Its also illegal in some states to idle your car unless you're an emergency vehicle. Start your car, find a station, fasten your belt, drop the e-brake (For those w/ 3 pedals ) and GO! GO! GO! Car's are in no way near as fragile as many people think. Unless you're talking about the BMW's cooling systems... then you'd be valid.Originally Posted by California Energy Center
http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/myths/idling.html
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...n-cold-weather
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...m-up-their-car
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-cold-mornings
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...iver-ers/page2
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/arc.../t-154868.html
Last edited by Only1Balto; 04-07-2013 at 05:12 AM.
Whenever I cold start any of my bimmers they idle a bit high until the secondary air pump turns off. It's normal.
I always wait for the idle to come down before driving.
Last edited by 013137; 04-07-2013 at 05:21 AM.
My '99 540i/6 idles at around 500rpm even on cold mornings. I put my belt on, turn on the radio, and go. And yes, the manual does recommend against letting the car idle to warm up. As stated the manual transmission is a little grumpy at first but it warms up and settles down pretty quickly.
On a cold start cold morning (35-ish) my car idles around 1000 rpm for about 30 seconds. After that it settles at 750 or so. Any lower and it feels rough. I wait about 15 seconds and then drive off.
I usually start driving within 10 sec. Take it easy until the temp needle is in the middle.
2000 Dinan S1 //M5 (my DD) --------------- 06 DINAN E53 4.8iS (wife's) -------------- 90 Straman Z32TT (my pride & joy)
Gone, but not forgotten: 01 E39 M5, 01 E53 3.0i, 01 525i Sport, 03 DINAN 540i MSport and 91 Z32 TwinTurbo
I push in the clutch then go through the gears once or twice. Slowly and smoothly takes maybe 10 seconds. It may be my imagination but it seems to make getting into second when cold a bit easier.
2001 330Cic/A in the same color combo is "Her" ride.
With the reality of modern engine design and high lubricant oils, such as typical multi/weight synthetic oils, there is little justified need for long warmups, and, as has been posted by others is NOT recommended for best engine longevity. The only possible exception is for those climates that would be labeled 'extremely cold' where even low viscosity oils take a bit of time to circulate. 99% of us are NOT in such climates. Still, until my engine temp approaches mid range, I do not generate a high rev condition if possible.
larrym3711
2001 540iA Sport
If your car's production date is prior to 9/1998, you don't have a secondary air system. It sounds like the higher idle at start up is caused by the SAP. I was confused by the OP's question because of his mention of the idle settling. Otherwise, I would've just answered about the manual stating NOT to warm up the car before driving. Another reason NOT to warm up the car before driving is you want the transmission/drive train to warm up with the engine. Driving immediately after start up does this.
It's not been particularly cold since I bought my 530i (maybe high 30's in the AM) but I haven't noticed the I6 kicking up or down on cold start. Car seems to idle fine. I maybe run it a minute then go. I do baby the thing until the coolant reads up to temp and the diff and transmission etc have had time to warm up too...
For that push off the cliff, this one GOES211...
As others have already stated...instructions on how to start your engine is written in the....owners manual...
And as far as those of us that live where really cold ambient temps can occur...BMW designed an "engine warm up cycle" that also helps warm up the catalysts and the tranny...
Last edited by Qsilver7; 04-07-2013 at 01:29 PM.
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2015 650ix GC (Moonstone/Cohiba Brown) <<~>> 2014 X5 50i (Space Gray/Mocha)
Yeah i've done this with the assumption that my car will live longer if I let it idle, AND as a bonus I leave in a nice and toasty interior. Not doing that anymore.
For statistics, mine is a 2001 I6 so I guess I do have the SAS, and the needle sits at 900 for about 35-45 sec before dropping down to 500 at startup.
I have been idling mine every week 10-15 min. and longer for more than 11 years, nothing happened.
2018 Genesis G80 Sport 3.3T AWD Havana Red
2015 Hyundai Genesis 5.0 V8 (sold)
2013 Hyundai Genesis 5.0 V8 R-Spec (sold)
1999 540i/6 (sold)
It's unlikely to cause any significant wear AND it is far better than quickly driving off cold. BMW's recommendations are based off an assumed 150k mile service life and driving off easily. I'm really beyond the point of carrying about longevity - I have 207k miles and counting on the 540. It starts up with no smoke and runs pretty well, but I don't see the chassis lasting too much longer. That and I'll be looking at a new car soon enough.
yup
Get ready for work.
Exactly!
2018 Genesis G80 Sport 3.3T AWD Havana Red
2015 Hyundai Genesis 5.0 V8 (sold)
2013 Hyundai Genesis 5.0 V8 R-Spec (sold)
1999 540i/6 (sold)
Yeah, I eat my breakfast in the meantime.
Sent from my dragon using BF.com
If its really cold, I give it a few minutes. RPM's aren't good for engines when cold. If its warmer then I'll start it up and get everything done (plug in phone, seatbelt...etc) and once it hits idle rpm's then I go. I never go above 2500-3000rpm until the engine has been at full operating temperature for 20-30 minutes.
I'm in a garage, so I pretty much go after 2-3 seconds.
I don't rev it past 2500 until it's warmed up, if ever.
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Another trend I'm seeing is that those of you who are in a garage don't even see a difference in rpms between startup and 40 second later. Mine is never in a garage so I can't relate or even experiment with it.
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