It was working yesterday and no real problems except a slight rough idle.
Plenty of battery juice and it turns over well, but does NOT engage??
Has a "new" Cap & Rotor, plugs, new timing belts, adjusted the AFM to
"Factory" Settings of 3/4 of a turn.
Plenty of power and no stall outs prior.
Previous engine over heating problem fixed(Flushed out engine and radiator)
New Thermostat, heating and gauge sensors.
Runs great for about 30-45 days and all of a sudden, no start???
Could it be the COIL, Fuses, air vacuum leak somewhere?
Plenty of fuel, good battery, just cranks over repeatedly.
The infamous Charcoal canister??(Never changed too)
O2 sensor changed, Fuel filter changed.
HELP !!!! Contact me at john.a.carman@gmail.com Thanks!
can you hear if the fuel pump is coming on? are the plugs wet with fuel? the crank sensor might have gone out, which means you wont get spark or fuel.
1991 BMW 325i(Current Daily) (S52)
I have carburetors, and I'm not afraid to use them!
There are always other fish (engines) in the sea (Craigslist)
Life is about enjoying the engine you are sitting behind.
Where is the "Crank Sensor"? I don't remember hearing the "electronic" sound anymore.
I also checked the "Relay" switches in the Fuse box and they all seemed to be okay, but
how can you tell? (4 pronged) 89 325I
the crank sensor is on the front of the engine down next to the crankshaft. if you feel your way around the crank pulley you will feel it pretty easily. if that doesnt see the engine spinning then the computer wont send out fuel or spark to the engine.
1991 BMW 325i(Current Daily) (S52)
I have carburetors, and I'm not afraid to use them!
There are always other fish (engines) in the sea (Craigslist)
Life is about enjoying the engine you are sitting behind.
Sounds like fuel and/or fuel related. As Rudolph suggested, start with the fuel pump and work your way towards the front from there checking everything.
But almost 400K miles on that thing??? Damn!!! Very respectable.
1999 BMW R1100RT
2005 MC C230K Sport
2007 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab Z71
2010 Chevy Tahoe LT2
Well, I guess we'll find out Monday, I had to have the car towed about 3 miles away to a BMW specialist thank God! The other guys I normally used aren't really BMW qualified and only do "basic stuff. I am hoping it's just a relay switch or a Fuse which is cheaper. A fuel pump would break me. I'll get back to you all Monday. Thanks for the advice. Is it me or is it the FULL Moon ???? I'm taking this car to 1 million miles !!!
- - - Updated - - -
BMW inspection results were that it was the Fuel Pump After all.(396,000 Miles) 89'
I noticed that the performance was a little slow" in response form a traffic light
but it worked fine after that. It appears now that the "fuel line" was not performing
or due to the old nature of the "Original" Fuel pump which started to make some
slight "bearing" noises I was unaware of.
So with a BMW qualified mechanic and $518.00 USD later, I should be good to go.
Note: the symptoms were "slight" but I did not have access to a qualified BMW
mechanic and it was intermittent.Hopefully someone else will learn from my experience.
I still need to get some other minor repairs/replacements and I have a small list.The
mechanic also said BMW doesn't make certain types of fuel pumps anymore but that
the Bosch is good over that of a another. Either way, try to keep it German or original.
He also said the Charcoal canister doe snot normally get replaced unless you FAIL SMOG.
About $100.00) Next on my list is probably an AFM box/meter. But so far the original is still
good.
An 89 bmw is about as simple as they come, any mechanic should be able to work on that car.
the top connection is near the intake manifold, and run the wire wherever you want so long as it doesnt touch anything spinning.
1991 BMW 325i(Current Daily) (S52)
I have carburetors, and I'm not afraid to use them!
There are always other fish (engines) in the sea (Craigslist)
Life is about enjoying the engine you are sitting behind.
Spent a couple of hours routing the wire up into original slot. Very tricky; I didn't remove or detach any other parts. Car does run a little higher up in RPM at startup.
Normal folks really can't get this wire replaced like this. The length of the wire does not allow any other way from connection at bottom to top.
The previous CPS at the bottom was very dirty (covered in mud). I know it works by sensing magnetically, but I don't doubt all that gunk degraded its sensing ability. Reminder for all to spray it down once in a while. May keep you from needing to replace a CPS in the first place.
I never replied to this forum after having solved the problem last year. The problem was not the fuel pump itself, but the connection, only after having replaced pump and running into se problem again. The car is 25 years old; the pump wire connection, much like speakers are connected male to female. The pump has two male prongs, round. The wire from car has two female leads. Round prongs and round holes after 25 years gets loose. Flatten female leads & connection should be tight.
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