1995 530i Torque Converter

[Bimmerick]

So "IT" came yesterday, from Autozone of all places. I am still about three weeks away from dropping the transmission, but with a 20% off coupon and free home shipping it was $150 delivered to my house. I am currently putting together a buy list of other parts needed or recommended to replace while doing the job. The exhaust has all new OEM hardware so a am hoping not to need any new parts for that part of the job. Here is what I've come up with so far; what else?

Driveshaft:
End Bushing
Flex Joint (Guibo)
Flex Joint Locknuts & Bolts
Center Support Assy

Transmission:
Torque Converter Seal (Front Pump Seal)
Output Shaft Seal
Cooler O-rings

Misc:
Front Stabilizer Bar Bushings
Crankshaft Seal (Rear Main)

[whiskychaser]

To go back to your previous post, the shift lever position and cluster indicator should of course tally. Assume you will take care of this when the box goes back in. It isn't really parts but I'd fill the TC as much as you can prior to fitting and read this:
http://www.europeantransmissions.com...rter_insta.htm
if you are replacing the rear seal, watch out for the shims on the output shaft. Ideally, the clearance needs to be checked and new shims fitted. But you will probably get away without. The tail section just unbolts but there is a grooved nut you need to release so you can get at the seal. It is very tight. So you will probably need a big vice to hold it and the correct too to undo it.

[Bimmerick]

To go back to your previous post, the shift lever position and cluster indicator should of course tally. Assume you will take care of this when the box goes back in. It isn't really parts but I'd fill the TC as much as you can prior to fitting and read this:
http://www.europeantransmissions.com...rter_insta.htm
if you are replacing the rear seal, watch out for the shims on the output shaft. Ideally, the clearance needs to be checked and new shims fitted. But you will probably get away without. The tail section just unbolts but there is a grooved nut you need to release so you can get at the seal. It is very tight. So you will probably need a big vice to hold it and the correct too to undo it.

WC (and all) thank you for your patient feedback; my wife says I don't always listen (in my defense, she does say a lot of stuff...).

As for the trans rear seal, the Bentley says there is a collar nut (30mm, even shows a torque spec...) on the output flange, but the illustration on realoem looks different. I will check the car but if it is as you (and realoem) say, I think I may be better off NOT removing the tail section of the trans (unless it's leaking); one less thing for me to screw up...

[whiskychaser]

You are probably looking at page 240-17. It even lists the A5S310z (5HP18) but that diagram doesn't apply to it. I think you will find it looks like this:

[Bimmerick]

You are probably looking at page 240-17. It even lists the A5S310z (5HP18) but that diagram doesn't apply to it. I think you will find it looks like this:

Yup, page 240-17, and yup your photo is what realoem shows... You're the man. Believe I'm probably better off not opening that can of worms. Of course I won't be doing anything until I fix my lift. Otherwise, any other "while you're in there" replacement items?

[whiskychaser]

Not sure I can add anything. In fact, if the crank rear seal isn't leaking I'd probably leave that alone too :-) Maybe get new TC bolts? I put Loctite on them anyway. Oh, and inspect the flex plate for cracks.

Hint: When it comes to removing the guibo bolts, have a rear wheel off the ground. That way you an spin it to move the prop shaft round and get access to all the bolts

[Bimmerick]

Got back from Japan Friday. My plan was to wait until next weekend but I was anxious to get started...



The exhaust, heat shield, and driveshaft came off pretty easily. I had the exhaust off last summer, and had already replaced all that hardware. So new hardware and a new impact wrench (and of course the awesome MaxJax) made the job a joy (so far).


My goal for this afternoon is to get the transmission out, the TC and TC seal replaced, and get it back in the car. As WC recommends, if the rear main looks good, I will likely let it be.

[whiskychaser]

That's not YOUR garage is it? People live in things that size over here. I am so jealous :-(

[Bimmerick]

That's not YOUR garage is it? People live in things that size over here. I am so jealous :-(

Funny, I am constantly complaining about how small it is and how a need to build a proper detached garage/workshop.

I am currently reviewing my plan of attack for getting that transmission out this afternoon. Although I haven't taken a very close look yet, I am especially concerned about access to some of those e-torx bolts. And I do need to take the clutch fan off to turn the crankshaft for access to the TC bolts, yes?

[ross1]

Funny, I am constantly complaining about how small it is and how a need to build a proper detached garage/workshop.

I am currently reviewing my plan of attack for getting that transmission out this afternoon. Although I haven't taken a very close look yet, I am especially concerned about access to some of those e-torx bolts. And I do need to take the clutch fan off to turn the crankshaft for access to the TC bolts, yes?

