I have an e36 m3 EVO 210mm rear subframe with front and rear diff braces currently available in Pennsylvania. I'm willing to ship at buyer's expense. Both the subframe and F&R braces are currently equipped with stock bushings. I have an extra set of 96+ e36 M3 (same as 3.2 evo) rear axles available as well. Please feel free to contact me at bavariantrack@gmail.com if you're interested.
I was planning on running this setup with a 6 speed and 4.10 gearing for an s54 swap, but have decided to be more conservative with weight and have chosen stick to a zf310 5sp and 3.38 188mm medium case setup.
Before making a final decision on your diff, can I recommend talking to Jonthan from bimmerdiffs.com (mcoupemindy on the forum)
He may have some insights on the issues you are facing and some options for the future.
I too went with the 210 diff. I had my local machine shop make an adapter for the 6 bolt flange to a 4 bolt. I designed it, and there is no vibration. I have a 3" steel driveshaft.
My LSX is roughly 600 crank hp as well. I just got mine running this summer and only have 500 miles on it. Now I wish I'd have used the CTSV T56 with the rubber guibo.
It would have added a bit of smoothness.
I think I have pictures of the diff etc on my build thread.
Bump for a question:
I'm not too well versed on driveshafts. My GTO T56 came with the type of slip yoke pictured below.
It seems that most of the builds I've seen with GTO T56's use a "regular" slip yoke and U-joint at the front of the driveshaft.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of keeping the stock GTO slip yoke and rubber guibo vs. switching to a traditional u-joint arrangement?
Tipsy
You have best of both worlds there. Slip joint and the rubber guibo. I think the rubber will give a bit lest noise and vibration. As well it should add a bit of shock absorption so you have a bit extra safety when letting out the clutch on fast starts. IE 0-60. But I do find that the engine overpowers the tires unless I just drive away on idle and then gradually step on the gas a bit. Too much and tires will break loose anywhere in first gear.
There are several GTO T56's in the build threads on this forum. But unless I've missed it, I don't recall seeing anyone retain the guibo setup on the front of the driveshaft.
Any other comments on the pros and cons of retaining a guibo vs. using a slip joint that accepts a 1310 u-joint?
Tipsy
I retained the GUIBO. Check out my build thread for the general idea.
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