Member
Originally Posted by legend921
"Yes, seeing several with issues, sorry to hear you are among them.The original 80S was glued at time of install using a silicone
adhesive, so it is a viable solution. I am out of the country until
Fri, will be addressing this when I get back. If you can, wait until I
get back, and will spec a glue. Will be giving folks the option of
return/replace or receiving the glue.
The supplier isn't certain yet what happened, but we suspect a batch
or several units within a batch had the epoxy flash before they were
joined. It shouldn't be a widespread issue, but may affect a decent
number of units. We've seen 3 so far."
'98 RMS stage 2+++++(491whp/390tq VAC cams, CES Cutring-9:1, Built blower, Meth etc)
'09 Saab 9-5 Combi 5mt 1 of 1(Built Motor, Brembos, LSD, the works!)
'22 Cadillac CT4-V BlackWing 6mt
'22 Cadillac CT4 2.0T Sport AWD (wife's)
Hobbyflecke
I've been out of the country since I received my package so I haven't had a chance to actually install it yet. But is there going to be an option to use the glue as a preventive measure? Or rather some set of instructions/image of where the issue is. I am back stateside next week.
Suspension: Bilstein Sports, GC Coilover conversion, IE Subframe Bushings, IE RTABs, M roadster sways, M roadster front control arms, M roadster Front calipers/hubs.
Engine/Driveline: M54B30 intake Manifold, Dinan CAI, ZHP Cams, Headers, Underdrive pulleys, Conforti Software, 3.46 diff.
Arktissibler-Metallic
+1 Haven't assembled mine yet, but thinking I should attempt to pull the top off or reinforce prior to full install?
Hobbyflecke
Any update? I am back in town tonight and would like to get this installed this week. I don't even care about getting the glue, I can get my own locally I am just curious what needs to be addressed to not cause issues post install? Where exactly is the weak point?
Suspension: Bilstein Sports, GC Coilover conversion, IE Subframe Bushings, IE RTABs, M roadster sways, M roadster front control arms, M roadster Front calipers/hubs.
Engine/Driveline: M54B30 intake Manifold, Dinan CAI, ZHP Cams, Headers, Underdrive pulleys, Conforti Software, 3.46 diff.
Member
I would check the joints between the top half and bottom half for the weak point essentially. The way that mine had failed was after everything was completely installed. I was testing out the sub and just listening to it and heard a pop. I thought that it was the sub initially since I lost a lot of bass and volume. I took it apart and checked everything again which showed okay. Once I slide everything back down I felt the back half of the box flex back and forth and that's when I realized that the box is no longer sealed.
- - - Updated - - -
I wouldn't pry anything off at this time as long as your box is together and nothing has separated I would just install it.
Member
image.jpg
Hi Guys!
I hope you can help me out here how-to-do. I have received the sub and it looks very fine :-)
i have seen Mr Bingleys "Oddmentbox / subwoofer enclosure / roll bar removal" thread.
My problem is that my car never was delivered with any sub in the cabin, and my car have TWO "oddment compartments."
In Mr Bingleys instruction he begins with removing the top (his 80s sub) I.e. removing the speaker and then there is access to the bolt/bracket on the inner side of the roll hoop.
My problem is that top of my oddment box stretches and sits under the inner part of the roll hoops and the room hoop bolts on the inner part cannot be accessed from my top mounted oddment box (no holes)
To sum it up: I cannot remove the compartment where the sub is suppose to sit because the top of the compartment extends under the roll hoops. And when the compartment is still in place I cannot reach the inner bolts for the roll hoops!
Any suggestion?
Regards
Poul
Arktissibler-Metallic
Dremel with cutoff disc meant for plastic and saw through the ends? With the cutoff disc, it makes very clean and straight lines.
Member
Ok...... I had hoped for a non-destructive proposal ;-)
i.e. How do I actually take this apart without sawing it to bits!
I'm not fond of the irreversibility of sawing, if for some reason I face new challenges when I have cut up my oddment box.
Any other ideas?
Arktissibler-Metallic
Do the plastic covers to the left and right of your compartment clip into place? can they be lifted up and then you can remove the storage compartment?
- - - Updated - - -
Looks like there is maybe another bolt/screw in the center under the back edge of the door that needs to be removed as well? So remove compartment door from the hinges, then remove that screw?
Last edited by kojohns; 07-20-2014 at 11:09 AM.
Member
Yep, you are kind of right! The compartment door does not release as the brass sockets for the screws just spin :-)
And I can see more screws under the left and right plastic covers.
But anyway cannot remove the left and right plastic covers because of the roll hoop padding.
And I cannot release the roll hoop because I cannot get the storage compartment out!
Somehow there must have been sequence of assembly - that can be reversed ?
