How to replace seed sensor and pulse generator on 2002 525i

[Bacim32]

I have a 2002 525i with 89000 miles and i need to replace my speed sensor part # 24341423874 and my pulse generator part # 24341219316, does anyone have any idea how this is done and the steps to doing it? Or is it even possible to do by my self?

[rf900rkw]

It will require full removal of the valvebody. To me, it's not a big deal, but others will find it a daunting task.

But why? These sensors have a very low failure rate (as in they don't) and replacing them will not fix your slip or P0721.

[Bacim32]

The code is for output shaft speed sensor which i googled and it seems to be the output speed sensor which its can also be the pulse generator in bmw words so I'm guessing those are the sensors because I'm sure my clutch is not burned and i doubt the oil in the trans is dirty like the mechanic told me I'm thinking he was after making some easy cash, he also told me that bmw sometimes outs either a suzuki trans or a cadillac trans in these cars which i though was really odd why would they do that? So I'm having a hard time believing him that there is internal damage because wouldn't there be different codes as well not just the speed sensor?

[rf900rkw]

BMW uses both GM and ZF transmissions in this era car. Suzuki uses ZF (though very different). Cadillac uses the same GM transmissions. So your guy is kinda right. But he checked the fluid level, and doesn't know what kind of transmission he just checked? Fail! Add in his comments from the other thread and big FAIL.

You have a ZF 5HP19, btw.

Do not make the same stupid mistake most make when using Google to diagnose codes. P0721 is not an ouput speed sensor code. Yes, it says speed sensor in the short generic description. But guess what. The long description that includes the full logic on what tests have to fail in what way say otherwise. Those tests, again mentioned in your last thread, state that the input of the transmission reached over 1600 RPM with the output remaining less than 160RPM. In other words, the transmssion slipped.

When the D/G drum breaks, you can have no 1st gear. When you put it in drive, nothing much happens. When you rev the engine up, the input exceeds 1600rpm, yet there is still no signal from the output. Wham, code P0721 sets, and the computer slams you into 5th gear... which does work.

The denial of broken transmissions is common. MY waste oil heater runs on a steady diet of almost new ATF from people that "just knew" a fluid flush would fix that bad slip. Changing those two sensors blindly is just going to piss away $500 before you begin on the correct path.

[Bacim32]

What is the d/g drum? By the sounds of it you seem very sure once again hank you very much sir for all your advice!!

[rf900rkw]

The D/G drum is the weak link of the 5HP19, just as the A drum is for the 5HP24. If it blows the D end, you lose reverse. If it blows the G end, you lose 1st.

How is your reverse?


If you really want to change the sensor. Change the ouput only. IT can be done without removing the valve body and is a large chunk cheaper than the other. #8 in the diagram.

[Bacim32]

I found both of the sensor oem with the same parts number as on the diagrams for a really cheap price and my reverse is fine no problems with it the only problem is the that it jumps into limp mode after 1600 rpms.... the output sensor and pulse generator both require trans pan and filter removal for replacement correct?
sorry for the late respond I just haven't done anything to the car just left it parked

[ViolinARC]

BMW uses both GM and ZF transmissions in this era car. Suzuki uses ZF (though very different). Cadillac uses the same GM transmissions. So your guy is kinda right. But he checked the fluid level, and doesn't know what kind of transmission he just checked? Fail! Add in his comments from the other thread and big FAIL.

You have a ZF 5HP19, btw.

Do not make the same stupid mistake most make when using Google to diagnose codes. P0721 is not an ouput speed sensor code. Yes, it says speed sensor in the short generic description. But guess what. The long description that includes the full logic on what tests have to fail in what way say otherwise. Those tests, again mentioned in your last thread, state that the input of the transmission reached over 1600 RPM with the output remaining less than 160RPM. In other words, the transmssion slipped.

When the D/G drum breaks, you can have no 1st gear. When you put it in drive, nothing much happens. When you rev the engine up, the input exceeds 1600rpm, yet there is still no signal from the output. Wham, code P0721 sets, and the computer slams you into 5th gear... which does work.

The denial of broken transmissions is common. MY waste oil heater runs on a steady diet of almost new ATF from people that "just knew" a fluid flush would fix that bad slip. Changing those two sensors blindly is just going to piss away $500 before you begin on the correct path.

of remote diagnostics! Right on Randy!!!!

I must be one of the lucky ones because it's been 57k since I changed out the "lifetime" fluid (to AMSOIL)...haven't seen a trans failsafe since *knock on wood*.

[rf900rkw]

There's always one that doesn't follow the pattern. You may have *the one* that is suffering from speed sensor failure.

