Torque and sealing BBS 3 piece wheels

[Badgas]

I know I recently read a thread about torquing BBS 3 piece wheels, but a search tonight came up with zilch.

I recall the torque being converted to 19 lb/ft.

One search I found resulted in the following:
Now 40 lb/ft seems high to .
Sealing is another matter. I actually like the idea if torquing the wheel together dry and laying down a bead after.
Experts and those with experience welcome.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/arch...?t-118879.html

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Bolt Pattern & Bolts:
Both the BBS RSs and the RMs have 30 bolts per wheel, and they are the same bolt pattern. 17s should have 35 bolt holes. Torque bolts in a crossing star pattern, just like you would do with lug bolts.

BBS RM bolt torque is 12-15 lb/ft
BBS RS bolt torque is 40 lb/ft
NOTE: Some people have reported that when re-using old wheel bolts that they have experienced breakage to the bolt at 40 lb/ft torque specs. This number was provided by BBS for new and unstretched OEM bolts. Some individuals have suggested that 18 lb/ft is a more reasonable torque setting when re-using old bolts on BBS 3-piece wheels. Use these numbers at YOUR OWN RISK.


Disassembly and Assembly information:
Taking apart your wheels is a piece of cake. It only requires common sense and a little patience. Kodiak suggests to it's racing customers that they take apart and inspect there wheels every year. [This is probably not needed on a street tire.] We have yet to have anyone that hasn't been able to do it on their own. It is important to make sure that the parts are clean when they are reassembled.

Use a 12pt 8mm socket on the bolts and heat the lips up with a heat gun for 5-10 minutes before going at them with a rubber mallet. It should take no longer than 2 hours to have them all apart.

Use a decent 3/8 drive torque wrench and use a crossover method for tighening. After you torque the wheels put a bead of silicone adheasive over the seal on smooth it out. If you are really worried about leaking just put a very thin coat on one day and follow it up with a second coat 24 hours later.


Sealing Wheel Shells:
1. Clean the mating surfaces with laquer thinner and let dry.
2. Bolt the two shells together "DRY" and torque to spec.
3. Lay thin bead of silicone in the crack between the mating surfaces and smooth. Let it dry overnight.
4. Re-apply a bead over the first and smooth out to about a 1.0" bead width and smooth.

If you follow this procedure your wheels will never leak. The reason you don't want silicone between the halves is because all silicone shrinks as it cures. As is shrinks the pressure between the shells changes and your torque changes. BBS use a different system. I wouldnt worry about how the silicone looks. Once you put a tire on you cant see it anyway. The last thing to want is to be driving down the road and get a flat because you didnt use enough sealant. Kodiak suggests to all of their customers that they recheck the torque after you run the wheels for the first time. Just make a few turns each way and quickly recheck (just check don't tighten more).

One recommended product for sealing wheel halves is called Toyota Seal 10* (can't remember the last number) also known as FIPG or as it sounds "Fipige." It is only available at the dealer, 3 oz. cost near 15 dollars, no silicone in it, I believe, but it will seal almost unsealable things. Generally, and good quality RTV silicone sealant will work perfectly, though. Dow Corning 832 Multi Surface Adhesive Sealant was also recommended. Kinesis Motorsports also recommends a sealant called, Shin-Etsu Silicone (1 Component RTV). This is available from Kinesis Motorsports directly.q

[master6]

Jim,

Here is a link for rim bolts torque settings.

http://www.edition38.com/forums/inde...owtopic=127763

I have seen pictures/videos, from a guy, showing step by step, how to take apart 3 pc and put together.

Try you-tube, or bing search. Our forums don't have the best search features.

EDIT: you-tube this guy has multiple videos. [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXqWTXvsWJ8[/ame]

Another guy placed each one rims into his kitchen oven, heated it up to help loosen the sealant.
Here is the link for the kitchen oven method, Max I found this for you, LOL!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4173528

There are a few places that sell parts for 3 piece wheels.
Try Tunershop for sealant. http://www.tunershop.com/Wheel_accessories/Rim_Screws/

[maxg765]

Jim,

Here is a link for rim bolts torque settings.

http://www.edition38.com/forums/inde...owtopic=127763

I have seen pictures/videos, from a guy, showing step by step, how to take apart 3 pc and put together.

Try you-tube, or bing search. Our forums don't have the best search features.

EDIT: you-tube this guy has multiple videos. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXqWTXvsWJ8

Another guy placed each one rims into his kitchen oven, heated it up to help loosen the silicone.

Kitchen oven! If not single I am sure significant other was not home.

Max

[Badgas]

I have a wheel apart polished and refinished. Need to put it back together now. Hence the thread. Thanks for the tips.

[Bert Poliakoff]

19#s is the number. I don't know where the BBS specs came from as if you call them they will not give them out. I used a beam torque wrench when I took mine apart and got an 18-19# reading so i went with 19#s. Also verified with a high end wheel shop here in Phoenix. Also you can google torque specs which really have to do with bolt size. Of course they snapped at 40#s as that is double what is correct.

[FernandoBunster]

Get in touch with Wokke on this board, he's the BBS wheel pro. That's his business and he's always been very helpful.

http://www.wokke.de/