Is there a consensus that it is safe to delete the fan on an s52 m roadster?
If so, what are the part #s for the thermostat and fan switch?
I think the thermostat is the stock one right?:
11531721002 Thermostat; 88 Degree C
Having trouble locating the fan switch
I don't want a link to one of the kits out there, I am about to overhaul the cooling system and already have all the parts except the fan switch
I ordered mine in a kit but I think 61-31-8-376-440 is the part you want on the fan switch.
For the thermostat I used an 80 C, I think the part number is 11 53 1 466 174 for that piece.
My kit also included Water Wetter, and I think it's worth doing. I know you said you don't want a kit, but the kit I got was just the thermostat, switch, and Water Wetter. So, if you don't have the 80 C thermostat, 80/88C fan switch, or the Water Wetter, why not make it easy on yourself? Bimmerzone has the kit for $77.
Last edited by Scarceas; 09-14-2013 at 07:46 PM.
my car has idled on the highway during the summer in Houston where temps are in the 100s and has been fine, but I did add a spal electric fan just to be on the safe side.
2000 M Coupe, TCK coilovers, BBS RK.
Don't forget to check out the other threads in the fan delete subsection of the manifesto. They likely have the answers to some of your questions.
Yes, there are several threads on this recently. On mine, I removed the fan and clutch, started it up, admired how it no longer sounded like a #&*$ing Datsun 260Z, and closed the hood. That was seven years ago. It's spent it's share of time stuck in summertime beach tourist traffic. It's had a blower added and gets flogged on occasion, between the traffic jams. No issues. None.
/.randy
Originally stock, yes. I removed the fan soon after I got the car in '06 because I couldn't stand that Datsun sound... which in retrospect was probably a failing clutch. Over the years, parts were upgraded as they came up for replacement. The radiator was replaced with an aluminum piece 3-4 years ago. The thermostat was replaced with a 80C maybe two years ago, along with all hoses. This was done more for supercharger heatsoak (didn't help) than actual engine temp. If I change out the radiator fan switch, I'll go will the lower temp, but I'm not going to replace a working switch just cause. 30% antifreeze for this climate. No added chemicals.
/.randy
So just to confirm this kit:
http://www.bimmerzone.com/product/PKG-E36-FAN-DEL.html
With the '9/1995 & beyond' option.
Do I need the water pump nut?
Only if you insist on spending extra money. The nut is cosmetic and the water wetter isn't of any value.
/.randy
The only reason the S52 got an aluminum radiator when it did is because I picked up a scratch-n-dent E36 version VSL for a very good price. Why not? I own a fin comb. This is how I know a E36 radiator won't clear on a Conforti CAI, BTW. My E39 and the Z3 coupe have Zionsvilles. If the VSL ever goes south, and there have been reports of them leaking, the S52 will get a Zionsville.
Last edited by rf900rkw; 09-15-2013 at 09:14 PM.
/.randy
I MEASURED THE THREAD AFTER THE SWITCH ARRIVED. IT'S A M14 X 1.5, The threads match my radiator.
I found the switch set-points for Pelican part no. 61-31-8-376-440 :
Category: Radiator Description: Double temperature switch Quantity Required: 1 Notes: (from March 1997)
For vehicles with air conditioning or automatic air conditioning
80/88 Celcius, 176 F / 190F
Does anyone know if the threads are the same as the OEM temperature switch on my 1998 Z3 2.8L?
Yes
- - - Updated - - -
Average Joe, it's hard to answer your questions because I don't know what you want to do about the thermostat and the fan switch temperature set-points?
You have two choices:
1) Remove the fan, close the hood. Obviously all that is necessary.
2) Remove the fan, install a lower temperature thermostat and radiator outlet coolant aux fan switch. Not necessary.
I went with #2 based on my oil pressure, recommended oil viscosity (10W-40), climate, and using 87 octane E0 fuel.
Last edited by DuWop; 09-16-2013 at 08:50 AM.
I just removed my fan and closed the hood. I will monitor and see if I need a different radiator, or a lower thermostat or an electrical fan. I do live in Minnesota and it is getting cooler outside so I might not make any changes until next summer.
I just received the Bimmerworld E36 fan delete kit that will be used on my 99 M Coupe. No specifc Bimmer instructions included. I can easily wire the relay but what wire off the temperature sender is to be used to trigger the fan? This is the preferred way to wire the kit right? I have searched. I am sure this information is in here somewhere as there are a whole lot of fan delete threads. Most appear to debate the need for the mod itself though. Point me to the right thread if you know of its existence. Thanks in advance.
99 M Coupe
99 996 Cabrio
86 Saleen Griggs Road Race Car
I'm trying to remove my radiator fan and clutch all as one assembly as we speak. This can be removed all as one assembly, right? I think the clutch nut is reverse threaded? Can I get a confirmation on that too? And is there a technique to removing it without the special tool? I am having a hard time keeping the water pump pulley from moving, and it is plastic so I can't just grab it with vise grips (learned this the hard way actually).
Last edited by BenFenner; 11-02-2013 at 05:53 PM.
Take a long screwdriver and place it in between two of the 6 bolts below the big nut. That's how I removed mine from the E30.
Sorry, no pictures to show.
- Y2K M Coupe (Garage Security)
- '98 318Ti M-Sport - BEATER/ Mileage Hog/ AutoX
- '87 944 N/A SILVER - (Project/DD/Cones)
- '08 Land Cruiser 200 (Family Hauler)
- '06 Royal Enfield Bullet 350 w/sidecar (weekend cruiser)
Future
- 88-91 M3 (maybe.. if I can find one, regret selling in 05)
- Richie
Yep, it's left hand thread.
Put your 32mm wrench on the clutch nut, adjust it until you have a clear swing at it, and SMACK it with the biggest hammer you have. Readjust and hit it again. And again. Four or five hits should be enough to break it loose. Spin the fan and clutch off, and it will sneakout past the vanos solenoid, just.
/.randy
Oh, and don't hit anything else.
/.randy
Yah, I was using an adjustable wrench not a proper 32mm and it was only barely longer than the fan blades. Had the mini sledge in hand and was just making sure I swung where I wouldn't hit anything important if I slipped.
Assuming my auxiliary fan is working properly, I should be fine at VIR on Monday sans mechanical fan?
According to the interwebs, we all should be good without a mechanical fan. That's what I read. I'm considering removing mine and adding the 80 deg t-stat with the sensor. But some just remove the mechanical fan and VOILA! Done.. no worries.
- Y2K M Coupe (Garage Security)
- '98 318Ti M-Sport - BEATER/ Mileage Hog/ AutoX
- '87 944 N/A SILVER - (Project/DD/Cones)
- '08 Land Cruiser 200 (Family Hauler)
- '06 Royal Enfield Bullet 350 w/sidecar (weekend cruiser)
Future
- 88-91 M3 (maybe.. if I can find one, regret selling in 05)
- Richie
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