Long extensions are the key for the trans bolts, less angle at the swivel. Use impact ones if you have them as they twist less. You can turn the motor by the flywheel, easier if plugs are out. Or just bump the starter.
It's heavy MF'er, be careful.
You mentioned a new impact gun. If using regular long extensions they may absorb all the force and your gun will rattle away all day and not budge the bolts. YOu may need to resort to hand power, the extensions will twist a bunch before the bolts break loose, with verve.

[whiskychaser]

I have never removed the fan but I am not sure what it is like on that engine. Can't you get at the crank bolt between the fan blades if it overlaps? It does remind me that you may have to drop the back end of the engine a tad so be careful you don't hit the rad with it when it comes up. If you mean the bolts at the top of the bellhousing, try a 3/8 drive breaker bar - the head cranks back a bit so that might help. And as Ross says, that thing weighs about 80kg so be careful.

[Bimmerick]

Thanks guys. Finally got a closer look. It's pretty tight up front by that fan; guess I'll pull it. I'll try it without removing the plugs and see how it goes. I do have a fresh set of "quality" HF impact sockets, e-torx, extensions, universals, etc; what could go wrong...

Transmission=heavy; roger, copy. Again, what could go wrong...

[whiskychaser]

Transmission=heavy; roger, copy. Again, what could go wrong...

When you drop the tranny mounts, the engine is going to tilt back on its own mounts. It will then squash anything in its way. I am sure you have a cunning plan for that - like blocking it up off the subframe for example? :-) Just watch the gaps between the bell housing and engine and keep them even as it comes out. Don't leave the TC behind - it isn't good for the tranny and will an awful mess. Go steady and it will come out easier than a manual box. Honest :-)

[priler]

keep in mind i'm not sure how much space there is on these cars and I don't recall on mine(540iA) but the normal way to turn the TC to get to the bolts is by using what is generally called a Flywheel Turner or flywheel turn tool. the idea being,you use the tool(pulling with your body weight,it's pretty easy) to line up one bolt to get easy access(then use a long wrench for leverage on the bolt or 2 wrenches together,box end on open end for leverage,....if using 2,be careful they don't slip),then use the tool again and line up the next and the next.

if you don't have this tool or don't want to buy it,some people use a piece of wood against the bell housing and then a long,flat blade screwdriver against the wood to "walk" the flywheel around. it's a bit slower but who cares.

if your going to use the engine/starter for TC bolt access,some people hook up a push button wiring but they also always disconnect something to make sure the engine doesn't start.


edit: about what I said with wrench,if those TC bolts are torx then forget that. use proper torx bit. i'd tap them a bit with a thick brass punch first. an impact gun set on low would be good. you'll probably need a swivel too.

[Bimmerick]

Sunday I was able to drop the transmission. I replaced the TC seal, prepped the new TC by sanding the paint and any burrs off of the pilot and pads, and filling it with about 1.5 quarts of ATF. The new TC went into the transmission easily and with some turning and light wiggling it fully seated.

When I reinstalled the transmission into the car things were looking good. I installed a few of the bolts on the bottom of the transmission and the bolts on the trans rear support. However the top bolts were not aligning; they were close but not quite there.

I called it a day and yesterday after work, I gave things another look. I discovered that the trans wire harness was stuck between the engine and the transmission. Thankfully it was undamaged and came out fairly easily. So, transmission is back home with new TC and seal. I will finish the driveshaft work and hopefully reassemble everything tonight.

Old and new TC:


New TC seal (old one was not leaking):


Window for installing flywheel to TC bolts. I used a 27mm socket and breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft (after removing clutch fan):


Here you can see the space between the TC and the flywheel. In accordance with some gauge provided by Whiskeychaser, I used some washers to close up that gap to between 1/16 to 1/8 inch, and yes I used new bolts and locktite:

[530 i]

Good work Rick. On your last image with the gap between the flex plate and the torque convertor, you may have got mixed up when Whiskey Chaser mentioned the shims when replacing the output seal. You have to make sure the TC has engaged the oil pump drive, don't let it disengage when you mate the transmission to the engine.

I have never shimmed that gap between the flex plate and the TC. I bet it wasn't spaced out with washers when you removed it. Maybe others can clarify this.

[Bimmerick]

Good work Rick. On your last image with the gap between the flex plate and the torque convertor, you may have got mixed up when Whiskey Chaser mentioned the shims when replacing the output seal. You have to make sure the TC has engaged the oil pump drive, don't let it disengage when you mate the transmission to the engine.

I have never shimmed that gap between the flex plate and the TC. I bet it wasn't spaced out with washers when you removed it. Maybe others can clarify this.

