NOT lock the fuel filler flap. If there's an issue with the FZV (central locking)...then remote locking usually won't work.

The fuel filler flap actuator's fuse is in the trunk...so pull down the battery compartment door and look for the "central locking system" fuse that is on the alphabetical list...it will give you the fuse nbr. Then look at the illustration next to the alphabetized list to see where the fuse nbr locations are and count over to it (using the fuse amperage may also help quickly find it).

If the fuse is blown replace it...then reinitialize your key...AND YES...if you have more than one remote key...ALL OF THEM must be reinitialized during the same session just as stated in the instructions.

If the fuel flap actuator is on the fritz and keeps blowing the fuse...then just UNPLUG the electrical harness to the actuator. If FZV doesn't "see it"...then it doesn't know that its on the fritz. But if it's connected and not working, then it is considered an open monitor and will shut down remote lock/unlock.

BTW...the actuator is above the battery hidden behind the insulation AND the black plate that mounts it to the cross member running through the fender. Don't confuse its electrical harness with the emergency release cord that opens the fuel flap in a power failure and it's locked.

You can see the fuel flap actuator in the pic below which has been detached and pulled around so that you can see it...so if you're looking for the electrical connector (which is on the lower left in the pic)...if it is mounted...the electrical harness will be on the lower right.



In the pic below from my 1997 e38...you can see that the fuel filler flap's is fuse #58 (10th fuse from the left)...and again, look at the illustrated index to see the location of fuse 58 in the fuse box:

e38 trunk fuse location (behind insulation)

[NordmanMg]

I just check my fuses, they all good, and the second key are working good, it lock and unlock vehicle, open windows and sunroof by holding open button and i can open trunk from key, i may have bad fuel lock, i will look closer later, lil chill outside