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Thread: What clutch should I get?

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    160
    My Cars
    E90 M3; E36 M3
    If you are replacing the rear trans seal be careful pulling it out. I used a lever type seal puller which, I found out, will put a dent in the aluminum seal bore. Then when you drive in a new seal, it will tear on the dented surface. If you use this type of puller put something between where the puller pivots and the transmission case. If you watch the BAVAUTO video, you'll see then use this type of puller (which is why I used it) but the Bentley manual illustrates using a tripod type puller that does not touch the aluminum housing.

    While you are in there, you might consider:
    The M5 steel pivot pin (21511223281) instead of the plastic one.
    Replacing the slave cylinder
    Remove the Clutch Delay Value
    And if you are not broke yet, junking the entire shift assembly and install a short shift kit from Bear Motorsports.
    or just replace the single sided BMW selector rod with a double sided one from AKG (http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...e36%20Shifters) along with all the shifter bushings

    The trans detent bushings should be done but you'll need the bushing drift tools to install them (all from bimmerdiffs) or take it to a shop and have them install. The 5th gear and reverse, I found, are a bit nerve-racking to do if you have not done it before. You have to pound the existing bushing to bend it away from the bore in order to get it out. The bore, of course, is aluminum and is very easily gouged. I just did this successfully but was very uncomfortable while doing it.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Bellevue wa
    Posts
    1,030
    My Cars
    1998 bmw m3 sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by hide1 View Post
    Don't replace the whole selector rod joint, just the sponge inside the coupling and save $20. Here's a copy paste from a notepad file:

    Basically the Shifter Refresh from Pelican or Motion motorsport plus a few things.. everything with (*) is optional replacement depending on the condition of the part on your car..

    shifter ball cup (25-11-1-220-600)
    underbody shift boot (25-11-1-221-700)
    flywheel bolts, one time use (11-22-2-243-051)
    clutch pivot pin (21-51-1-223-328)
    *dowel pin (23-41-1-466-134)
    *pin retaining clip (25-11-1-222-451)
    *selector rod seal (23-12-1-282-394)
    *circlips (25-11-7-571-899)
    *rear shifter arm chassis bushing (25-11-1-222-015)
    *trans output seal (23-11-1-224-799)
    *trans input seal (23-21-1-224-820)
    *shift selector seal (23-12-1-282-394)
    selector joint sponge

    (6) guibo bolt nuts are not reuseable (07-12-9-900-047)

    e21 tranny mounts (23-71-1-175-424) or (23-71-1-109-173)

    If you want to keep your pedal feel you need the 325i slave (21-52-1-159-045)

    And you might as well do your shift detent bushings while youre at it. (bimmerdiffs.com)
    Thanks man! The parts numbers help a lot and at this point saving $20 feels like I'm saving $200.
    98 M3 sedan

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Bellevue wa
    Posts
    1,030
    My Cars
    1998 bmw m3 sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by JPatrick View Post
    If you are replacing the rear trans seal be careful pulling it out. I used a lever type seal puller which, I found out, will put a dent in the aluminum seal bore. Then when you drive in a new seal, it will tear on the dented surface. If you use this type of puller put something between where the puller pivots and the transmission case. If you watch the BAVAUTO video, you'll see then use this type of puller (which is why I used it) but the Bentley manual illustrates using a tripod type puller that does not touch the aluminum housing.

    While you are in there, you might consider:
    The M5 steel pivot pin (21511223281) instead of the plastic one.
    Replacing the slave cylinder
    Remove the Clutch Delay Value
    And if you are not broke yet, junking the entire shift assembly and install a short shift kit from Bear Motorsports.
    or just replace the single sided BMW selector rod with a double sided one from AKG (http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...e36%20Shifters) along with all the shifter bushings

    The trans detent bushings should be done but you'll need the bushing drift tools to install them (all from bimmerdiffs) or take it to a shop and have them install. The 5th gear and reverse, I found, are a bit nerve-racking to do if you have not done it before. You have to pound the existing bushing to bend it away from the bore in order to get it out. The bore, of course, is aluminum and is very easily gouged. I just did this successfully but was very uncomfortable while doing it.
    Thanks for the advice on the trans seal! I have a friend who's going to help with the stuff I don't know:/
    98 M3 sedan

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Union City/Sacramento
    Posts
    4,347
    My Cars
    1999 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by hide1 View Post
    Good call. I forgot about that option. The only thing with that kit is I don't believe it is the M5 pressure plate. For best all around DD combo you could go with the gripforce chromoly fly, use their SACHS pressure plate, and bring your own BMW M5 sprung hub clutch. I test fitted it at their facility just a few weeks ago and it appeared (and they agreed the M5 clutch would fit their flywheel), SPRUNG SIDE FACING FLYWHEEL. UUC setup is opposite requiring sprung side towards pressure plate.
    THANK YOU! I always look for confirmation that this works despite often hearing it doesn't.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Bellevue wa
    Posts
    1,030
    My Cars
    1998 bmw m3 sedan

    What clutch should I get?

    Update: after a week of late nights everything is back together and I took it out on a drive tonight and it's great!

    I instantly regret using the UUC trans mounts! going back to the oem mounts, besides that I'm happy.

    I haven't had a chance to weigh the old clutch setup yet but will post that tomorrow.

    Edit: 40.8lbs before 24.5lbs after.
    Last edited by TheJordanWhitte; 01-03-2014 at 07:16 PM.
    98 M3 sedan

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    562/ 949 CA
    Posts
    2,417
    My Cars
    M3 Saloon
    Quote Originally Posted by JPatrick View Post
    If you are replacing the rear trans seal be careful pulling it out. I used a lever type seal puller which, I found out, will put a dent in the aluminum seal bore. Then when you drive in a new seal, it will tear on the dented surface. If you use this type of puller put something between where the puller pivots and the transmission case. If you watch the BAVAUTO video, you'll see then use this type of puller (which is why I used it) but the Bentley manual illustrates using a tripod type puller that does not touch the aluminum housing.
    Is this one and the same as described here? If so, GREAT info to know.
    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=268686

    My gut somehow perceived if the seals there aren't leaking/ look good, leave good enough alone!
    If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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