Thought I'd start a thread to see just how long clutches are lasting in minis.
I'll start.
Owner: Bruce
Year: 2007
Model: Mini Convertible base model
Transmission: 5 speed manual
Mileage / date at purchase: 116,185 on 07/16/2014
Mileage / date clutch broke: 116,679 on 08/08/2014
Total miles before clutch broke: No previous maintenance history available on car (bought from broker) so I have no idea how many miles were on the clutch before it broke.
Replaced with OEM parts or what brand?:
What all was replaced: Not sure yet as it is being repair now and I will update once repair is done.
What was the total price: Not sure yet as it is being repair now and I will update once repair is done.
Who did the repair: Peter's Hobby Shop - Wilsonville, Oregon 503-682-7073 - faceboook.com/PetersHobbyShop
Notes / Story: The clutch burnt out at 116,679 miles on 08/08/2014. I purchased this car on 07/16/2014 with 116,185 miles. I bought the car from a local broker so there's no vehicles history so I'm not sure if clutch was ever replaced by the prior owner. I got 494 miles out of the car before the clutch wore out. Crazy rubber / plastic burning smell about 1 week before it went out but no noticeable slipping and then two days ago complete failure of the clutch. I guess I should have had a mechanic inspect the car prior to purchase! ugggh!!!
BTW - I called the Mini dealer here in Portland Oregon and they want $1,700+ for the clutch without flywheel replacement or $2,300+ with Flywheel replacement. I have a local BMW mechanic who will do just the clutch for about $1,000 including parts and labor (not sure how much for the flywheel if it needs replacing as I'll talk to him next week once he pulls everything apart and looks at it.)
I've looked online and see there's a common problem with mini's having clutches burn out early (one guy had 3 within 30K miles burn out on him and he claims he's a normal driver and drives other manual transmission cars without any problems getting over 150K miles on his clutches on his other cars that aren't minis.)
My questions are:
1. While my mechanic is replacing the clutch what all should he replace during the job?
2. If the flywheel is still good should I replace it at the same time or does the flywheel last a long time and I wouldn't need to replace it? I'd hate to pay all that labor just to have the flywheel go out soon but I do see flywheels cost about $500 just for the part?
3. Should I replace with stock mini clutch and flywheel or are there better more durable ones I should use made by an aftermarket company?
For the list I thought it would be helpful if people who have had clutch replacements in their minis list their information and story in this thread using the below template:
Owner:
Year:
Model:
Transmission:
Mileage / date at purchase: xxxx miles on DD/MM/YYYY
Mileage / date clutch broke: xxxx miles on DD/MM/YYYY
Total miles before clutch broke:
Replaced with OEM parts or what brand?:
What all was replaced:
What was the total price:
Who did the repair:
Notes / Story:
Last edited by bmoody33; 08-11-2014 at 02:43 PM. Reason: updating template
I had a 2006 mini cooper S, bought new. Two years later, 22,000 mi, I was told I needed a new clutch, which they replaced for free as I was still under warranty, obviously. Two years after that, the clutch went again. I was no longer under warranty and the price to replace it was outrageously expensive. Rather than do the work, I just sold the fucking car (at a substantial discount) and swore never to buy a mini or BMW ever, ever again. Motoring my ass.
Hope this helps.
Brest,
C. Brian Smith
Los Angeles, CA
Last edited by cbriansmith902; 08-11-2014 at 03:48 PM. Reason: typo
Thanks for the info. It might be that some people that drive their cars harder don't ride the clutch as much as easier drivers. Such as harder drivers might be releasing the clutch quicker. Here's an interesting post I found regarding mini clutches and throw out bearings failing from over heating from possibly drivers keeping the clutch in all the time at stop lights and when the car is stopped and still running.
http://www.promini.com/technical/clu...ch-Failure.php
I was just gifted an '06 with 185,000 miles on it to use as a commuter; with what I'm told is the original clutch...it feels solid and I'm hopeful to get it to 200k before anything catastrophic happens...fun car!Originally Posted by bimmershark
2008 non s. purchased with 36k. taught 16 yr old daughter to drive manual when i purchased the car. clutch cooked at 40k. replaced myself. parts = approx 500.00 used a valeo (factory supplier). minis are known for about 50k per clutch.
