Tips on what to look out for when purchasing a 540it wagon?

[MacLoGoS]

Hey all,

I have been a member on here for a little while now. Mostly in the E34 section but im going to be looking at a 99 540it sport wagon. I was wondering if there are any wagon specific issues i should look out for when buying one? I used to have a E34 540i/6 with the M60B40 but doesnt the newer models come with a M62b44? Thanks for any help you can provide on the subject.

[whiteghost1]

Hey all,

I have been a member on here for a little while now. Mostly in the E34 section but im going to be looking at a 99 540it sport wagon. I was wondering if there are any wagon specific issues i should look out for when buying one? I used to have a E34 540i/6 with the M60B40 but doesnt the newer models come with a M60b44? Thanks for any help you can provide on the subject.

- timing guides/ VANOS have been replaced (because all 540iT are M62tu motors) or serviced
- inspect rear subframe bushings w/scrutiny
- rear hatch rust
- rear hatch struts + rear hatch glass struts operational
- rear wiper/washer operation
- I believe all 540iT's in the USA have SLS so make sure that system is operating properly

[MacLoGoS]

- timing guides/ VANOS have been replaced (because all 540iT are M62tu motors) or serviced
- inspect rear subframe bushings w/scrutiny
- rear hatch rust
- rear hatch struts + rear hatch glass struts operational
- rear wiper/washer operation
- I believe all 540iT's in the USA have SLS so make sure that system is operating properly

Thanks for the info. I actually replaced the rear subframe bushings on my e34. What a pain lol. I can only imagine the wagon bushings are that much harder to change. What is a good way to test the SLS? Should i bring something heavy to toss in the back?

[geargrinder]

- timing guides/ VANOS have been replaced (because all 540iT are M62tu motors) or serviced
- inspect rear subframe bushings w/scrutiny
- rear hatch rust
- rear hatch struts + rear hatch glass struts operational
- rear wiper/washer operation
- I believe all 540iT's in the USA have SLS so make sure that system is operating properly

Good list. Just 2 comments...

1. The timing/chain guides thing isn't wagon specific, and I would preface this whole list with "in addition to the basic E39 issues to watch for the things specific to touring are..." Because if you aren't just talking wagon-specific items, that becomes a much longer E39 540i list... front thrust arm bushings & control arms, motor mounts, valley pan leaks, valve cover / timing chain cover leaks, main seal leaks, CCV, the entire cooling system, window regs, cluster pixels... etc. There's a billion "buying an E39 540i what to look for" threads here and elsewhere for that.

2. That said, I would not at all phrase the guides/VANOS as "have been replaced or serviced" because the vast minority of "pedestrian" cars never get that service. If you are looking only at ones that have had the service yer gonna be fishing in a real shallow pool. I would phrase it instead "check VANOS for issues and any signs of decline - chain guides, VANOS seals, etc. and if so get an appropriate discount..." My personal opinion is still that high frequency quality oil changes can stave off the guide job for a long time, and the guys who are at 200k w/ OEM guides tend to prove that out, but I know certainly others disagree and there is the sky-is-falling replace-everything-every-10k-miles-or-the-world-will-come-to-an-end-and-the-anti-christ-will-rule chain guide camp also. Try to get a true cold-start on the car and see what kind of rattle there is or is not. If the seller always has warmed up the car before you get there and won't give you a stone-cold start, then be suspicious. If you can get a PPI in a shop then they can look for plastic bits in the oil pan too. If there is significant rattle noise when the car is warm, get a big discount and get that sorted first thing.

But otherwise the other 4-5 items are pretty much the Touring-specific ones...

[whiteghost1]

Good list. Just 2 comments...

1. The timing/chain guides thing isn't wagon specific, and I would preface this whole list with "in addition to the basic E39 issues to watch for the things specific to touring are..." Because if you aren't just talking wagon-specific items, that becomes a much longer E39 540i list... front thrust arm bushings & control arms, motor mounts, valley pan leaks, valve cover / timing chain cover leaks, main seal leaks, CCV, the entire cooling system, window regs, cluster pixels... etc. There's a billion "buying an E39 540i what to look for" threads here and elsewhere for that.

2. That said, I would not at all phrase the guides/VANOS as "have been replaced or serviced" because the vast minority of "pedestrian" cars never get that service. If you are looking only at ones that have had the service yer gonna be fishing in a real shallow pool. I would phrase it instead "check VANOS for issues and any signs of decline - chain guides, VANOS seals, etc. and if so get an appropriate discount..." My personal opinion is still that high frequency quality oil changes can stave off the guide job for a long time, and the guys who are at 200k w/ OEM guides tend to prove that out, but I know certainly others disagree and there is the sky-is-falling replace-everything-every-10k-miles-or-the-world-will-come-to-an-end-and-the-anti-christ-will-rule chain guide camp also. Try to get a true cold-start on the car and see what kind of rattle there is or is not. If the seller always has warmed up the car before you get there and won't give you a stone-cold start, then be suspicious. If you can get a PPI in a shop then they can look for plastic bits in the oil pan too. If there is significant rattle noise when the car is warm, get a big discount and get that sorted first thing.

But otherwise the other 4-5 items are pretty much the Touring-specific ones...

Very well clarified, I stand perfectly corrected .

[MacLoGoS]

Thanks guys!! I appreciate all the info. I actually went to see the car this morning and purchased it. Its a 1999 540it sport black exterior with black interior with a few very cool options. It has had all major repairs and maintenance done like the entire cooling system including the valley pan gasket, and the tensioner guides have been replaced with a ton of other major maintenance items. New rear suspension ect... And i was able to talk the price down on the car even tho there was literally nothing that was broken or in bad shape. Im gonna start a build thread soon but for now im gonna enjoy driving this wonderful piece of machinery around town.

[geargrinder]

Sounds very very promising! We demand pix. Hopefully the info helped you make your case and eval the records.

One thing to look into deeper, and maybe it's explicit in the receipts, is if the aforementioned rear subframe bushings were done.

Often those are missed even by experienced techs since it's a "540iT only" thing and they can "look OK" from the surface, and are a zero problem on the E39 sedans.

If they missed those in the overhaul be sure to do them yourself - not a tough job just needs a special tool which now 2-3 guys around here own and rent out to fellow members for cheep.

Change the oil frequently with high quality stuff and underfill the coolant expansion tank a little - two tiny tips to longer life and avoiding some of the commonly complained about issues.

[MacLoGoS]

Sounds very very promising! We demand pix. Hopefully the info helped you make your case and eval the records.

One thing to look into deeper, and maybe it's explicit in the receipts, is if the aforementioned rear subframe bushings were done.

Often those are missed even by experienced techs since it's a "540iT only" thing and they can "look OK" from the surface, and are a zero problem on the E39 sedans.

If they missed those in the overhaul be sure to do them yourself - not a tough job just needs a special tool which now 2-3 guys around here own and rent out to fellow members for cheep.

Change the oil frequently with high quality stuff and underfill the coolant expansion tank a little - two tiny tips to longer life and avoiding some of the commonly complained about issues.

I dug thru all his paperwork that he had available from the 15 years of ownership and did not see any mention of the rear subframe bushings being replaced. I did get a nice hefty discount on the purchase price due to the lack of that maintenance. I always change the oil and filter every 3k miles and at 6k miles i change fuel filters and spark plugs ect... Im kinda picky at how fresh i keep all my parts but its for the greater good haha.

[Flycaper]

nice score, hopefully I see it around the bay...