Here is the gauge I was referencing: http://www.europeantransmissions.com...rter_insta.htm

[530 i]

Sorry Rick, I stand corrected. I missed that reference from euro transmissions, you've done your research very well. Everything being so clean makes a car a pleasure to work on, doesn't it.

[Bimmerick]

I did get the car back together Tuesday night. The car drives great; I drove it into work (~40 minutes each way) yesterday and again this morning. No noises, no vibration; overall the job was very straight forward and not that bad. With a real transmission jack it would have been even easier (don't ask...).

Many, but not all of the car's drivability issues have been addressed: acceleration from a stop is much better, no stalling from reverse to drive and drive to reverse, and idle is even healthier. Including the torque converter, the job cost me ~$350. As I've mentioned, since I had already replaced the exhaust hardware, that cost is not included (IIRC, it was about $110 for all the factory exhaust hardware and rubber hangers). Parts list below:

Drive Shaft CV Joint Hex Nut With Ribs (M8/Sw13) - Genuine BMW 26111227929 - 6ea - $17.34
Drive Shaft CV Joint Gasket - Genuine BMW 26111229502 - 1ea - $5.79
Drive Shaft Center Support (E30 E32 E34) - Rein 26121226723 - 1ea - $22.99
Drive Shaft Flex Joint (Guibo) - Meyle 26117511454 - 1ea - $44.99
Drive Shaft Flex JointSelf Locking Hex Nut - Genuine BMW 07129900047 - 6ea - $14.34
Drive Shaft End Bushing - Corteco 26117526611 - 1ea - $6.99

Transmission Cooler Line O-Ring - Victor Reinz 17211742636 - 2ea - $1.98
Transmission Flexplate Bolt - Genuine BMW 24001421067 - 4ea - $4.44
Transmission Torque Converter Seal - CRP 24311422671 - 1ea - $3.11
Transmission Torque Converter - Dacco BM36 (rebuilt OEM Sachs) - 1ea - $149.29 (Autozone - 20% off coupon and free shipping, not including $15 core)
Transmission Fluid - Valvoline MaxLife ATF - 2 gallons - $39.98

Suspension Stabilizer Bar Bushing Front (525i 530i 535i Z3) - Meyle 31351135805 2ea - $9.98

[whiskychaser]

If I may sum up? You did your homework. Decided what was at fault and replaced it. Plus a couple of bits while you were in there. It works and you didn't have to sell any body parts to pay for it. I'd say that is a result

But you are clearly not 100% happy as 'not all of the car's drivability issues have been addressed'. What isn't right?

[Bimmerick]

If I may sum up? You did your homework. Decided what was at fault and replaced it. Plus a couple of bits while you were in there. It works and you didn't have to sell any body parts to pay for it. I'd say that is a result

But you are clearly not 100% happy as 'not all of the car's drivability issues have been addressed'. What isn't right?

WC, thank you again for your help. Transmission-wise, one thing that really annoys me is the "S4 issue".

1. S4: Shifting from AD to S4 while cruising in 5th causes a downshift from 5th to 4th as it should.
2. S4: Mashing the gas in 4th gear (while in S4) causes a downshift to 3rd gear as it should.
3. S4: However, once in 3rd gear (while in S4) the transmission WILL NOT shift back into 4th gear unless the shift lever is moved back into AD.
4. S4: Also, when moving away from a stop in S4, the transmission will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd, but it will not shift into 4th gear unless the shift lever is moved back into AD.
5. AD: In AD all shifts occur as expected.
6. S3: works as it should: sporty shifts thru 3rd gear.
7. S2: I only checked this once or twice, but in a similar way to S4 not going back into 4th, once S2 drops into 1st gear it WILL NOT shift to 2nd gear until shifter is bumped into S3.
8. At highway speeds (65ish) with cruise control engaged, bumping the cruise to increase speed ALWAYS results in a downshift from 5th, straight thru 4th, and into 3rd. It just doesn't feel right...

I have wound the car up pretty high (approaching 6000rpm maybe) to try to get it to shift into 4th while in S4, but no joy. Bottom Line: Once the car is in 3rd gear (or from a stop), S4 operates identically to S3...

[whiskychaser]

My own car used to drop from 4 to 2 when you hit the kickdown. On more than one occasion it tried to launch me into a hedge. I solved it with a new switch. I think what was happening on mine was that it was getting a double signal and I suspect you are experiencing something similar. I don't see the point of designing the car so you have to use the shift lever when there is a perfectly good 3 position switch you can use on this tranny.

But enough of my experience. I'd be looking at what the shift matrix is reading at the TCM end in 'S'. It must look fine on the cluster or your would have said so. See if it reads what the diagram says it should and check out pin 12 which is the S mode signal