I have a (hopefully) minor issue that I am clueless as to how to identify and thought I would see if anyone else has the same issue.
When I am driving on a particularly bumpy road or over a speed bump, I hear a small rattle at the back similar to some loose plastic on the interior, but I cannot pinpoint the location. I already looked at the suspension mounts and don't see them move while driving and the mount itself doesn't move when I touch it. Just wondering if other people have had a similar issue coming from their z?
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
Two common culprits: Hand brake cable and rear suspension top mounts.
Mangoose I had the same problem and it was driving nuts. Especially having a convertible. It was finally solved one day when I had a buddy of mine drive my car real slow down the road and I ran along side. Turned out to be the little BMW center cap emblem in the middle of the wheel. It kept sloshing back and forth. Got news ones and all is quiet. Point is look for the less obvious...
I forgot to install anti rattle clips when changing rear brake pads, so when not being applied, my pads rattle around in the caliper. May not apply to you, but something you can check anyway.
Also if rattle comes only with open top, it could be handles which are used to close soft top. On my car they rattle a lot if they are in closed position.
How did you attach the new emblems? On my 1997 Z3 the thin metal emblems are glued to the wheels. I don't see how they could slosh and rattle. One fell onto the floor in the garage the other day. I cleaned off the old waxy adhesive and used contact cement to reattach the emblem to the wheel.
The metal emblems are not glued directly to the wheels. Rather each emblem is glued to a plastic cap, that is inserted in the middle of each wheel. The pictures on http://leatherz.com/Merchant5/mercha...ry_Code=all_Z3 should make things clear.
Last edited by dougmcintyre; 08-12-2013 at 07:03 AM.
So far:
Checked center caps - solid, no issues
Checked e-brake cable - well secured
I feel like it is most likely the suspension mounts, but what am I looking for exactly?
As a followup, is it just the mounts I should replace or would it be advisable o upgrade the suspension now?
For only the mounts, would the following be a good choice?: http://www.iemotorsport.com/mm5/merc...Code=z3sckmnts
For full suspension...If I need to do the rear suspension, I would prefer to do both front and rear. I am looking around and there are a lot of options. I would love to do autocross one day, but have no hard plans for it. So for primarily street use, what is a decent suggested kit?
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
Be sure and check the brake pad anti-rattle clips. They're sprung and can become less springy. I have to re-bend the rear clips every once in a while. A quick check is to apply brakes over the bumps and see if the rattle ceases, or just reach in there and see if you can wiggle the brake pads.
Last edited by Zoupe6; 08-12-2013 at 06:19 PM.
Actually just redid the brakes last weekend and that wire is secured. I am fairly certain it is the rear shock mounts (rattle comes from both sides, seems higher up than near the calipers/rotors).
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Update: Here are some pictures of the mounts...I'm almost certain i have found the culprit:
WP_000170.jpgWP_000177.jpg
Last edited by mangoose; 08-12-2013 at 09:49 PM.
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
You redid your brakes........
I'm betting that you broke one of the clips holding the pads in the piston.
Pretty easy to do since the same clips are used for M rear brakes and they have a bigger piston diameter.
Done this with my track car AND since I'm using the Z its happened again !
Test as Zcoup6 suggested ... Fix is easy as changing pads !
Get some water in the top well at some point? Those look like shit. Even if they're not rattling, they're done.
As for suspension, or upgrades, that's a REAL slippery slope. A rattling mount that's $20 can turn to $2-3k+ real quick. Go read through the manifesto suspension section a bit and then see if you have specific questions.
-Todd
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
Did you use OEM pads? Someone put aftermarket pads on mine and they rattled some. Changed them for OEM.pads and all is well.
Fairly certain it isnt a brake issue, the rattle was the same before/after the brakes. After looking at those suspension mounts, I think Ive found the issue.
- - - Updated - - -
Looks like I will be doing suspension in the near future...my wallet is sad, but I'm excited for a new challenge (never done suspension before)
I read thru each of the posts in the manifesto section on suspension, but could use some clarification. It looks like the two routes you can go are coilovers ($$ and performance) or upgraded shocks and springs. Some people are saying coilovers are overkill for street use (this is my daily driver), but if I take it to an autocross event will I really regret not putting down an extra $500-$1000 for a good coilover kit?