Ralph
Let's see some pictures of what you've got. I looked at RealOEM, and couldn't find a roll bar model that didn't have the standard box lid and separate covers where the bars go through, but one thing I am sure of is that you don't have to saw into it to get it apart.
Arktissibler-Metallic
Let me put some context to the dremel / cut comment... It's obvious that the tray goes under the caps that surround the roll hoops... I wouldn't be surprised if that is also somehow supporting the caps in your car. If that's the case, then you will need to create a new support for the cap, or dremel/cut it to leave the support under the cap. You're adapting your car to a subwoofer that wasn't meant for your specific configuration... It may or may not require some additional creativity.
Member
Looking at the above drawing that Mr Bingley have posted from RealOEM, my assembly looks just like the one on the left side. I have test-mounted the brackets onto the sub case in order to measure where the inner roll hoop bolt is positioned - how deep from the top and how far back from the front. Then I'll have to drill a hole in each side of my oddment box in order to remove the last roll hoop screw. When the roll hoops are removed it should possible to get the process onwards....
Update to follow when time permits :-)
Last edited by Pov005; 07-21-2014 at 03:52 PM.
Arktissibler-Metallic
Before drilling... In the assembly shown... does item #19 snap / clip into place? Can it be lifted up the roll hoop exposing the ability to completely remove the large oddments box in the middle?
Member
No, pos 19 cannot be lifted more than 1/4 in. The fat padding of the roll hoop makes it impossible.
But as far as I can see under pos 19 it looks just like on Mr Bingleys how-to-do.
I wonder why BMW have constructed this small oddment box so awkward !
Arktissibler-Metallic
You may have already found this, but here's what's under those caps... there has to be a way to release the roll hoops without drilling holes. Can you remove the front/small oddment box and go that way?
Last edited by kojohns; 07-21-2014 at 05:22 PM.
Ralph
If it looks like the picture on the left in the RealOEM exploded view, then your lid pops off independently of the two side covers (piece No. 19 in the diagram). Once the lid is off, then you can proceed as in my thread. With the lid removed it should look like this:
Member
Inside the oddment box is a couple of tabs(red arrow) you remove, to get to the 2bolts(green arrow) for the roll hoops, on the out side there is another tab with one bolt to remove the roll hoops. and yes they will have to be removed for you to get any access to that box compartment. Tabs slide upwards!
rollbar-bolt.jpg
And there is about 200little screws to get that innabox out of the oddment compartment.
Last edited by lennium; 07-21-2014 at 10:55 PM.
ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐl ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ
Member
image.jpg
Ha! In a different light I noticed the small covers for the inner roll hoop bolts! They are very flush and hard to see, and they were very difficult to pry out.
image.jpg
Here is the hole where the oddment box use to sit. As you can see I'll have to chop off the hinges for the oddment box lid. The bracket holding the hinges also supports the plastic covers #19.
I'll probably have to chop the oddment box extensions I.e. The parts that sits under cover #19 in order getting these parts to mount correctly. In addition to that I'll have to dismount the small front (lower) storage box - the sub leaves no space for this! So I still have some way to go.
Arktissibler-Metallic
I can't tell from the pictures, but do your roll hoop mounts have pre-drilled/tapped holes for the subwoofer mounting brackets and bolts?
Member
Wow, I used to think that what we Coupe owners go through to deal with RSM's was a pain in the ass, but I stand corrected; the subwoofer in a Roadster is worse!
Marty
Member
image.jpg
So I had to remove the whole inside of the oddment box. Cut, saw and trim!
The roll hoops are the same as yours, and the 3 small holes for sub-brackets are there too.
image.jpg
Originally my car had both the small compartment and the larger one where now the sub sits.
Unfortunately there is not enough space for the small compartment either :-(
I would appreciate if any of you guys could suggest any fix to this. I have tried to find search RealOEM but I can't get this page to work......there must be some kind of a blind plate that can be mounted instead of the small compartment
As you can see, my old car has the small rear speakers, only 3".
Anyway, I mounted a Xzound SDX-290 to drive the sub, more power than the unit can handle and louder than I care!
A good improvement to the stereo sound in my little Z.
Member
Can you cut the small oddbox to make a cover?
ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐl ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ
Member
This is my solution I cut the front off the small oddments compartment covered it in leather and permanently fixed it from behind
Member
That will be a bit tricky. The small compartment lid is not big enough to cover the hole. Above the small lid sit a bar with the two compartment release buttons. - And they will be both unwanted as well as very hard to fit in. There is not much space left after sub is in place.
Managed to search RealOEM from a PC : found a section with the HK subwoofer assy, here is a part "18" - looks like a grating for the HK speaker, but size looks to be OK. Price 65 USD !!!
Any inputs to if this grating will do the trick ?
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