The rearward sensor, the cylinder one, can be changed with minimal effort; drop the pan. The forward sensor, the rectangular one, will require full valvebody removal.

[Bacim32]

Ok thanks i will see what happens i will keep you updated im going to order both the output speed sensor #24341423874 and the pulse generator # 24341219316 today and i should get them done next tuesday thanks again for all the help!!

[Bacim32]

Hey im planning on doing the sensors tomorrow but i need to know the torque specs on the trans pan and the type of trans fluid to use!

- - - Updated - - -

Also the torque specs on the valve body because i need to remove that in order to replace the output speed sensor!

[rf900rkw]

10Nm

Esso LT71141 equivalent -- now days that would be most all Dexron III compatible synthetics.

Input sensor is over the valvebody. Again 10Nm.

[Z4inTheDriveway]

10Nm

Esso LT71141 equivalent -- now days that would be most all Dexron III compatible synthetics.

Input sensor is over the valvebody. Again 10Nm.

I'm bringing this back as I have a similar issue with my 2002 E46 325 with ZF 5HP19 transmission.
I currently have the valve body removed from the trans and am looking for proper (layman/shadetree language) way to test the Pulse Generator ("Turbine" speed sensor 24341219316 ), the "Speed Sensor" 24341423874 and the wiring harness that plugs into the solenoids on the valve body.

Transmission error codes before I took it apart:
33 Turbine rev. sensor
34 Sump oil temp sensor "sporadic error"
49 RPM Symptom gear check
53 Gear Check
65 Gear Check 4 (ENP)

Shadow memory contained:
90 TEG_UP_1
91 TEG_UP_2
93 TEG_DOWN_2
105 Control-VANOS mechanical intake jammed or blocked

Any help or helpful links appreciated. I'd prefer not to rebuild the valve body if I can just replace a sensor, but hate to replace things that do work as a random exercise. The car has ~115K miles on it and before the trans went into safe mode it periodically exhibited "slamming" behavior (hard shifting at low speeds)

[Z4inTheDriveway]

Replacing Turbine speed sensor with new ZF sensor.

The ASTG wiring diagram and resistance charts are a great help here: http://pdfcast.org/pdf/zf-4-5-speed-auto-valve-bodies
from thread http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=928248
which is for a 3-series but should help anyone with similar issues.

[Z4inTheDriveway]

Replacing Turbine speed sensor with new ZF sensor.

The ASTG wiring diagram and resistance charts are a great help here: http://pdfcast.org/pdf/zf-4-5-speed-auto-valve-bodies
from thread http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=928248
which is for a 3-series but should help anyone with similar issues.

FYI I have the car all back together and it is running great for the past 3 days after replacing the sensor.
Expenses for this job:
$200 Transmission Jack from harbor freight (this is not absolutely necessary, but it made dropping the transmission fluid pan SO much easier and I did not drip any on the garage floor- if you don't care about the mess this is not required)
$67 New ZF sensor http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._CE04B7F6.aspx
$90 New ATF ( http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._B4FD1BB9.aspx is the 5L jug and a couple 1L bottles to top it off- BTW the trans took *all 7 Liters* of fluid and I probably could have added a couple more ounces as it did not spill out, but I ran out so I closed it up.
$40 4 new jack stands. Also not required for this job if you already have them or a lift.

Total expense $397 including $240 worth of tools. I don't think I could have gotten away with this repair for under $900 from a mechanic, and I would not get to keep the tools at the end :-) This is quite a do-able job if you have the time. I took a couple of weeks being extra careful (and busy with other stuff) and doing research.

[Z4inTheDriveway]

UPDATE: Currently at about 115K miles and back into Failsafe Mode

The last time, the (turbine rev) sensor was giving sporadic readings so I changed it out and everything was like butter.
There has never been any evidence of slipping (except in tranny fail-safe mode which is expected)
Hard shifts before previous repair were immediately gone after replacing sensor and have not returned. This new failure was totally unexpected and without prior symptom.

The fluid at ~100K miles was likely original. Dirty, but not very sparkly and there was very little debris on the magnets. I changed it out again with the last repair but re-used the new filter and gasket, but if I open it up again I think I'll save this fluid since it is only about 3K miles old and if I can avoid another $100 tranny fill I will.

I'm leaning towards the sensor going bad again but both input and output are reading errors (not sure if one will cause the other) but the output only picked up 2 errors after I reset the fail-safe and engaged reverse, eased back, drive, eased forward, back, forward, back, then drove up the street and (!) before I got to the next block.

Last time all the solenoids were reading in spec as far as resistance goes and shifting has been normal and responsive up til now.

There has been no obvious slippage while driving and the 2nd failure was not accompanied by any "slamming" behavior