Using TCKline as an example, the sporting suspension here:
http://www.tcklineracing.com/webdocs...Details122.cfm
Is about $900 cheaper than the "True Match" kit:
http://www.tcklineracing.com/webdocs...Details150.cfm
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
So I have decided to forego the full suspension upgrade until I have more time to research and identify what I truly want. In the meantime I have ordered reinforced rear shock mounts from Ireland Engineering as well as some clutch pedal bushings to get rid of another annoying squeak...will update after the install.
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
Video with audio of rattle:
I have installed the Ireland Engineering rear shock mounts, and have noticed a marked improvement. There is no play whatsoever, and the noise is almost completely gone. I think the shock itself may be damaged, so I will be looking into full suspension kits soon.
Last edited by mangoose; 08-23-2013 at 02:21 AM.
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
Anti-rattle clips are different from pad retaining clips. The retaining clips are the ones on the back of the piston-side pad (which I think is what you are referring to). The anti-rattle clip is the big piece that clips on the outside of the caliper+pad carrier assembly (which is what Zcoup6 is talking about).
DIY/Project Links:_TC Kline D/A & Suspension Refresh_|_Oil/Engine Cooling Options / Install_|_
Dinan/Fikse FM-5 Build_|_Stereo Install_|_HID Retrofit_|_
I am hoping to do this sometime this week...Ill let you know.
- - - Updated - - -
The new IE mounts came with a paper gasket (just 1). I put that underneath, then the reinforcement plate on top without a gasket.
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Yes, to clarify, I have verified both the clip IN the brake pad and the clip ON the caliper are not the issue. They are secured and do not rattle or move when the shock is compressed or bumped.
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
As promised, update on the clutch pedal bushings install. First off, it is not very hard, and once you can make sense of what is on the pedal, it comes off rather easily. I used this video as a rough guide:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oFud4xKXIk
1. remove driver side kick panels (not sure the technical term, but the piece that touches your knees while driving. Should just be two pieces of plastic held on by 6 screws.)
2. underneath and by the pedals, remove the bracket referenced in the video. use a 10mm socket and just slide it out and shove up next to the brake pedal out of your way.
3. remove the circlip and pin for the clutch master cylinder.
4. at this point the pedal will probably pop out and the spring will come down. thats fine, just dont lose the pivot pieces at the top of the spring when it pops down.
5. remove the circlip at the very top, and slide the pedal off (the video says the pedal slides towards the passenger side, but maybe he has a RH drive car? mine slid to the LH side if you look at the pedal straight on)
6. remove the old bushings from the pedal, put in the new ones (I had to squeeze mine in pretty tightly, I do not think there will be any movement between the bushings and the pedal - only between the bushings and the pin)
7. the guy in the video suggested just propping up the spring and compressing it with your hand on the pedal...I don't know how he managed that, so I just used some zip-ties and a vice to compress the spring a little at a time, and got it snug.
8. Reassemble everything in reverse, and the compressed spring should give you no trouble at all. Once everything is clipped back in, cut the zip ties and put on the kick panels again. ALL DONE!
my bushings were the "oilite bronze" ones from Ireland Engineering. they have barely any side-to-side play, and absolutely NO squeaks (at least from a short drive around...who knows how they perform over the years to come...)
Pics of the new ones installed in the pedal vs the old ones in my hand: WP_000184.jpgWP_000185.jpg
Last edited by mangoose; 08-26-2013 at 11:26 PM. Reason: added pics
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
Thought I would update the thread. The rattle is completely gone, I bought replacement rear shock absorbers from Sensen with a lifetime warranty. Will report back if they turn out to be garbage, but after a quick drive the noise is entirely gone, and the ride is noticeably more stable.
Here are some pics before installation and the top after install: (i reused the large washers and dust shield, so those look old)
WP_000239.jpgWP_000242.jpg
(Sold) 1997 2.8L Z3 Roadster (M52) - Atlanta Blue
2008 X3 M Sport AT (N52) - Black Sapphire
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