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Thread: E36 M3 Engine Swap: What would you do?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Bimmer Cave
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    597
    My Cars
    1998 BMW M3 Convertible

    E36 M3 Engine Swap: What would you do?

    I have a 1998 M3 with approximately 196k miles, original engine. The engine runs great, pulls hard, no noticeable oil burn or noises other than a worn belt tensioner.

    I also have a 1997 M3 with 136k miles that is guaranteed to be in good running shape.

    I plan on doing a ZF 5-speed swap, engine mount replacement, etc etc in the spring, so the engine will be removed (obviously).

    Would you:

    A. Reinstall the 196k mile engine since there are no signs of excessive wear/damage.

    Or

    B. Replace the engine with the 136k mile one, just because it should technically have a longer life span if it has been maintained properly.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    18,000
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    '03 Z4, '06 Forester
    Sell me one of them with a harness, DME, cluster, EWS and key when you get what you want figured out?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Vancouver
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    2,947
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    98 M3
    Compression and leakdown test them both, put in whichever scores higher.

    - 98 m3, techno/anthrazit cloth, 124k and officially worthless - 89 m3, alpine/black 143k and officially old - 2000 323it, tiag/grey, 169k and officially boring

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    1998 BMW M3 Convertible
    Quote Originally Posted by slocar View Post
    Sell me one of them with a harness, DME, cluster, EWS and key when you get what you want figured out?
    Sure, if the pending sale falls through. PM me what your offer is man.

    Quote Originally Posted by notMpowered View Post
    Compression and leakdown test them both, put in whichever scores higher.
    Good point. I've heard that the engine should be cranked over manually when doing the compression test for better accuracy. I've always bumped it with the fuel pump fuse removed, or injectors unplugged. Which would be more consistent when compared to true operating compression?

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