There are no athiests at 150 mph
I bought my '03 R53 new ('02 production) and have beat on it pretty hard. It has about 120,000 miles on the original clutch and it is still strong. I also just finally replaced my rear brakes about 1000 miles ago, and the fronts were replaced at about 108,000 miles. Mini clutches are not a weak spot. It is the drivers bad habits that kill them!
-Donny
Last edited by KeysCoupe; 08-25-2014 at 08:52 PM.
ive replaced them as low as 17k miles.
BBS LM's, AA Gen III Exhaust, Cosmos CAI V2, AA SSK, Dinan stage 2 SW, Tein SS Coils, Slotted & Crossdrilled Brembos W/ Hawk pads UUC pullies, M50 Manifold.......
My wife has an 05 she bought new with almost 90K miles on the original clutch. No issues to date.
Lots of folks do seem to have clutch issues, especially on the "S" models. I suspect that's due to the dual-mass flywheel setup which I don't believe is on the non-S models (at least, not on my wife's 05 model). It's also a bit strange how some drivers get well above 100K miles with no problems.
IMO, especially for older drivers that have had issues, they were taught to engage the clutch at the lowest RPM possible. That's a good idea on a 1969 Chevy Nova, with the most basic clutch assembly, but that same process probably hammers the clutch assembly on small displacement, torquey engines.
It's only a guess, but I'd think when releasing the clutch on newer design torquey 4-cylinder high energy engines, it might be preferable to release at a higher RPM.
Like I said, it's only a guess...
I hate to say it, but I think you need to learn how to drive a little better. 2 years out of a clutch twice is all you ... it's not the car.
Friction is what wears the clutch: more speed = more friction, regardless of engine size.
My 318i (which probably has a lot less torque off idle than a Mini) does not mind the release at less than 1000rpm whatsoever (still has the dual mass flywheel) ... the clutch has almost 200k on it (last 50k with me) ... it is getting weaker, but it's still holding just fine.
From what I've seen, there are many complaints about the disintegration of the dual mass flywheel, which is often described as a clutch issue.
That is the symptom I was referring to... For example: Google "Mini dual mass flywheel issues" and you'll get quite a number of hits...
And, it's not limited to just Mini. Lots of other makes are experiencing issues with the setup as well...
A common denominator is 4-cylinder high-torque engines. 6-cylinder engines don't seem to experience the same issue due to their more natural inherent balance that is given by an in-line 6...
Here's a brief article describing the issue...
http://www.techtalk.ie/index.php/why...heels-fail/706
Last edited by Pyewacket69; 09-10-2014 at 03:17 PM.
My clutch is fine, but I thought I'd register my experience here in case someone is reading this and jumps to the conclusion that all MINI clutches burn out prematurely...
2002 R53 MINI Cooper S Hardtop: 6 years, 104,000 miles on original clutch before the car died of other issues
2008 R55 MINI Cooper S Clubman: 3 years, 36,000 miles on original clutch before trading in
2012 R58 MINI Cooper S Coupe: almost 3 years and counting, 40,000 miles on original clutch; >50% city driving, no sign of fading
I will agree that the dual-mass flywheels are an issue. Though related to the clutch, it is an entirely different issue. I took my '03 R53 Mini in to the dealer twice while still under warranty complaining of the flywheel rattling noise. Both times, was told that was normal and it had no effect on performance, so no repairs covered.
Today, with just under 120,000 miles, it sounds quite a bit worse, but has not had much affect on drivability. My clutch is still original and doing fine, but will get replaced at the same time I replace the flywheel, which is in the foreseeable future.
-Donny
Well, if you go back to the OP's first posting, he stated the clutch "broke" (his term, not mine).
While we both agree that a damaged flywheel assembly isn't a destroyed clutch disk, it's a bit difficult to infer from the term "broke" exactly what damage(s) were done.
There's some question as to what needed to be replaced on the OP's vehicle, possibly clutch disk alone or the flywheel assembly as well.
That's right in line with what many Mini owners have experienced.
Last edited by Pyewacket69; 09-23-2014 at 05:34 PM.
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